Okonomi-yaki, Hiroshima style 広島風お好み焼き

We mentioned that the two major styles of okonomi-yaki are Osaka- 大阪風 and Hiroshima-style 広島風. We have been making variations of Osaka-style since Hiroshima-style appears more difficult to make at home. It is usually made on a grill and requires more technically difficult flipping traditionally done with a  special type of spatula. In addition because a type of fried egg and cooked noodles are added to the pancake, cooking these items to add to the okonomi-yaki requires additional cooking space. So it is more difficult to make Hiroshima-style at home especially if you do not have a fairly large grill and would have to make it in a frying pan.

We saw a few Youtube videos in which two frying pans were used to circumvent these difficulties. So, we decided to try it. The top layer of this version is a fried egg (yolk broken but not beaten before cooking) followed by the noodle, pork belly, tempura bits, scallion, cabbage and the bottom layer of the thin pancake/crepe. The picture shows the okonomi-yaki cut into serving pieces (by scissors), but before adding the topping and sauce.

The next picture is the cut surface showing the layers of the dish after toppings (julien of picked ginger, aonori) and sauces (okonomi-yaki sauce and Kewpie mayo) were added. This version is good with nice noodles but the crepe was basically non-existent. Compared to the Osaka-style in which the batter incorporated the cabbage, a thin crepe layer as used in the Hiroshima style made of the same batter has much less impact. We like this version with noodles but we prefer the Osaka-style especailly since it is much easier to make. There is also a variation of Osaka-style which includes noodles. It is usually called “Modan-yaki* モダン焼き. We may try that next.

*The origin of the name “modan” has two theories; one is that it was derived from the English word “modern” indicating this is new kind of okonomi-yaki, the other theory is it comes from a Japanese phrase “mori-dakusan 盛りだくさん” meaning “so many good things” which got abbreviated as “mo-da-n”.

This recipe, especially the directions, are mostly based on a YouTube episode by Koh Kentetsu using 8 and 10 inch frying pans (in Japanese).

Ingredients:
Batter (rather thin like crepe batter adjust the liquid amount)
50 grams Okonomi-yaki flour (or cake flour)
80 grams water or broth

3 scallions chopped (#3)
2 tbs tempura bits (#3)
2 strips of thin sliced pork belly
100 grams (more or less) shredded cabbage
1 package of  yakisoba noodle with seasoning (thawed or microwaved, see #5)
1 egg
2 tbs vegetable oil

Directions:
Add half of the batter to oiled small frying pan (8 inches) and make a thin crepe (#1) and set aside.
Add the pork belly to the larger frying pan (10 inches) on medium-low flame (#2). Place the shredded cabbage, scallion and tempura bits (#3) on top of the pork belly.  (The original instructions suggest putting more cabbage on top and drizzling the remaining batter on top of the new cabbage, which I forgot to do).
Cover the mound of cabbage with the crepe (#4), cook for 4-5 minutes. Place the noodles (#5) in the small frying pan with oil and cook for a few minutes, season and set aside. (The seasoning can be soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, or okonomi-yaki sauce but I used the seasoning that came with the noodle package). Then add the some oil and one egg, to the small frying pan. Break the yolk and spread it around with the egg white (#6). While the egg yolk is still runny place the noodles on top (#7). 

Slide the cabbage and crepe shown in #4 over the noodles and eggs shown in #7 using a spatula to form 4 layers; with the egg on the bottom covered with the noodles that are covered with the cabbage and topped with the crepe. 

Cook for about 1 minute. Place the now empty larger frying pan on the top of the small frying pan and flip the contents of the smaller pan into the larger pan. So the 4 layers are inverted with the egg layer now on top in the larger pan (#8). Cook 2 more minutes to make the crepe (which is now the bottom layer) slightly brown and crispy.

Easy-peesy, right? This is a pretty good okonomi-yaki but the bottom crepe was non-existent. We could have made the whole thing without okonomi-yaki batter crepe and never would have missed it. However, covering the cabbage with the crepe is important to steam/cook the cabbage under the crepe (#4). In addition, this is probably the style we ate in Japan which left us so under whelmed. It was good to try making this Hiroshima style but our recent liking of okonomi-yaki is probably based on our new found discovery of Osaka style.

Okonomi-yaki, Osaka-style Summary 大阪風お好み焼き総括

Here is a summary of the various “Osaka-style” okonomi-yaki we have experimented making recently. The picture shows an approximately 8 inch okonomi-yaki made with pork belly and all the toppings. I just wanted to post a summary of where we were able to get all the Japanese ingredients for an okonomi-yaki as well as the standard way to cook and top it.

