Ebi Yaki "Æbiskiever" エビ焼 "エビスキーバー"

As we suggested in the previous post of "Takoyaki" たこ焼き, we made "Ebiyaki" エビ焼き. Since we made this in our Æbelskiever cooker, I name this "Æbiskiever" エビスキーバー.  We had this for lunch one weekend.

From the outside, they look the same as takoyaki. This time I used bonito flakes as garnish with aonori 青海苔 and my takoyaki sauce たこ焼きソース.



Once you cut into it, however, instead of octopus, you’ll find shrimp.



I used shell-on raw frozen shrimp, thawed under running cold water, shelled, cut into chunks, and salted (below).



After some discussion with my wife,  I decided to omit "Tenkasu" 天かすsince our store-bought variety does not add any flavor (this must be related to the kind of tenkatsu you use) and once cooked in the batter, no texture remained in the takoyaki.  So, I used chopped scallion and the shrimp but nothing else in our Æbiskiever.

I prepared the batter as before but I used powdered skim milk as the original recipe suggested. I let it rest over night in the refrigerator. For the first batch this time, I did not do as well as my first try. After my wife took over for the second batch, we learned that you have to be extremely patient (which I knew and I was when I made takoyake, but in general is not my forte) until the crust is fully formed before trying to turn them over. The sauce was made as before; a mixture of Lee and Perrin worcestershire sauce, ketchup and honey. I made the sauce slightly sweeter than before.

I am sure a traditionalist "Takoyaki" connoisseur will cringe at our innovation but we really liked this Ebiyaki "Æbiskiever". Watch out, more variations to come!

Kimchi Poke キムチポケ

This is my desperate attempt at making something from the frozen block of yellowfin tuna I keep in the freezer for when I need an emergency sashimi/sushi fix. Recently the weather has been extremely cold and snowy so we were not able to get anything good for our usual celebration of the weekend. We had a little bit of salmon roe and boiled octopus leg. I thawed the block of yellowfin tuna to round out the plate. I made half into "zuke" and half into this starter. For a change I served the tuna as is (two slices) and also as poke with store bought kimchi.



Again, breaking our routine, we went for hot sake which was just more comforting in this frigid weather. We were getting low on Gekkeikan Black and Gold since we have been consuming hot sake much more often than before this winter.

One of the reasons I made this dish using kimchi is that I happened to learn that my wife has never eaten kimchi. Although kimchi is the national dish of Korea, it is very popular in Japan as well. My mother used to make a Japanese-style; much milder kimchi (Japanese used to call it Korean pickles or chousen-zuke  朝鮮ずけ. Now it is simply called kimchi). I  bought commercial kimchi in a jar for my wife to taste. I chose "mild" since it is easy to make it hot by adding a hot sauce but it is not easy to make it mild. Since it is still fermenting, the lid of the jar was bulging (My wife immediately concluded the contents must have gone bad. She had been drilled since childhood that a bulging can is a dangerous can and in the words of her mother “When in doubt throw it out”). Then she saw the disclaimer on the lid to the effect that if it was bulging that was OK. That is how it is with foods like kimchi and (even worse) Surströmming,...since in a sense the food inside is still rotting/fermenting. (For the record, I have never come near this Swedish delicacy, let alone tasted it. I am more than willing to defer to the description by others concerning the smell and taste of this product).

Obviously this is not based on a recipe. I diced the tuna into small cubes.  I chopped up the kimchi and mixed it in. I also added finely chopped scallion and seasoned it with sesame oil and soy sauce.

Kimchi is sour, garlicky and spicy (this one was mild) which added some to this otherwise poor tuna. This is nothing I can boast about but for the purpose of  consuming warm sake, it did its job.

Fried cubes of polenta and cheese curd サイコロポレンタと自家製チーズカード

This was my wife's idea and she made both the polenta and cheese curd. We had it as a starter dish one evening with a glass of cab.



Once they are fried, it is difficult to tell which ones are cheese curd and which ones are polenta. I served them with baby arugula and slices of skinned tomato seasoned with Kosher salt and splash of olive oil.



My wife also cooked the cubes of polenta and cheese curd after dredging  in flour and fried them in peanut oil.



After the crunchy crust was set, she drained them on a paper towel.



Both the polenta and cheese had their own distinctive textures and flavors but both types of cubes had a nice crunch crust outside and soft inside . This is a good starter (sort of salad with croutons).

Duck breast with cherry port wine sauce 合鴨のムネ肉のチェリーポートワインソース添え

I have done posts about duck breast dishes several times (mostly made in the Japanese style). Recently, even in our regular supermarket, duck breast and legs are often available and I bought one. This time, I decide to serve it with cherry port wine sauce. We served this with seasoned rice (with Italian herbs and pine nuts, came in a box) and baked blackened Brussels sprouts.



