Pottarga/Karasumi Taste Test 日本の唐墨とサルジニアのボタルガの味比べ

We enjoyed the fresh uni and karasumi 唐墨 from Maruhide 丸秀 a few days ago. We decided that while we still had some of the karasumi left, we would get some Sardinian bottarga and have a taste test. The last time we tried Sardinian bottarga was 11 years ago. The brand we bought back then was called bottarga Di Muggine from L’Oro di Cabras, Sardinia, Italy. We tried another one this time. The one we got is called “Sardinian Gold” from “Bottarga Brothers” through Amazon market place (picture #1, right). In terms of the price, the karasumi is 3.5 times more expensive than the bottarga. The color of this bottarga is about the same as the karasumi. I remembered that the bottarga we previously bought was darker in color and stronger in taste compared to Japanese karasumi I had eaten back then. The information brochure that came with the bottarga we just bought stated that when bottarga is exposed to air, the color it becomes darker and the taste becomes stronger.  So, to prevent that from happening, I separated the sacs and vacuum packed one for later use.

I sliced both and slightly toasted them. We had them with cold sake. In the picture #2, the left is karasumi and the right is bottarga. As you can see the bottarga is larger in size but the color is exactly the same. Both tasted good and about the same. We like this “Sardinian bottarga gold”.

Of course we needed some more items to go with the sake. In the picture #3, from left to right are karasumi/bottarga, squid shiokara イカの塩辛, Russian marinated salmon 鮭のロシア漬 with pickled cucumber topped with ikura, and daikon namasu 大根なます with slices of boiled octopus leg and also topped with ikura. The boiled octopus legs came from Weee (originated from China). This is excellent and as close as I can think of to a Japanese prepared boiled octopus leg. All these small dishes went so well with cold sake.

*Digression Alert: Although Sardinian bottarga is most well known, other cultures also make similar fish roe (usually gray mullet roe), salt cured and then dried under the sun. A small pamphlet came with our bottarga included the other types of bottarga the company sells which included Greek, Egyptian, French (two kinds) and Brazilian.  Japan, Korea and Chinese also make their versions.

“Karasumi” Japanese Bottarga from Maruhide 丸秀の唐墨

Our source of quality sea urchins “Maruhide” 丸秀 has made some changes after the original founder’s daughter took over some time ago. I noticed “karasumi” Japanese bottarga is available. We decided to get our usual fresh uni (both in salt water 塩水うに and regular alum-treated in a metal case), uni shutou ウニ酒盗 and karasumi* 唐墨. They arrived on Christmas eve and we had a tasting of two kinds of uni and karasumi. In the serving picture, the left is uni in salt water and the right is regular alum-treated. The center is slices of karasumi lightly toasted. we had these with “Tengumai Kimoto Junmai” 天狗舞生酛純米 hot since it was a very cold outside. Both the uni were very good. The salt water uni is softer in texture and alum-treated one keeps its shape but we did not taste the “bitterness” sometimes associated with alum-treated. Karasumi is wonderful with almost uni-like after taste or more like preserved uni (or neriuni ねりうに) flavor which is more concentrated.

*Digression alert: I already pontificated about “Karasimi” that it is originally from Sardinia which came into southern Japan during the edo-period and that the shape of bottarga to Japanese was reminiscent  of “sumi” ink block from China hence the name  “kara-sumi” in which “kara” 唐 means “China” (more precisely Tang-dynasty) and “sumi” means “ink”. We really like karasumi which is a regular part of the “osechi” box from Sushi taro. Karasumi is also associated with a fond memory of when we were in Japan last time in fall. Because of the approaching typhoon we left Sapporo one day earlier and stayed in a hotel near Narita airport. We went to a sushi bar in the hotel for dinner and a drink. It was not crowded. We tried to sit at the sushi bar where an old couple was already seated.  Although the rest of the restaurant was empty there was a “reserved” sign on the sushi bar. When we indicated we would like to sit at the bar, a waitress told us the bar was a “no set menu order,  a la carte only” in English. To that I reply in Japanese that it was fine with us. After a quick look of surprise the waitress ushered up to our seat at the sushi bar. So we sat and a very friendly sushi chef came greeted us and asked where we were from. Once he found we were from Washington, DC areas, he beamed and said “The Nationals!” (he was a big baseball fan). I asked for “otsumami” drinking snacks of his choice (i.e. omakase) first. Several sashimi were served and he said they had “karasumi” so we ordered it. It was very nice and served slightly toasted. The old couple appeared “surprised” at our ordering karasumi (in such close quarters with only two customers we were all aware of what each other was eating) and that my wife enjoyed it. So they also ordered some too.