Ingredients (basic or essential):
Cabbage キャベツ: Japanese or Taiwanese cabbage work best. Japanese cabbage is available from Suzuki Farm and Taiwanese from Weee. Compared to the American variety, the cabbage heads are flatter and not as round. We also think the leaves are more tender, sweeter and easier to separate than the american variety.

Scallion ねぎ: Chopped scallion either mixed into the batter, added as a topping or included both ways. 

Batter: There are two main ways to prepare the batter
Using either “Okonomiyaki” flour (#1 in the composite) or regular cake flour. The main difference is that the Okonomi-yaki flour already has kelp powder in it (which is one of the primary flavor elements, in addition to bonito, in Japanese dashi broth). So the batter can be made just using water instead of Japanese broth.  In addition because it does not include bonito, it is vegetarian. Cake flour can also be used as the base for the batter. While just plain water can be used as the moisture element in batter made with cake flour, it does not have any additional flavoring, either kelp or bonito, the resulting batter will not taste the same as one made with the Okonomi-yaki flour. So Japanese broth (made traditional style with kelp and bonito, or vegetarian style with kelp and dried shiitake mushroom) is generally used to achieve a similar flavor profile when using cake flour. The Okonomiyaki flour is available either from “Otafuku” US web site or “Weee”. Also vegetarian Japanese broth can be made with kelp and dried shiitake instead of bonito. In addition, (to make things even more complicated) both flour versions can also include grated “nagaimo” Japanese mountain yam which, while not adding additional flavoring, makes the texture more moist. (But I only used it in the cake flour version)

“Tenkasu” 天かす Tempura bits (#2). These bits can be either vegetarian or flavored with dried squid or shrimp.  Otafuku offers only vegetarian while Weee offers both. Although this can be omitted it is a standard ingredient. We like putting this on the pancake rather than mixing it in the batter because when you flip it, the tenkasu gets browned and crispy. Otherwise if you mix it in the batter, it sort of disappears

Toppings:(we got these toppings from Weee. Some are also available from Amazon)
1. Kizami shouga 刻み生姜. Julienne of pickled  ginger. This gives a nice ginger taste (#6)
2. Aonori 青海苔. Dried green laver. 
3. Katsuo-bushi flakes 鰹節 or kezuri-bush 削り節 which is thinly shaved fermented dried bonito and is the main ingredient of Japanese dashi broth. (Since it is made from dried fish, it is not used in the vegetarian version of okonomi-yaki).
4. Mayonnaise, specifically Japanese Kewpie mayonnaise (#5) which we got from Weee. Since we have never used Kewpie mayo, we were interested in how it compared to our standard American Hellman’s mayo. We found Kewpie mayo is smoother, slightly tangier and sweeter than Hellmann’s. Hellmann’s can be made to emulate Kewpie by adding rice vinegar and sugar. Conversely, we read, there is an American Kewpie, (which we have not tried). It is made differently from the Japanese variety. but was reported to taste like any other American mayo.

Sauce:
The mayo can be omitted but the okonomi-yaki sauces are a must. As far as we are concerned they make the dish. In general, regular okonomi-yaki sauce is available at Otafuku, Weee or any Japanese grocery store. However the Otafuku website also offers a spicy version (#4) in addition to the regular (#3) both of which are vegan. I also saw a “deluxe” version of the sauce at Otafuku which is not vegan and much more expensive. 

I suppose it is easy to make “regular” sauce into “spicy” sauce by adding your favorite hot sauce to the regular okonomi-yaki sauce.

Basic Directions to make okonomi-yaki

Directions for batter I made:
1) with water:
56g “Otafuku” okonomiyaki flour

92g water
1 egg

2) with Japanese broth and grated nagaimo:
50 grams cake flour 
40 grams Japanese broth (either vegetarian or traditional)
1 egg
40 grams grated Nagaimo 長芋 (which is available from Weee or a Japanese grocery store)

Directions for assembling the pancake:

1. Mix the batter, egg, cabbage, and scallion
2. Add the oil to an 8 inch frying pan on medium-low heat and pour in the batter to form a round disk about 2 cm by pressing the batter lightly with a spatula. 
3. Add the tempura bits and spread the pork belly on top if using. (#1 in the composite below)
4. Cook uncovered for 4 minutes
5. Flip and cook for 4 more minutes (you can either put on the lid or not as your preference.) We did not think the lid made much difference to the final product but most of the instructions include placing the lid (#2) in the composite below. We also found that when cooked with the lid on the pork belly was less crispy and more chewy. 
6. Flip the pancake again. The meat and tempura bits should be brown and crispy. (#3 in the composite below) Cook uncovered (if used the lid in the step 5) for 2-3 minutes
7. Remove the pancake to a plate or cutting board. Spread the mayo and sauce and top with the ginger, aonori, and bonito flakes (#4 in the composite below).

