Strawberry, Pretzel Cheese Cake いちごチーズケーキ

This is based on a dish called “Strawberry Pretzel Salad” which appears to be popular in the South and Midwest. Although the original name includes “salad” this is clearly a “desert”. Reportedly, this recipe first appeared in “The joys of Jell-O” cookbook published by General Foods in the 1960s. There appear to have been some variations on the original recipe “down-the-road” over time but basically all the variations have a crushed pretzel layer on the bottom, a nice cream cheese layer in the middle topped with a strawberry-flavored Jell-O layer (which is red and clear) covering a layer of fresh strawberry slices.

Since my wife happens to be the Queen of aspic salads and other gelatin concoctions, this was the “cat’s meow” for her. We are in strawberry season and have very good fresh strawberries available. She had already made fresh strawberry puree for her other baking projects, and did not go for using “strawberry-flavored Jell-O”*. So, she made the strawberry gelatin layer from all-natural fresh strawberry puree. Since this layer is made with real strawberry puree, it is not clear like the strawberry flavored Jelly-O so a layer of fresh strawberry slices under the puree would not be visible. She used fresh strawberries as a topping and garnish (picture #1). This is a wonderful desert perfect for strawberry season. Although my wife’s modifications may be sacrilege to the devotees of the traditional Jell-O desert/salad, we really like it.

*Looking into the ingredients that make up strawberry flavored Jell-O we discovered that it does not include anything strawberry except the artificial flavoring.

My wife’s recipe is based on a recipe that appeared in the Washington Post. So as not to offend the people who grew up with their mother’s version of this dessert, she change the name to “Strawberry, Pretzel Cheese Cake”.

Ingredients:
4oz (114 grams) pretzels
1/8 Cup Sugar
6 tbs butter

4 oz cream cheese
¼ Cup sugar
I tsp vanilla
1 cup cream

½ lb fresh strawberries made into puree
1 tsp gelatin
1 1/2 tbs water
1 cup of the resulting strawberry puree.

Directions:
Make the crust:
Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 400 degrees. In a food processor, pulse the pretzels and sugar until coarsely ground. Add the melted butter and pulse until combined. Transfer the
pretzel mixture to a 9-by-13-inch baking pan. (I used the square pyrex baking dish). Using the bottom of a measuring cup, press into an even layer. Bake for about 10 minutes, until the crust is fragrant and just beginning to brown around the edges. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool slightly, about 20 minutes.

Make the cream cheese filling:
Clean out the food processor. Add the cream cheese, sugar and vanilla and process until smooth, about 5 seconds. Add the heavy cream, pulse a few times to blend with the cream cheese, then process until thickened, about 30 seconds. Do not over process. Spread the cream cheese mixture evenly over the cooled crust, making sure to go all the way to the edges of the pan to completely cover the pretzels. Refrigerate until set, 30 minutes to 1 hour.

Make the strawberry topping:
Cook the fresh strawberries in a pan on low heat until they get soft and exude liquid. Use an immersion blender to puree the cooked strawberries. Bloom the gelatin in the water in the top of a double boiler, Heat until the gelatin is melted. Add the puree stir until the gelatin and puree are completely blended. Cool to room temperature

Assemble the dessert:
Once the cream cheese filling has become firm pour the room temperature strawberry puree over it Refrigerate uncovered until firmly set, at least 4 hours and up to overnight. Cut into rectangles and serve chilled (#2).

We can see why this type of salad/dessert is so popular. It is a great combination of flavors and textures. The pretzel crust provides a crunchy saltiness. The cream cheese layer is very light, slightly sweet and very creamy in texture. (For future reference it would be very useful as a creamy layer for other “desert” dishes. You may see it again in other contexts.) The puree layer adds a nice rich tangy fresh strawberry flavor that is a good contrast to the soft sweetness of the cream cheese layer.