I made a quick cherry port wine sauce and poured it over the duck meat.



I cooked the duck breast as per usual. I first removed the excess skin and fat from the edges and scored the skin in a criss-cross fashion (to the depth of the fat layer). I then seasoned it with salt and black pepper on both sides. I placed it in the refrigerator for several hours without covering to make the skin dry out a bit (due to circumstances beyond my control it ended up drying in the fridge overnight). I placed the duck breast skin side down in a cold frying pan on medium flame. As the fat started rendering, I removed the excess by either pouring it into a small ramekin or mopping it up in the pan with a tongs held paper towel. After 10 minutes quite a large amount of duck fat rendered and the skin became crisp and brown (below). I flipped the duck and browned the other side for 5 minutes and then placed it in a 400F oven for 6 minutes. I let it rest for 10 minutes before slicing.



Nice rosy color of medium-rare.


For the cherry port wine sauce, I left about a teaspoon of duck fat in the pan and sautéed shallots (one finely chopped) for several minutes and deglazed the pan with port wine (about 1/4 cup, I used an American port I keep for cooking). After scraping off any brown bits, I added cherries (about 20, frozen, pitted) I reduced it until the sauce just coated the bottom of the pan and finished with pats of butter. I adjusted the seasoning by adding salt and pepper (below).

Compared to chicken breast, duck breast are supposedly safe to consume undercooked due to the processing (ducks are done on a much smaller scale). This was nice with or without the sauce.

Tako Yaki たこ焼き

Growing up in Sapporo 札幌, Hokkaido, takoyaki たこ焼き was not an item I encountered often. So-called "Konamon" こなもん food cultures are an Oosaka 大阪 (Kansai 関西) tradition which may include takoyaki,  okonomiyaki お好み焼き as well as noodles (especially udon). "Kona" 粉 means flour and anything made from flour may qualify as "konamon" but the exact definition escapes me.

One of the  reasons I made takoyaki was because this gave me another post but also because of my sister-in-law gave me an electric ebelskiver cooker as a Christmas present. After several of the cookers were delivered by Federal Express Ground to random locations other than our house it finally arrived last week—only 2 months late for the Christmas holiday. When I saw the cooker all I could think was Takoyaki. The size of the cooking wells and resulting product were larger than traditional Takoyaki but my wife said, “just call it American style takoyaki.

I made a takoyaki sauce and garnished with bonito flake powder and "aonori" 青海苔. For the first try, this was good with a crunchy outside and molten soft inside centered with a piece of boiled octopus leg.

 

Since this is not a type of food I grew up with, I looked for an authentic recipe for takoyaki. After looking through various recipes, I settled for the recipe which was written in Osaka dialect (a true sign of its authenticity).

Ingredients:

Takoyaki sauce:  A mixture of Lee and Perrin worcestershire sauce, ketchup, and honey. The ratio of the Worcestershire sauce and ketchup is about 1:2 and honey to your liking of sweetness. The authentic sauce is supposedly rather sweet. Among the pre-made commercial sauce, Otafuku brand takoyaki sauce おたふくたこ焼きソース is most popular. (left, upper).
Boiled octopus leg: I just cut into 1/2 inch or 1cm chunks (I made 12) (right lower).
Scallion: Finely chopped about 4 stalks (left lower) (1 tsp per ball).
Tenkasu*:  See picture and write up below. (1/2 to 1 tsp per ball).

In terms of the garnish,  I prepared dried "aonori" (upper right) and dried bonito powder (middle right, I made bonito powder by grinding the bonito flakes in a Japanese mortar and pestol (suribachi すり鉢) but this is not necessary (use as is).

I did not use additional items such as red pickled ginger (紅生姜) or small dried shrimp (桜エビ). According to this recipe, adding shredded cabbage is totally not authentic. If used, it should be called "Okonomiyaki" ball rather than takoyaki.



*Tenkasu: One more ingredient I needed was "tenkasu" 天かす or "agedama" 揚げ玉 a by-product of making tempura. They are the small fried tempura bits of batter that come off the main tempura while it is being cooked. They are quickly removed from the oil before they burn. Besides being used in making takoyaki and okonomi-yaki, they can be used as a topping for noodles (such as in "Tanuki" udon or soba), miso soup and other dishes.
Interestingly, in Hokkaido they are more commonly called "agedama" or "fried balls".  This is a term I prefer to Tenkatsu which literally means "wastage or scum" of tempura and does not sound particularly appetizing to me. They used to be discarded or given away free at tempura or soba restaurants but more recently, packaged commercial products can be had (some even flavored by ground up dried shrimp). I could have made this myself but for takoyaki, I bought pre-made one, as seen on the left, at my Japanese grocery store.

