Chestnut kakiage 栗のかき揚げ

One more dish made from North American chestnuts. This time I made “Kakiage” かき揚げ with onions and chestnuts.

Chestnuts: I prepared the chestnuts the same way as before. In brief, I boiled them and removed the outer and inner skins while they were still hot. For kakiage, you can use fragmented chestnuts.
Onion: Since I did not have any other vegetables such as carrot or gobou (burdock root), I just used sliced onion (halved first and then thinly sliced. The amount is totally arbitrary. You could add other items.
Batter: I lightly salted the sliced onion first and then sprinkled on cake flour and let it sit for 30 minutes so that the moisture from the onion came out.  To make this kakiage a bit richer I added one egg yolk (optional) and more cake flour and cold water and mixed. I tried to make a rather thin tempura batter.

In a deep frying pan, I added fresh vegetable oil and heated it to 350F on medium flame. When the oil was hot, I placed a flat disk of onion and chestnuts mixture using a slotted spoon (below). To make kakiage crispy, I fried it longer than I would usually fry tempura (5 minutes) and turned them over and kept frying for another 4-5 minutes until the edges of the onion were brown and crispy.

This is a good autumnal dish. The sweetness of the onion and chestnuts enhance each other with different textures. As usual, I served this with green tea salt and wedges of lemon.

Miso flavored omelet 味噌卵

I tried to make this once before. This time I properly used scallop shells to cook the dish. This one is better than the first attempt but still not as good as I remembered. (My mother's side grandfather used to make this dish in a large scollop shell when I was just a little kid).



The recipe is still evolving but essentially a mixture of  eggs and miso cooked in a scallop shell.
The two servings as you see below is made with one egg.

Miso: I used Saikyo miso 西京味噌 (1 tbs) and loosened the consistency by adding a small amount of mirin which also added more sweetness.

Egg: Since I was planning to serve the dish with the center not fully cooked, I used one pasteurized egg.

I beat the egg and added the miso mixture and also added finely chopped scallion.

On low flame, I started cooking the mixture (left) and stopped when the peripheral portions started cooking (right).

This was much better than my first attempt but the edges got cooked too much while the center was still liquid. I have to try further to perfect this.

G-sake Fifty and G-sake

A few years ago, we came across a good US brewed sake called G-sake "Joy" from SakeOne. Some time later we tasted a new batch of  "Momokawa" Silver and Diamond sake also from SakeOne. Recently we came across a new variation of G-sake called "G-sake fifty", so we had a mini tasting to compare G-Sake fifty with regular G-sake (they have apparently dropped "Joy" from the name).

To start the sake tasting, we needed "Otoushi" お通し. I could not come up with 6 otoushi like Suiko  酔香 or Shuhai 酒杯 so I settled for three (see below).

From left to right; Kinpira gobou きんぴらごぼう, Pork belly "Kakuni" 豚の角煮 and Chicken skin, pickled myouga and cucumber in Ponzu 雛皮，蛇腹胡瓜，茗荷のポン酢和え.

Here is a picture of the two G-sakes. Left is the original G-sake（yellow "G") and the right is G-sake fifty (Green "G").

The picture below shows what is written on the back of the of the G-sake Fifty bottle.

Again, what kind of rice they are using is a bit of a mystery but if I had to hazard a guess I would say that they must be using a combination of imported "Saka-mai" 酒米 from Japan and probably  "CalRose" rice from California. Since it has an affiliation with Momokawa shuzou 桃川酒造, it is possible the imported rice may be from Aomori prefecture 青森県.

We were quite excited about this tasting. We poured both G-sakes into clear glass sake cups (to see the colors of sake better); surprisingly G-sake was slightly turbid (see below right). (Yes the sake cup was clean so the turbidity is indeed the sake not the cup).  The G-sake fifty, as you can see in the picture was clear (below left). Both had a very similar flavor profile which is not unlike Momokawa Diamond but not as sweet and a bit more refined, especially "Fifty". It is a more savory sake with a slight sweetness In contrast the regular G-Sake was a bit sweeter.