Strawberry Muffin Bites 苺とクリームチーズのカップケーキ

When we went to Whole Foods the other day. my wife picked up a package of fresh strawberries. After coming home, I asked why she got the strawberries. Her answer was, “To make Strawberry Cream Cheese Cupcakes”.  She saw the recipe on the King Arthur Baking site. She showed me the recipe and my one thought was ‘this is a very long and complicated’. Of course she significantly deviated from the original. One of the major deviations was the elimination of the cream cheese part. We had these muffins as a part of our breakfast.

Ingredients:
Strawberry puree: 
1 pound (454g) of fresh strawberries
3 tablespoons sugar, (You can use more or less depending on how sweet the strawberries are.)
There will be about 1 to 1 1/2 cups of strawberry puree after it is cooked 

Strawberry cake (X1)
1 1/2 cups (180g) cake flour
1 cup (198g) granulated sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon table salt
6 tablespoons (85g) butter, at room temperature

2 large eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla extract 
1/2 cup (130g) or up to 3/4 cup strawberry puree, from above. (There may be some puree left over which can be used for different recipes.)

Strawberry cake (X2)
3 cups (360g) cake flour
2 cups (396g) granulated sugar
4 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon table salt
12 tablespoons (170g) butter, at room temperature
4 large eggs
4 teaspoons vanilla extract 
1 cup (260g) to 1 1/2 cups strawberry puree, from above. 

Directions:
To make the strawberry puree: Rinse the strawberries, remove their leaves and stems, then dice; you should have approximately 3 cups (about 400g) of strawberries at this point. Transfer the strawberries to a medium pot and (if you are using it add the sugar); mix to combine. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the strawberries have released their juices and softened, 3 to 5 minutes.

Using an immersion blender, purée the strawberry mixture off the heat, and then return it to the stove. Bring the mixture to a low simmer over medium heat and continue to stir for 6 to 8 minutes. The mixture will become foamy, slightly thick, and darker in color. (This will concentrate the flavor more.)

Remove the pan from the heat and allow the mixture to cool to room temperature. If making the puree in advance, store in an airtight container in the refrigerator until ready to use. 

To make the cupcakes: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a muffin tin (either a mini muffin tin or standard size tin) with baking cups. In a cuisine art blender fitted with a blade combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Add the butter and mix at low speed until the mixture looks sandy. (Similar to making biscuit dough). Beat in the eggs and vanilla. Then mix until no dry spots of flour remain. Stop the mixer and scrape the bowl and beater attachment as needed; the mixture will be very thick and light. (Beating the eggs in the batter with the cuisine art this way really whips up the batter making it very light and airy.) 

Add the strawberry reduction. (I have found that the recipe is quite tolerant of a range in the amount of strawberry puree that can be used. For example I have used about 1/4 cup more puree for the X1 and 1/2 cup more for the X2 recipe and it has worked out just fine. The muffin is a bit softer with the additional puree which is very nice.) Continue to mix on low speed until the batter is smooth. Stop to scrape the bowl and then mix again at low speed for 30 seconds. Spoon the batter into the prepared muffin tins. 

Bake the cupcakes for 15 to 20 minutes for mini muffins or 20 to 25 for regular size muffins, or until the cake springs back when lightly touched. Remove the cupcakes from the oven, and as soon as you can handle them, remove them from the pan and transfer them to a rack to cool.

These cupcakes were very different from anything we’ve made before. They have a lovely pervasive strawberry taste and the texture is very moist. The bright strawberry flavor really shines through. They had a very light texture and the strawberry flavor lingered on the tongue. These are definitely a “favorite”. 