After making several version of okonomi-yaki, we learned;

1. Cake flour with graded nagaimo and broth (either vegetarian or bonito and kelp) vs. Okomoni-yaki flour mix (from Otafuku which is vegan containing just powdered kelp) did not make a big difference. Actually we may slightly prefer using the Otafuku flour mix which is also much easier to prepare. 

2. Rather than mixing tempura bits into the batter, it is better to layer them on the top. Otherwise, they totally disappear where as they become nicely crunchy when layered on the top.

3. We found whether or not a lid should be used after the first flipping is debatable.  Although, some recipes indicate placing the lid will make it more tender and fluffy, we found that it may also make the pork meat (if using) less crispy and more chewy. We did not see any significant difference in the okonomi-yaki itself.

4. Using Japanese Kewpie mayonnaise may be authentic but not essential

5. In terns of proteins, thinly sliced pork belly is the standard. We also tried substituting smoked bacon for the pork belly. (We call an okonomi-yaki made with smoked bacon “Bethesda Maryland style” which we like better than one made with pork belly). Seafood versions can be made with shrimp, scallops etc. A vegetarian version can be made with the addition of mushrooms such as shiitake, carrot etc and/or abura-age deep fried tofu as vegetarian simulation of the traditional pork belly

In any case, this dish is quite forgiving and you can make it with less or more ingredients once the base of the batter and shredded cabbage has been made. 

Blueberry Yogurt Popsicle ブルーベリー ヨーグルト アイスキャンディー

We were trying to take advantage of the local blueberry season and, as a result of our exuberance, we ended up with an excess of blueberries. My wife prepared blueberry puree which can be used for many things such as muffins, sauce for pancakes or added to yogurt. This time, she wanted to make a cold desert using the blueberry puree. We took an easy way and made this blueberry popsicle (rather than ice cream which would have required an ice cream churn) (Picture #1). I remembered that we have a silicon mold which could be used to make a popsicle. The original purpose of the molds was to make “Bacon Cheese Egg bites”. But designed to be multipurpose they included some lids and sticks so the molds could be used to make popsicles.  The resulting popsicle is shown in picture #1. Actually we did not eat it as a popsicle but removed the stick and cut it in half and served it. This is easy to make and not bad for a cold dessert.

Ingredients:
For the Yogurt Base:
1 cup strained blueberry puree 
5 1/2 ounces (3/4 cup; 155 g) full-fat Greek yogurt, 5% milk fat (my wife made Greek yogurt from her home made full-fat yogurt)
2 ounces granulated sugar (1/4 cup; 55 g)
2 ounces (1/4 cup; 55 g) heavy cream (we used light cream)
1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice from 1 lemon (we omitted this )
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt; for table salt, use half as much by volume

Directions
For the Blueberry Purée: In a 2-quart stainless steel saucepan, stir together blueberries on low heat. Cook, stirring occasionally with a heat-resistant spatula, until the blueberries soften and exude some juice. Puree the mixture until very smooth with an immersion blender, about 15 seconds. Strain the blueberry purée through a fine-mesh strainer set over a small bowl to remove skin fragments (you should have 1 cup of strained purée).

For the Yogurt Base: In a medium bowl, whisk together yogurt, sugar, cream, lemon juice, and salt until well combined.

To Make the Popsicles: Whisk blueberry purée into yogurt base until thoroughly combined. Divide the popsicle base evenly between six 3-fluid-ounce popsicle molds (#2). We covered them with the lid that came with the mold and inserted the stick that also came with the mold (#3) (these may not have needed since we did not consume this as a popsicle).

These were a very refreshing conclusion to dinner on a hot summer’s day. They were creamy in texture and unlike the sorbet we made recently could be divided into pieces without the help of a “chisel”. The blueberry flavor also came through very nicely.

Pork Okonomi-yaki 豚バラお好み焼き

This is a probably the most standard version of Osaka-style okonomi-yaki which is made using pork belly. As you can see, after placing sauces and toppings on the pancake it is difficult to see which version of okomoni-yaki this is (although, it can’t be vegetarian since the toppings include bonito flakes). As usual, this is topped with mayo, okonomi-yaki sauce (we used Otafuku brand, both regular and spicy), pickled and julienned red ginger, aonori dried laver and finally bonito flakes. Actually, this is the third time we tried okonomi-yaki with pork belly. We were trying to find a way to make the pork crispy rather than chewy. This time, the result was the best. We’re really starting to like okonomi-yaki.