Being "Genshu" 原酒 (or undiluted sake), the alcohol content was 18% which, (believe it or not) we felt, was a bit too high for our tastes. So, in conclusion, we were not as impressed as before when we tasted G-Sake "joy" 2 years ago. Of the two we tasted we liked G-Sake Fifty better but if you like this flavor profile, Momokawa Diamond is more readily available and less expensive, albeit sweeter.

Of course, more food is needed when tasting sake. Again, we had sashimi from Catalina Offshore. This batch was quite good. Especially the blue fin tuna; very nice "Chu-toro" 中トロ (left lower) and "Ko-toro" 小トロ (upper center). Hamachi ハマチ could have had more fat (Center lower) but had a nice texture and Uni ウニ was superb.

Since, as usual, I removed the almost pure fat layer which was closest to the skin, I made a dish which is a cross between "Negi-toro" ネギトロ and ”Namerou" なめろう (Dressed in Karashi-sumiso からし酢味噌 and finely chopped scallion) preparation. I used a small container we newly acquired from the pottery store in Nishiki Market.

Although both G-Sakes are quite drinkable, we still prefer "fruity" and "clean" as oppose to "savory" and "sweet" tastes in sake. We  still prefer our house-sake "Mu" over either G-Sake.

Uni-Ikura donburi うにいくら丼

When I posted Eki-ben 駅弁 or station bento box, I mentioned my wife was disappointed because she could not get her favorite eki-ben from Hakodate; they are "Ikura bento" イクラ弁当 and "Uni-Ikura bento" ウニイクラ弁当 because our train connection to Sapporo was very tight due to the delay of our train to Hakodate. We did not have a time to buy eki-ben in Hakodate 函館.  After we came back to the U.S., she lamented the fact that she could not have  "Ikura and Uni bento". So, to appease her, I got uni (fresh) and ikura (frozen) from Catalina offshore products and made her Uni-ikura donburi.

The picture below is what she could have gotten in Hakodate but she did not.

(from https://www.jr-shop.hakodate.jp/mikado/product/product01.html).

This is what she got after coming home.

Since this was after eating some other goodies including toro sashimi トロ刺身 also from Catalina, I made a small donburi.

Ikura: I first thaw Ikura in the refrigerator over night. I then added a mixture of sake and soy sauce (equal amount), mixed and let it sit in the refrigerator over night in a sealed plastic container. The ikura swelled up absorbing the seasoning by the next day.

Uni: This is straight from the tray of California Gold uni from Catalina.

I first put the "sushi meshi" 寿司飯 on the bottom of the bowl, I then scattered thin strips of nori. I then topped the rice with uni and seasoned ikura. I could have added golden thread omelet or "kinshiran" 金糸卵.

As a consolation prize, this was not too bad. My wife said she was quite thrilled and satisfied to finally get her Uni-ikura donburi.

“Eki Ben” 駅弁

When we go to Japan, there are several things we really enjoy (beside going places and seeing our friends and family, of course). The first is visiting Izakaya and tasting all the good food and sake. The second is riding trains (we always get Japan rail passes). The third is eating “bento” 弁当 or more specifically "Eki-Ben" 駅弁 "station bento" boxes while riding trains. We did not do as many bentos as we would have liked but here the ones we tried.

One kind of bento which is rather universal either at the train station or the basement floor of department stores (“Depa-chika” デパ地下) called “Makunouchi Bento” 幕の内弁当 which originated from a bento boxes served at the Kabuki theater between performances. Now, among the bento boxes sold at train stations, makunouchi bento is very common and popular. It is offered at different prices and sizes but, essentially, it consists of many small compartments that include cooked fish, meat, vegetables, and rice.



This is the one we had while riding the shikansen 新幹線 train from Tokyo 東京 to Kyoto 京都. This was one of the small makunouchi. The left side is molded rice which is very common in makunouchi which makes picking up rice with chopsticks easy.



Below is an example of a much larger makunouchi bento which we had when we were riding from Kyoto to Tokyo. There are many more compartments than the previous example and the rice in different preparations was in five of the compartments including Inari いなり寿司 (left middle compartment).


Of course, train riding is thirsty work so some libation goes well with bento. I was a bit disappointed that many kiosks carried different kinds of beer, shochu cocktails, or whisky but sake was either not available or the selection was very limited. Obviously the preference of Japanese people has changed.

