Aji 3 ways 2nd version 鯵3種類第二弾

This is the second time I got frozen "aji" or jack mackerel and decide to make three appetizers like I did before. I thought one had to be namerou なめろう(left) but I used a different kind of miso which made it quite different from the one I made previously. I also made "nanban" 南蛮 (middle) and "goma-saba" 胡麻鯖 (right). I served this in some newly acquired small bowls. 

The picture below is "goma-saba" which is a similar combination of flavors to the one I made before but because of the way it was cut and the additional topping, it looked and tasted different.

This is "nanban". The fish was deep fried first and marinated in spicy sweet vinegar.

Finally, our favorite "namerou". This time I made

 it with "red miso" or aka-miso 赤味噌.

Fish preparation:

After I thawed the package of "Aji" or jack mackerel in the refrigerator overnight, I washed it in cold water and blotted it dry between paper towels. I saturated a sheet of paper towel with rice vinegar and placed the fish fillets on the towel then covered them with another sheet of paper towel. I sprinkled rice vinegar on the top towel until it was saturated and let it sit for 10-15 minutes. This time, instead of cutting off the center, I removed the small bones from the center line using a Japanese bone tweezers.

1. Gama-saba 胡麻鯖 or Goma-aji (胡麻鯵).

This preparation is famous in Fukuoka which is located in the southernmost island of Kyushu. Although the fish I used may not be exactly same as "ma-saba" マサバ, it is close enough considering my limited supply of fish of any kind. The flavor profile is very similar to what I made before (marinated in soy sauce and then covered with roasted white sesame seeds) but the way the fish was sliced and the premixed sauce made a difference. The sauce is a mixture of dry roasted and ground up white sesame seeds (1 tbs), soy sauce 2 tbs) and mirin 2 tbs). The fish was cut into thin strips and marinaded in the sauce for 15 minutes in the refrigerator. I garnished it with thin nori strips, julienne of perilla leaves and roasted sesame seeds.

2. Aji anaban 鯵の南蛮

I made it exactly the same as the other nanban dishes. I first prepared sweet vinegar marinade (2/3 cup sweet vinegar, 1/4 dashi broth, mirin and light colored soy sauce (1 tbs each) and red pepper flakes. I  added julienne of sweet onion, celery, and carrot while the marinade was still warm and let it marinate until I was ready to fry the fish. I blotted the fish fillets dry and dredged with potato starch and fried in oil. While the fish was hot, I placed it in the marinade and made sure the fish was covered with marinade and vegetables.

3. Aji namerou 鯵のなめろう

I chopped fish, red miso, perilla leaves, scallion together. I also added small amount of mirin to adjust the consistency and also the taste. I served it with perilla flower buds or "ho jiso" 穂ジソ since they were available in our herb garden.

All three dishes are great for cold sake. The namerou was a bit on the salty side since I used red miso but had a nice nutty miso flavor which is better than the kouji miso I used before. The nanban was also very good. The fried potato starch crust became soft and gave rise to a nice texture. We liked the goma-saba preparation a bit better than "goma-mabush" I made previously. I'm sure our new Arita-kirn 有田焼 bowls added an additional "something" to our enjoyment of the dishes.

Christmas "Eggs Benedict" クリスマスエッグスベネディクト

This was what we ate for Christmas day lunch. For breakfast we had just a cup of cappuccino and assorted home-baked Christmas breads such as stollen and panettone. So for lunch, we decided to splurge and made this Christmas  egg(s) Benedict with smoked salmon. We have posted this variation before. I added green (broccoli) and red (tomatoes) for Christmas color.

  

The bread was homemade English muffin bread which my wife baked on Christmas eve. I garnished the Hollandais sauce with chopped chives and paprika.

We had just enough Davidson's pasteurized eggs to make the Hollandais  sauce and two poached eggs.

