Uni shutou with salmon roe 雲丹酒盗いくら入り

The last time we bought fresh uni from Maruhide 丸秀, we also got a few “uni shutou” 雲丹酒盗including one with salmon roe 雲丹酒盗いくら入り which was a new choice for us. So, one weekend evening, I served this with our usual squid shiokara イカの塩辛. I also served chawanmushi 茶碗蒸し and simmered Kabocha squash カボチャの煮物. These were nice starters.

Left in the picture below is uni shutou with ikura. Obviously, this is a great combination and we, especially my wife, loves uni-ikura donburi ウニいくら丼. Right is our usual squid shiokara. Both are perfect for sipping sake, although you do not need much, just a bit of taste to go with sake.

I served this chawanmushi cold. I often top this with ikura or uni or both but not this time. I made the dish with shrimp and chicken in addition to shiitake. I added scallion and sugar-snap towards the end of cooking.

The picture below shows simmered Japanese kabocha squash カボチャの煮物. It’s a classic.

This was great start of the evening and the combination of uni and ikura shutou is definitely a favorite.

Pirogi ピロギ

One day, my wife made these pirogi. She was inspired after reading a recipe in the Washington Post at the start of the Russian war with Ukraine for Ukrainian "pierogi". Somehow this triggered a memory of the pirogi she used to eat as a young child. They were part of special family dinners out, in the summer, after an afternoon spent swimming. In rural Pennsylvania, at that time, dinner out often consisted of stopping at the local Tastee Freez and consuming your purchases in the car in the parking lot. (According to my wife, at least the scenery overlooking the beautiful Pennsylvania farmland from the parking lot was quite nice.) For some reason, this Tastee Freez sold food items other than just ice cream; one of which was pierogi. My wife clearly remembers how good they tasted, particularly when she was hungry after an afternoon of swimming. 

(Note from me: Just to bring the record up to date, I researched Tastee Freez and there are presently none located in PA. In addition, pirogi are not on the menu of those not located in PA.). (Note from wife: I was very young when we ate there. On reflection, maybe it was a Dairy Queen). (Note from me: There are lots of Dairy Queens in PA  but like Tastee Freez they don’t serve pirogi.) (Definitive note from wife’s older sister: It was not a Tastee Freez or Dairy Queen, it was a privately run food stand that subsequently went out of business and yes their pirogies were great.) (Note from wifey and me: Oh!)

In any case, my wife again raided my stash of gyoza/wonton skins instead of making the dough from scratch. I tasted the pirogi just boiled and it was quite good although the "cheese" flavors didn’t come through strongly. (My wife told me that she added a lot of cheeses). I recently saw a recipe for Japanese gyoza made basically by filling gyoza skins with potato salad. This sounds like a Japanese version of pirogi. Maybe, I should try this recipe. In any case, as a shime/ending dish one evening I cooked the pirogi my wife made in the style of ravioli. I made a quick tomato sauce from skinned Campari tomatoes and shallots.  I garnished with chopped fresh parsley and grated parmesan cheese. For good measure, I drizzled on some of our favorite Spanish olive oil. This was very carbo-intensive but tasted very good and was certainly rather filling.

The recipe is from Washington post. I am sure my wife modified the recipe. So I will ask her to take over.

Ingredients:
2 russet potatoes
4-6 tablespoons unsalted butter (or to taste)
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped and caramelized in a sauce pan.
2 cups of shredded sharp cheese (I used a combination of smoked gouda, Monterey Jack and Irish cheddar)
Salt to taste
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Chopped fresh chives, dill or scallions, for garnish (optional)
1/2 package (about 20) gyoza skins

Directions:
To make the filling: Cook the potatoes, skin on, in the micro wave (about 10 minutes). Peel and mash in a bowl adding all the other ingredients (#1).

To assemble the pierogi: Wet the edges of the wonton skin with water. Add about 1 tablespoon of the potato filling to the center of the Wonton skin. (I used the smallest ice cream scoop). Fold over the skin to enclose the potato mixture and press firmly to seal making sure there are no air pockets. (I used the handy-dandy presser (see picture below).

