Hiyaoroshi Sake “Shichi Hon Yari” 七本槍 純米ひやおろし

“Shichi Hon Yari” 七本槍純米ひやおろし is the second hiyaoroshi we tasted. This one is from Shiga prefecture 滋賀県 (near Kyoto on the shore of lake Biwa 琵琶湖, the largest lake in Japan). This is “junmai 純米” made from “Yamadanishiki 山田錦” sake rice. We tasted it cold. To us, this sake tasted dry, clean and fruity and the taste profile close to ginjo. We didn’t think it had a pronounced “rich” umami flavor. We felt that the previous hiyaoroshi we tasted (Shonai Bojin 庄内美人) had a richer and umami-laden taste profile. Interestingly both sakes are located in a similar place on the Tippsy sake’s profile charts. 

As before, I prepared “sake-no-sakana 酒の肴” or drinking snacks which go well with the sake. We defrosted “Ootoro 大トロ” fatty tuna (from Riviera Seafood Club). It was slightly sinewy and layers tended to separate but the sinew was not bothersome to us. The quality was quite good. I served in three ways; straight sashimi, salted and seared with one side torched or “aburi 炙り” and marinated or “Zuke 漬け”. All were pretty good but I liked “aburi” the best. Also we had scallop sashimi ホタテの刺身 also from  Riviera. We also had the last of “uni shuto ウニ酒盗” from Maruhide 丸秀 and “squid shiokara イカの塩辛” (my wife calls it “squid and guts”) we got from a Japanese grocery store frozen (from Hakodate Hokkaido 函館北海道).

 

All these sashimi and shuto and shiokara all went well with cold hiyaoroshi sake. This was a great way to celebrate the change of season to fall. 

Assorted sashimi from Riviera Seafood club リビエラシーフードクラブから ”美味しい刺身パック”

This is the second time we got super-frozen assorted sashimi called “Oishii Sashimi Pack” from Riviera Seafood Club. (“Oishii” means delicious). I forgot to take pictures when I served the akami and chu-toro tuna from the pack but it was identical to what I posted some days ago.  The package also contained 6 Hokkaido “hotate” scallops and tuna chunks (for poke I assume). I re-vacuum packed the scallops into packages consisting of two scallops each which was perfect for us. From the tuna chunks, I made two dishes; tuna avocado cubes 鮪とアボカドの角切りand pseudo negitoro 擬制ネギトロ the other day. (But did not take pictures). The tuna chunks are a mixture of toro and akami and the quality is good. In any case, we had hamachi and the last of the scallops this evening. As before, the hamchi had skin attached and had a dark chiai 血合い portion. Although the hamachi chiai is not as gamy as tuna, I removed it and made “namerou” なめろう (I did not take a picture). In any case, I served the scallop sashimi on little dishes of actual scallop shells. (Turns out over the years we have accumulated quite a few). I made three version of hamachi sashimi. I also added two kinds of wasabi (one kind included chopped wasabi plant stalks). I also included yuzu kosho and Japanese red pepper paste. For sauce, I served “sashimi shouyu” 刺身醤油 (with a dab of wasabi) and home-made ponzu 自家製ポン酢 (with a dab of red pepper paste).

I sliced the scallops in half horizontally. These were really good scallops, very sweet and fresh tasting. They went well with the wasabi that included chopped wasabi plant stalks and soy sauce.

I served three slices of the hamachi as is.

I served two slices as “zuke” which were marinated in 4x Japanese noodle sauce for 1 hour in the fridge. The hamchi became very rich with dashi taste.

The last two slices of hamachi are “Kobu-jime” 昆布締め which added “umami” from kelp and removed some of the moisture. This was best with the ponzu.

My wife really like “yuzu kosho” instead of wasabi for these sashimi.

The picture below is from the Riviera website. It shows the collection of fish that makes up the “Oishii Sashimi” package. Although this is a lot of sashimi, each portion is relatively small and we could handle it better than the larger potions we got before from other places. We have not started on the salmon yet. More to follow.