I made the Hollandais sauce as before (for 2 servings) with one egg yolk, lemon juice (I used juice from one Meyer lemon), cayenne pepper and half a stick of cold unsalted butter. I first mixed the egg yolk, a pinch of cayenne pepper and the lemon juice in a double boiler. I whipped the mixture for several minutes until it became frothy and doubled in volume. I added thin pats of butter and mixed until one pat completely got incorporated before adding the next. After adding half a stick of butter, the consistency of the sauce is like soft or slightly runny mayonnaise. I tasted it and I initially thought it was too spicy but on the poached egg, it was just fine. I seasoned it with a pinch of salt. This was one of the better Hollandaise sauces I ever made probably because I added enough cayenne pepper and the lemon juice was from a Meyer lemon.

So, this was a rather luxurious lunch. We liked this version with smoked salmon better than Canadian bacon or ham.

Eel rice 櫃まぶし

This is the second eel dish I made from the packet of eel I had in the freezer. It was also our ending "shime" dish for the evening. We started the meal with pork  belly "Kakuni" 角煮 and "U-maki" 鰻巻き. I could have made the usual Unadon うな丼 or Unaju うな重 (eel over rice in a bowl or rectangular lacquered box) but I decided to make "Hitsu-mabushi" 櫃まぶし which is a local dish in Nagoya 名古屋. It is an essentially more approachable (read "cheaper") version of unaju; small chopped up pieces of eel kabayaki mixed with rice seasoned with eel sauce. This dish may have started as a way to use the small end pieces of eel which may not have been suited for una-ju or una-don. It is traditionally served in a shared "Hitsu" 櫃 or a box with lid like I did here and my wife and I shared it. Using small pieces of eel mixed into the rice makes sharing more reasonable since it is more difficult for one person to just snarf up the whole eel piece and "run".

Usually, it is served with some condiments such as julienne of perilla leaves, scallion and nori seaweed.  Supposedly, you first enjoy the dish as is and then add the condiments. Finally wasabi and broth are added and it is eaten as "Ochazuke" お茶漬け. Although I prepared the broth for this, we ended up not having the Ochazuke.

The sauce was the same as I made for "U-maki" 鰻巻き.

I prepared the frozen and packaged eel kabayaki as I described in the "U-maki" post. I first removed the sauce the eel was packaged in by gently washing the fillet in hot water. I then cooked it in the toaster oven with my homemade sauce. I mixed some sauce and thin strips of eel kabayaki into the rice and mixed.

Sometimes small bones bother my wife when eating eel. (On one occasion I had to remove said bones from my wife's throat using a pair of plyers; that was a memorable meal not to be repeated). So I have to be very careful to remove as many bones as possible. I found some small bones were particularly dense under the fins and cut them off which helped a lot. We really enjoyed this dish. It is easier to eat since the eel was cut into small pieces and the rice was well seasoned with the eel sauce. I hope we will have something left next time for ochazuke.

Eel omelet 鰻巻き

My wife reminded me that although I have mentioned it several times in the blog I have not actually made "U-maki" 鰻巻き. It is pronounced as "Wu-maki" not "You-maki".  It is a type of Japanese omelet made with a piece of eel "Kabayaki" うなぎの蒲焼 wrapped in Japanese "dashimaki" だし巻き omelet. Since I had a frozen eel "Kabayaki" package in the freezer, I made two dishes from it. U-maki was the first one. Although the eel came already sauced in the package, I decided to make my own sauce to go over it. I thought my home made sauce would be fresher than the one the eel was packed in.

This is before I added my Kabayaki sauce.

The picture below is an 11oz eel kabayaki thawed overnight in the refridgerator.

Ingredients I used to make my own sauce:

Soy sauce 300ml

Mirin 300ml

Sake 100ml

Sugar 250-300 grams

Directions:

I added the mirin and sake to a saucepan and gently boiled it for a few minutes to let the alcohol evaporate. I then added the sugar and soy sauce. After the sugar melted completely, I gently simmered the sauce and reduced it by half. The sauce attained a thick viscous consistency. If I had some eel (or anago which sea eel) bones available, I would have grilled them and added them to the sauce while simmering to increase the flavor. Then I would have strained the sauce to remove the bones. 