Repeat with the remaining dough and filling (#2). The pierogi can be frozen at this point.

To finish, bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Drop the pierogi in a few at a time, so as not to crowd the pot, gently stirring them so they don’t stick together (#3). Cook until they begin to bob to the surface, about 4 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon. Drain them on a rack (#4) While still hot coat with olive oil so they don’t stick together after they cool.

My wife admitted that while good, these pirogi were only vaguely reminiscent of the pirogi of her childhood. (Maybe an afternoon spent swimming is required seasoning for this dish?) Although the cheese flavor wasn’t pronounced, the overall flavor was very rich. The caramelized onions were very nice. Served this way with the tomato sauce, the pirogies were more like ravioli (can’t go wrong with that). 

Mini Lasagna cups ミニロザニアカップ

One day, all of a sudden, my wife asked if we still have wonton or gyoza skins. I said we had leftover gyoza skins frozen. I was not sure why she was asking this. I found out that she saw a recipe for “mini-lasagna cups” which uses wonton skins as the pasta. This is a good dish to make since I have been reheating my marinara sauce once a week for several weeks now to make it last. It was time to use it up. In any case, the picture below shows the mini-lasagna cups she made. They are perfect for a lunch or appetizer. The combination of flavors is very nice.

You can see the layers in the picture below; layers of ricotta cheese and spinach and alternating layers of marinara sauce (actually one time when I reheated it I put in chopped up cooked chicken) separated by the wonton skins. She ran out of the wonton skins and some of the lasagna cups ended up having a layer of Pennsylvania Dutch noodles instead. (Because she had those and hey, they are a form of pasta).

 

I am not sure where she saw this recipe but I’ll ask my wife to take over. (Note from wifey: I found the recipe in the Washington Post and as usual treated it as just advisory.)

Ingredients:
1 cup cooked spinach
1 cup ricotta cheese
1/2 tsp. salt
2 cups shredded cheese (I used a combination of dry mozzarella, smoked gouda and cheddar.)
1 1/2 cups husbandito’s marinara sauce
36 wonton skins (3 per 12 muffin cup tin)

Directions:
Mix the spinach, ricotta cheese and salt together. Put half of it in a separate bowl and stir in 1/2 of the shredded cheese. Fit a wonton skin into the bottom of a 12 cup muffin tin. (I used muffin papers to make it easier to get the finished product out but it turned out they weren’t necessary.) Evenly divide the ricotta spinach blend into each cup (#1). Fit another wonton skin on top. Spoon the marinara sauce on top (#2). Cover with another wonton skin. (Note that at this point I ran out of wonton skins so I used cooked pasta as shown in the left side of #3) Evenly divide the ricotta shredded cheese on top (#4). Top the mixture with remaining marinara sauce and grated cheese (#5). Cook in a 375 degree oven for 12 to 15 minutes until cheese on the top is melted, browned and bubbling (#6). 

These were a bit tedious to put together but they were worth it. They had all the satisfying complex flavor of a full lasagne with all the elegance of a single portion. They made a perfect lunch with a salad or a small bowl of soup. 

Home-made cream cheese 自家製クリームチーズ

 Recently there has been a shortage of cream cheese . For several weeks we tried to order cream cheese from our regular grocery store and found out all cream cheese and its derivative products were out of stock. Since making cheese has become my wife's thing, she decided to address this shortage the same way she addressed other shortages during covid by making her own. She searched the web for a cream cheese recipe. One thing she noticed was that the recipes for buttermilk on the web were basically ‘take milk and add acid (lemon juice, vinegar, etc). Then the recipes on the web for cream cheese were also basically ‘take milk and add acid.’ Huh? Acidulated milk is the panacea for all things cheesy on the net? She also noticed that other recipes involved such things as rennet or cream cheese cultures that she didn’t have. 

