Tomato-Spinach Roulade Bread トマトとほうれん草のルラード

This is another one of my wife’s baking projects. This is based on a recipe in the “Silver Palate Good Times Cookbook”. When I made “no-cook tomato sauce” and “marinara sauce” using “Cento San Marzano Tomatoes” for Neapolitan-ish pizza, we ended up with extra tomato sauce. Since the bread recipe called for canned Italian tomatoes and we had left over tomato sauce made with canned Italian tomatoes, my wife saw an opportunity and asked if she could use the left-over sauces. I, of course, said “By all means”.  This is a very complicated bread recipe and I would not even consider trying it but my wife is not deterred by complex baking recipes. In any case, the pic shows the bread she produced. This is a very soft tender bread with lots of flavors. The spinach and ricotta cheese spread does provide a nice color and texture contrast to the surrounding bread but it didn’t bring much additional flavor to the show. In my humble opinion, the bread could be made with the marinara as a simple loaf omitting the spinach spread, especially since this would make this bread much easier to make. (Wifey’s comment: In my humble opinion I agree.)

Here comes my wife to continue.

Ingredients: 
For Bread
14 ounces (half 28-ounce can) Italian plum tomatoes (We used the marinara sauce we made for pizza)
2 packages active dry yeast
1 tablespoon sugar
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tablespoon dried basil (We didn’t include this)
1 tablespoon dried oregano  (We didn’t include this)
1/2 teaspoon celery seeds (We didn’t include this)
2 teaspoons salt
1 cup grated Swiss, mozzarella, or Fontina cheese (We used mozzarella)
5 to 6 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

For spread
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 small yellow onion, chopped
2 cups finely chopped fresh spinach (We precooked the spinach)
½ cup Mascarpone or ricotta cheese (We used ricotta)
1 tablespoon Marsala
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Directions:
For bread 
In a saucepan sautee the onions and garlic. Purée the tomatoes with their liquid in a blender. Add to the onions and garlic, Stir in the sugar and salt. Then add the grated cheese and stir to mix and melt the cheese. If you are using them stir in the basil, oregano, and celery seed. (We just used the left-over marinara sauce we made for pizza. We used the same amount as the tomatoes called for in the original recipe.) Cool to room temperature. In the bowl of a stand mixer combine the yeast and 3 cups of flour to start. With the machine running add the tomato mixture. Stir in enough additional flour, 1 cup at a time, to make a firm dough. Knead in the mixer for 7 to 10 minutes. Turn out onto a floured surface and continue kneading until the dough is smooth and elastic, adding more flour if necessary (#1). 

Place the dough in a buttered large bowl and turn to coat with butter. Cover with a damp towel and let rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk, 1 to 1½ hours.

For the spread
While the dough is rising, melt the butter in a medium-size saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the chopped onion and sauté until translucent. Stir in the spinach and cook 5 more minutes. (We precooked the spinach). Stir in the cheese, Marsala, lemon juice, and salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate covered until firm enough to spread.

Assembly:
Punch the dough down and divide it in half. Roll each half into a rectangle about ¾ inch thick and spread with the spinach filling (#2). Roll up each rectangle like a jelly roll (#3) and place on greased baking sheets. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise 1 hour.
Preheat oven to 375°F. 
Bake until the loaves are lightly browned (#4) and sound hollow when lightly thumped, 40 to 50 minutes. Allow to cool on the baking sheets for 10 minutes.  
Turn out onto wire racks to cool completely.



The bread had a very soft tender texture. The flavor was very complex melding together all the flavors of the tomato/marinara sauce and cheeses. The filling made a nice texture contrast but despite the many varied flavors that went into it, particularly the marsala, their flavor didn’t really come through. It is a very unique (in a good way) bread.

Neapolitan-ish pizza ナポリ風ピザ

I have been making  home-style pizza for some time first using the regular oven and a pizza stone, then, more recently, using the “Pizzaiolo” pizza oven. Although, in general, we like the pizza I make, I am always looking for ways to improve it. Recently, we got a new pizza cookbook from King Arthur called  “The Book of Pizza”. This is quite an encyclopedia on pizza. It covers pizza from classic Neapolitan and other Italian styles to American regional versions. This inspired me to do some experiments/improvements.

With is experiment version I had three goals in mind. #1. try to make the dough/crust as close as I could make it to “authentic” Neapolitan style. #2. determine wether Italian canned plum tomatoes (I got “Cento San Marzano” canned tomatoes) are better than the domestic canned ones? If so, are they worth the cost? #3. Compare “no-cook” tomato sauce (to make a classic “Pizza Margherita”) to the Marinara sauce I make using the same tomatoes for both sauces. (Rest assured that I am not going to make a classic Neapolitan cheese-less “Pizza Marinara”. We like cheese on our pizza.)

I made a pizza half with the  no-cook tomato sauce (left side) and the other half with the Marinara sauce (right side) (picture #1).  I did this so that both sides are identical except for the sauce. For both, I used low-moisture Mozzarella cheese and fresh basil from our window-sill garden.

It appeared I succeeded in making classic “cornicione” on the edge of the crust (pictures #1 and #2).

