Goat Cheese Popover ゴートチーズ ポップオーバー

This is another one based on a recipe from “Silver Palate Good Times Cook Book”.  This is basically a variation of  “Yorkshire pudding”. My wife said that “back in the day” she used to make traditional Yorkshire pudding from the holiday roast drippings. Although Yorkshire pudding is not a popular item served at restaurants these days, we used to have it regularly at a brunch we attended with a friend of ours at a local club/restaurant.  When my wife saw this recipe, it called to her because it is a mini version of the old time favorite and goat cheese is involved. Since these types of recipes can be finicky and we were not sure it would work. To our delight it did! It puffed up nicely and the center was hollow with a nice eggy crust and goat cheese inside on the bottom (picture #1 and #3). This is a nice hors d'oeuvre as suggested in the recipe. I will ask my wife to continue.

Ingredients: (makes about 30 to 35 mini-bites)
6 eggs
1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon dried thyme
Pinch ground nutmeg
2 cups milk
½ cup heavy or whipping cream
4 ounces herbed chèvre, cut into 18 to 20 piece

Ingredients (1/2 recipe. makes 16 to 17 mini-bites)
3 eggs 
3/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour 
1/2 teaspoon salt 
1/8  teaspoon freshly ground black pepper (or cayenne)
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme 
Pinch ground nutmeg 
1 cup milk
1/4 cup cream
2 ounces herbed chèvre, cut into pieces

Directions:
Preheat oven to 400°F. Line mini muffin tin with paper cups.

Place the eggs, flour, salt, pepper, thyme, and nutmeg in a blender. Blend until well combined, about 10 seconds. Scrape down the sides of the container. With the blender running, slowly pour in the milk and cream and blend until smooth. (It will have a very watery consistency). Place the prepared muffin tins in the oven to warm slightly. Remove the warmed tins and fill each halfway with batter. Place a piece of the cheese in the center of each cup (#1). Pour in the remaining batter to fill each cup two-thirds. Bake the popovers 20 to 25 minutes or until puffed and golden (#2). Serve immediately (#4). 

These were unexpected perfection. Nice and crunchy with the pleasant taste of the goat cheese. Perfect as a little bite with wine as an appetizer.

Grilled Tofu-puff with Egg Yolk Miso 柚子胡椒入り玉味噌の焼き油揚げ

I made many variations of the Izakaya dish of grilled and stuffed deep fried tofu pouches or “abura-age 油揚げ” previously but I have not made it for some time.  This time, two extra egg yolks were available from my wife’s  baking projects and I remembered a Youtube episode of a grilled abura-age dish stuffed with egg yolks mixed with miso (which is called “Tama Miso 玉味噌” ) and seasoned with yuzu kosho* 柚子胡椒.

*It is a mixture of salt, chopped peel of a Japanese citrus called "yuzu" 柚子 and chili pepper (usually green chili pepper but it could also be red chili pepper). It is available through Japanese grocery stores or from Amazon.>

“Tama-Miso” is fairly common condiment/sauce in Japan with various variations. It can be used as a grilling sauce called “denegaku 田楽” on tofu and eggplant, dipping sauce (for cucumber sticks). I did not follow any particular recipe to make the “Tama Miso”.

I could have grilled the final product in the toaster oven but I cooked it in a frying pan (which is easier). Just grilled abura-age can be a good drinking snack (with grated daikon and soy sauce) but the addition of  various stuffings make it even more interesting and better. I had made and posted different variations of abura-age dishes including ones stuffed with cheese, nori with suriracha, gyoza stuffing and even nattou.

This rendition is a bit different from anything I posted before because of the use of “Tama Miso” and “Yuzu kosho”.  The rich favors of the tama miso and mild spiciness and citrus flavors, worked very well encased in crunchy grilled abura-age skin. I served this with steamed brocollini dressed in mustard soy sauce. This was a perfect small dish for the “home” Izakaya.