The karasumi we got was from Hyogo prefecture (#1 below). It was very small (especially for the price). I sliced it and tasted a small piece. It tasted very good but I wanted to compare this with Sardinian bottarga so I ordered some on-line. Stay tuned karasumi tasting coming up. 

Grilled “Tai” Perch Seasoned Rice 鯛飯もどき

Among the items in the Sushi Taro osechi box, was a grilled small “Tai” perch 小鯛の姿焼き that looks very nice and makes the osechi box festive and special. In the past, I used it to make a bowl of rice (a type of donburi 丼) by removing the meat and making it into “Soboro そぼろ ‘or finely crumbled seasoned fish meat topping the rice along with “Braised small ice fish seasoned with Japanese pepper じゃこの有馬煮” from the box. This year, in the Japanese menu or “Oshinagaki お品書き” accompanying the osechi, Chef Kitayama suggested cooking the Tai over rice. I thought this was a great idea. It immediately reminded me of “Tai-meshi 鯛飯” we had in Matsuyama, Shikoku 松山、四国.

This worked very well. It was much easier to remove meat since it was sort of steamed while the rice cooked. The resulting rice was flavorful and, as far as we can tell, this is the best way to enjoy the grilled Tai perch fish from the osechi box (picture #1).

I did not follow any recipe but just made it like I make seasoned rice or “maze-gohan 混ぜご飯”. You may not like to add any other items or add more items to the rice beside the perch.

Ingredients:
1 grilled small Tai perch (from the Sushi Taro osechi box).
1 small carrot, peeled and julienned.
1 inch square of Dashi Kelp, surface cleaned with dump paper towel.
3-4 small fresh shiitake caps, thinly sliced
2 cups of Japanese short-grain rice. I used “Nanatsuboshi ななつぼしfrom Hokkaido” (a cup came with the rice cooker which is smaller than US cup)
2 cups or a bit more of water including 1 tbs x4 concentrated Japanese noodle sauce (or light colored soy sauce) and 1 tbs mirin (see directions below how to determine the liquid amount).
Thin strips of nori or “Kizami-nori 刻み海苔” for garnish.

Directions:
Wash the rice and drain.
Add the washed rice to the rice cooker.
Add the noodle sauce and mirin.
Add water to the mark in the rice cooker for 2 cups of rice and gently mix to distribute the seasonings.
Top the rice with the kelp, carrot and mushroom and place the grilled fish on the top and start the rice cooker in the normal white rice mode (#1 in the composite).
Remove the fish and the kelp. Remove the meat from the bone. I did not remove the skin which has good flavor. Carefully inspect for the bone (#2 in the composite)

Mix and fluff up the rice (#3 in the composite). You could mix the fish meat at this time or just top the rice in the serving bowl (#4 in the composite).

Garnish with the nori strips (#1 picture).

Making this rice was a great suggestion. The flavor of the fish permeated the rice with a rich umami. the mushrooms added yet another umami dimension. Great end to the New Year’s osechi box. 