Scallops With Shallot Citrus Sauce 帆立のシトラスシャロットソース

This is a continuation of our story about frozen food inventory control. This time it was scallops from Great-Alaska-Seafood. These are really good scallops and we wanted to enjoy them while they were still good. Our most common and favorite way to prepare scallops is “Hotate-no Isobe-yaki” 帆立の磯辺焼き in which the scallops are seared, seasoned with soy sauce, then wrapped in a sheet of nori. This time we tried something different. We saw an article in the Washington Post featuring 6 scallop recipes. One of them was “scallops with shallot citrus sauce”. This was perfect since we happened to have some grape fruit and oranges we’d gotten from Harry and David. So one evening we decide to make this.

To prepare the fruit is a bit of work but the this dish was really great. Nice fresh citrus flavors went well with the seared scallops.

Ingredients (2 small servings)
4 large sea scallops (we used 4 scallops for 2 servings but the standard size may be 4 diver scallops for each serving).
1 medium red grapefruit.
1 large orange
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 large shallot, finely diced (about 3/4 cup)
1/2 cup dry white wine, (we used sauvignon blanc)
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, divided
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon or basil, for serving (I used chopped fresh parsley)

Directions:
Using a sharp paring knife, trim the top and bottom off the grapefruit and the orange. Working over a bowl so the citrus segments fall into the bowl and you catch the juice, use a paring knife to remove each segment of the fruit from its membrane. Squeeze the remaining membrane over the bowl to extract more juice. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the citrus segments to a separate bowl; reserve the juice.

In a medium saucepan over medium heat, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil until shimmering. Add the shallots and cook, stirring, until they soften slightly, about 2 minutes. Add the wine, increase the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil. Cook until the wine is reduced by about half, about 2 minutes. Add the reserved citrus juice and cook until the liquid in the pan has reduced slightly, 1 to 2 minutes more. Stir in the butter and 1/4 teaspoon of the salt, then remove from the heat and cover to keep warm.

Pat the scallops all over with paper towels to ensure they are as dry as possible, then sprinkle with the remaining 1/4 teaspoon of salt and pepper. Heat the remaining oil in a large skillet over high heat, until shimmering. Add the scallops and cook, without moving them, until caramelized and brown on the bottom, 2 to 3 minutes. Gently flip, and cook on the other side until the scallops are only slightly translucent in the center, 2 to 3 minutes more.

While the scallops are cooking, add the citrus segments to the sauce, stirring gently so they don’t break up much; return the sauce to low heat until warmed through.
 Evenly divide up the scallops per serving and place on the plates. Pour about 1/3 cup of sauce on top, and sprinkle with the herbs. Serve warm.

We had this with freshly cooked rice mainly because we were running short of frozen rice (which is very convenient to have on hand).  The citrus sauce went remarkably well with the rice. We ended up pouring all the available sauce on the rice and even supplementing the dish with more fresh rice. We do not always have grapefruit and oranges on hand but when we do this is a great way to serve scallops.

Seared Scallops on Cauliflower Puree 焦がし帆立とカリフラワーピュレー

We like cauliflower puree. Now I changed how I make it and the process is easier but the results are the same (I added the directions below).  We used the puree for quite a few dishes. Recently, we revisited one of our favorite fish dishes; Chilean sea bass (Patagonian tooth fish). We really like this fish over a bed of Cauliflower puree. Recently we tried a similar combination using seared diver scallops which we got from Great-Alaska-Seafood. I made an impromptu pan sauce which went well.