For “Tama Miso” with Yuzu Kosho:
Ingredients: (makes about 1/3 cup)
2 egg yolks
2 tsp sugar
1 tsp. or more of yuzu kosho (to taste)
3 tbs white miso (I used Saikyo miso which is a sweet white miso) or a combination of red and white miso
1 tbs mirin
2-3 tbs sake

Directions:
In a small sauce pan, add all the ingredients except for the sake and mix well until smooth. Add the sake and mix so that the consistency is loose like pancake batter. Place the pan on a low flame and stir constantly until the egg yolks are cooked and reduced to the consistency of the original miso before you added the sake. Let it cool. It will further thicken (#3 in the composite picture). It will keep at least a week in the refrigerator.

Assembly and cooking of the stuffed abura-age:
Thaw the abura-age if frozen (#1). Using a sharp paring knife, cut along three sides and open like a book (#2). Using a spatula, smear the tama miso (#3) on one side of the open abura-age (#4). Close and make sure both sides are adhering well. Place it in a dry frying pan on medium low flame and cook until lightly brown (a few minutes) turn it over and cook the other side a few more minutes. Cut into 4 pieces and serve warm.

This is a very satisfying snack. It has a nice crunch and toasty flavor from the cooked abura-age. The inside provides a mellow richness with a little spiciness from the yuzu kosho. Although it is a very light mouthful, it is full of a complex range of flavors. Great with either red wine or sake.

Air Fried Eggplant エアーフライ茄子

This is another example of us playing with our new toy; the air frier. This time the object of the fun is eggplant. I used “Japanese” eggplant; the light purple, long in length variety not the classic Japanese eggplant. Even though it is not the traditional Japanese eggplant variety, we like it better than the regular American variety. This turned out to be a great dish. It is better than the deep fried version since it is not cooked in oil so the eggplant does not absorb a lot of oil. (The only oil the eggplant comes in contact with is the small amount used to crisp up the panko coating.) The crust was light and crunchy and the eggplant itself was fairly soft but not oily at all. The air fried eggplant was a great success. The surface of the eggplant was crunchy and the center was soft and hot. Since the eggplant did not absorb a lot of oil, it was much lighter. I served it with air fried chicken.  The combination of air fried chicken wings and eggplant was a perfect dish (picture #1). I did not use any particular recipe but followed my instincts particularly on how to prepared the panko bread crumbs before breading the eggplant.

This is not a recipe per se but just a note to myself so that I can reproduce it.

Ingredients:
1 Japanese eggplant cut into 1 inch thick medallions (This one was fairly long and made 10 rounds about 1 inch thick)
Seasoned flour (1/4 cup AP flour, 1/2 tsp salt, 1/2 tsp onion powder, 1/4 tsp cayenne pepper, the amount of seasonings is to your liking)
1/2 cup panko
2 tbs olive oil
3 tbs grated parmesan cheese
1 egg beaten plus several tbs water

Directions:
Add 1 tbs olive oil in a frying pan on medium flame. Add the panko and stir until the panko is lightly browned. Let it cool. Add remaining olive oil and the parmesan cheese to the browned panko and mix well. Set aside.

Place the seasoned flour in a gallon Ziploc bag with the eggplant. Shake to coat all the eggplant surface with the seasoned flour. Shake off excess flour and dip each eggplant coin in the egg water to coat all sides and then bread it with the panko mixture, pressing both sides firmly. Place in the air frying basket with space between them (picture #2).

Air fry at 450F for 10-15 minutes. The panko breading further darkens to a nice golden brown (picture #3). No need to turn it over during the cooking.

This is the best way to prepare this style of eggplant. Not only does it taste like perfectly fried eggplant (sans the oil) but the left overs crisp up very nicely when re-air-fried for a few minutes.