Just for my own record of what I cooked, I will post the recipe.

Pizza dough:

Ingredients: (makes 4 small pizza with dough weighing about 215 grams each with hydration of about 65%)

520 grams “00” flour (from King Arthur)

340 grams water

8 grams of salt

1/4 tsp active yeast

Directions:

In a food processor fitted with a kneading blade, add the flour, salt and yeast and mix. While the blade is turning on low speed, add the water in a steady thin stream until a dough ball forms above the blade. Let it stand for 5-10 minutes (for even distribution of moisture). Turn the food processor to low speed again to knead for another minute or two. Turn the dough out onto a flour dusted kneading board and knead for a few minutes. Then make the dough into a tight ball. 

In a large enough mixing bowl, add a small amount of olive oil to thinly coat the inside. Add the dough ball, turn to coat all the surface with the olive oil. Cover the bowl with a plastic wrap and let it ferment (bulk fermentation) for about 1 hour (I use a Brod and Tylor bread proofer at 86F). 

Fold and deflate the dough and make 4 dough balls (about 215 gram each). As with the bulk fermentation add a small amount of oil to a bowl and coat each of the 4 dough balls with the olive oil. (I generally use the bowl in which I did the initial bulk fermentation to save on the number of bowls that have to be washed.) Then put each ball individually into a small Ziploc bag. Remove as much air as possible and seal the bag. I place the Ziploc bags in the refrigerator. I will keep the dough at least over night or a couple of days. After that if I do not use the dough, I move it to the freezer.

The next day, I take the Ziploc bags with dough balls in them out of the refridgerator about 1 hour before cooking to warm them up to room temperature.

Sauces:

1. No-cook pizza sauce (“No-cook”  is not quite accurate since the tomatoes were cooked during the canning process but we do not cook it):

Ingredients and directions:

Canned tomatoes, hand torn or cut, drained. (Retain the juice that was in the can.) Place the tomatoes in a cylinder-shaped container and blend using an immersion blender. Add salt to taste. (The Cento brand we used contained sea salt and basil leaves so we did not add salt).

2. Marinara sauce:

Ingredients: 

28oz can of  Cento San Marzano tomatoes, hand crushed and liquid separated but retained 

1 medium shallot (or small onion), finely diced

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

3 tbs olive oil

1/4 tsp dried oregano

1 bay leaf

Salt to taste

Directions:

Add the olive oil in a sauce pan on medium-low flame. When heated, add the shallots sauté for a few minutes. Then add the garlic and sauté until fragrant. Add the tomatoes and the juice reserved from the can, oregano and bay leaf. Simmer for 20-30 minutes. Taste and season with salt if needed. (When I use the domestic canned tomatoes, I usually add some sugar and baking soda to compensate for the tomatoes excess acidity. This was not needed at all for the Italian canned tomatoes.)

Assembly and cooking:

I assembled the pizza as usual but payed particular attention not to deflate the edge.

I cooked it in “Neapolitan pizza” mode (it is called “Wood Fired” or about 700F) on the Pizzaiolo oven for 2 minutes.

We reach three conclusions concerning the goals I mentioned earlier:

#1. Compared to domestic canned tomatoes, the Italian Cento brand canned tomatoes we tried were much better. It is worth the higher cost.

#2.  Both of us liked the marinara sauce side of the pizza better than the no cook tomato sauce side. The marinara sauce has much more flavor. Although classic “Pizza Marinara” has no cheese, as you can see in the picture we broke with tradition because we like cheese on the pizza.

#3. The crust was soft, pillowy, and chewy. Did we like it?? We’re not sure. This sort of confirms what we said previously that “00” flour without oil in the dough was too chewy for us.  Actually, we preferred the left-over pizza we made for this experiment reheated in a toaster oven because the crust became much crisper. Lesson learned? We like a bit more crispy crust.  I may try to make New York style next.

Blueberry Cream Cheese on Blueberry Muffin ブルーベリーチーズクリームのせブルーベリーマフィン

We are in local (meaning North America) blueberry season. We are getting quite good blueberries. So, besides enjoying them fresh or with yogurt, we are making the usual blueberry items such as blueberry pancakes, and blueberry muffins. My wife uses both whole and puree of blueberry to enhance the blueberry flavors of the blueberry baked goods she makes. One such example is the blueberry muffin shown on the right in picture #1. We call that muffin “double blueberry” because the batter includes both whole blueberries and blueberry puree. One of her recent innovations was blueberry cream cheese spread. Which, when spread on the double blueberry muffin as shown in picture #1 on the left triples the blueberry flavors. 

The picture #2 is a close-up of the blueberry cream cheese spread. She made blueberry purée and then mixed it into cream cheese. I will ask my wife to continue.

Ingredients:
1 package of fresh blueberries (amount is actually arbitrary)
1 8 oz. package of Philadelphia Cream cheese

Directions:
Put the fresh blueberries in a saucepan cover and heat on very low heat until the blueberries burst open releasing juice. Puree using a hand held immersion blender. Set aside to cool.
When the puree has cooled add the cream cheese to a mixer and mix until smooth. Add the blueberry puree. (The amount is arbitrary and to taste. The more puree added the stronger the blueberry taste). Mix until the cream cheese and puree are completely blended.