For seared scallops
Ingredients (for two small servings)
4 diver scallops, thawed if frozen, patted dry and seasoned with salt and pepper
1tsp peanut or other vegetable oil
Pan sauce:
2tbs Japanese sake for deglazing
1tbs lemon juice
1 tsp x4 concentrated Japanese noodle sauce
1 tbs of cold butter

Directions:
Add the vegetable oil with high smoking point to a stainless steel or iron frying pan on medium high flame. Heat the pan until the oil just starts smoking
Add the scallops and brown one side for 1-2 minutes and flip-over . Brown the other side for another 1 minute or until the scallops are just cooked in the center (expect some smoke).
After removing the scallops, add the sake and deglaze the pan. Reduce the liquid to half. Add the noodle sauce and the lemon juice. Reduce briefly and finish with pats of butter.
Place the scallops on the bed of warm cauliflower puree and pour the pan sauce over the scallops.

For cauliflower puree
Ingredients (makes at least 4 to 6 servings):
One head of Cauliflower, washed and florets separated
1 to 3/4 cup 4% milk, warm (I microwave but be careful of over boiling)
Several thin pats (2-3 tbs) of cold butter
1/2 tsp salt or to taste

Directions:
Steam the florets for 7-10 minutes or until very soft.
Meanwhile warm the milk (I microwave but be careful of over-boiling)
In a cylindrical container for a immersion blender, add the cauliflower and half of  the warm milk.
Press down the immersion blender at a medium speed, up and down several time.
Depending on the consistency add more milk and blend in high-speed until silky smooth (may take some time to attain the smooth puree).
Add the butter and salt and further blend
Taste and adjust the salt

We really like this combination. The pan sauce also worked well. If this is a main dish, I would use 4 scallops per serving and add side vegetables.

Salmon-Scallop Spinach pate 鮭と帆立のパテ

 My wife’s sister mentioned that recently she made a great carrot cake and apple pie. She said the recipes came from a cookbook called “Frog Commissary Cookbook” by Steven Poses which was published in 1985 (and presently out of print). While we were talking about the cookbook, I quickly searched for it and found a used one in good condition at Amazon and ordered it.

Digression alert: My wife’s sister originally lived in the Philadelphia area and was familiar with the Frog Commissary when it was in vogue back in the 1980’s. It was an exclusive catering service for the Franklin Institute which is the science museum in Philadelphia. The cookbook is based on Steven Poses former restaurant (called “Frog”) and his catering experience at the Franklin. Although we had never heard of it, back-in-the-day, the Frog Commissary Cookbook” was a “must have” in the Philadelphia area much like San Francisco a la Carte by the Junior League of San Francisco was about the same time while we were living in the San Francisco area. 

As my wife and I were browsing through the book we both thought this seafood pate recipe was worthwhile to try. The recipe as shown in the cookbook is of catering proportions and large enough to serve a multitude of people. As a result it required some scaling down. In my scaled down version, however, I was not aggressive enough in the seasoning; more seasoning would have been better. Although nothing was listed as a possible sauce in the original recipe we felt it called for one. After some experimentation I came up with two sauces that worked pretty well.  I served it with a side of tomato and cucumber dressed in olive oil and balsamic vinegar.  In any case, it is rather good looking and subtle flavored pate.

As I mentioned I thought the original recipe was sort-of a restaurant size and I reduced it by 1/4. This was not easy since the original amounts were not in metric. I first converted the non-metric weight and volume to metric and then divide those by 4. The seasoning should have been more than just 1/4 of the original recipe. (The seasoning amounts below reflect the suggested increase).

Ingredients: (makes one mini-loafpan)
Salmon-scallop mixture
85 g scallops
85 g salmon filet
1 egg white
1/8 tsp nutmeg (or to taste)
1/2 tsp. salt (or to taste)
1/4 tsp pepper (or to taste)
1/8 tsp cayenne (or to taste)
1/2 tbs (7ml) brandy
100 ml heavy cream

Spinach-scallop mixture
3 g butter
3.7ml minced shallots (half of medium shallot)
1/2 cup packed fresh spinach (30 g, cooked, moisture squeezed out, finely chopped)
1/8 tsp salt
1/16 tsp pepper
1/2 tbs minced dill
25 g scallop
15 ml heavy cream

Directions:
Salmon-scallop mixture
Cut up the salmon and scallops into a small size and place in a food processor (I used a mini-food processor) and process for 1 minute or until all chopped up
Add the seasonings, egg white and brandy and process 10 seconds
Place in a bowl and add the cream in several increments and mix until smooth.
Cover and refrigerate.