At a kiosk on the shinkansen platform in Tokyo, however, I found some fairly good sake (left) from Nada 灘 (near Kobe 神戸). We think the ultimate is riding a train in comfortable seats, watching the scenery go by, while tasting so many different food items from the bento box and sipping good sake. (one of the reasons we don’t ride the nozomi, even if we could using our Japan rail pass, is because the scenery flashes by so fast we cant watch it without getting dizzy.) The only problem is that the train rides seem to end too soon.

To fix this problem, we rode a scenic well-appointed tourist train which runs from Akita 秋田 to either Hirosaki 弘前 or Aomori 青森 via a local track called "Gonou-sen" 五能線 along the beautiful coast line facing the Sea of Japan north of Akita called “Resort Shirakami” リゾート白神. While the same trip (between Akita and Hirosaki using Oou line 奥羽本線) can be made by conventional train in 2 hours, this tourist train took over 5 hours from Akita to Hirosaki,

The below was the bento we had during the ride. This came in an imitation “Wappa” わっぱ bento box which, in original form, is  made of thin Japanese cedar bent into the shape of a bento box. Of course, this was made of plastic (below right).



The content was “seasoned rice” with a specific local chicken from the Akita area called “Hinai” ji-dori. 比内地鶏.



The last bento boxes shown below were ones that we had while riding the train from Hakodate 函館 to Sapporo 札幌. Our train from Aomori 青森 to Hakodate was delayed for no apparent reason (very unusual for Japanese trains) and the train from Hakodate to Sapporo actually had to wait for the connecting passengers (Us!). Although we usually have time to buy Eki-ben at Hakodate station (my wife really likes their “ikura-uni” bento), we had just enough time to transfer from one train to the other at a dead run dragging our luggage behind us--so shopping for bentos was out of the question. (That was the first time we almost missed a connection in Japan due to delays). So we had to get bento on the train.

We knew from past experience that we could make a reservation from the train for a “Kanimeshi-bento” かにめし弁当 or "crab rice bento" from Oshiamanbe 長万部 station. This is a rather famous bento and we wanted to try it. The idea is to make a reservation while  the train is heading to Oshiamanbe station. The reserved bento boxes are made just in time to meet the train when it stops. 

During this train ride we were attended by a very pleasant lady concierge. (Even though she had the responsibility of checking tickets she still had to serve tea.) She brought us a cold drink and paper slippers as soon as we boarded. She then took orders for lunch including the reservation of “Kanimeshi”. As the train left Oshamanbe station she delivered the bentos to our seats; Americans just don’t know the meaning of service until they’ve experienced it in Japan.

In any case, we had this famous crab rice bento (below). It was a bit disappointing. After all the hype we were expecting a luscious box with big chunks of crab. Instead, the crab meat was very finely ground and dry. It was seasoned sort of sweet and salty. The rice was still warm indicating that it had just been packed but this was not worth the effort and the price. The meat had very little crab flavor; it could have been any dry tasteless fish meat. It was certainly not the best bento we had on the trip—the other bento box we got along with the crab box was much better.



We also got an ekiben which was apparently originated in Hakodate station (below) called “San-kai iro-iro gohan” 山海いろいろごはん meaning “Items from mountains and the sea rice bento”



As you can see, items from mountains (small bamboo shoot, shiitake, “fuki”) and from the sea (scallop, salmon roe, kelp roll, fish cake) and other items topped the seasoned rice. For us, this was much better choice.



We knew that the JR Hokkaido and Hakodate line 函館本線 had been plagued with problems. During our ride to Sapporo 札幌, we were concerned about the way the train frequently lurched violently from side to side. My wife actually turned to me and said, “ If this doesn’t let up we could de-rail.” Two days later there was a derailment of a freight train on the same line (no one was hurt). The Hokodate line was closed for several days. My wife’s prognosis apparently was correct. We feel we were lucky. We hope things improve for JR Hokkaido.

New small containers and Walnut "shira-ae" tofu 新しい珍味入れとクルミの白和え

Every time we visit Japan, we shop in Kappabashi 合羽橋 in Tokyo and Nishiki market 錦市場 in Kyoto and buy some kitchen and table wares. The below is one such a purchase at Nishiki market. We bought similar items before from the same store called "Kawazen pottery" 河善陶器. They are tiny covered vessels in which "rare" tastes or "Chin-mi" 珍味 can be served. This time the proprietor suggested we get larger base (the little black tray divided into square compartments. He said that make everything a bit more "luxurious" (and we tend to agree with him.)
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So, one evening after we came back to the U.S., I made a few small dishes and served them in these newly acquired containers.