This is extremely easy to make. My wife got the idea for this because we had gotten some commercially made tubs of blueberry cream cheese. When my wife tasted them she thought they were pretty good but we were at the height of blueberry season why not try to make some blueberry cream cheese ourselves using fresh blueberries. This made a very nice spread to use on anything; pancakes, muffins, or bread. The main thing we discovered was that it takes time for the blueberry flavor to come through. When we first made it we could hardly taste any blueberry flavor and initially we were disappointed. But several days later the blueberry flavor was nicely pronounced making the experiment well worthwhile.

Garlic Chive and Cucumber Salad ニラとキュウリの和え物

Many years ago, we grew garlic chives in our herb garden which was a mistake. For one thing, the garlic chives were a very fibrous and tough. No matter how long we cooked them they were basically inedible. For another thing they grew like weeds and while the flowers were very pretty the garlic chives were rapidly out of control. They have very deep roots and are extremely difficult to weed. In desperation, we asked our gardener if he would weed the herb garden. When he saw that garlic chives were involved he immediately raised the price he would charge for the job. Even now, the garlic chives are still coming up.

Despite all this I yearned for the distinctive taste garlic chives contribute to a dish so recently, we’ve been getting them from Weee (much less weeding involved.)  I have used these blanched garlic chives, for “ohitashi おひたし” with soy sauce-based  dressing or for another garlic chives dish with grilled tofu-puff or “abura-age 油揚げ”.  This time, however, we got the garlic chives from “Suzuki Farm”. This happened in a round about way because I saw that Suzuki Farm offered Japanese cabbage. Previously, the closest thing we could get to Japanese cabbage was Taiwanese cabbage from Weee. So I decided to get some of the Japanese variety from Suzuki Farm but I needed some other items to round out the order and included garlic chives.  In any case, I blanched half of the garlic chives I got and used them to make a salad of garlic chives and Japanese cucumber with a seasoned abura-age garnish. I used a dressing made of mayo and yuzu kosho  柚子胡椒マヨネーズ. The combination and yuzu kosho mayo worked. This is a nice small dish that was just the right way to highlight the distinct flavor of the these garlic chives and above all else they were tender. 

Ingredients: (amounts are arbitrary but this is about 2 servings)
1/2 bundle of garlic chive
1/2 Japanese cucumber
1/2 Abura-age fried tofu puff seasoned (optional)

Dressing:
1 tbs mayonnaise
1 tsp yuzu juice
1/2 tsp yuzu kosho

Directions:
Blanch the garlic chive for 30 seconds, place it in ice water to cool, squeeze out moisture and cut into 1 inch length
Slice the cucumber thinly, salt it and mix, let it stand for 5 minutes and squeeze out moisture
Place the garlic chive and the cucumber in a small bowl add the dressing and top it with the abura-age if using.

Air Fried Zucchini エアーフライズッキニ

Since we had a great success air frying eggplants, my wife suggested we air fry some zucchini. I essentially cooked them exactly like the eggplants and as expected they were great. I started with 15 minutes of air frying. The zucchini was hot but still a bit too crunchy. I did another 15 minutes (Picture #1) which was good but now it was a bit too soft for me. Maybe, a total of 20 minutes would work better.

Ingredients:
3 zucchini cut into 1 inch thick medallions (This one was fairly long and made 15 rounds about 1 inch thick)
Seasoned flour (1/4 cup AP flour, 1/2 tsp salt, 1/2 tsp onion powder, 1/4 tsp cayenne pepper, the amount of seasonings is to your liking)
1/2 cup panko
2 tbs olive oil
3 tbs grated parmesan cheese (optional)
1 egg beaten plus several tbs water

Directions:
Add 1 tbs olive oil in a frying pan on medium flame. Add the panko and stir until the panko is lightly browned. Let it cool. Add remaining olive oil and the parmesan cheese to the browned panko and mix well. Set aside.
Place the seasoned flour in a gallon Ziploc bag with the zucchini. Shake to coat all the eggplant surface with the seasoned flour. Shake off excess flour and dip each zucchini coin in the egg water to coat all sides and then bread it with the panko mixture, pressing both sides firmly. Place in the air frying basket with space between them (picture #2).

Since I breaded chicken tenders just before I breading the zucchini, I ran out of the previously browned panko. So, I just quickly mixed the panko and olive oil together without browning it in a frying pan like I did with the previous batch.  I used this “instant” breading on the remaining half of the zucchini shown as the pale ones on the left in the picture.

When, the zucchini finished cooking both the previously browned (right two) and “instant” un-browned (left two) panko breaded zucchini browned nicely (picture #3). The main difference was that the un-browned panko side developed uneven dark spots which I suspect must have been due to an uneven oil distribution. In addition, some oil dripped down onto the bottom crumb tray which did not happen when using previously browned panko. So, it appears the oil in the panko needs to be absorbed evenly and pre-sautéing in oil appears to work better.