I used 1/4 of the package of eel. Since I was planning to use my own sauce, I removed the sauce already on the eel by soaking the fillet in hot water from the InstaHot and gently rubbing the surface to remove the original sauce (This is based on my assumption that my home-made sauce would be better or at least fresher, than the one on the eel).  I blotted both sides with paper towels. I wrapped the eel pieces in aluminum foil with the skin side down (I thinly coated the foil with oil to prevent the skin from sticking) and placed the packet in the toaster oven (on toast mode) for 3 minutes. I then opened the top of the packet to expose the meat side of the eel and put it back in the toaster oven. I brushed on the sauce I made several times and cooked the eel for another 3 minutes.  I scored the surface with a chef's knife and cut into two pieces (below).

Dashi maki:

Ingredients:

3 eggs

3 tbs Dashi broth (I used #1 dashi 一番出し I made few days ago with kelp and bonito flakes).

1 tbs sugar

1/4 tsp salt

Directions:

I coated a rectangular Japanese omelet pan with oil and placed it on a medium low flame. When the pan was hot, I poured in 1/4 of the egg mixture and spread it. When the bottom was set, I placed the two pieces of eel on top of the eggs one inch from the top of the pan to span the width of the pan and started rolling. I repeated the process by adding the egg mixture and rolling (below). 

This is a classic combination. We really liked this. I thought my home made sauce worked out pretty well.  this dish is perfect as a drinking snack for sake but even red wine will work with this.

Prosciutto wrapped peach 白桃の生ハム巻き

We enjoyed cold past with fresh tomato sauce which became one of our favorite dishes especially during the hot summer. Whenever possible, instead of prepackaged prosciutto, we got our prosciutto from the delicatessen at our grocery store;  (Boar's head brand apparently imported from Italy).   It went really well with the cold pasta dish but we had extra prosciutto left. So one day, I came up with this dish.  Although, prosciutto wrapped cantaloupe is a classic, we happened to have white peaches which were getting ripe. So, I wrapped wedges of white peach with the prosciutto.

I first peeled the skin of the peaches and cut into small wedges. My wife does not like the reddish portion touching the stone/pit, so I also removed that and wrapped the remaining wedges with prosciutto. I served it with leaves of baby arugula and drizzled our favorite Spanish olive oil.

This was not too bad. Salty porky prosciutto and peach is a good combination. The spicy olive oil and peppery flavor of the baby arugula also went well.

Braised spicy marinated tofu ピリ辛豆腐

This is a variation of the baked spicy tofu which I previously posted. Although we really liked this dish, it tends to get somewhat dry and spongy when baked as called for in the original recipe. Instead of baking, I cooked it in a frying pan. It added a nice brown crust while keeping the inside really moist. This is a much better way to cook this dish.

Since I had a fresh chives, I garnished it with them.

The preparation is the same as the baked version. The marinade consists of Sriracha (or other hot sauce, whatever amount to your taste), 1 tbs each of soy sauce, dark sesame oil, sake, rice vinegar with  grated ginger and garlic. I marinated the cubes of tofu for several hours to several days in the refrigerator. I removed the tofu leaving the marinade in the Ziplock bag. In a non-stick frying pan, I added a small amount of vegetable oil and browned the surface of the tofu cubes turning several times. When the surface was browned, I add all the marinade to the pan and turned up the flame. I shook the pan several times as the marinade reduced until only small amount of liquid remained coating the surface of the tofu.

We found this is a much better way to cook this dish. The browning made a nice crust and the tofu remained moist. The reduced marinade made a nice sauce making the mouth "sing" gently with hot flavor. It reheated well in the microwave. This is a perfect small drinking snack. This will go with either wine or sake.

Cod with tofu soba noodle 鱈ちり風かけ蕎麦

Some time ago, I prepared sake lee marinade or "Kasu-doko" 粕どこ and used it to make a few dishes.  I stored it in a sealed container in the refrigerator (meat drawer).  I happened to check if it was still good and it was. So, when I saw a good looking cod filet in the grocery store, I got one for sake lee marinated grilled cod.  It so happened that I had too much cod and I could not fit everything into the marinade.  I used the extra for this Sunday lunch.

