Izakaya in Sapporo Part 1 札幌の居酒屋パート1

We went from Tokyo to Sapporo by train rather than plane. We rode the Hokkaido Shinkansen 北海道新幹線 from Tokyo to Shin-Hakodate Hokuto 新函館北斗. (We rode the Hokkaido Shinkansen for the first time in 2017 from Oomiya 大宮 to Shin-Hakodate since we started in Niigata 新潟.) Initially I thought we would have to take a shuttle train from Shin-Hakodate back to Hakodate to catch the limited express narrow gauge “zairai sen 在来線” train to Sapporo. Then I discovered a zairai sen actually went through Shin-Hakodate. So all we had to do was get from the shinkansen platform to the zairai sen platform to get the limited express Hokuto 北斗 to our final destination Sapporo 札幌 (my home town).

We didn’t have much time, however, to get from one platform to the other at Shin-Hakodate. But we would essentially be on the train all day so we would need some food for the trip. The question was what to do about ekiben 駅弁? Should we get some in Tokyo or at Shin-Hakodate? We decided, we would not have enough time to buy ekiben  at Hakodate, so we bought two in Tokyo. It was a good thing we did because we just made the transition between the two platforms in time; if we had stopped to get an ekiben we would have missed our train.  Purchasing those two ekibens, however,  required a bit of effort. We were leaving Tokyo early in the morning and it was too early for the ekiben stores on the basement floor of the department store connected to the station to be open. Still, we got two decent ekiben from a small kiosk in front of the SevenEleven which was open. They came with an advisory that they needed to be consumed by 1 PM that day for safety reasons. We were able to comply by eating them just after we took off to Sapporo from Shin-Hakodate just making 1 PM deadline.

1.  Yakitori-no- Ippei Sappro Minani 4 Store 焼き鳥の一平南4条店

札幌市中央区南4条西3丁目9-1 12Mビル3階

12M bldg 3F
Minami 4, Nishi 3, Chuo-ku, Sapporo

For reservation: 011-281-0006, Credit card accepted, Smoking allowed

Since we were in Hokkaido, I thought going to a yakitori-ya 焼き鳥屋  that specialized in “Muroran” yakitori 室蘭焼き鳥 was appropriate. Muroran is a port town located south east of Sapporo about one and half hours by car or train. It had been famous for its steel industry but now it has been in decline. My mother’s relatives including her (my grand-) parents lived in the Muroran area and I remember visiting them as a small child, although I was too young for yakitori. Muroran yakitori differs from regular yakitori because it is made with pork and onion rather than chicken and negi scallion and side of yellow mustard

Later I learned that this izakaya is a family company started in Muroran with multiple stores in Muroran, Sapporo and other places in Hokkaido. There are two stores in Sapporo and the one we went is the smaller of the two.

It is located very close to the main Susukino intersection (picture above). We first tried Muroran yakitori (pork and onion). It came with yellow mustard. It was very good. We also ordered chicken yakitori. We had “shiro-reba or white liver which is sort of foi gras of chicken. It was soft in texture and something we have never tasted before. (We usually have and like regular chicken liver.) Besides yakitori, we tried some fried dishes. One of the recommended items was grilled shell-on boiled quail eggs 殻付きウズラの炭火焼き. I was tempted but was not sure how the shell could be eaten. One of the young customers sitting next to us ordered it and started crunching. I asked how it was. He said hard but good. We also had “cheese karikari-age” チーズのカリカリ揚げ or crunchy fried cheese (picture below). It was very good but appeared to be a  premade frozen product since we encountered exactly the same item at another izakaya. We had a dish of fried squid and ama-ebi which was also very good. We finished with “Nasu-yaki” a grilled eggplant. This was a variation of “Yaki-nasu 焼きなす”. It came with a small bowl full of bonito flakes. 

