Mapo (mabo) Tofu 麻婆豆腐

Mapo tofu 麻婆豆腐 is a very popular dish in Japan and is called “Mabo tofu”. The Japanese version with which I am familiar is quite different from the original Sichuan 四川 dish. Now, however, even in Japan, authentic mapo tofu appears very much appreciated using Sichuan peppercorn 花椒 and touban-jan or douban-jan 豆板醤 as the main spices. These spices produce a “spicy hot” and “numbing” taste—we are not great fans of “spicy” and “numbing”. I have not made this dish for some time. Since I got a fairly decent medium firm tofu from Weee, I decided to make this dish. It is sort of an amalgamation of the authentic and Japanese styles. I used a small amount of touban-jan so that it is not too spicy for my wife and I added more to my serving later. Instead of using Sichuan peppers, I just sprinkled Japanese pepper powder or kona-sansho* 粉山椒 just before serving. I think this turned out OK and we had this over rice for lunch one day.

*Digression alert: Sansho 山椒 or Japanese pepper is from a shrub closely related to but different from the Sichuan pepper plant. Japanese use the young leaves from this plant as a garnish/herb called “kinome” 木の芽 which has a very nice almost citrusy smell. The unripe fruit is used in many Japanese simmered dishes but does not have the tongue “numbing” characteristic of the mature plant. The mature and dried fruit from the Japanese pepper plant is ground into a powder called “Kona-sansho” 粉山椒 which is available in a small jar in Japanese/Asian grocery stores. It is regularly used on grilled eel dishes with sauce or “unagi-no-kabayaki” うなぎの蒲焼. It is not spicy hot and imparts a very unique flavor but, in large quantities, sansho powder does have a “numbing” effect similar to its Chinese counter part.

Ingredients:
One tofu block (I used medium firm), cut into small cubes, blanched for a few minutes and drained
2 tbs peanut oil
1 tsp minced ginger
1 tsp minced garlic
1 tsp minced shallot
1 tsp touban-jan
1 tbs miso mixed with 1 tbs mirin (in lieu of tenmen-jan 甜面醤, Chinese sweet soybean paste)
1/2 cup low sodium chicken broth
1/3 tsp dark sesame oil
2 stalks of scallion, chopped
150 grams ground pork (I used hand chopped trimming of pork)
Japanese sansho powder, to taste
1/2 tsp potato starch mixed with 1 tsp water or sake (potato starch slurry)

Directions:
Place the wok on high flame and add the oil. When hot, add the ginger and shallot. Stir for 30 seconds, add the garlic stir for another 30 seconds. Add the touban-jan and stir for another 30 seconds or until fragrant.
Add the pork and cook for one minute or until done.
Add the drained tofu and gently toss
Add the chicken broth, miso mixture. Add more chicken broth if needed.
When the mixture starts boiling add the scallion and sesame oil. Stir for 30 seconds
Mix in the starch slurry and cook until bubbly
Sprinkle the sansho powder and serve

This was just right for us. I added a bit more touban-jan to my serving. The power of Japanese pepper added its unique flavor without numbing the tongue. A few days later, we had the leftover mapo tofu as a rice bowl or donburi. Since I had a pasteurized egg, I made a slightly undercooked scrambled egg as a topping. I also added blanched sugar snaps.

In this dish, since it had been a day or so after the dish was made, the spices further melded together and got more tame and multi dimensional. Overall the flavors were great.

Cherry Blossoms in Full Bloom 桜の満開

 The young Somei Yoshino 染井吉野 cherry tree in our backyard, which replaced the over 30 some year old cherry tree that was destroyed in the 20218 Nor’easter is in full bloom. Like many of the other cherry trees in the area this has occurred much earlier than usual. As a matter of fact, the Washington National cherry blossom festival was moved up a week because of the uncharacteristic early bloom. 

As you can see he is getting bigger than he was in 2018 as shown in the picture below. 

As you can see the blossoms are now visible while sitting comfortably on the deck. 

What a profusion of beauty! The blossoms positively glow in the morning light. 

We will do some impromptu “Hanami” 花見 this evening.