This is similar to the clear soup with cod and tofu I posted before. To make it as a lunch, I decided to add noodles. My choice was between so-men ソーメン (very thin Japanese noodle) or soba 蕎麦. When I checked my dried noodle container, the soba package was already open so the decision was made.

Besides cod and tofu, I added two kinds of mushrooms; maitake 舞茸 (hen-of-the-wood) and shiitake 椎茸.

I garnished it with the skin of yuzu ゆず (frozen) and chopped chives. For color, I also added ribbons of carrot.

There is no recipe for this; I just put the ingredients together. I boiled dried soba noodles and rinsed them in cold running water and set aside.

I just used number one dashi (ichiban dashi 一番出し) I made some days ago from kelp and dried bonito flakes seasoned with mirin and light colored soy sauce. I placed fresh shiitake and maitake mushrooms in, as well as cubes of tofu and thinly shaved carrot (by a peeler). When the broth heated up, I turned it down to simmer and added the cod. I let it gently poach in the liquid for 5 minutes. 

I placed the cooked soba noodles in a bowl and arranged the cod, mushrooms and tofu over them. Then I poured in the broth. I garnished it with chopped chives and yuzu skin.

For mine, I sprinkled on a Japanese red pepper flakes (ichimi tougarashi 一味唐辛子). The broth was good and went well with the flaky moist cod. We could have made this as a soup, added a bowl of rice and called it dinner.  

Buta-jiru 豚汁

Every time we go to our nearby gourmet grocery store, we can not resist getting some pork belly. This time we got about a 1 lb block. I made most of it into "Kakuni" 豚の角煮 but I sliced off some thin strips (called sanmai niku 三枚肉) to use in something else.  I ended up making "buta-jiru" 豚汁. The reasons are multiple. When I posted "Rice with butter and soy sauce", somebody left a comment introducing us to a Japanese TV series  called "Shinya shokudo" 深夜食堂 or "midnight diner" since one of the episodes was about "rice with butter and soy sauce". We managed to watch all episodes available and also a movie. More recently, new, at least we have not watched, episodes called "Tokyo series" became  available on Netflix as a Netflix original series. The opening sequence of all these episodes shows "the master" making buta-jiru 豚汁.  On the top of that, when I posted pork and vegetable stew (recipe from Mark's Izakaya book), I reminisced about "Buta-jiru" and cook-out picnics 炊事遠足 I had when I was in grade school. So, one weekend, I made buta-jiru for lunch.

There is no  precise recipe for this. This is a sort of glorified miso soup with thinly sliced pork belly cooked with Japanese root vegetables and kon-nyaku こんにゃく.

Here you can see daikon, carrot, kon-nyaku and mai-take 舞茸 (hen-of-the-wood) mushrooms. I had just used up all the burdock root so this dish did not include any.

In the Shinya shokudo opening sequence,  "the master" uses shiitake mushroom 椎茸 but I used mai-take since I happened to have it.

Ingredients (amounts are all arbitrary):

Sam-mai niku (thinly sliced pork belly)

Daikon,  Carrot, mushrooms (shiitake or mai-take), kon-nyaku, gobo burdock root, onion (either regular onion or scallion. If you have it Japanese or "Tokyo" scallion is better).

Japanese Dashi broth

Miso (I used a mixture of Koji-miso and Aka-miso). 

Vegetable oil for sautéing.

Directions:

I peeled and cut the root vegetables into bite sized pieces. I soaked the Gobo in acidified water for 10-20 minutes, washed and then drained. I parboiled the Kon-nyaku in water, then washed it in cold running water. Like the master, I hand torn the kon-nyaku into pieces. Hand tearing makes irregular surfaces on which the flavor can cling to (kon-nyaku does not have any flavor just texture so the clinging sauce gives it some flavor). I sliced the scallion on the bias.