2. Susukino Kaisen Izakaya Kobachi すすきの海鮮居酒や小鉢

札幌市中央区南6条西4-1-11 TM 29 1F

TM-29 bldg 1F
Minami 6 Nhishi 4, Chuo-ku
Sapporo

For reservation 011-533-6555, Credit card accepted Smoking allowed

Judging from reviews and photos, this place is run by a chef who specializes in fresh seafood and is famous for live squid and crabs. When I called to make a reservation, I was told that they didn’t have any live squid today which was fine with us (we had live squid sashimi in Hakodate 函館 some years ago. We are not really sure if we like “live” squid sashimi.) In any case, this place was on the first floor of a small building. The entrance was far in the back after you enter the building.  Our expectations were high for some nice Hokkaido sourced seafood. We sat at a small table and across from us was a semi-private room with the sliding doors open. Four or 5 middle aged men were feasting literally; cult sake, crabs etc. The chef and his wife were appropriately paying close attention. In any case, we started with sake and assorted sashimi. The wife (waitress) recommend a few sakes which were pretty good. 

The chef himself delivered the sashimi for us and explained the various items. A few of them he specially prepared and recommended we enjoy them without the addition of any soy sauce. We also had sea urchin in salt water 塩水うに which, even though from Hokkaido, was not that special. The rest of the sashimi was good but not outstanding. We had some grilled fish and fried oysters. I am sure we had some more. The place was very smoky (thanks to guys in the semi private room). The sake and food were basically good.

Tottori Izakaya and Shinkansen “Izakaya” 鳥取の居酒屋と新幹線居酒屋

Tenchou ヽ兆

鳥取県鳥取市栄町752 ホテルレッシュ鳥取駅前 1F

Hotel Resh 1F
Sakae-cho 752, Tottori

For reservation 0857-51-1248, Credit card accepted, Smoking allowed

We came to tottori to see the sand dunes or “sakyu 砂丘” but it was rainy and we just saw it from a vista point but could not really walk on it. The sand museum 砂丘美術館, however, was quite impressive with large and amazing sand sculptures.

We stayed here only one night so we visited just one izakaya. This was just across from our hotel in the 1st floor of another hotel but the entrance was from the side street. This is a hybrid between izakaya and restaurant. A single young woman was at the counter eating her dinner. Eventually 2 other young women entered both dressed in almost the same frilly white dresses. (We noticed that frilly white outfits many of which almost looked like wedding dresses seemed to be quite popular among the younger set). The sake selection and food were quite decent, although we cannot recall exactly what we drank and ate.

Shinkansen Izakaya 新幹線居酒屋

Next morning, we took a limited express train from Tottori 鳥取 to Himeji 姫路 starting around 10:30 AM. Then, we transferred to the Shinkansen bullet train heading for Tokyo. So, this was a perfect time for "Shinkansen Izakaya" and lunch. During the layover between trains we had an adequate time to get two ekiben 駅弁; we got one with all drinking snacks in 9 compartments (picture) and one with Tonkatsu over  rice トンカツ弁当. We also got two small bottles of sake; one was particularity good called “Senhime Daiginjo 千姫大吟醸酒” which is the local sake

So, we shared these nine dishes with a sip of sake. They were amazing tasty little morsels; just the right amount and difference in flavor to make the whole thing extremely interesting.We also shared the tonkatsu bento. As scenery went by, this was as good izakaya as we can imagine. Finally, in the mid-afternoon, we were back to Tokyo.

Kyoto Izakaya in Kyoto Station Area Part 2 京都駅駅付近付近の居酒屋 パート2

2. Yakitori Tsujiya 焼き鳥つじや

京都市下京区塩小路西洞院西入ル北不動堂町522-9

5229 Kita-fudoudoucho, Shimokyou-Ku
Kyoto

For reservation 075-341-1819, credit card accepted, Probably smoking allowed
Ordering by QR code (You need a smart phone with internet access)

As I was writing this up, I looked on the internet for information about this place. The TSUJIYA GROOVE is the holding company. Judging from their web site, they run two separate but similar chains. One is “Yakitori Tsujiya 焼き鳥つじや” with one store which is where we went. Another is “Sumi-bi Kushiyaki Tsujiya 炭火串焼つじや” with 4 stores. The difference between these two chains is uncertain to me based on their write-ups. Both serve chicken on skewers grilled using a charcoal fire.  Judging from the pictures, the latter appears to be in at the higher end of the price spectrum.

