Monday, June 30, 2025

Tokyo Kyobashi Areas Izakayas (part 4) 東京の居酒屋 東京駅八重洲京橋付近 パート4

7. Wasabi Tokyo Station Yaesu Branch 和菜美東京駅八重洲店 

東京都中央区八重洲1-7-17 八重洲ロータリービルB1

Yaesu Rotary Bldg. B1
Yaesu 1-7-17, Chuo-ku
Tokyo

For reservation: 03-4405-1480, Credit card accepted, smoking allowed

This is another large chain izakaya. Later we learned that the holding company is called NBM which also runs several other chains. I called for a reservation one day ahead. This is a bit like  ”The restaurant with many orders/conditions 注文の多い料理屋” by Kenji Miyazawa 宮沢賢治. When I called, a man answered. I asked a table for two, date and time.  He said “A table is available” and “Are you taking a course menu?”. I said “No”. He sounded disappointed and said, “You have a table for 2 hours and minimum orders of one drink and two dishes per customer are required”. I said “okay” and thus we got a table for two for two hours.

The place was located in the basement floor of a building just across from Yaesu-guchi 八重洲口 of Tokyo station. Going down the steps triggered a chime and a man appeared. He ushered us to a small table. Although this place advertised “all private rooms”, this was a table with an opaque fabric partition on one side through which we can sort of see the next table/room. The other side was a Japanese style sliding door which was very close to the table. We got to the table by opening the sliding door. The guy repeated the conditions with which we could have our table for 2 hours. We ordered sake and several dishes (see below) immediately fulfilling their strict conditions we agreed on.

As we were  waiting for our orders to come, a large group of people came into the room/table across the aisle. The same server was taking care of this party. In a very loud voice (shout), he started outlining the precise conditions and rules for the “all-you-can-drink” deal. This was indeed “the restaurant with many conditions”.

Shortly, our orders started arriving. The assorted sashimi (#1) was decent but again the “Tai” perch was on the chewy side. One interesting item was fried fava beans (#2). Boiled or grilled (in pods) fava beans are common but fried was new to us. They were very good. We also ordered “crab cream croquets カニクリームコロッケ” which were excellent. Finally we had a dish of  “branded” chicken thigh (a special brand of chicken unique to the regional area) with french fries”. The french fries were clearly previously frozen and the chicken did not taste any different from any other chicken we have eaten but over all it was good.



We ordered more sake and some more dishes. Despite our initial misgivings, we had a good time here. Later we learned they have a store even in Sapporo (the last destination of our Japan trip). But we learned this only after we got back from Japan.

8. Fukube ふくべ*


東京都中央区八重洲1−4−5

Yaesu 1-4-5, Chuo-Ku, Tokyo

For reservation 03-3271-6065, credit card not accepted, smoking allowed

Without realizing it, we stumbled into a genuine Izakaya of Showa 昭和** era. This izakaya was first opened 75 years ago with a period of closure due to the world war II and reopened 60 years ago. I made the obligatory reservation the same day. The first floor was small with only a L-shaped counter. One wall in front of  the counter had tall shelves with many large bottles of sake on display. Although the counter was all crowded with “salary” men, we sat at the very end of the counter (thanks to the reservation). The stools were very closely placed (cozy).  There is a second floor which appears to be for larger parties but some people who came in after us were sent upstairs.

There was a stack of two sake barrels in front of us and the sake recommendation was “Kiku-masamune Taruzake 菊正宗樽酒”. We ordered it. The guy behind the counter removed the wooden bung from the front of the large sake cask and poured sake into a large copper funnel with an “ochoushi お銚子” sake serving bottle underneath. A  “Ichigo-masu*** 一合升”  was located in the bottom  the funnel. Then, the sake in the “masu” Japanese wooden measuring cup was poured into the ochoshi and served. They had only “ichigo” size ochoshi sake serving bottles. (so if you order 2-go, you get two ochoshi bottles). The taruzake had a cidarly flavor as expected. Not our favorite but in this atmosphere, this was really enjoyable. They served other sakes either at room temperature or warmed. We had a few more sakes. The food menu was very small and simple. We got grilled tarako cod roe, tuna sashimi and others. The dishes were  not fancy but perfect for this place. The salary men around us were enjoying themselves and some were getting quite drunk. This was quite a genuine izakaya experience.

*”Fukube 瓢” is a traditional Japanese vessel made of hollowed out “hyou-tan gourd 瓢箪”  used to store and carry liquid especially sake.

**Reign of Showa emperor 1926-1989. I am firmly from this period since I was born and grew up in the showa period.

*** “Masu 升” is a traditional square wooden measuring cup. “Ichigo 1合” is about 180ml.

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