I put a small amount of vegetable oil in the pan and sautéed the pork. When some fat rendered out and the pork changed color, I added the root vegetables and kon-nyaku (sans scallion) and mixed so that oil coated the surfaces. I then added the broth to cover the vegetables. I simmered it with a lid on for 20-30 minutes or until all the vegetables were cooked. I dissolved the miso using my miso-koshi 味噌漉しcontraption and added the scallion. Once it came to a boil, I turned off the flame. We had this as a weekend lunch. Although a bowl of rice and small pickled vegetable are usual accompaniments, we just enjoyed this soup/stew which was more than enough for us. By the way, this type of combination of dishes is called "Teishoku" 定食 or predetermined multi-item meals very popular in "public eateries" or 大衆食堂. In this particular case, "Butajiru teishoku" 豚汁定食 which is the only set menu item at the midnight diner.

Tofu pouch with cheese and nori のりチーズびりから焼き油揚げ

This is a variation on the theme of grilled abura-age or deep fried tofu pouch. I made this dish since I had rather "getting-old" frozen abura-age in the freezer. 

Instead of grilling it in the toaster oven, I fried it in a frying pan. For a change, I sandwiched seasoned nori seaweed and smoked gouda cheese.

Here you can see the first cheese layers covered half way by a seasoned nori seaweed.

I also spread a small amount of Sriracha hot sauce to add some kick. I simply fried both sides in a frying pan with a very small amount of vegetable oil until both side were crispy.

We ate this with a little bit of soy sauce. Sriracha really gave nice zing to this dish.

Chestnuts 北米産の栗

In mid September, we finally got a shipment of North American Chestnuts from Girolami farm.　I have already exhausted my repertoire of chestnut recipes but one post per year is warranted to commemorate the chestnut season.  This year, I made only a few dishes. The first one was chestnut rice 栗ご飯.  I used regular Japanese rice instead of sweet rice this time. As before, I made it in the "Kamado san" かまどさん donabe rice cooker.

North American chestnuts have many creases and when mixed tend to crumble into smaller pieces. I seasoned the rice with a mixture of black sesame seeds and kosher salt "Goma shio" ごま塩.

Since it was Sunday, we had some small dishes (which I do not remember) and the chestnut rice was the ending or "shime" dish. I usually barbecue some kind of meat mostly for sandwiches the next week. This time we cooked pork roast.

Since we were already rather full, we had a few slices of pork with cucumber onion salad with Greek yogurt dressing.

Here are all three items lined up. I was a pretty good combination. 

This is just a composite picture of this year's chestnuts. They are nice large, fresh chestnuts (much better than imported uncooked chestnuts from Europe).

I've finally gotten the hang of peeling these type of chestnuts. I first soak them in cold water for several hours and then boil them for 30 minutes. I take several at a time and start peeling them while they are still hot. The outer skin is easy to peel but the inner skin requires some effort. In any case, I peeled quite few of them in no time.

Matsutake 松茸

We got a shipment of North American Matsutake from Oregon mushrooms the last week of September. Among the North American matsutake, the ones from Mexico are the most similar to the ones in Japan but, for us, the ones from Oregon are a good balance between flavor and price. I have posted many matsutake dishes previous so  this time I just made one composite post to signify the fall season.

Unlike Japanese matsutake, these Oregon matsutake are covered with dirt which is difficult to remove using just wet paper towels. So, I usually end up scraping the surface of the mushroom with a sharp paring knife. It is the pretty unpleasant to bite into grit either sand or dirt while eating matsutake.

We started with a few small dishes before we delved into feasting on the matsutake this evening. As shown below we had stir fried cabbage with abura-age similar to stir fried beef and cabbage I post before. I served this with spicy marinated tofu but instead of baking the tofu as I did previously, I cooked it in a frying pan. I first browned the pieces without sauce and then poured in the sauce and cook until the sauce was reduced. We found this is much better preparation than when they are baked. The tofu maintains its moisture with nice "piri-kara" spicy hot and salty flavor. I served this after a brief microwaving.

The cabbage dish is classic Japanese home cooking. Instead of meat, deep dried tofu pouch or abura-age is used cut into small strips and sauteed with vegetable oil and a splash of dark sesame oil and red pepper flakes. I then braised it in mirin and soy sauce. I garnished it with blanched broccoli.