Spinach scallop mixture
Sauté the shallot in butter for 4-5 minutes (I seasoned this with salt and pepper), let it cool.
I cooked the spinach in a wok, lid on, at very low heat without any liquid (our usual way) for 7-8 minutes occasionally mixing top and bottom portions of the spinach until completely wilted and cooked. Cool, squeeze out the moisture and cut it up.
Place the shallot, spinach, and dill in a food processor and process for 10 seconds, add the chopped scallop and process additional 30 seconds or util smooth.
Transfer to a bowl and mix in the cream and mix until smooth

Assembly:
I first lightly oiled all surfaces of the loaf pan with olive oil. I lined the loaf pan with two portions of parchment paper in the shape of a cross with all sides covered (#1 picture below).
Add half of the salmon-scallop mixture, make shallow trough using the back of a wet spoon and add the spinach scallop mixture to the center in a log shape (I used a spatula and spoon to do this) (#2).
Add the remaining salmon-scallop mixture and smooth the surface.
Cover the surface with parchment paper (which I forgot but no ill effect) (#3) and then cover the loaf pan with aluminum foil (#4).
Bake in the toaster oven on convection mode at 350F using a bain marie (larger pan with hot water covering at least half of the depth of the loaf pan) for 35 minutes or internal temperature registers 135F.
Remove the aluminum foil and let it cool on the rack until reaching room temperature.
Unmold the pate by gently lifting the ends of the parchment paper lining (#5).
I placed folded paper towel on the bottom of a tight fitting sealable plastic container and refrigerated.
The cut surface is very attractive with green center (#6).

This was very elegant and very good. But I think we can improve on this. Although the color contrast is nice, we are not sure if we need the spinach in the center. Just all salmon-scallop pate could be nicer and easier to make. In terms of the sauce, we tried three sauces; aged Balsamic vinegar, wasabi soys sauce, and yuzu-kosho ponzu. All worked well but we liked the classic wasabi-soy sauce best. The amount we made is just right for most people. I think the usual wine pairing would be a dry white or sparkling wine. We had it with our usual red.

Mixed seafood fry 海鮮フライ

This is our effort to clear up some frozen seafood inventory that has been in our freezer “long enough”. Among the items in danger of exceeding their allotted time were  scallops we got from Great-Alaska-Seafood and Pacific Oysters we got from Vital Choice wild seafood. I added shrimp also from Great-Alaska-Seafood to these items so that I could make a mixed seafood fry.

The picture below is not one of my better jobs at presentation, but hot out of the oil, these fried items were great. I served them with homemade Pa Dutch coleslaw, Campari tomatoes and wedges of lemon.

Although the scallops had freezer burn, I carefully shaved it off before cooking. Despite that, they tasted good. We should not be eating this type of fried food too often but when we  do, we  really enjoy it.

Seafood nabe on a snowy day 雪降りの夕の海鮮鍋

As the weather got colder our thoughts turned to having Japanese hot pot or nabe 鍋 for dinner. This week we had some snow and our backyard was transformed to a winter wonderland; perfect time for nabe. So we decided to have one using whatever ingredients we had on hand.

We used to cook nabes on a portable gas cooker with a butene fuel canister but both the cooker and the canisters became so old we started worrying about how safe they were. Fortunately after we used up the canisters several years ago. We switched to a table top induction cooker (or Japanese will say IH or induction heater).  Making Sukiyaki すき焼き on this type of cooker works well because a sukiyaki nabe pot is usually made of cast iron but other earthenware or pottery pots or nabes won’t work. Then, we discovered an induction-cooker-compatible nabe pot. (It has a magnetic metal disk embedded in the bottom). With it,  we can do a nabe at the table without having to use a gas canister fuel source. 