Lily Bulb 百合根

I keep finding Japanese groceries at Weee  which previously were just not available or difficult to get. This time, it was “edible lily bulb”*. The package states “this is a product of China”. So, initially, I was not sure this item would be the same as Japanese “Yuri-ne” 百合根 but decided to try it anyway. Growing up in Hokkaido 北海道, Japan, which is the major producer of edible lily bulbs in Japan, my family enjoyed “yuri-ne” often. Most commonly, my mother made chawan-mushi 茶碗蒸し or Japanese steamed savory egg custard with yuri-ne lily bulb. I remember the nice texture and sweet flavor of yuri-ne. So it is a very nostalgic flavor for me that I have not tasted in a very long time. It arrived fresh in a vacuum packed container. It looked exactly like Japanese “yuri-ne and (better yet) tasted the same.

Although the package indicated “slices”, the lily bulbs are made of petal-like multiple layers which can come apart especially after blanching (see below). I would have preferred a whole intact bulb since that would have given me more choices in how to prepare it but this will do for sure.

*Digression alert: There is a myth that all lily bulbs are toxic which apparently may be based on the fact that any part of lily is highly toxic to cats (inducing renal failure). Also, the name “lily” is attached to many plants/flowers which are not “true” lily.  Some of these certainly would be toxic to humans. In any case, Japanese and Chinese (reportedly also native American Indians) enjoy eating lily bulbs.

I made three dishes; “chawan-mushi” 百合根入り茶碗蒸し(center bottom), bainiku-ae 百合根の梅肉和え (dressed in pickled plum sauce, upper left) and goma-ae 百合根の胡麻和え (dressed in sesame sauce, upper right). I also served lotus root kimpira “renkon-no-kimpira 蓮根のきんぴら(left bottom) and “ohitashi” edible chrysanthemum or “shungiku-no-ohitashi” 春菊のお浸し (right bottom). The fresh lotus root and edible chrysanthemum both came from Weee.

The picture below shows the chawan-mushi made with yuri-ne, topped with ikura salmon roe and blanched sugar snap. You cannot see the yuri-ne well but two are peaking out on either side of the ikura.

The next picture shows the chawan-mushi before the toppings were put on. I put the yuri-ne on the bottom as well as on the top. Other items included fresh shiitake mushroom, and shrimp as usual. The egg and dashi mixture was my usual 1 to 3 ratio. There is no difference in how to make it from standard other chawan-mushi.

For next two dishes, I quickly blanched the yuri-ne, drained it and let it cool before proceeding.

One pickled “umeboshi” plum, meat removed and then chopped fine with  a knife, then placed in a Japanese “suri-bachi” mortal, 1/2 tsp mirin added, 1/2 soy sauce and ground to make a smooth paste. I added “kezuri bushi” bonito flakes (the amount arbitrary). I added more bonito flakes on the top.

The below picture shows yuri-ne with sesame dressing.

For sesame dressing:
1tsp white roasted sesame, dry roasted in a dry frying pan and then ground in a suri-bachi
2 tsp white sesame paste or “shiro neri-goma” 白ねりごま
1 tsp rice vinegar
1 tsp sugar

I garnished it with blanched sugar snap

These small dishes were nice and Weee made it possible for me to make these. These were quite filling but we also had a small serving of blue-fine tuna sashimi (frozen Australian from Great Alaska Seafood). The chawan-mushi was particularly special since it brought back good memories of the chawan-mushi my mother used to make.