The second small dish was made from something I usually discard. In preparation for making the matsutake dishes, I made a broth from kelp and dried bonito flakes (katsuo-bushi). I made two kinds of broths; Ichi-ban (#1) dashi and ni-ban (#2) dashi (一番だし、２番だし)*.  I decided to make the leftover spent kelp and bonito flakes to a dish by braising  them in mirin and soy sauce until the moisture was almost all gone. This is a type of "Tsukudani" 佃煮. Although these items were "spent" by making broth, they are still full of "umami". My wife was pleasantly surprised this dish went well with the Napa Cab we were drinking.

* #1 broth: After simmering the kelp for 10 minutes in water, I added dried bonito flakes and let it simmer for 30 seconds then cut the flame. I let it steep for another 5 minutes and then strained it without pressing. #2 broth: I put the kelp and the bonito used to make #1 broth back into the pan and added water. I let this mixture simmer for 30 minutes and then strained it. #1 dashi is the premier extraction of dashi flavors. The best analogy would be to say it is like cold pressed extra virgin olive oil while #2 dashi is like second press with heat light olive oil. #1 dashi is best used in clear soups or chawan-mushi and #2 broth is good for simmered dishes.

This is the first matsutake dish of the evening. I made matsutake touban-yaki. This time I did not add sake to steam it.

Even off the flame, the touban or ceramic disc retained heat. Upon opening the dome, the subtle but rather distinct aroma of matsutake wafted up. The steam rising from it is just visible in the picture below. We simply enjoyed this with lime (in leu of "kabosu" カボス) and Kosher salt. Of course we switched to cold sake at this point. Since we were drinking sake from Yamagata, we used "Tsugaru-nuri" sake cups we got from the Aomori prefecture (both are northern prefectures in the mainland).

The second matsutake dish I made was chawanmushi. Since I did not have any special ingredients, I made this with what I had on hand. I put in some shrimp (thawed, shelled, deveined, and cut  into small chunks), ginko nuts (from a can), and boiled North American chestnuts I had prepared previously. On the top were slices of matsutake, hana-fu 花麩 (decorative gluten cake, hydrated), the green part of scallion and yuzu skin (frozen).

Although there is a good amount of matsutake is in this dish, it is difficult to see in the picture. This is another of our favorite ways of enjoying matsutake. The egg custard was silky smooth. (I used #1 dashi broth for this dish seasoned with mirin, light colored soy sauce and salt).

At this point, we were getting filled up, so I skipped the matsutake clear soup 松茸のも吸い物  I had planned and went to the last dish of matsutake rice  松茸御飯. As usual, I used the "Kamado-san" かまどさん donabe 土鍋 rice cooker. I used a mixture of #1 and #2 broth, lightly seasoned with sake and light colored soy sauce. I also added small pieces of kelp.

This time I did not intentionally make browned crust or "okoge" おこげ to maintain the delicate flavor of the matustake. The rice developed a very nice sheen. 

I ate my serving as is; enjoying the subtle flavor and aroma of the matsutake and rice. But when I wasn't looking my wife added pats of butter to hers. (She confessed it was sublime)

The sake we had was called "kudoki jouzu" or pick-up artist, Junmai Ginjou くどき上手  純米吟醸 from Kamenoi shuzou 亀の井酒造 in Yamagata prefecture 山形県. Yamagata has many good sake breweries including "Juyondai sake" 十四代 of Takagi shuzou  高木酒造. This is made from 美山錦 miyama-nishiki which is the sake rice adapted to colder climate as I understand it. This is a nice clean sake with crisp acidity and the floral quality of Daiginjou. Ture sake website describes this sake as follows; "Great name and a great nose on this sake with hints of pear, apple, and purple plum aromas. Ahhhhh! A brew that gets it. A terrific feeling sake that fills the mouth with fat and gooey flavors but stays super smooth. The brilliant acidity-balancing act takes the sweetness out of the gambit of fruit flavors including pineapple and mango. Plump and complex this "sexy beast" is layered and luxurious with attitude and swagger. Drink closer to room temp if you want even more fruit tones, but chilled is happening." which we agree for the most part. We enjoyed matsutake this evening. Only regret I have is that I could not arrange to have some nice sashimi with this.