Sushi Taro New Year Soba 手打ち蕎麦

When we got the Sushi Taro osechi box, we also got two orders of hand-made soba or “teuchi-soba 手打ち蕎麦” (Chef Kitayama is into making soba—which is our gain). As usual, we did not eat it on New year’s eve as “Toshikoshi Soba” 年越し蕎麦 or “Good luck going-over-the-year soba”. Instead, we had the soba as a lunch January 2 as our good luck new year soba. We have had this either cold or warm depending on the year. Since it was cold outside, this year we chose to have warm soba.

The soba kit included the dipping sauce, condiments (thinly sliced scallion and fried tempura batter or “age-dama/ten-kasu” 揚げ玉・天かす), wasabi, and cumquat in syrup. The wasabi is for cold soba with dipping sauce. So I preserved it for other occasions.

I first diluted the dipping sauce with the kelp-bonito broth I made for the new year “ozouni” soup to taste (about the same amount as the sauce), added fresh shiitake mushrooms (caps only), wood ear and oyster mushroom (since I had all these mushrooms) and heated it up and gently simmered while I was preparing  the soba. I also “borrowed” two slices of duck breast from the osechi box. I placed them in the warm soup for just 30 seconds before serving.

As per the instructions, I boiled the soba for 1 and half minutes, drained and washed gently in running cold water. I added the soup through the sieve in a pot on low flame so that the toppings would be separated (for better presentation). I added the cold washed soba into the soup and warmed it up for 30 seconds or so.

I placed the noodles and soup in the individual bowls, arranged the duck breast, mushrooms and garnished it with the age-dama and scallion. I served the cumquats as a side.

This was a very satisfying warm soba bowl. It is an upgraded version of “kake-soba” かけ蕎麦 or “tanuki-soba” たぬき蕎麦.

Sushi Taro Osechi box 2025

So, in the evening of January 1, we opened the osechi box. Picture #4 is the first layer. We quickly spotted our favorites; karasumi 唐墨 (right upper corner), kazunoko 数の子 herring roe and steamed uni 蒸しウニ.

Picture #5 is the second layer. We spotted  monk fish liver terrine or “ankimo tofu” あん肝豆腐 in the upper center. Another of our favorites.

The first serving of the evening is shown in picture #6. From right to left are cured Spanish mackerel 鰆喜鮨, caramelized crispy baby shrimp 小海老の甘露煮, steamed sea urchin 蒸しウニ, miso cured herring roe 数の子味噌ずけ, burdock root 叩きごぼう, behind the vegetables is steamed ground shrimp wrapped in “yuba” tofu skin 海老真蒸湯葉巻き, monk fish liver terrine あん肝豆腐, and karasumi 唐墨. Two small ones are bottarga for comparison. Everything was excellent. The karasumi is wonderful. By comparison, Sushi Taro karasumi was slightly saltier (not in a bad way) but we enjoyed both the karasumi and bottarga

Since we had cold sake with our ozouni お雑煮 (picture #3), for a change, we had scotch and bourbon (picture #7, Ballantine’s 17 year old and Maker’s Mark). We have not drunk hard liquor in ages. (We generally go for wine or sake). So, we added a lot of water and ice to make the drink not too strong. I had the Scotch and my wife had the bourbon.

The second serving of the evening (picture #8) included sake steamed shrimp 長寿海老, red and white fish cake 紅白蒲鉾 (we had it with wasabi and soy sauce), beef and duck (I warmed them up in the toaster oven, which made them fantastic) and other things.

This was a wonderful start of 2025. We will be enjoying and indulging for a few more days until we finish the osechi box.

Happy New Year 2025 謹賀新年2025

Happy New Year! This is the year of  the snake 巳年. We put out a small Japanese “Kagami-mochi” 鏡餅 decoration with three snake figurines. The center is actually a “netsuke” 根付 we purchased some years ago from a shop in Nakamise, Asakusa 仲見世、浅草.  They specialize in miniatures (the shop is also very small almost a miniature itself.)