The advert on the package boasts of supposed health aspects of this otherwise unhealthy product. The package indicated it was healthy because it was fried in Canola oil and 0% cholesterol (same in any other vegetable oil). Maybe this is better than if they were fried in tallow but the distinction seems slim to me. I see similar amusing claims on potato chip packages touting how healthy they are. In any case, surprisingly they were not oily and had no smell or taste of oxidized oil but, by the same token, they had no flavor whatsoever, only texture. We were not sure this added anything special to our takoyaki (I added about 1 tsp per ball).

Batter: The batter is most important. I like this recipe since it was proportional based on the numbers of eggs used. The important things seem to be; 1. Use a good quality cake flour,  2. Liquid and flour ratio is 1:4 to 1:4.5 (some recipes call for 1:5 ratio), 3. Use of powdered skim milk and baking powder (They are recent additions and improve the quality of takoyaki according to this author. He referred to these additions as "progress").  I really liked this approach so I translated his chart below.

Numbers of takoyaki	Cake flour	Powdered milk	Baking powder	Sugar	Salt	Soy sauce	Dashi broth	Eggs
20 (12*)	70g	1 tbs	1/2 tsp	1 tsp	1/4 tsp	1 tsp	300cc	１
40	140g	2tbs	1 tsp	2 tsp	1/2 tsp	2 tsp	600cc	2
60	210g	3tbs	1.5 tsp	3tsp	3/4tsp	3 tsp	900cc	3

*12 using my ebleskiver maker.

I made the smallest amount (i.e. using one egg). This amount should make 20 takoyaki but with my American style takoyaki/ebleskiver cooker, I could make only 12 since the diameter of the wells are 5.5cm as opposed to either 3.5 or 4.2 cm of authentic takoyaki grills. I think the size difference is not a problem, at least for us. I used about 10cc of 1% milk since I did not have powdered skim milk and reduced the dashi by that amount. The dashi was made with kelp and bonito flakes as usual. I did not sift the flour (which is recommended) but added the cold liquid into the dry ingredients gradually as I whisked. It made a rather thin batter. I let it refrigerate for several hours before using.

Assembly: This is where the fun starts. I preheated my ebleskiver maker on "High" setting for several minutes. Using vegetable oil and paper towel, I oiled the wells and the top surface (this has Teflon coating). I poured the batter (after mixing it again) to 90% of the well (se below)



After few minutes the edges started bubbling and I added the octopus leg (below).



I then added the scallion (about 1 tsp) and the tenkatsu (1 tsp) and topped it off with more batter (see below).



Using the bamboo skewer and the special sticks came with the ebleskiver maker,  I tested if the bottom was set and started turning them over (below).



I turned them over few more times to make all the surface equally brown (see below).



The center should be still molten (as I was told) so I declared these  done.



I brushed a small amount of my takoyaki sauce (mine is not as sweet as real Osaka style but I thought it was good. My wife said the sauce made the dish.) I then sprinkled on a pinch of the bonito powder and aonori powder (the first picture).

The center was very hot and molten. My wife thought that, instead of octopus leg, we could use shrimp (which I agree but then it will not be called takoyaki—maybe ebiyaki?). Another natural variation would be the addition of cheeses. Since I made "authentic" takoyaki, I may experiment with more variations (of course, I may consider making ebleskiver as well). We made total of 12 (9 in the first batch and three more). Between two of us, we finished all 12 in no time.

Wonton Skin ravioli ワンタンの皮のラビオリ

When my wife made cheese pockets, some extra cheese stuffing* was left over. I decided to use the cheese stuffing to make ravioli. Although I have a pasta machine (a hand cranked one), I wasn’t up for making homemade pasta so, instead, I used wonton skins. I also had left over marinara sauce from my pizza margarita that I made the weekend before.  I added light cream to the sauce put it over the ravioli and served it with green beans (steamed and then sautéed in butter).

Since I had leftover sautéed chicken breast**, I also served that to make complete meal.

*Cheese stuffing: This is a mixture of cheeses;
7 1/2 oz Ricotta cheese
1 egg (She used a fork to beat the egg and used approximately 1/2 in the cheese mixture and the rest as an egg wash to seal the pie dough. you could use the yolk in the cheese mixture and the white for the egg wash.)
1/4 cup Parmesan cheese
1/2 cup Feta cheese
1/4 cup smoked mozzarella cheese
One small onion finely diced and caramelized
1/8 cup parsley finely chopped
1/4 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp red pepper flakes

**Sautéed chicken breast: I used the technique I learned from the recipe blog site, in which I sliced chicken breast across the grain of the meat, pounded it with a meat pounder. I then massage the meat in sake and potato starch and let it marinate for at least several hours. Just before cooking, I seasoned it (I used dried oregano, basil, salt and pepper) and cooked it in a frying pan with a bit of olive oil. The starch and sake mixture appears to hold moisture in the meat so it came out very moist.