I checked our freezer and refridgerator and decided we could do a sea food nabe or “kaisen-nabe” 海鮮鍋. We defrosted, scallops, cod, pacific oyster (this is the second time we used frozen Pacific oyster which worked well as a fry) and shrimp. We also had fresh shiitake and  nappa cabbage but not other green leafy vegetables. In any case, we set up our nabe feast.

I started the broth by soaking kelp in the nabe pot in cold water for several hours.  In the evening, I put the pot with the kelp in it on the induction cooker. Once the water came to a boil, I removed the kelp. I then added the shrimp shells and once the color of the shells changed I continued simmering for a few minutes, I the removed the shrimp shells.  I seasoned the broth with white dashi “Shiro-dashi” 白だしand light colored soy sauce making a very gentle broth. I started cooking the hard part of the nappa cabbage as well as the other vegetables. We also had some decent firm tofu from Whole Foods which I added. Next came daikon, carrot and potato, all precooked in the microwave oven.

Our seafood lineup is shown below (all frozen, and thawed in the refrigerator). It included shrimp, scallop (from Great Alaska Seafood), Pacific oysters (from Vital choice wild sea food and organics) and cod (from Whole foods). This was the second time we used frozen Pacific oysters. The first time I made fried oysters.  These were much better than the small fragmented fresh or pasteurized  oysters we sometimes get.

The picture below shows the vegetables which waiting to be put into the nabe; the leafy portion of nappa cabbage, tofu, shiitake mushroom, precooked daikon, potato, and carrot. 

We made sure the seafood was not overcooked. We also used  ponzu sauce as we were eating. This was a fun dinner perfect with the snowy winter outside and the steaming body warming nabe inside. We had warm sake (“Hakutsuru Ginjo 白鶴吟醸) to boot. Of course, there were leftovers. Classically, Japanese will end the nabe by adding rice or noodles into the remaining broth to make a “shime” 〆 final dish but we were too full and the next day, we made rice porridge with eggs for lunch.

Scallops "Isobe-yaki" 帆立の磯辺焼き

We recently succumbed to one of the advertising emails we frequently get from Great-Alaska seafood. This time, the deal was 2 lbs each of wild sockeye salmon filet, colossal sea scallops and jumbo shrimp. Since the deal included three different seafoods, we thought we could handle it and ordered it. When the shipment arrived, I decided to try the scallops first. The scallops were a good size (so-called diver scallops) and nicely coated with a thin layer of ice so the outside would be protected while they thawed. I defrosted 4 scallops uncovered on a plate in the refrigerator. Interestingly, the ice coating remained intact even as the scallop itself got soft and thawed. Since I only thawed 4 to try, I made a classic Japanese snack that goes well with sake and is often served at sushi-bars 寿司や called "Hotate-no-Isobe-yaki" 帆立の磯辺焼. Whenever "Iso-be", meaning  ”near the rocky beach", is used in Japanese culinary parlance, it is a dish containing "nori" seaweed, either grilled "isobe-yaki" or fried "isobe-age" 磯辺揚げ. In this case,  it was a scallop sautéed and wrapped in nori.  At a sushi-bar, sometimes this would be handed directly to you by the sushi chef. It is literally a finger food conveyed to your mouth with your fingers as shown in the picture below--then "chomp".

The scallops are usually marinaded with soy sauce based marinade. There appears to be quite a few variations on this theme. I used a mixture of mirin and soy sauce and marinated the scallops for 10-15 minutes before cooking. Since two of the scallops were rather thick, I halved them producing 3 portions per serving. I served them with sheets of nori.

Ingredients: (for two servings of small appetizer like above)
4 scallops
Nori sheet cut into small rectangles or use packaged seasoned nori.

