Lemon Ricotta Cake レモン、リッコタチーズケーキ

This is another one of my wife’s baking projects. She saw this recipe on the King Arthur web site. She thought the use of “00” flour, (which I use to make pizza dough), was intriguing. Being the generous man I am, I gave her access my stash of  “00” flour. This was a good investiment on my part, the cake was very light and fluffy and the “Fiori di Sicillia” flavoring gave a nice lemony flavor. The cake was not too sweet and perfect for our dessert.

Ingredients:
Cake
1 1/2 cups (174g) “00” flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon table salt
8 tablespoons (113g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup (198g) granulated sugar
zest of 1 lemon
3 large eggs, separated
1 cup (227g) ricotta cheese, whole preferred
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/8 teaspoon “Fiori di Sicilia”, optional

Glaze (We did not use)
2 tablespoons (28g) lemon juice
3 tablespoons (43g) coarse sparkling sugar or 3 tablespoons (34g) turbinado sugar
1/2 cup (57g) confectioners' sugar

Directions:
Preheat the oven to 400°F with a rack in the center. Line the bottom of an 8" cake pan with parchment and grease the bottom and sides.

To make the cake: In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the flat beater, beat together the butter, sugar, and lemon zest on medium speed until light and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Scrape down the bowl. Add the egg yolks, and beat until combined, about 1 minute. Add the ricotta, extracts, and dry ingredients and beat on low until no dry streaks remain.

In a medium bowl, whisk the whites until very frothy, 1 to 2 minutes (no need to reach soft peaks).

Scrape down the sides of the bowl with the batter and pour in the egg whites. Mix on medium speed, scraping down the sides as needed, until the batter becomes smooth (it will be quite gloppy at first). Finish mixing by hand if necessary to make sure everything is incorporated.

Transfer the thick batter to the prepared pan and smooth it into an even layer. (A small offset spatula is a helpful tool here.)

Bake the lemon ricotta cake for 20 to 25 minutes, until deeply golden, then tent with foil and bake for 8 to 10 minutes. The cake is done when it’s set, has pulled away from the sides of the pan slightly, and springs back when lightly pressed. Remove the cake from the oven and let it cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. (#2)

If using the glaze: In a small bowl or liquid measuring cup, whisk together the lemon juice and sugars until no dry confectioners’ sugar remains.

Turn out the lemon ricotta cake onto a wire rack and set the rack atop a plate or parchment-lined baking sheet. Pour the glaze evenly over the top of the cake, encouraging it to reach all the way to the edges.

Let the lemon ricotta cake cool until the glaze is set, about 30 minutes. Serve it slightly warm or at room temperature, with macerated fruit if desired.

This is one of the most elegant cakes we’ve made. It is extremely light, slightly sweet with a rich lemon flavor. The method of using the mixer to stir the egg whites into the batter was a first. My wife was surprised at how well it worked and that the egg whites did not deflate. She said she will keep this method in mind for other recipes using whipped egg whites.

Pan-fried Grits Cake フライパンで焼いたグリッツケーキ

This is an off-shoot of the “Cheese grits casserole” my wife made. Realizing these grits cakes were basically the same texture as traditional cheese grits just shaped differently she got the idea they could be removed from the ramekins they were cooked in, cut into pieces and pan fried. Initially I had doubts the  process she suggested would be possible but as shown in picture #1 we managed it. They were firm enough for her to remove them from the ramekins. Then she asked me to slice the cakes into rounds. Using a thin long fillet knife coated with oil, I was able to slice them (picture #2). To pan fry the rounds, I first dusted both sides with flour and then fried them. This added a nice crunchy crust and they were better than the original form. We had this as a light lunch with a salad made of baby arugula, green beans (pre-steamed), skinned Campari tomato topped with home made cheese curd my wife made, dressed with honey-mustard dressing.

Next time, we’ll probably prepare them this way by cooking them in a baking dish or a small sheet pan so that it is easier to cut into squares for pan-frying.

Beautiful spring season. The iris are in full bloom. What a joy!

Mini Cheese Grits Casserole ミニグリッツキャセロール

Recently we purchased a box of grits to make a dish of shrimp and grits. But the quantity of grits we used to make that dish didn’t make a dent in the large amount of dried grits remaining in the box. So my wife took it upon herself to find a way to use up some of it.  She found this recipe at Southern Living web site. The original recipe was for a make-ahead breakfast dish for a large crowd. The idea was to basically put the dish together the day before so the next morning all that had to be done was to cook it in the oven. After looking at the quantity of ingredients called for in the recipe we decided that we were definitely not feeding a crowd that big so we significantly reduced the the size of the recipe. Also, since we were not going to be eating it for breakfast we saw no need to make it up a day ahead and store it in the fridge overnight.  We had it as a lunch with salad which included my wife’s home-made mango chutney seasoned cheese curd. This turned out to be a variation of standard cheese grits but in a more elegant individual presentation. It was quite good although next time we thought we could reduced the amount of cheese a bit.

Ingredients
2 1/4 cups broth 

3/4 cup uncooked quick-cooking grits
1 teaspoons salt, (divided, 1/2 in the grits, 1/2 in the egg mixture) 
1/2 cup half-and-half (or buttermilk)
1/2 teaspoon dijon mustard
1/8 teaspoon cayenne 
1 large egg
4-6 ounces sharp Cheddar cheese, shredded
several teaspoons of sauteed shallots and mushrooms.  