This was a low-key yakitori place. We were lucky we could make the reservation. Although we were 5 minutes late, they kept our seats at the corner of the counter just next to the “yakiba 焼き場” where yakitori is grilled. So we had a good view of how the grilling was taking place. They gave me a slip with a  “QR code” printed on it and asked that I order through their web site. Luckily, I had my iphone connected to a portable hot spot. We ordered sake from their recommendation and ordered the usual suspects of yakitori dishes; chicken thigh, liver, tuskune, wings, negima etc. Meanwhile the place was packed. A number of people came to the door but were turned away including some foreign tourists. (Japanese refer to these customers as “inbounds”. This is where I saw the head waitress use an internet translation program to communicate the “lack of space” and expected “long-time wait” to the foreign “inbounds” who came to the door.)

The yakitori was very good. It had a nice highly pronounced charcoal flavor. All the dishes were pretty good but we really liked the liver and ordered seconds. We ordered more sake and other dishes and our “shime 〆” ending dish was a grilled rice ball.

During our stay, people started coming down from the second floor where, I understand, they have tables for big parties. But the people kept coming, coming, coming in a steady flow. Finally, I asked how many people they could accommodate on the second floor. They laughed and said “many”.

This was really good experience with excellent yakitori.


3. Irodori 京の四季いろどり

京都府京都市下京区東塩小路町577 大将軍ビル3階

Daishougun Bldg 3F
Higashi-shiokouji-cho 577
Shimokyo-ku, Kyoto

For reservation 075-343-9266, Credit card accepted, No smoking

The day I called for a reservation they said none was available so I asked for one the next day. They had seats for two at the counter.  The place was just across from the station/our hotel.  This is run by a company which also runs grilled meat “Yakiniku 焼肉” restaurants (two) and pachinko parlors (two) but only one “Irodori”. The place appeared quite large. Our counter was quite spacious and guests were seated quite far apart. This counter may have been used as a sushi-bar at one time but the cold case was empty.  A sliding door inside the counter connected to a large kitchen.  Noise and laughter wafted and there appeared to be many tables and rooms which we could not see.

They offered a Kyoto local sake tasting. We chose 6 between the two of us. This was a good move.

Among the 6 we tasted the one third from the right called “Ine-mankai 伊根満開” meaning “Full bloom in Ine” really stood out. This is because of its “rose wine” color and its amazing taste. We wanted to know what produced this unusual color and since I had my phone I quickly looked it up on the internet. I found out this was brewed from “ancient red rice 古代米” by a woman “touji 杜氏” brew master at the sake brewery “Mukai shuzo 向井酒造” . This. brewery is located in “Ine-cho 伊根町”. Since the flavor was so specially memorable we chose it as our starter sake.

As usual, we ordered assorted sashimi. A middle aged man who must have been the sushi chef, brought the sashimi plate. It had obligatory “Tai” perch which we had else where and tended to be sinewy/chewy but not this one. Nicely soft with much more flavor. I asked if it had been aged and the chef said when he tested it he determined it was too firm so he aged it for a few days. Some sashimi fish especially white fish can be improved in texture and flavor by aging. We had some other dishes including roasted duck breast. All were quite good. Although it lacked the usual Izakaya atmosphere, the sake and food as well service were great.  We will definitely go back.

Kyoto Izakaya in Kyoto Station area part 1 京都駅付近の居酒屋 パート1

We spent 3 nights in Kyoto. As usual, we stayed at our favorite hotel Granvia Kyoto グランビア京都 with a north and Kyoto tower view room. This means we went to 3 izakayas during our stay. In the past, we went to izakayas in other areas but this time, we limited ourselves to izakaya near the station including our favorite “Kurakura”.

1. Kurakura 蔵倉

京都市下京区飴屋町244木村ビル

Kimura-bldg
Ameya-machi 244, Shimokyou-ku
Kyoto

For reservation: 075-351-0347, credit card accepted, smoking allowed

Although I posted about this izakaya previously,  I did not mention the origin and meaning of the name “Kurakura”. The name “Kurakura” is a double entendre; this izakaya is housed in a renovated “warehouse” or “kura” in Japanese. “Kura” can be written in kanji 漢字 as “倉” or “蔵”. Although both kanji sound the same, “倉” is a grain/food warehouse and “蔵” is where family treasures are kept. So, the name of this izakaya is “蔵倉”  covering both kinds of warehouses. But “kurakura くらくら” written in phonetic letters also means “dizzy” or “state of being enchanted”. Appropriate for the state of inebriation. 