I did not take pictures of the process of making the ravioli using the wonton skins. I just placed a wonton skin on the cutting board and put on a small spoonful of the cheese stuffing. I painted the wonton skin around the stuffing with egg white, and layered the second wonton skin over it. Trying not to make any air pockets, I pressed it all around the stuffing to make sure the two wonton skins adhered together. Using an appropriate size round biscuit or cookie cutter, I cut out the the ravioli. Just to make it more visually appealing, I used the tines of a fork to make indentations around the edge (also to make sure the edges would not separate). I cooked the ravioli in boiling salted water with olive oil added for a few minutes. I removed the ravioli using a slotted spoon and put them on a plate coated with a small amount of olive oil to prevent them from sticking together. After they cooled down, I put them in a sealable container in the refrigerator (below).

I served this one weekday after coming home from work. I heated up the marinara sauce in a frying pan (below).


When the sauce was warm, I added light cream to make a saucy consistency and warmed up the ravioli in the sauce.
Wanton skins don’t not have the same consistency as pasta but they work fairly well as a substitute. The cheese filling also works well especially since this is leftover from another dish. Adding cream to the marinara sauce reduced the acidity and added a richer smoother taste.

We happened to have a very reasonably priced Super Tuscan red called “Brancaia 2011 Tre”. To us this is a bit too austere but it got better as it aerated. Not bad especially considering the price (significantly less than $20).
Decanter gave 95 and James Suckling 93 which appeared too high a score to us. Regardless,  it went very well this instant ravioli dish. This wine is also great with pizza.

Valentine’s day dinner バレンタインデーディナー

For Valentine's day, we did not go out for dinner but instead, baked live lobsters stuffed with crab meat in Bechamel sauce. The live lobsters were from Lobsters New England as before.

We started with sparkling wine from Domain Chandon Vintage brute (2007). This is rather assertive California sparkling wine with crisp acidity with apple and melon notes.  I even garnished the sparkling wine with strawberries.

I prepared the lobsters exactly the same way as I did before. I quickly dispatched them by cutting the head segments in half.  Since the lobsters were rather small (1 1/4 lb), instead of halving the tail, I removed the tail as one piece and removed the shell from the underside and loosen the meat. I removed the claws and cleaned the head segments leaving the tomalley. I adjusted the baking time a bit from the last time (at 400F, I started with the claws and baked them for 8 minutes before addling the tails and halved head segments and baked them for 5 minutes. I them stuffed the head segments and coated the tail meat with a mixture of crab meat in Bechamel sauce. I then covered the lobster with a mixture of panko bread crumbs, olive oil, chopped fresh tarragon, and grated parmesan cheese.* I baked for an additional 10 minutes.

* Since I shortened the baking time after I put on the panko mixture, I pre-browned the bread crumbs in a frying pan before addling to the lobsters.

While we were waiting for the lobsters to cook, I served the remaining big eye tuna we got with the live lobsters. As I described, this tuna was not perfectly fresh and I did a "Yubiki" treatment and made "zuke" and "poke" the day before. This time, I just served the tuna as straightforward sashimi. I served it with daikon namasu on the bed of baby arugula and also made a small side dish of fresh okra




Although I knew my wife does not like okra, this okra was one of the best and most unblemished okra I have seen in our regular grocery store for some time. So I couldn’t help it. It bought it. After I scrubbed the surface with salt, I washed it and parboiled it for 30 seconds and then plunged it into ice water. I removed the stem end and chopped it finely. I mixed it with dry bonito flakes (kezuri bushi 削り節 or katuso bushi 鰹節) and seasoned it with soy sauce. I garnished it with thin rounds of okra.



I thought the addition of dried bonito flakes helped to cut the sliminess of the okra but my wife did not particularly think that was the case and suggested the addition of strong vinegar. Oh well, I tried.

For comparison, the below is the same tuna but after marinating in soy sauce/sake/mirin mixture in the style of "zuke" which we had the night before.

Once, the Yubiki process was added, the tuna was quite good in zuke or sashimi.

After the sashimi, we enjoyed the crab meat stuffed lobsters. Of course, I made lobster bisque next day (I even bought two previously frozen lobster tails and steamed them for the bisque).