Ingredients: (makes one 8 inch pancake)
For batter
56g “Otafuku” okonomi-yaki flour (or you can just use cake flour)
92g water
1 egg

150g shredded cabbage
3 scallions, finely chopped
Tenkasu tempura bits
1/2 tbs vegetable oil (for cooking)

4 slices of thinly sliced pork belly (or smoked bacon; to make “Bethesda Maryland style” okonomi-yaki)

For toppings
Mayonnaise
Okonomi-yaki sauce (I used a mixture of regular and spicy sauces)
Julienned ginger in sweet vinegar or “Kizami ginger 刻み生姜”
Dried “aonori 青海苔” laver
Kezuribushi 削り節 bonito shavings

Directions:
Mix the flour, water, and egg, add the cabbage and scallion and mix. Add the oil in the frying pan on medium-low flame (400F using laser thermometer). Add the batter mixture into the frying pan and press into 2cm thick round. Top it with the tempura bits and thin slices of pork belly seasoned with salt and pepper (#1). Cook for 4 minutes. Flip it (#2). Put on the lid and cook for 4 minutes. Remove the lid and flip again (#3). Some of the tempura bits will get browned. Cook without a lid for another 3 minutes. Take it our to the cutting board or plate.

Smear the surface with the mayo (I added a small amount of sugar and rice vinegar to emulate Japanese Kewpie mayo) and sauce (#4). For toppings, scatter the ginger and aonori (#4). Finally add the bonito flakes (the first serving picture).

This version really worked. The pork came out more crispy than the previous pork versions of okonomi-yaki (which we did not blog about). The oil of the pork belly adds additional flavor to the pancake. (We found using the smoked bacon used for the Bethesda style okonomi-yaki came out more crispy than the pork belly. The bacon also added more rich meat flavor.)

Seafood Okonomi-yaki 海鮮お好み焼き

Although, as we mentioned in a previous blog, we had it several times in Japan and were not impressed, we are re-discovering “Okonomi-yaki お好み焼き” the Japanese style savory pancake. We are finding we like the ones we are making much better than the ones we had in Japan. “Okonomi” means “as you like” or “whatever you like”. “Yaki” means grill/fry. So the literal translation of Okonomi-yaki means “whatever you like fry”. As you would expect, given its name, this pancake is made with whatever you prefer or have on hand which is then added to the traditional cabbage and batter base. Since we had shredded Japanese cabbage (from Suzuki Farm), we decided to finish up the cabbage by making a okonomi-yaki for lunch one day. We decided to go with seafood as the protein topping. We had frozen shrimp and frozen bay scallops. This turned out to be really great okonomi-yaki. Both the shrimp and scallops were not over cooked and all the toppings including bonito flakes worked. We shared one okonomi-yaki between the two of us and it was quite a filling lunch.

Ingredients: (makes one 8 inch pancake)
For batter
56g “Otafuku” okonomi-yaki flour (or you can just use cake flour)
92g water
1 egg

150g shredded cabbage
3 scallions, finely chopped
Tenkasu tempura bits
1/2 tbs vegetable oil (for cooking)

For seafood (#1 in the composite picture)
3 medium shrimp, shelled and halved and cut into small portions
12 bay scallops

For toppings
Mayonnaise
Okonomi-yaki sauce (I used a mixture of regular and spicy sauces)
Julienned ginger in sweet vinegar or “Kizami ginger 刻み生姜”
Dried “aonori 青海苔” laver
Kezuribushi 削り節 bonito shavings

Directions:
Mix the flour, water, and egg, add the cabbage and scallion and mix. Add the seafood (I cut the shrimp into small chunks except for two halves which I placed on the top (#2). Add the oil to the frying pan on medium-low flame (400F using laser thermometer). Add the batter mixture into the frying pan and press into 2cm thick round. Top it with the tempura bits (#2). Cook for 4 minutes. Flip it (#3). Place on the lid and cook for 4 minutes (later we tried with the lid or without and decided no need for the lid). Remove the lid and flip again (#4). Some of the tempura bits get browned. Cook without lid for another 2 minutes.

Smear the surface with the mayo (I added small amount of sugar and rice vinegar to emulate the traditional Japanese Kwepie mayo used) and sauce (#5). Scatter the ginger and aonori (#6). Finally add the bonito flakes (the first serving picture).

We are really liking these okonomi-yaki. Although we never made one with American style cabbage, the Asian style cabbage we used is much more tender. So, we think it is probably closer to the cabbage traditionally used and probably works better than the American cabbage. The pancake is tender and with all the ingredients has a good range of flavors. The shrimp and scallops in this version added a tender slight sweetness. The toppings, especially the ginger and mixture of spicy and regular okonomi-yaki sauce are a must have.