Early Hanami 早めの花見

We presently have four cherry trees in our backyard; 3 Japanese style trees and one native choke cherry tree. (The choke cherry tree blooms in late spring with lovely veils of white flowers). There was already one mature cherry tree on the property when we moved in over 30 years ago but we planted two additional cherry trees, so we could have spectacular Hanami celebrations in our own yard. While they provided beautiful flowers and shade for many years neither of them survive today. One never did well and remained stunted for the 20 years of its life. While doing some construction in 2010 we discovered the reason. The poor thing was planted over a giant cement jersey wall such as those used to block traffic on a highway. Unbeknownst to us, and to our utter surprise and horror, the builders had used objects such as that as land fill in our backyard. The poor tree had nowhere to plant its feet so it could thrive. After seeing its circumstances we were amazed it even survived as long as it did. The other cherry tree was more fortunate. We apparently planted it in a more favorable spot and it did very well. It formed a large canopy over our deck and was our main cherry tree for hanami but, it reached its demise in 2018 at the hands of a severe Nor’easter wind. So in the face of this cherry tree devastation, we planted a new cherry tree to replace it. This tree is getting taller but does not yet quite match the grandeur of the destroyed old tree it replaced. Meanwhile, 30 some years ago soon after we moved into the house, I was cleaning out a patch of our backyard heavily overgrown with weeds and thick vines when I came across tiny twig of a tree and recognized it was a very young very small volunteer (i.e. not planted but rooted naturally) cherry tree.  I carefully saved it and nurtured it. Now it is over 2 stories tall. (Shown in the pictures below.)  This cherry tree is perfectly positioned to get full sun in the morning and full sun in the evening this time of year. As a result, it is the first of our cherry trees to bloom in the spring. This year spring came early and this cherry tree is in full bloom in Mid March. To celebrate, we had an early Hanami. Because of the location of the tree, it is most visible from the one of the rooms on the second floor. So despite the cold weather and strong winds of the last few days, we were still able enjoy an early Hanami in the comfort of the warm house. 

We will post more details later but we had five dishes for our early Hanami. Three were made from some newly acquired edible lily bulbs, as well as dishes of edible chrysanthemum and lotus root. Luckily daylight saving time kicked in just last Sunday, so sunset comes later than before increasing the time we have to enjoy the cherry blossoms. Even at sunset, however, the cherry blossoms characteristically glow in the ambient light which is always beautiful to see.

Soda Bread with Raisin, Craisin, and Caraway (Soda Bread V4)

Over the years my wife has baked various versions of Irish soda bread. This year my wife initially baked version #3 of Irish soda bread, which was by far our favorite, in preparation for the upcoming St. Paddy’s day. This bread was really great especially with the honey butter she spread on it after a light toasting. I, then, found a recipe called “Americanized Irish soda bread” in the Washington Post which looked interesting and told her about it. She baked this as Irish soda bread (Americanized) version #4. This bread was very good—on a par with version #3 but with a subtly different taste. It had great texture and was slightly sweet from the inclusion of raisins and craisins (dried cranberries).

As usual, my wife modified the recipe mainly due to ingredients we did not have.

Ingredients:
2 cups mixture of raisin and craisins, (substituted for currents called for in the original recipe.)
6 cups (750 grams) all-purpose flour, plus more as needed
3/4 cup (150 grams) granulated sugar
3 tablespoons caraway seeds
1 tablespoon baking powder
2 teaspoons baking soda
3/4 teaspoon fine salt
2 cups (480 milliliters) whole buttermilk
8 tablespoons (4 ounces/113 grams) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
1/2 cup (120 milliliters) heavy cream
1 large egg
1 tablespoon vegetable oil

Directions:
Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 375 degrees. Line a large, rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
In a very large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, caraway seeds, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Scatter the dried fruits into the flour and fold them in with a flexible spatula until evenly distributed.
Whisk together the buttermilk, melted butter, cream, egg and the oil until combined. Pour into the flour mixture.
First using a spatula and then hands, stir and mix the dough together. (The original recipe says, “do not use a mixer”.) The dough should be slightly wet but not gloppy. Add a bit more flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, if the dough feels too wet and is spreading. Re-flour your hands and gently knead the dough, turning and folding it over itself, just until it is somewhat firmer, sprinkling more flour on your hands or the work surface as needed. Try not to add too much more flour to the dough.
Divide the dough in half, shaping each portion into a round loaf 5½ to 6 inches in diameter, positioning any seams on the bottom. Do not flatten the loaves, making sure they are shaped more like mounds.
Place the loaves several inches apart on the prepared baking sheet (they will spread a little) but not up against the rim. Use a lame to gently score an X no more than ¼- to ½-inch deep into the top of each loaf (see picture below).

Bake for 50 to 60 minutes, rotating the baking sheet from front to back halfway through, until the loaves are nicely browned and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. The loaves should also sound hollow when tapped on the bottom (see picture below). Cool completely on a wire rack

Among the 4 versions of soda breads, we like the version 3 and 4 the best.