Directions
Bring broth to a boil in a medium saucepan over high. Add grits and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Reduce heat to medium-low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until grits are thickened and tender, about 5 minutes. Remove pan from heat; cover and let stand 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, whisk together half-and-half, mustard, pepper, eggs, egg yolk, and remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Stir in grits and cheese until cheese is melted. Divide mixture evenly among the ramekins. (We used 4 small and 3 medium sized ramekins as shown in pic #2). Preheat oven to 350°F. Bake in preheated oven until puffed and edges are set, about 20 to 25 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes.

These were quite good. Lots of rich flavor with the cheese and shallot mushroom mixture adding a lot of depth. The cayenne pepper added a nice bright note. My wife noted that next time she would just make it in a baking dish and then cut it into square pieces for serving. What ever the presentation this makes a mighty fine “side” for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. 

Duck Leg Confit アヒルのもも肉のコンフィ

My wife found several packages of frozen duck fat in the freezer which we had used to make confit of duck legs some years ago.  Although we removed any solids from the fat after use and promptly froze it, it was getting old. So my wife issued an edict: “either we use the fat to make duck confit or we throw it away”. Fortuitously I noticed that Weee had frozen duck legs on sale so I ordered them.  They came as a  package of two legs and we were “in business”. As we did before, we used a slow cooker for the confit rather than the more traditional low-temp oven method.  Since there were only two legs, we used a small slow cooker we had and they fit just perfectly and the duck fat just covered them.

The confit process finished in close to 4 hours. Although we read that the confit legs could be stored in the fridge in the congealed fat for up to a month we didn’t have to do that because we ate them that night for dinner. I removed them from the liquid fat and browned the skin just before we ate them. The meat was so tender, flavorful and came off the bone easily. The skin was nicely crisp. I sautéed  green beans and broccoli (both pre-steamed) seasoned with salt and pepper. For carbohydrate, we served a piece of the mini-baguette I baked some days ago (it was frozen and then toasted). With a good Cab, this was nice dinner plate.

There is nothing particularly different from the previous post, I repeat it just for our convenience sake.

Ingredients:
2 duck legs, frozen and thawed
2 cups (or enough to submerge the legs) rendered duck fat
1/2 tsp dried thyme (or sprigs of fresh rosemary or thyme if you have them, (our poor rosemary in the herb garden did not survive the hash winter we had))
1 tps Kosher salt
3-4 cloves of garlic, crushed

Directions:
The night before, season the duck. In a sealable container just snugly fit two legs (or how many legs you are using), sprinkle half of the salt and dried thyme on the bottom, place the legs in the container without over lapping,  add salt and thyme on the skin side add the crushed garlic cloves, cover and refrigerate over night.

Next day, turn on the slow cooker to low and add the duck fat (in our case frozen blocks) until just melted (1 hour or a bit more). 

Remove any excess salt and herbs from the surface of the legs and submerge into the duck fat without overlapping, transfer the garlic to the duck fat and let it cook for 3-4 hours until the meat retracts from the bone

Remove the legs and brown the skin in the frying pan (without oil since the surface of the legs are coated with rendered duck fat) for several minutes and turn over and cook for one more minute. I added the broccoli and green beans in the same pan and seasoned with salt and pepper.

The duct fat was perfectly OK and the confit was perfect but we decided to put the duck fat to a well deserved rest. Next time we make duck leg confit we will have to get fresh duck fat.

Stir-steamed “Kimpira gobo” Burdock-root 蒸し炒め金平牛蒡

This is a variation of the ubiquitous braised burdock root dish “kimpira gobo” 金平牛蒡. The most common way to make this dish is to first stir-fry the vegetables in oil. Optionally this would be followed by adding a small amount of water to the pan and letting it steam with the lid on, then seasoning with soy sauce and mirin.  One thing I did not like about this method was the way the oil splattered when the burdock was being stir-fried. I recently saw on YouTube that instead of stir frying in oil, the same effect could be achieved by “stir-frying” in water or by “stir-steaming”; i.e. “mushi-itame 蒸し炒め. Although I did not have the exact recipe, I improvised making it the way I thought would work and the dish came out really well. Later I re-found the YouTube episode from which I got the ideal of stir-steaming and it turns out I did almost exactly what was suggested in the video. I think I will make kimpira using the stir-steamed method from now on.

Ingredients: (amounts are arbitrary)

1/3 of the “gobo” burdock root, skin scraped off using the back of a knife, thinly sliced on bias (on angle), then julienned, and soaked in cold water until used.

1 small carrot, skin peeled and julienned like the burdock

2 tbs mirin

2 tbs soy sauce

1 tbs dark sesame oil

Directions:

Drain the burdock. Add the burdock and carrot in a cold frying pan, put on medium flame and stir for a few minutes until the residual water on the veggies is mostly evaporated. (If the amout of water on the burdock is not enough to soften the burdock add a bit more water).

Add the mirin, stir then add the soy sauce stir until almost no liquid is left, taste and adjust the seasoning

Turn off the flame, add the sesame oil and white sesame seeds and mix.

Initially, I thought the sesame flavor was strong, but it calmed down when the dish cooled. I could not tell the difference between the stir-frying and stir-steaming method in the texture and taste of the final kimpira dish. But the major difference was much less splatter mess.