Air Fried Chicken Wings エアーフライ手羽

This is another air frier episode. When we recently made the “teba gyoza 手羽餃子” variation with leftovers from the meatloaf my wife made, the skin browned unevenly. We wanted to try it again to see if we could make the browning of the skin on the wings more even. The package of chicken wings we got was labeled “cut pieces” and “contained both flats and drumettes”. We wrongly assumed the “flats” and “drumettes” were connected with only the wing tips cut off. But it turned out the flat and drumette pieces were cut apart. This makes stuffing the chicken wings unfeasible. In order to stuff the drumettes, it is necessary for the flats and drumettes to be connected because if they are cut apart both ends of the drumette are open and the stuffing will come out.  So, I just made unstuffed air fried chicken wings. I suppose I could have just air fried them but I decided to marinate them in a mixture of mayonnaise, ponzu shoyu and yuzu kosho which, somehow, came to my mind. I’ve used this combination, before as a dressing for “renkon” lotus root salad but this time, I used the concoction as a marinade. The marinade made the chicken meat very moist and tender. The surface layer of mayonnaise made the skin brown as if the wings were fried in oil (picture #1). The yuzu kosho added a slight spiciness and citrus flavor. As you can see both sections browned evenly. So we declare this an unqualified success, both because it browned evenly and tasted great!

Ingredients:

Chicken drumetts and flats (in our package, 4 each were included)

3 tbs mayonnaise

1 tbs ponzu soy sauce

1/2 tsp or more yuzu kosho

Directions:

In a Ziploc bag, add the chicken wings and the marinade ingredients. Massage well so that the marinade is well mixed and chicken parts are well coated. Remove the air as much as possible and close the bag. Let it marinade a few hours in the refrigerator.

I arranged the wings in the roasting pan that had a metal grate. I made sure the chicken parts were well spaced (picture #2). I air fried them at 450 F for 15 minutes. I then turned them over and cooked for another 5 minutes.

This was a great finger food. They went fast. We started with 2 pieces each but ended up eating everything.

Air Fried stuffed Chicken Wings エアーフライ手羽餃子

“Teba Gyoza 手羽餃子” is a quintessential Izakaya dish. “Teba” means “chicken wing” and “gyoza” means dumpling stuffed with vegetables and meat usually ground pork. This dish is a hybrid of grilled chicken wing (“yakitori” 焼き鳥) and gyoza. The bone (humerus) of the chicken wing drumette is removed leaving the skin intact. The resulting cavity is filled with gyoza stuffing. It is then grilled like any other “Yakitori”. Hence the combination of teba-yakitori and gyoza. It is reputed to have been invented by an izakaya in Hakata 博多, Fukuoka 福岡. Some years ago, I often made teba gyoza several different ways including cooked in the Weber grill and baked in the toaster oven.  We used to frequently make chicken wings because they were inexpensive and a fun way to eat chicken. Then, for a while they became very expensive and we got out of the habit of using chicken wings to make yakitori or “teba gyoza”.

We decided to make stuffed chicken wings again because our old toaster oven was not working well and we got a new one with an air fryer function. We thought one of the items we would like try was our old time favorite of chicken wings. I thought about making “teba gyoza” using gyoza stuffing but since my wife recently made a meat loaf I decided to stuff the wings with left over meatloaf instead of making gyoza stuffing, This was a qualified success. It was qualified because although the skin crisped up better than when the wings are just baked in a regular oven they browned unevenly.  Since the drumette part of the wing with the stuffing in it was thicker it was positioned closer to the heating element and got much darker than the rest of the wing. Although we used left over meat loaf  instead of the traditional gyoza stuffing it was still quite good. I served this with air-fried rounds of eggplant (subject of a future post) and sautéed oyster mushrooms (#1).

This a cross section view of the drumette showing the meat stuffing (picture #2). As mentioned, the skin over the drumette got a bit too high done (backened).

This shows the overall appearance of chicken wings (picture #3). Next time, I can remove the wing tips to make the stuffed part of the chicken wings lie a bit more evenly/flat to prevent uneven browning of the skin.

Ingredients:
Any number of chicken wings
meat filling either gyoza or meatloaf

Directions:
Remove the bone from the drumette leaving the skin intact. Stuff with the meat stuffing and close with a toothpick. (I did not add any oil or spices to the wings because they already have a large amount of natural fat to baste the meat while cooking.)

Cook in the air frier at 450 degrees for 15 minutes. Turn over and cook an additional 5 minutes.

These were again the fun way to eat chicken. The skin was crispy. The meat was juicy and tender. The added stuffing, in this case the meatloaf, was very flavorful. Although the stuffed portion got a bit high done it was still very good. We will be bringing this old favorite back onto the menu.