Salmon Pate サーモンパテ

When we get fresh salmon, we most often get a package of half filet of whole salmon which is quite large for us. It is not scaled so I have to scale it (since we consider the skin one of the best parts of the salmon). We make several salmon dishes besides individual filets and belly, including salmon cake/burger, Russian marinated salmon, Salmon “nanban” (fried salmon marinated in sweet vinegar) and others. A more recent addition was salmon pate of which I made two variations . This time, I made salmon scallop pate based on a recipe from the “Silver Palate Good Times Cookbook”. The original recipe is a bit complicated (as would be expected from this cookbook) so my version is a bit simplified and modified based on the ingredients I had on hand. For example, I only had a few left-over frozen bay scallops. Turned out I did not have enough scallops, so both the top and bottom scallop layers were a bit too thin. In addition, the bottom layer was too soft. (I may have to increase the amount of scallops and possibly add a binder such as egg white.). The original recipe called for a green layer of pate made from green peas and scallops. Instead I substituted chopped dill for the green peas to make a green layer. The original recipe also called for finely chopped un-cooked leeks. I thought that the uncooked leeks would be too strong in flavor so I sautéed the leeks in olive oil before adding to the pate. Despite the small size and soft consistency of the scallop layers, this was quite good as a starter. I served it with diced tomatoes and onions dressed with yuzu juice and olive oil (sort of tomato coulis)  (picture #1).

I substantially reduced the amount of ingredients from what was called for in the original recipe. (Many of the recipes in this cookbook are “restaurant volume”. We often reduce them in size to “household volume”.)

Ingredients:
For scallop pate
130 grams frozen bay scallops, thawed
1/3 cup finely chopped leeks, sautéed in olive oil
1/4 teaspoon salt, pinch of grated nutmeg, pinch of cayenne  pepper
1/3 heavy cream, chilled 
1/4 cup finely chopped dill
Ground nutmeg and cayenne pepper to taste  

For salmon pate
200 grams of fresh salmon, skin and bone removed, cut into small chunks, chilled
1/2 cup finely chopped leeks, sautéed in olive oil
1/3 cup heavy cream
1 whole egg
1/2 tablespoon tomato paste

1/2 tsp lemon zest
1/4 teaspoon salt, pinch of grated nutmeg, pinch of cayenne  pepper

Directions:
Add the scallopsbr /> with 1/3 cup of the leeks in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Process until smooth. Add the salt, pinch of nutmeg and cayenne pepper, and process again. With the motor running, dribble in about 1/3 cup of the chilled heavy cream in a slow steady stream. Remove half of the mixture to a bowl; cover and refrigerate. The remaining half, stir in lemon zest and dill. Cover and refrigerate. 
Clean processor bowl. Place salmon and remaining leeks in the bowl of the processor, fitted with a steel blade, and process until nearly smooth. Add the whole egg and tomato paste then mix. Season with additional ½ teaspoon salt, pinch of nutmeg, cayenne pepper, and process until smooth. With the motor running, dribble in the remaining 1/3 cup heavy cream in a slow steady stream. As soon as all the cream is in, shut off the processor and refrigerate immediately.
I used three small (2.5 by 5.5 inch) silicon baking loaf pans. Spoon the plain scallop mixture into the bottom of the pan. Then the salmon mixture over the scallop layer and smooth with a spatula. Finally, spread the dill and scallop mixture over the salmon layer and smooth it.
Wrap the loaf pans in aluminum foil and set it in a larger baking pan. Pour boiling water into the larger baking pan so that it comes about halfway up the sides of the loaf pans. Set the resulting bain-marie in the center of a preheated 350°F. oven and bake for 45 minutes, or until an instant-read thermometer gives an internal temperature of 130°F.
Remove the loaf pan from the hot water and cool to room temperature. Refrigerate overnight.
Because I used silicon baking pans, unmolding was easy.

I should have made more scallop pate. The scallop pate was a bit softer than the salmon pate. Next time, I will add just one green or dill scallop layer on the top of the salmon layer rather than one scallop layer on the bottom and one on the top (picture #2).

This made a great appetizer. It had a luscious creamy texture. The salmon flavor really shone through. The scallop layers were a bit muted but that could have been because they were rather thin. Overall quite a treat.

Air Fried Chicken Tender Cutlets エアーフライ鳥のささみカツレツ

Recently we have been trying out the air fryer function on our new toaster oven. This time, we tried chicken tender cutlets. Our favorite way of cooking these is to marinate them in mirin and ponzu, breading and deep frying them. This creates a nice flavorful and moist meat with a crunchy crust. So, this time our goal was to see if we could recreate the same flavor and texture profile of the oil fried tender using the air fryer. I changed the marinade a bit by including mayonnaise which, I’m beginning to think, is key for getting a good air frying result. Besides tenderizing the meat, the thin layer of mayo on the surface adds an oil component without being greasy as when the chicken is oil fried. In addition, I used panko crumbs sautéed and browned in olive oil. The air fried chicken tenders were a great success. The meat was very flavorful, extra tender and moist with a nice crunchy crust and no oiliness. We would even go so far as to say we like the air-fried version better than deep dried! We served this with home-made Greek (strained) yogurt dip seasoned with olive oil and salt (picture #1).