As you can see in the picture, this place is quite recessed from the narrow alley and the majority of the front appears to be a garage (I am not sure to whom this garage belongs). Then you had to walk narrow passageway on the left to the entrance of this izakaya.

Although we made a reservation, the place was not crowded and remained that way while we were there. Besides not being as crowded as the last few times we visited, the owner/master appeared to have delegated his position to the young chef who appeared to be in charge while the owner hung back out of the way. The young chef was in the center and front of the cooking area and when we asked for a dish, he was the one who repeated the order in a loud commanding voice. Another change was the absence of the owner’s (we presumed) wife/casher/sake sommelier. 

We had decent sake and food including sashimi and fried taro “satoimo 里芋 ” but, at this point, nothing  else sticks out in our minds. We liked when the old guy was in charge and his wife recommended many wonderful sakes.

Izakaya in Kanazawa 金沢の居酒屋

We have visited Kanazawa 金沢 on a number of our trips to Japan.  This time, we stayed in Kanazawa only one night. As a result, we went to only one Izakaya but this was a very special one. We usually stay in the hotels near Kanazawa Station 金沢駅 but this time, we stayed at a hotel near “Oomi market 近江市場”.  We visited Oomi market in the afternoon after we arrived and had a late lunch. Not all but some stores were open. We looked into many restaurants/izakaya in the Oomi merket, but many looked like tourist traps.

1. Shukou Yuunagi 酒肴夕凪

I looked into finding an izakaya where we could go in the evening. So many places popped up within easy walking distance of our hotel in Google map search. Using my usual criteria of menu, review, pictures available on line, I chose this place. I quickly called and made the reservation for the evening. Although it was very close to our hotel, I misread the Google map and turned into the first alley way when I should have turned into the second alley. In any case, I called and the person who answered the phone helped us get to the right place.

The place was almost full. It is run by a single owner with a young helper. Initially, we interacted with the young helper. when I asked him to recommend a sake, he consulted with the owner and asked what kind of sake we usual drank so I said we like diaginjo style; a clean and fruity sake. He brought out Kokuryu Daiginjo Fuku 黒龍大吟醸　福  (#1) which was fruity and clean tasting. Since I saw a bottle of  Tengumai Junnmai Yamahai-shikomi 天狗舞純米山廃止込 on the shelf, I ordered it. (Despite the fact we usually  prefer “Daiginjo  Tengumai”, which is actually our “house sake”). We have tasted and posted about Yamahai Tengumai sake. We like this sake served warm at home. This was served at room temperature. This order appeared to draw the attention of the owner. (Initially we had a difficult time engaging the proprietor directly which left us dealing mostly with the young helper. We ordered several special sakes and it turned out the bottles only contained a partial serving which the helper served us anyway. (It is our understanding we were not charged for these partial servings.) Eventually after these various orders, the proprietor realized we liked and knew sake and he warmed up; personally taking care of us suggesting various unique sake varieties.

Meanwhile we had couple of nice dishes including sashimi and an extremely good smoked oyster in olive oil (#5). (The taste of this dish was special; unique and very memorable. We have never experienced this combination of flavors and textures before. ) When I asked for other recommended sake, the owner himself brought out the next sake saying “if you could handle Yamahai Tengumai, you might like to try this.” The sake he bought was an aged sake or “koshu 古酒” called “Takesuzume Yamahai Junnmai BY28 竹雀山廃止純米酒　BY28 (#3). “BY” is brewery year. BY28 means it was brewed in “Heisei 28 平成28年” which is 2019 so it had been aged for 6 years. I assume this was cold aged since the color was still light. Although we usually do not prefer “aged sake”, this was quite a sake with almost sherry-like but clean taste which went perfectly with the smoked oyster (#5). He served “Yoshida-kura u Ishikawamon 吉田蔵 u Ishikawamon” (#4) which is made from a rare sake rice from Ishikawa prefecture 石川県 called “Ishikawamon 石川門”. This one was much fresher tasting than the previous aged one. Although I learned later this was supposedly  “slightly effervescent”, we did not feel that.