As usual, we started the day with our regular breakfast of Cafe Latte and some bread/muffins. We have our new year’s soup or “Ozouni” お雑煮 for lunch with a few side dishes I made. (We will wait until evening to open up the Sushi Taro Osetchi Juubako 寿司太郎の御節重箱). The picture below, shows the dishes I served for lunch. They include ‘datemaki” 伊達巻, salmon kelp rolls 鮭の昆布巻き, “kazunoko” 数の子 herring roe (store bought*), wakasaki わかさぎ (store bought), Russian marinated salmon 鮭のロシアずけ folded into the shape of a rose with marinated ikura on top, and daikon namasu 大根なます with slices of octopus leg.

The “ozouni” お雑煮 “new year soup” is our usual. I added daikon, carrot, shrimp, shiitake mushroom and gluten cake or “fu”. In addition, I added chopped renkon to the tsukune balls 蓮根つくねだんご　 which worked well. We like this better than pieces of chicken meat.  It goes without saying that we had a ceremonial glass or two of sake to celebrate the new year 2025! Nice beginning of the new year.  We will open up Sushi Taro Osechi Box this evening.

Tofu in Warm Broth ミニ湯豆腐

It is getting cold. We decided to have a hot tofu dish called “Yu-dofu” 湯豆腐.  “Yu” means “hot water” and “dofu” is “tofu*. I am surprised to find out I never posted “Yu-doufu”. I deviated from a traditional “yu-dofu” a bit by seasoning the broth lightly and adding fresh shiitake mushrooms and scallion to the broth. I also served it with “Ponzu” ポン酢 as a dipping sauce. I served individual portions in mini-donabe  ミニ土鍋 (picture #1). This is the perfect dish for a cold night. 

*This is another example of “rendaku” 連濁, “yu+tofu”  becomes “yu+dofu” when making a compound word.

Ingredients (for 2 small mini-donabe servings)
2/3 block of medium firm (you can use silken or firm as well), cut into one inch cubes
450ml Japanese broth (I used a dish pack which contains kelp and bonito and re-enforced the flavoring by using additional squares of kelp)
1-2 tbs x4 concentrated Japanese noodle sauce
2 scallions, white parts chopped finely and the green parts cut into 1.5 inch segments
2 caps of fresh shiitake mushroom, sliced thinly

Directions:
Add the seasoned broth to individual mini-donabe on low flame.
When the broth is warm, add the cubes of tofu, shiitake mushrooms and chopped scallions.
Simmer gently for 5-10 minutes until the tofu cubes are throughly warmed. Add the green parts of scallions and simmer for another 2-3 minutes or until the greens are wilted.
Serve with the ponzu if desired.

I think using lightly seasoned broth and ponzu as a dipping sauce made the tofu a bit more flavorful. You can add more vegetables but then it may not be rightfully called “yu-dofu”. 

I realized I have a special perforated spoon and fork for serving yu-doufi as well as the container for dipping sauce which is used  half submerged  in the cooking broth in the center of the pot. We used them long time ago but almost forgot about it. I managed to find them (picture #2). 

In the traditional/classic “Yu-dofu”, add the water and kelp in the donabe pot, fill the dipping sauce container and place it in the center of the pot. Add the cubes of tofu in the kelp broth and let it simmer so that the tofu and the dipping sauce are both warmed up. The tofu is scooped up using the perforated spoon and fork and placed in the dipping sauce in the center and then moved to the your small bowl. The condiment is  usually chopped scallion. But bonito flakes, grated daikon and Japanese red pepper powder can be added. If you omit bonito flakes (in the broth and dipping sauce), then the dish is vegan.

We like the modification I made to this dish. The broth the tofu is cooked in has a nice “dashi” favors of kelp and bonito and seasoning it with the Japanese noodle sauce makes it nice to drink. Dipping the tofu in ponzu adds an additional dimension.

P.S. Merry Christmas