Strawberry Blini いちごビリニ

This is another variation of blini/crumpet my wife made. This time it was strawberry blini. This happened because of the strawberry we bought sometime ago were not really sweet and as a result we weren’t quick to eat them. I “processed” the fresh strawberries the usual way by washing them, removing the hull, cutting into half or quarters, then placing them in a sealable container with enough triple sec to coat all the pieces. With this treatment, the fruit lasts quite a long time in the refrigerator. After a few days, the surface red color leaches out and the entire strawberry pieces turn red but the taste is the same. We often add this to our breakfast yogurt. This time, the strawberries were not really sweet and they stayed in the fridge without being used. So, finally we decide to either use them or throw them out.  Since my wife has been on a roll making different favored blinis (roasted pepper, pesto, corn, and mashed potato), she suggested making strawberry blini. They came out surprisingly really nice. Slightly pink colored inside with nice tender texture, crunchy crust and subtle but definitive slightly sweet strawberry flavor. We had this as a part of breakfast.

Ingredients: makes 16 blini
2 cups strawberry puree
6 tbs melted butter
3/4 cup cream
6 large eggs, beaten
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup + 4 Tbs. cake flour 
1/2 cup sugar 
1 Tbs + 1 1/2 tsp. Baking powder
2 tsp. vanilla 
1 1/2 tsp salt
enough strawberry juice to bring the batter to the consistency of pancake batter.  

Directions:
Heat the strawberry Triple Sec mixture in a sauce pan just until it starts to boil. Cool and drain the liquid but reserve it for future use. In a food processor, puree the strawberries until smooth; scrape into a medium bowl. Add the egg, the melted butter and cream, then add the flours, sugar baking powder, vanilla and salt and whisk until well blended. (You may need to add some of the reserved strawberry juice so the batter is the consistency of pancake batter.)

Melt 1 Tbs. butter. In a cast iron platar, use the melted butter to grease each of the platar cups before adding the batter . Pour the batter into the cups until they are full using the largest ice cream scoop. Cook over moderately low heat, turning once, until set, about 5 minutes or more per side. Repeat with the remaining butter and batter.

These were remarkably good. They had a tender texture, were slightly sweet and had a loverly subtle strawberry flavor was very distinctive and pervasive. Another small element of surprise was when we pureed the strawberries we noticed there were a lot of very small seeds. We discussed whether we should try to remove them and if so how. We decided that would be too difficult so we just left them in. Turns out the seeds provided a very nice and very small popping crunch in each bite—not so much as to be bothersome, just a pleasant addition to the texture.  The possibilities for blinis are limitless.

P.S. We found out that this tastes really good with strawberry whipped cream cheese. The strawberry on strawberry flavor is very nice. 

White “Pineberry” and Red “Koyo” Strawberries 白いイチゴと昂揚イチゴ

We have noticed that some of the gourmet food sites are now carrying Japanese white strawberries which are extremely expensive. (For example, at one site, a tray of 8 strawberries was $135. At another, 400 gm were on sale for $98.99). This was certainly not the strawberry scene when I was growing up in Japan. For one thing edible white strawberries did not exist; if they were white they were not ready to eat because they were not ripe. Also peak strawberry season was in the summer. Now, the best strawberry season is in the winter.  (This is because all the strawberries are grown in high tech labor intensive green houses). Nonetheless even the red strawberries (ichigo イチゴ) we ate in Japan on our various trips, there were not the same “animal” they are here. They were extremely flavorful and very sweet. Not even the most sweet strawberries we’ve ever eaten here hold a candle to the ones we got on recent trips to Japan.* We are not as familiar with the white Japanese strawberries as we are with the red and therefore considered ordering the Japanese white strawberry but the price is astronomical and we decided even as good as we knew they would be it was not worth it.

*digression alert. The most sweet strawberries we ever ate here came from a field in California near the condominium we were renting at the time. During harvest time they were being sold right out of field at a small fruit stand. They were ripe to perfection and warm having been kissed by the sun in the field. Nonetheless they were very acidic compared to the ones we have had in Japan.

The other day, however, when we went to Whole Foods, my wife found “white” strawberries called “Berry de blanc” and small red strawberries called “Oiishii” meaning “delicious” in Japanese which appears to suggest its Japanese connection (picture #1). The label also listed the red strawberry as “Koyo berry”. Although we were not sure what they were, they sure looked like the Japanese varieties we had just been looking at on the web so we bought them since they were not too expensive.