By far, this was one of the best Izakaya experiences with interesting sake and food. The customers appear to be all locals. It would have been difficult for tourists (like us) to find and fully enjoy this place. Next time we vist Kanazawa, we will try this izakaya again.

Tokyo Kyobashi Areas Izakayas (part 4) 東京の居酒屋 東京駅八重洲京橋付近 パート4

7. Wasabi Tokyo Station Yaesu Branch 和菜美東京駅八重洲店　

東京都中央区八重洲1-7-17 八重洲ロータリービルB1

Yaesu Rotary Bldg. B1

Yaesu 1-7-17, Chuo-ku

Tokyo

For reservation: 03-4405-1480, Credit card accepted, smoking allowed

This is another large chain izakaya. Later we learned that the holding company is called NBM which also runs several other chains. I called for a reservation one day ahead. This is a bit like  ”The restaurant with many orders/conditions 注文の多い料理屋” by Kenji Miyazawa 宮沢賢治. When I called, a man answered. I asked a table for two, date and time.  He said “A table is available” and “Are you taking a course menu?”. I said “No”. He sounded disappointed and said, “You have a table for 2 hours and minimum orders of one drink and two dishes per customer are required”. I said “okay” and thus we got a table for two for two hours.

The place was located in the basement floor of a building just across from Yaesu-guchi 八重洲口 of Tokyo station. Going down the steps triggered a chime and a man appeared. He ushered us to a small table. Although this place advertised “all private rooms”, this was a table with an opaque fabric partition on one side through which we can sort of see the next table/room. The other side was a Japanese style sliding door which was very close to the table. We got to the table by opening the sliding door. The guy repeated the conditions with which we could have our table for 2 hours. We ordered sake and several dishes (see below) immediately fulfilling their strict conditions we agreed on.

As we were  waiting for our orders to come, a large group of people came into the room/table across the aisle. The same server was taking care of this party. In a very loud voice (shout), he started outlining the precise conditions and rules for the “all-you-can-drink” deal. This was indeed “the restaurant with many conditions”.

Shortly, our orders started arriving. The assorted sashimi (#1) was decent but again the “Tai” perch was on the chewy side. One interesting item was fried fava beans (#2). Boiled or grilled (in pods) fava beans are common but fried was new to us. They were very good. We also ordered “crab cream croquets カニクリームコロッケ” which were excellent. Finally we had a dish of  “branded” chicken thigh (a special brand of chicken unique to the regional area) with french fries”. The french fries were clearly previously frozen and the chicken did not taste any different from any other chicken we have eaten but over all it was good.

We ordered more sake and some more dishes. Despite our initial misgivings, we had a good time here. Later we learned they have a store even in Sapporo (the last destination of our Japan trip). But we learned this only after we got back from Japan.

8. Fukube ふくべ*

東京都中央区八重洲1−4−5

Yaesu 1-4-5, Chuo-Ku, Tokyo

For reservation 03-3271-6065, credit card not accepted, smoking allowed

Without realizing it, we stumbled into a genuine Izakaya of Showa 昭和** era. This izakaya was first opened 75 years ago with a period of closure due to the world war II and reopened 60 years ago. I made the obligatory reservation the same day. The first floor was small with only a L-shaped counter. One wall in front of  the counter had tall shelves with many large bottles of sake on display. Although the counter was all crowded with “salary” men, we sat at the very end of the counter (thanks to the reservation). The stools were very closely placed (cozy).  There is a second floor which appears to be for larger parties but some people who came in after us were sent upstairs.

There was a stack of two sake barrels in front of us and the sake recommendation was “Kiku-masamune Taruzake 菊正宗樽酒”. We ordered it. The guy behind the counter removed the wooden bung from the front of the large sake cask and poured sake into a large copper funnel with an “ochoushi お銚子” sake serving bottle underneath. A  “Ichigo-masu*** 一合升”  was located in the bottom  the funnel. Then, the sake in the “masu” Japanese wooden measuring cup was poured into the ochoshi and served. They had only “ichigo” size ochoshi sake serving bottles. (so if you order 2-go, you get two ochoshi bottles). The taruzake had a cidarly flavor as expected. Not our favorite but in this atmosphere, this was really enjoyable. They served other sakes either at room temperature or warmed. We had a few more sakes. The food menu was very small and simple. We got grilled tarako cod roe, tuna sashimi and others. The dishes were  not fancy but perfect for this place. The salary men around us were enjoying themselves and some were getting quite drunk. This was quite a genuine izakaya experience.