She decide to make her own recipe incorporating various aspects of the recipes she read and her own experience making cheese curd. The basic approach seemed to be combine milk and cream and curdle. She had success making cheese using buttermilk to curdle the milk so she decided to use a variation on that technique. For example, she saw that the rennet based recipes used a ratio of milk to cream of 4:1. She also used an approximation of the ratio of buttermilk to other ingredients that worked for the other cheese she made. She used those ratios to make the cheese (see the ingredients listed below). Then instead of pressing the curd as she did before, as per some of the recipes she read,  she whirred it in a food processor to make it creamy and the consistency of cream cheese. The result was really fantastic. If she can make this, we do not need to buy commercial cream cheese. The picture below is "schmear" of the cream cheese she made on a crumpet she also made. It was very good!

Ingredients:
8 cups whole milk

2 cups cream (I used light cream)

5 cups buttermilk

2 Tbs. salt

Directions.
Combine the ingredients in a large heavy bottomed pan. Slowly heat mixture until it starts to separate into curds and whey (#1). (This will start to happen just before the mixture reaches 212 degrees.) Remove from the heat and let rest for 10 minutes. Ladle the curds into a colander lined with 3 layers of cheese cloth (#2). Squeeze out as much whey as possible. Then add the curds to a food processor (I used a motorboat blender) and whir until the curds reach creamy consistency. Stir in salt to taste. The consistency will become thicker as the mixture cools. Spread a “schmear” on a piece of toast and enjoy. 

This cheese was very good. The taste of the cream really came through followed by a slight tanginess of the buttermilk. The flavor got better over the next few days. This tasted great on a cracker with a glass of wine.

Octopus and cucumber in sumiso dressing 蛸のぶつ切りと胡瓜の酢味噌あえ

This is nothing new; just a continuation of frozen and boiled Spanish octopus from Great Alaska Seafood. This is a good example of how an octopus leg cut can make a big difference in texture.  Boiled octopus can be sliced thinly with a wave cut or cut into chunks called "Butsu-giri" ぶつ切り. The cut that is used depends on the firmness of the cooked octopus meat. Firm texture octopus it is quite chewy. A thick slice would be too difficult to eat. The thin wave cut provides a manageably chewy piece and the wave pattern catches any sauce that is used. Alternatively if  the octopus meat is soft, the thinly slice wave cut doesn’t have any texture and basically dissolves when eaten so cutting it into chunks is the better choice. Since this octopus was a bit on the soft side, I opted for the chunky cut and made this classic "octopus and cucumber  sumiso-ae" 蛸のぶつ切りと胡瓜の酢味噌あえ. I served this with store bought squid shio-kara (right)

Since this octopus leg was more tender than ones from Japan, this "Butsu-giri" cut really worked. It is not too chewy but has nice texture.

Tender simmered octopus たこの柔らか煮

I have to admit that I really like octopus (tako) and am on a constant prowl to find places to get decent tako. I have gotten octopus from a few different places with varying success and I’ve cooked it several different ways over the years. Among the seafood vendors, recently, we have been getting fairly good frozen  seafood from  Great Alaska Seafood . This time, they were selling frozen Spanish octopus legs and we tried them. (At another time, they were also selling Alaskan octopus -uncooked and frozen- but we did not try it.) The legs were from Spanish octopus, boiled and frozen (see the picture 2nd from the last below). It came as 4 pounds of octopus in 8 half pound vacuumed sealed packages. After thawing a package in the refrigerator, I thinly sliced it and tasted it. It was fresh tasting but compared to Japanese products, it was much softer. So I decided the first dish I would make would be simmered octopus  or “Tako-no-yawaraka-ni” 蛸の柔らか煮 literally meaning “tender simmered octopus”.  I tried this before with tako from other sources and despite long simmering, the octopus never got really tender. This time I have two elements which would make this dish successful; 1. This particular octopus had been pre-cooked before we received it and it was much more tender than the boiled and frozen octopus I tried before and 2. I now have a Instant pot which allows me to make this dish using pressure cooking. The combination of these factors resulted in a dish that was quite a success. The octopus was very tender and flavorful. 

I served this with fried shrimp heads (they were from Tako Grill takeout). Whenever we have shrimp (“bonanebi“ 牡丹海老) sashimi, we get fried heads which we heat up in the toaster oven and serve with wedges of lemon and salt broth soaked sugar snaps. On the right in the picture below is squid shiokara イカの塩辛 (frozen which comes in a plastic pouch). This is certainly a good line-up for starting the evening.