The idea of using mayo in the marinade is something I picked up from cooking blogs I follow (in Japanese).

Ingredients:
x6 chicken tenders

For marinade
2 tbs mayonnaise
2 tsp miso
1 tsp soy sauce (I used x4 Japanese noodle sauce)
1/2 tsp sugar
1/2 tsp grated garlic

For dredging
1/2 cup panko
2 tbs light olive oil
2 tbs grated parmesan cheese (optional0

Directions:
Mix the marinade and place it in a large enough Ziploc bag. Add the tenders (removing the tendon attached to one end) and massage to coat. Removed air as much as you can and let it marinade for few hours or over night in the refrigerator.

Add the olive oil in a frying pan on medium low flame. When oil is hot add the panko and stir and toss until oil is distributed and lightly browned for few minutes. Let it cool and if using add the grated parmesan cheese.

Take out the tenders from the marinade and dredge in the browned panko bread crumbs (see picture #2).

Air fry at 450F for 10 minutes and turn them over and cook a 5 more minutes (total of 15 minutes)

I think the secret to good air frying appears to be adding a bit of oily components on the surface of the item being cooked.

1. Thin layer of mayo on the surface. It adds thin oily layer and the breading (panko) easily adheres to it.
2. Panko crumbs sautéed and browned with olive oil*. It adds  nice brown color as well as absorbs oil without dripping while air frying.

*When we air fried zucchini (subject to another post) I tried panko crumbs mix with olive oil just before breading (since I ran out of sautéed and browned panko), this did not work as well. The oil did not absorb and distribute evenly. Although the panko browned but not evenly and some oil dripped down on to the bottom of the toaster oven.

Raspberry Muffin Bites ラズベリーマッフィンバイツ

We usually do not go for raspberries not because we do not like the flavor but because they have so many seeds and you cannot avoid them when eating fresh raspberries. My wife picked up fresh raspberries along with strawberries when we went to Whole Foods.  She said that they looked so good she could not resist. So we got fresh raspberry. I tasted them and they were really good but each bite included the grit of the seeds. Given her recent success with the strawberry muffin/cupcake, my wife decided to go for a variation on the theme of “berry puree” starring the raspberries. Specifically muffins from raspberry puree which would strain out the seeds but hopefully leave the raspberry flavor behind. (See picture #2, this was taken before straining out the seeds). The resulting mini muffins/bites were a great success (picture #1). The raspberry flavor came through very strongly without any seeds to worry about.

I ask my wife to complete.

Ingredients
Raspberry reduction:  one large package of fresh raspberries. 
There will be about 1 to 2 cups of raspberry reduction after it is cooked

raspberry cupcake
1 1/2 cups (180g) cake flour
1 cup (198g) granulated sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon table salt
6 tablespoons (85g) butter, at room temperature
1 large egg
1 large egg white
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
3/4 cup raspberry reduction, from above. (This will leave about 1/2 cup of the reduction to use for other dishes)

Directions:
To make the raspberry reduction: Rinse the raspberries. Transfer the berries to a medium pot. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the berries have released their juices and softened, 3 to 5 minutes. 

Using a spoon and a sieve purée the berries off the heat to remove the seeds. Then return the puree to the stove. Bring the mixture to a low boil over medium heat and continue to stir for 6 to 8 minutes. The mixture will become foamy, slightly thick, and darker in color. (This concentrates the flavor). 

Remove the pan from the heat and allow the mixture to cool to room temperature. You should have approximately 1 cup reduction at this point. The berry reduction can be made up to 5 days in advance. If making in advance, store in an airtight container in the refrigerator until ready to use.

To make the cupcakes: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a mini muffin tin with baking cups. In a cuisine art blender fitted with a blade combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Add the butter and mix at low speed until the mixture looks sandy. (Similar to making biscuit dough). Beat in the egg, the extra egg white, and vanilla, then mix until no dry spots of flour remain. Stop the mixer and scrape the bowl and beater attachment(s) as needed; the mixture will be thick.

Add the 3/4 cup strawberry reduction. Continue to mix on low speed until the batter is smooth. Stop to scrape the bowl and then mix again at low speed for 30 seconds. Spoon the batter into the prepared muffin tins. Bake the cupcake bites for 15 to 18 minutes, or until the cake springs back when lightly touched. Remove the cupcakes from the oven, and as soon as you can handle them, remove them from the pan and transfer them to a rack to cool (#3).

These raspberry cupcake bites were a resounding success. The raspberry flavor really came through. This is one of the best ways to enjoy raspberries without having to deal with the seeds.