Marinade:
1 tbs each of soy sauce and mirin.
1 tbs unsalted butter for frying

Directions:
Place the scallops and the marinade in a small Ziploc bag (I used a sandwich bag), remove the air as much as you can and place in the refrigerator for 15 or so minutes (I am sure longer marination will not hurt). Removed from marinade and blot the excess (below).

Melt the butter and cook the scallops for 1-2 minutes each until browned (below). Add 1 -2 tsp of the marinade to the pan and put on the lid for 30 seconds. When the marinade slightly reduces, coat the scallops with sauce. Try not to over cook. (If using sashimi quality fresh scallops, the center could be raw).

Sandwich between the folded nori sheet and enjoy.

This was really good. The quality of scallops are really good. they were sweet, soft and moist. Perfect drinking snack for cold sake.

Scallop curry in a pouch レトルト帆立カレー

Japanese are quite fond of curry. It was said the original Japanese curry was first served on Japanese Navy ships and is based on English modifications to Indian curry. Now, in Japan, many curry restaurants have proliferated including ones serving very authentic regional curries such as those in India, Thailand, and Nepal in addition to Japanese style curry. Japanese have three choices if they want to eat curry at home; 1. make it from scratch using authentic methods and spices, 2. Use commercial "curry roux" which is readly available and 3. or heat up Curry-in-a-pouch which is called "retoruto-kare" レトルトカレー.  Food-in-a-pouch or "retort pouch" / "retortable pouch" was initially developed by the US military to replace canned or bottled food, reduce the weight and waste and also to make a meal-ready-to-eat (MRE) that could be heated quickly. It was also used during space travel. In the US, food-in-a-retort pouch did not become very popular among the general populace, perhaps, because of the widespread use of frozen food. But, in Japan,  curry-in-a-pouch has been extremely popular. One servings of curry comes in a pouch and the price ranges for $1 to $10 encompassing mass-produced cheap varieties to high-end varieties with a restaurant's or hotel's name attached to it. In recent years, another category of curry-in-pouch called "gotouchi kare" ご当地カレー is getting popular. There are even specialized websites from which you can buy quite interesting varieties of "locale-specific" or "Gotouchi" curry. We recently ate one such example which was sent to us as part of my mother's New Year "care" package. This one was scallop curry from Hokkaido. I added shrimp, blanched green beans and broccoli. Of course, I also served Japanese curry condiments "rakyo" ラッキョウ and "fukishin-zuke" 福神漬け.

The curry contained a goodly number of scallops which were nice and tender but I am not sure it added anything substantial to the curry. The curry roux was moderately hot and had nice flavors and texture. My wife added yogurt to dampen the heat (and also because she just likes yogurt in her curry.)

This seafood curry in a pouch came from "Sato suisan" 佐藤水産 or Sato seafood in Sapporo.  I found out that, beside selling Hokkaido seafood products, this company also runs seafood restaurants with one located near the opening of Ishikari river 石狩川 called "Old River" restaurant. This curry is supposedly from this restaurant using fresh Hokkaido vegetables and seafood (two varieties of seafood curry are available;  scallop 帆立 or sea whelk  ツブ) without animal fat or meat.

As per the directions on the back of he package, I boiled the pouch in water for 5 minutes. They also recommend adding cooked (sautéed in butter) vegetables.

I thawed uncooked shell-on shrimp, cleaned and sautéed them in butter with blanched green beans and broccoli seasoned with salt and pepper.

We shared one pouch between the two of us and put it over rice  (pre-cooked frozen rice microwaved to thaw). The scallop was tender and the roux had nice heat, texture, and flavors albeit not particularly special. (My wife thought it tasted very similar to the curry I make with Japanese curry roux, although this curry doesn't include any animal products but the roux does). Certainly this is a very convenient  way to  enjoy curry at home.

My mothers package also included the "whelk" curry in-a-pouch which tasted very similar to the scallop curry but with the inclusion of "rubber tire" chewy whelk. My wife "graciously" passed all the welk she could find in her dish to me--even the one she had been unsuccessfully chewing on for awhile.