Pork Curry Quesadilla ポークカレー ケサディア

This was a lunch of impromptu quesadilla made using left-over pork “Vindaloo” curry. My wife’s recent modifications to this curry included the addition of navy beans which makes a richer creamer sauce. We had the curry with rice for lunch several times and only a small amount of curry was left—not enough to make two servings of curry and rice for lunch. My wife suggested we make curry quesadilla. I had one over-ripe avocado which I had to use before it went bad so I made a sort of guacamole. The resulting lunch, consisted of a pork curry and three cheese quesadilla topped with avocado and sour cream. This was really great.

Traditional quesadilla is made from one corn tortilla which is folded in half. We like to use two wheat tortillas which is more convenient for us.

I did not have fresh cilantro but made something resembling guacamole. I also served sesame (udon) noodle salad and celery salad with mushrooms, white beans and feta salad.

We keep tortillas frozen. I removed two and layered them with paper towels to absorb any water from the ice crystals which usually form on their surface.  I microwaved them for 10 seconds. I then heated some oil in the frying pan on medium heat until hot and shimmering then briefly fried both sides of the tortillas. Again using paper towels I blotted off any excess oil.  I turned down the heat, placed one warm tortilla in the pan, and spread the curry on top; it was just the right amount.

I scattered shredded (actually hand chopped) cheeses on top. They included two kinds of cheddar (“sharp” and one actually called “Seriously Sharp”) and smoked gouda. I placed the other tortilla on the top. I cooked this with lid on for several minutes until the cheese melted. I removed the lid and turned the tortilla over and cooked an additional 1-2 minutes. This was a nice quesadilla if not authentic. The flavor of the curry blended perfectly with the guacamole. The tortilla was nice and crunchy. Also, you can’t go wrong with 3 melted cheese flavors and a topping of sour cream. This was a mighty fine lunch.

Celery Salad with Mushrooms, White Beans and Feta きのこ、白インゲン豆、フェタチーズ入りセロリサラダ

We keep celery on hand most of the time. I use it as a part of mirepoix for soup, stew etc. I also use it for salad. Our favorite is thinly sliced celery dressed in powdered kelp and salt called “Konbu-cha” 昆布茶. My wife told me that she came across 5 different celery recipes recently in the Washington Post. We decide to try this celery with mushrooms, white beans and feta. Not intentional but I made some modifications due to available ingredients as well as time constraints. We had this for lunch.

We added a half open-face pumpernickel sandwich using leftover slices of Weber grill roasted pork. I added omelet from an egg I had left over from another dish. This made a really good lunch.

Ingredients:
4-5 stalks of celery, strings removed and cut thinly on bias
1 (15.5 oz) can of white (navy) beans, drained and rinsed (the original recipe calls for 1 cup or 8oz but we used the whole can)
Mushrooms (I used fresh shiitake and oyster mushrooms, the original calls for 12 oz cremini mushrooms), the shiitake (this was quite thick and meaty), cut into quarters, the oyster mushrooms torn into bite sized pieces.
Feta cheese crumbled and to taste

Dressing:
2tbs minced shallot (one small)
2 tablespoons rice vinegar (or winevinegar)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
3⁄4 teaspoon sugar
1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Directions:
Marinate the celery and the beans in the dressing for 30 minutes (Picture below)

Sauté the mushrooms in a small amount of olive oil in a frying pan seasoned with salt and pepper until cooked with brown spots about 4-5 minutes (using medium high flame so that no moisture comes out and the mushrooms nicely brown instead of steam). (The original recipe calls for roasting them in the oven at 375 for 40 minutes but browning in the pan goes a lot faster).

Assembly:
Chopped fresh herbs (mint, dill and parsley) (we did not have any of fresh herbs so did not use it) mixed into the marinading celery and beans.
Top the salad with the mushrooms and crumbled feta.

We would not ever have thought of this combination of the ingredients for a salad. For the dressing, the taste profile is very similar to the house dressing I make with Dijon mustard, honey, rice vinegar and olive oil. In future we may used my house dressing instead; the mustard makes the dressing emulsify beside adding flavors and honey is better than sugar to add sweetness. We think cooking the  mushrooms in a frying pan is better than roasting them. Roasting takes much longer and often produces charred bits which we do not like but sautéing in a frying pan produces better browned and crispy mushrooms. Although we did not have fresh herbs, this was a good salad. The mushrooms gave a meaty flavor and texture and this is good dish for our vegetarian friends.