Sausage Encased in Cookie Dough (Full Moon Pastries)

This is another appetizer based on a  recipe from “Silver Palate Good Times Cookbook”.  In the cookbook it is called “Full Moon Pastries” because of its round shape. But it is nothing similar to Chinese “Moon cake”. This is essentially a piece of sausage and cheese encased in a savory short bread cookie. This combo can’t possibly be bad. Although we did not have “Italian sausage” which is called for in the original recipe, we did have left-over “chicken and apple sausage” which we got from near-by gourmet market. My wife used that. Although this involved a bit of work it turned out to be a nice appetizer/finger food. Besides having it with wine in the evening, we had some for lunch served with green salad and cheese curd my wife made a few days ago (Picture #1).

You can see the sausage and cheese on the cut surface (#2).

Ingredients
For the pastry
3 ounces cream cheese, room temperature
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon salt

For the filling
sausage or any other hard spicy sausage, cut into ½-inch-thick slices (We used chicken apple sausage)
Dijon mustard (or hot sauce) to go on the sausage
slices of cheese to go on top of the sausage

Directions:
Mix the cream cheese and butter with an electric mixer until well blended. Add the flour and salt and mix thoroughly. Knead lightly and shape into a ball. Cut the ball into quarters. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate several hours or overnight (#A). 

The original recipe says to roll each ball into a circle 1/8 inch thick then cut into 2 inch circles used to wrap the sausage top and bottom. This dough is extremely soft and is extremely difficult (i.e. impossible) to roll out into a large circle and then cut out into round pieces on which to place the sausage. We ended up shaping the quarters into ropes slightly larger in diameter than the sausage. Using those ropes we cut off a slice. Using our fingers (because it is way too soft to use a rolling pin) formed it into a flat round piece slightly larger in diameter than the sausage. We placed the sausage on top. Topped the sausage with some mustard (or hot sauce), and a piece of cheese (#B). Using the same finger shaping technique we formed a second piece of the dough to top the sausage, crimping the top and bottom edges together to encase the sausage (#C).

Preheat oven to 375°F. Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper. Bake until golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes (#D). 

As mentioned earlier this dough is extremely soft. We tried cooking the assembled pieces in the oven fryer but the crust was too soft. It disintegrated and melted into the grate before it cooked. So we put the next batch in the refrigerator for a while to firm up the crust then baked it flat on a cookie sheet in the regular toaster oven. That worked. We also recommend using a cheese like smoked gouda that doesn’t melt entirely. The cheddar cheese we used on one of the batches melted entirely into the dough. 

These are very nice appetizers. The crust is like a soft savory butter cookie. The sausage provides nice texture and flavor. They were best using a hot sauce rather than just mustard. They are a fair amount of work but they are worth it.

Goat Cheese Popover ゴートチーズ ポップオーバー

This is another one based on a recipe from “Silver Palate Good Times Cook Book”.  This is basically a variation of  “Yorkshire pudding”. My wife said that “back in the day” she used to make traditional Yorkshire pudding from the holiday roast drippings. Although Yorkshire pudding is not a popular item served at restaurants these days, we used to have it regularly at a brunch we attended with a friend of ours at a local club/restaurant.  When my wife saw this recipe, it called to her because it is a mini version of the old time favorite and goat cheese is involved. Since these types of recipes can be finicky and we were not sure it would work. To our delight it did! It puffed up nicely and the center was hollow with a nice eggy crust and goat cheese inside on the bottom (picture #1 and #3). This is a nice hors d'oeuvre as suggested in the recipe. I will ask my wife to continue.

Ingredients: (makes about 30 to 35 mini-bites)
6 eggs
1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon dried thyme
Pinch ground nutmeg
2 cups milk
½ cup heavy or whipping cream
4 ounces herbed chèvre, cut into 18 to 20 piece

Ingredients (1/2 recipe. makes 16 to 17 mini-bites)
3 eggs 
3/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour 
1/2 teaspoon salt 
1/8  teaspoon freshly ground black pepper (or cayenne)
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme 
Pinch ground nutmeg 
1 cup milk
1/4 cup cream
2 ounces herbed chèvre, cut into pieces

Directions:
Preheat oven to 400°F. Line mini muffin tin with paper cups.

Place the eggs, flour, salt, pepper, thyme, and nutmeg in a blender. Blend until well combined, about 10 seconds. Scrape down the sides of the container. With the blender running, slowly pour in the milk and cream and blend until smooth. (It will have a very watery consistency). Place the prepared muffin tins in the oven to warm slightly. Remove the warmed tins and fill each halfway with batter. Place a piece of the cheese in the center of each cup (#1). Pour in the remaining batter to fill each cup two-thirds. Bake the popovers 20 to 25 minutes or until puffed and golden (#2). Serve immediately (#4). 

These were unexpected perfection. Nice and crunchy with the pleasant taste of the goat cheese. Perfect as a little bite with wine as an appetizer.