*”Fukube 瓢” is a traditional Japanese vessel made of hollowed out “hyou-tan gourd 瓢箪”  used to store and carry liquid especially sake.

**Reign of Showa emperor 1926-1989. I am firmly from this period since I was born and grew up in the showa period.

*** “Masu 升” is a traditional square wooden measuring cup. “Ichigo 1合” is about 180ml.

Tokyo Kyobashi Areas Izakayas (part 3) 東京の居酒屋 東京駅八重洲京橋付近 パート3

5. Sake Ryoma 酒龍馬

東京都中央区京橋2丁目7−15鈴木ビル

Suzuki-bldg.
Kyobashi 2-7-15
Chuo-Ku, Tokyo

For reservation 03-3564-1171, Credit card: Accepted, Probably no smoking

This place was not as expected from my information gathering. The female owner has a vast collection of rare and cult class sake. We made our reservation one day ahead. This is a small place with only counter seating which may accommodate 8-10 people. There is a small table in the front but it appeared to be used only as a place for customers to sit and wait for counter space to open up. When we got there 4 people (apparently all regulars) were already seated on either side of our seats. They appeared to be deep into their own conversations. Then we were presented with a tray full of small dishes (12 as shown in the picture). We thought we were supposed take one or two as “Otoshi” but “No”, all of them were ours. To our surprise the tray was the full meal already organized and presented for our enjoyment. (No ordering from a menu necessary). Luckily all the dishes were quire good and it was not any trouble “cleaning the plate”.

They also have many cult sakes including many varieties of “Ju-yondai 十四代” and “Ji-Kon 而今” alike. We had two kinds of “Juyondai” sake. At this point, the initial stiffness had worn off and we were interacting with the young staff. Then the mama (owner) started talking to the customers who sat to the right of us introducing various rare sakes to them. She poured them a glass which they tasted then all of sudden, the guy in a suit sitting sat next to me excitedly started talking to me about how good the sake was and offering us a taste of the rare sake they were having. It was exceptionally good. Then as if all communication barriers came down at once the two men sitting on the other side of us joined in the conversation. All four, 2 seated to the left and 2 to the right of us started talking to us and each other.  Apparently they knew each other and all were sake connoisseurs. The group to our right were actually certified sake sommelier and started offering us tastes of various rare sakes, which the group to the left countered with tastes of the rare sakes they liked best. It was almost like they were in competition with each other in their sake offerings. So when they learned we liked sake too and would not be turning down any other their offers we found ourselves drinking all these rare sakes amidst fairly animated conversation. They even gave me their business cards. In any case, at the end, we are not sure how checks were handled but ours was high (as compared to other izakayas we visited) thus far but not unreasonable considering all the cult sake we drank.  It appears the bill for most of the rare sake we tasted went to these regulars. Although we did not ask for it, the receipt (a formal one which can be used to get reimbursement for business expenses) was included suggesting they thought we were there on business and like many of their customers needed the receipt to have the expense of the meal reimbursed.  

6. Kyo-Sushi 京寿司

東京都京橋2丁目2−1 エドグランド1F

Edogrand 1F
Kyobashi 2-2-1, Chuo-ku, Tokyo

For reservation 03-3281-5575, Credit card accepted, probably non-smoking

I wanted to go to at least one sushi bar. I was envisioning asking a sushi chef to serve us series of small dishes including sashimi (otsumami おつまみ) and finish with a few sushi. I managed to make the reservation for this sushi place one day before. This is a small sushi bar and the reviews are mostly about the reasonably priced lunch they offer; “Kaisen-Don 海鮮丼” various sashimi on rice in a bowl. In any case, most of the time we were there we were the only customers. A middle aged woman came in and had a omakase nigiri sushi. After she left, the chef told us she was an actress based in Osaka who stopped by every time she was in Tokyo. Although the sashimi and sushi were decent, the selection lacked variety (the only white meat fish was hamachi).