Here is the close up of the octopus.

The picture below shows how the octopus legs came. Two good sized legs in one package.

Since this was a trial, I used only one leg for this dish.

Ingredients:
Boiled octopus leg, thawed
200ml Japanese dashi (I made this from dashi pack).
1tbs soy sauce
2tbs mirin
2tbs sake
several think ginger slices

Directions:
I used an Instant pot with a small metal container insert with a silicon lid (you could use the inner pot of the instant pot).
I added the octopus and the seasoning liquid into the insert and put on the lid.
I added 1/2 cup water to the pot and using the metal holder that came with the insert, lowered it into the instant pot.
I cooked it on high pressure for 30 minutes with natural depressurization.
The picture below is after cooking.
One of the problems with the Instant Pot cooking is that the simmering liquid does not reduce at all.
So I decided to put the leg and the simmering liquid in a frying pan and cook it on medium flame for 15-20 minutes until the liquid reduced by half.

I cut the leg into bite sized pieces and served it at  room temperature. This is a most tender and flavorful octopus leg. Next time I will make a larger amount since the entire leg was just enough for two small servings.

Crumpet Version 4 クランペット 第4弾

This is the 4th version of crumpet we (my wife) made. She essentially combined V2 ingredients with  V3 cooking method. She got much better at regulating the flame and made really good crumpets. Compared to thin and small crumpets (V2), V4 has nice crunchy crust but much softer inside. We liked V2 flavors and liked cooking method of V3 (using an 8 inch frying pan). So, this is culmination of all the good aspects of crumpets we made.

Ingredients:
(makes 7, 8 inch crumpets)
2 cups AP flour
1 cup plus 2 Tbs. cake flour
600 ml. warm water
1 1/2 tsp. Salt
2 tsp. Sugar
3 tsp. Baking powder (The recipe said baking soda doesn’t work as well)
3 tsp yeast
3 tbs. warm water

Directions
Bloom the yeast in the warm water. Put the flour, water and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer and beat on speed 5 for 1 minute until smooth paste forms. Add the yeast mixture, sugar and baking powder and mix on speed 5 for another 30 seconds. Cover with cling wrap and put in a warm place for 15 to 30 minutes. The surface should get foamy but it will only increase in volume by 10 to 15 % (#1 picture below). 

The whole secret of getting the little holes in the crumpets is in the cooking. (They need a burst of heat at the beginning of the cooking process for the water in the batter to form steam bubbles which create little holes when they burst on the surface of the cooking batter.)  Put 1 tsp. butter in an 8 inch skillet and heat on low for at least 5 minutes.  Increase heat to medium and heat skillet for an additional 1 minute.  Increase the heat to high and immediately pour enough batter into the skillet to cover the bottom. (This will give the batter a burst of heat to start the bubbles forming.) After the batter is in the pan quickly reduce the heat to medium low and contiue cooking until the edges are risen, set and beginning to dry out (about 4 minutes). Keep checking the bottom to make sure it isn’t burning. Take skillet off the heat. Place a dry flat spatula on top of the crumpet and pull up sharply to remove the excess batter and reveal the underlying holes (#2). Turn the crumpet over (#3). Return to the heat on medium until the edges on the second side are lightly browned. Remove to cooling rack (#4). Wipe any crumbs out of the pan. Add a little more butter. Turn heat to high pour in more batter and repeat cooking process.

As can be seen in the picture 3 the bottom of these crumpets came out nicely lightly browned. These crumpets were really good. They had better flavor than V3 because the batter was cooked in butter, which gave it a browned butter taste. In addition we avoided the last step in V3 of adding additional water. We used the batter straight from the proofing stage. As a result it still made the required bubbles but the lovely yeast flavor came through. The texture of V4 was better than the texture in V2 because of the addition of the cake flour. When toasted the surface was crunchy with a browned butter taste. The interior was soft with a nice yeasty flavor. Slathered with butter that dripped into the many holes that formed in the cooking process this made a really nice breakfast bread.