We first opened the white strawberries (picture #2). They were a good size, pale white with red seeds and looked exactly like the Japanese white strawberries.

The “Oishii” strawberries (picture #3)  were small but bright red and carefully packaged in a plastic case with an individual recess for each berry.

We also bought some green grapes called “Cotton candy” grapes (these were from Peru). We bought these one time before and liked them. So we had the two kinds of strawberries and the grapes (picture #4) as a desert for our lunch.

The white strawberry was sweet but not as sweet as the “Oishii” strawberry and it had a different (not-strawberry) flavor. Later we learned this variety of white strawberry is called “pineberry” because it has a slight pineapple flavor. We were not sure that we could recognize the different flavor as pineapple but it was definitely different. The “oishii” strawberry was very sweet and tasted like a strawberry. Both are much better than regular strawberries available in the supermarket. The cut surfaces (picture #5) are interesting; the white strawberry is white all the way through and the “Oiishii” strawberry is completely red. Many American strawberries are red on the surface but the center is pale/white (not fully ripe?).

The white strawberry (pineberry) we got is grown in Florida and “Oishii” strawberry is grown in New Jersey using Japanese vertical cultivation techniques. Do we buy these strawberries again? The answer is “probably”. It is a bit more expensive but not outrageous (like the ones from Japan) and taste better than regular strawberries.

Digression alert: We were curious about how these white strawberries were developed, how they could be ripe but still white. We also wanted to know what was the difference between Western and Japanese white strawberries? The strawberry genetics appear complicated and beyond me but the mechanisms for the strawberry that is ripe but still white is due to the genetics, i.e., the lack of a protein called “Fragaria allergen A1” which prevents the berries from producing “anthocyanin” which gives it the red color. There appear to be many white strawberry varieties including wild ones. The version of white strawberry we got is called “pineberry” which is a cross between North and South American strawberries (Fragaria x ananassa and Fragaria chiloensis) which was reportedly introduced to the U.K. market in 2020.

The Japanese white strawberries are apparently different (genetically and flavor-wise??). The first Japanese white strawberry varietal was reportedly registered in 2009. Since we have not had a chance to taste many different varieties of Japanese white strawberries (it appears they come up with new varieties often), we do not know how the flavors differ.

Strawberry panna cotta いちごパナコタ

 My wife is into making panna cotta in some small jar we cam across recently. The amount is perfect for us as dessert. This time she made strawberry panna cotta. When we get fresh strawberry, I usually wash the strawberries, hull, cut into small pieces (small one quartered and large ones quartered and then halved). I place the strawberries in a sealable container, add some sugar (depending  on how sweet the strawberries are) and and triple sec  to taste. Then marinate them for a while in the refrigerator. This makes even not-so-good strawberries palatable and we eat as is or add it to the yogurt.  She used these marinated strawberries for panna cotta.

Ingredients:
1 tsp gelatin
1 1/2 Tbs. water
1/2 cup 4 % milk
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup strawberry puree (marinated strawberries as described above pureed)
1/2 tsp. vanilla
1 cup buttermilk

Sauce;
Strawberry puree to top off the jars

Directions:
Bloom the gelatin in the water. Warm the milk and sugar in a saucepan until the sugar is dissolved. Use the hot milk mixture to temper the bloomed gelatin until it is completely dissolved then add it back into the warm milk mixing to thoroughly combine. Add the strawberry puree and vanilla to the buttermilk and stir completely. When the milk sugar mixture has cooled to room temperature add the buttermilk mixture. Distribute to the serving jars (or containers). (Fills about 6 of the small jars). Put in the refridgerator until it becomes firm. When it is firm top with the rest of the strawberry puree.

This is a lovely refreshing dessert. The texture is very creamy. The bright slightly sweet strawberry flavor completely infuses the milk mixture and is very nice with the slight tang of the buttermilk. A perfect way to end a meal.