Tokyo Kyobashi Areas Izakayas (part 2) 東京の居酒屋 東京駅八重洲京橋付近 パート2

3. Tsukiji Jikan Kyoubashi Branch 築地十干京橋店

Tokyo Square Garden BF1
Kyobashi 3-1-1
Chuo-Ku, Tokyo

For reservation 03-6260-6936,  Credit card accepted, Non-smoking

Although details are a bit unclear, it appears that there are two branches; one in Kyobashi and the other in Meguro. This izakaya might be run by the same entity which has a dried sea food store called “Hoshimon-ya Tsukiji Jikan 干しもんや築地十干”. It is a retail store for dried sea food but it was reported to transform to standing izakaya in the evening. In any case, I read that this place offers fresh sashimi, sushi, meat dishes, and oden. It was walking distance from our hotel. I found the building, in which this izakaya is located, called “Tokyo Square Garden 東京スクエアガーデン” easily enough. I somehow missed that this place is on the basement floor. On the front side, several restaurants were visible in the first (ground) floor but not the one we were looking for. It took some effort but we finally found it. You have to go into the building and take an escalator to BF1. By now we had learned the secret of  “you must make a reservation” to get a seat. Accordingly we had made a reservation but it was on the same day we were going to eat. As a result, seats were available but only at the counter. Once we got there, a middle aged waitress greeted us (very motherly person). The seats at the counter were extremely high stools. She immediately, worried that the tall stools at the counter may not be suitable especially for my wife. But there was a small shelf under the counter on which we could rest our feet so we were OK with that. She recommended a couple of sakes and as she served, she placed sake bottle in front of us for me to take a pic.

Her sake recommendation was quite good. From the counter, we could see the open kitchen. Several young cooks and two much older guys; one preparing sushi and the other mostly cooking meat items. We started with sashimi. Despite the “Tsukiji” name which emphasized the access to good fish, the sashimi was average. We had a few more items including lamb cooked in a skillet. We had some sushi as a shime dish. The sushi was ok but my wife thought the rice was not well seasoned/vinegared. Overall a good evening experience with a motherly waitress taking care of us. Next time, we should make a reservation a day or more before we would like to go and ask for low table seating (they have high tables with high stools as well).

4. Sakana-no-Mekiki 魚の目利き東京駅八重洲口店

東京都中央区日本橋3丁目2−16マスヤビル7F

Masuya-bldg 7F, Nihonbashi 3-2-16
Chuo-Ku, Tokyo

For reservation: 050-5486-4394, credit card accepted, only heated-tobacco allowed*

*We learned that “kanetsu-shiki tabako or heated-tobacco 加熱式タバコ” is a type of “vaping” popular in Japan. By heating (but not burning) tobacco leaves instead of using liquid tobacco extracts as is done with vaping, nicotine containing vapor can be inhaled. This type of “smoking” was permitted in this isakaya and when we were there, we did not detect any “cigaret” or other type of tobacco smoke.

The name of this Izakaya means “connoisseur of fish”. The owner must have a close tie to the fishing port called “Misaki 三浦”  on the Izu peninsula 伊豆半島, Kanagawa 神奈川 near Tokyo.  Fresh fish from Misaki was emphasized on their web site. This appears to be a one-store establishment (i.e. this is not part of a chain but also it is not a mom-pop-run izakaya either). It is on the 7th floor of a small building but it has an elevator.

This was one of the most enjoyable izakaya we tried. We made a reservation. Our table was separated by hanging semi-opaque fabric barrier which made it somewhat private. They have a number of interesting dishes but as usual, we started with  assorted sashimi and sake. The sashimi was quite good. “Tai” perch had a bit sinewy part but it was confined to the part under the skin. Better than the “Tai” we have had else where (it appears this year’s “Tai” perch is chewy/sinewy). We also had “Tuna shuto with cheese マグロ酒盗チーズ” which was unusual and good. Another one which is a bit usual was“al ajillo” of small shrimp and small bait fish. The baguette came with this could be better, though. Another interesting dish was “iburi-gakko kurimu chizu いぶりがっこクリームチーズ” (I made a similar dish getting idea from this dish which is a subject of another post).

We had more sake and couple of other dishes. All quite good. 