From left to right; Daikon Namsu with "Jako" 大根なます雑魚添え, Shira-ae with cantaloupe and walnuts メロンとクルミの白和え, and "Komochi megabu" 子持ちめかぶ.



This is my attempt at reproducing one of the otoshi items at Suiko. I promised my wife that I would make a similar dish. Since Persimmon was not yet available around here, I used cantaloupe instead.

Tofu: I used silken tofu (1/4). I placed it on a paper towel lined plate and microwaved it for 30 seconds to remove excess water and let it cool down to room temperature.

White sesame seeds and white sesame seed paste: I used the combination. I first dry roasted white sesame seeds (1/2 tbs, this one was already roasted but I briefly re-roasted using a small dry frying pan). Do not over do it since it will give the seeds color making shira-ae (literally means "white" dressing) not white. I ground the roasted sesame seeds in a Japanese mortar (suribachi すり鉢) until pasty and then added store-bought sesame paste (1/2 tbs). I then added miso (2/3 tbs, or to you taste) and the tofu and mixed it until it became a nicely smooth paste. I tasted and adjust the seasoning by adding more miso if needed.

Cantaloupe and walnut: Since I did not have a persimmon, I cut up a cantaloupe melon in to small cubes (amount arbitrary) and coarsely chopped roasted walnuts. I garnished with larger pieces of walnut pieces on the top.

Although, persimmon shira-ar is rather standard, the addition of walnuts really added to the taste and contrast in texture and this was a good variation of this dish.



This was my "sokuseki" 即席 or "instant or quick" version of "daikon namasu" 大根なます .



This was a packaged and frozen product. "Mekabu" めかぶ is a portion of "wakame" 若布 seaweed closed to the attachment. The eggs are Capelin eggs.

The tofu and cantaloupe was a good facsimile of the one we had in Japan. These containers look nice and we enjoyed our house sake "Mu" with these small drinking snacks.

Chestnuts with somen noodle crust 栗のコッロケのいがぐり揚げ

Besides matsutake 松茸, chestnuts 栗 are a classic symbol of autumn. Every year, we get whatever remained of North American Chestnuts from California. Same as matsutake dishes, I almost exhausted what I can make from chestnuts but I came up with a variation of the chestnuts croquet.



This is same as the chestnut croquet but instead of bread crumbs, I used broken thin Japanese noodles or so-men 素麺. As you can see above, it resembles the spiky outer layer or "Iga" いが or 毬 of chestnuts (sort of). This is mostly for appearance rather than taste.



When you cut into it whole chestnuts appears.

To make it, (I am repeating the previous post).

Chestnuts: The best way to removed the hard outer skin is to do it while it is hot after boiling. I took one out at a time and keep the rest in the hot water in which the chestnuts were cooked. I removed the outer skin by cutting the bottom of the chestnut (mostly skin part) and then peeling off the outer skin or "onikawa" 鬼皮. The outer skin is easy to remove (except that the chestnut is very hot). The inner textured skin or "shibukawa" 渋皮” is more difficult to remove. Especially for Northern American chestnuts, the inner skin goes deep into the crevasses of the nut. Sometimes pulling up will release it or more often, the nuts break apart. We did about 20 chestnuts and 9 came out whole and other 11 were fragmented.

I placed the fragmented chestnuts (11) into a small food processor and pulsed it to break down the chestnuts and then added milk. I gradually added milk as I ran the processor until a chestnut paste is formed  (upper left and right below). I added a pinch of salt as well. The paste was stiff enough that the traces of the tines of a fork remained on the surface.

I moistened my hands and covered each whole chestnut with the chestnut paste (right lower).


For regular croquets, I dredged with flour, egg water and panko bread crumbs. For this preparation, instead of panko bread crumbs, I broke up the dried somen noodle in small segments (about1 inch or less) and coated the croquets. I just deep fried them in 350F oil for several minutes or until the somen noodles were golden brown.