Tokyo Kyobashi Areas Izakayas (part 1) 東京の居酒屋 東京駅八重洲京橋付近 パート1

We have not posted for sometime. That is partly because we were in Japan for several weeks. In any case, we are back. Mostly for our own benefits, I am listing the izakayas we visited while we were in Japan. This is not an endorsement or criticism of the places. Just our impression/description for the reference next time we go to Japan. I choose izakayas based mostly on their location, and review, menu, and pictures available on line. 

Just some observations on the current izakaya situation in Japan compared to our previous experiences on our previous visits the last in 2017 (8 years ago). In the past getting a table at an izakaya was a relatively low key affair. You would find an izakaya where you wanted to eat. You would then in stick your head in the door ask if there was room (which there usually was) then entered to be seated. No reservation required. Once seated that spot was yours for the duration. There was no specification of allotted time, or the number of dishes or drinks you had to order in that specified time. Things are quite different now. It seems that Japan has been inundated with foreign tourists especially from China. The izakaya have been flooded with foreign customers and seating is limited. We saw many people turned away or told there would be a long wait before they could be served. In addition there are now a number of other restrictions including a maximum allotted time to use the table and required numbers of orders of food and drink.  After some lack of success in appropriating a seating at izakaya we had selected we found the secret was to make a reservation even if it was only several hours before you wanted to eat. Once we discovered this secret we had much more success but it required us to plan more in advance. Things were not as spontaneous as before. Another difference we noticed is that many Izakayas in this area (many office workers) are into serving lunch and sometimes lunch is more emphasized than evening Izakaya. As a result, many of reviews on line are about lunch.

Tokyo Yaesu Kyobashi area 東京 八重洲, 京橋付近

1. Uokichi Sakaba Tokyo Branch 魚吉酒場東京店

東京都中央区京橋1丁目4−13 初音ビル 1F

Hatsune Bdg 1F
Kyobashi 1-4-13 Chuo-Ku, Tokyo

For reservation 050-5594-1328
Credit card accepted, Smoking allowed

This is a classic chain Izakaya. We went there because it was close to our hotel. We did not make any reservation and went there around 6 pm. We were told that we could have a table until 7:30 pm. The inside appeared to be newly renovated and very bright. The staff is all young and most of the customers are also young. The Sake selection was OK but not extensive. The food menu was also very classic for a chain izkaya. We had a sashimi assortment and several other dishes including fried food. Nothing extraordinary but not bad and the service was average. The reason we had to vacate by 7:30 became apparent as a group of people with cameras started gathering in front of the store. Apparently a YouTuber was making “contents” starting at 7:30.

2. Ichinokura Kyobashi-ten 一ノ倉京橋店

東京都中央区京橋1丁目4−13
Kyobashi 1-4-13
Chuo-Ku, Tokyo

For reservation 03-3517-1570

Credit card accepted

Non-smoking with smoking area 

We visited this Izakaya 8 years ago. We came here because it was next door to Uokichi and, for nostalgic reason, we decide to try it again. This was slightly more upscale than “Uokichi”. The entrance is at ground level, but you had to go down one floor. We had not made a reservation. Again, we were told we could have a table until 7 pm since the only available table had a reservation starting at 7:30 pm which left us about 1 hour. So we were ushered to a semi private room/booth. The server tried to be as efficient as possible. I asked for a sake recommendation first. He recommended one sake so we said “yes” but he came back and said “sorry we are out”. As compared to 8 years ago, the sake selection was not as extensive. Our first order was assorted sashimi which came in a shallow bowl covered with a dry ice induced fog, which entirely obliterated the view of sashimi (see below). Although nothing could be seen because of the fog the server pointed into it “identifying” the unseeable fish varieties that were supposedly there and explaining what kind of sashimi we got.

The sashimi was ok except for Tai perch which was so chewy my wife could not eat it. So she chewed for  a while and spitted it out and hid it under the garnish of “Otoshi”. That did not escape the keen eyed server’s notice. He asked “Oh, she cannot eat raw fish?” I answered “Yes she can but this was too chewy even for me” which shut him up. (This chewy Tai repeated in other izakaya we visited except for one in Kyoto called ‘Irodori” (more details later).) In any case, we were less impressed with our experience at this izakaya than we were 8 years prior and made an early retreat.