Chestnuts with somen noodle crust 栗のコッロケのいがぐり揚げ

Besides matsutake 松茸, chestnuts 栗 are a classic symbol of autumn. Every year, we get whatever remained of North American Chestnuts from California. Same as matsutake dishes, I almost exhausted what I can make from chestnuts but I came up with a variation of the chestnuts croquet.



This is same as the chestnut croquet but instead of bread crumbs, I used broken thin Japanese noodles or so-men 素麺. As you can see above, it resembles the spiky outer layer or "Iga" いが or 毬 of chestnuts (sort of). This is mostly for appearance rather than taste.



When you cut into it whole chestnuts appears.

To make it, (I am repeating the previous post).

Chestnuts: The best way to removed the hard outer skin is to do it while it is hot after boiling. I took one out at a time and keep the rest in the hot water in which the chestnuts were cooked. I removed the outer skin by cutting the bottom of the chestnut (mostly skin part) and then peeling off the outer skin or "onikawa" 鬼皮. The outer skin is easy to remove (except that the chestnut is very hot). The inner textured skin or "shibukawa" 渋皮” is more difficult to remove. Especially for Northern American chestnuts, the inner skin goes deep into the crevasses of the nut. Sometimes pulling up will release it or more often, the nuts break apart. We did about 20 chestnuts and 9 came out whole and other 11 were fragmented.

I placed the fragmented chestnuts (11) into a small food processor and pulsed it to break down the chestnuts and then added milk. I gradually added milk as I ran the processor until a chestnut paste is formed  (upper left and right below). I added a pinch of salt as well. The paste was stiff enough that the traces of the tines of a fork remained on the surface.

I moistened my hands and covered each whole chestnut with the chestnut paste (right lower).


For regular croquets, I dredged with flour, egg water and panko bread crumbs. For this preparation, instead of panko bread crumbs, I broke up the dried somen noodle in small segments (about1 inch or less) and coated the croquets. I just deep fried them in 350F oil for several minutes or until the somen noodles were golden brown.

Matsutake Dinner 松茸

When we got 1 lb of matsutake 松茸, we had to concentrate on having an “all matsutake” dinner so that we could finish it before it went bad. Nothing new here but the proof that an all matsutake dinner is definitely not too much of a good thing.  They are similar or identical to I posted before (Sakamushi 酒蒸し, Chawanmushi 茶碗蒸し, Tenpura 天ぷら, Matsutake rice 松茸ご飯, Grilled 焼き松茸, Dobinmushi 土瓶蒸し).

Matsutake rice 松茸ご飯 and clear soup of matsutake 松茸のすまし汁.



Matsutake grilled on touban 松茸の陶板焼き.



Matsutake chawanmushi 松茸の茶碗蒸し with ginko nuts and chicken.



This was the second version of matsutake omelet 松茸のオムレツ. Instead of chopped scallion, I used chopped shallot.



I think we can wait for one year for the next matsutake feast.

Matsutake Omelet 松茸のオムレツ

When the season for chestnut 栗 and Matsutake 松茸 comes, I cannot help myself and rush to order some. I order Matsutake either from Oregon Mushrooms or Earthy delights. This year, I ordered from Earthy Delights. The matustake is from North America probably from Oregon or Colorado. One pound of matsutake is quite a lot. Most of the matsutake we received was just before the caps open and the quality appears much better than last year. Since I posted many matsutake dishes (Sakamushi 酒蒸し, Chawanmushi 茶碗蒸し, Tenpura 天ぷら, Matsutake rice 松茸ご飯, Grilled 焼き松茸, Dobinmushi 土瓶蒸し) before, I have to come up with something new. One weekend morning, my wife suggested that since truffles and eggs go well together and since matsutake is Japanese truffle, egg and matsutake should go well together. How about an omelet? This is what I came up with. I made the omelet from two eggs and we shared it.



Since the flavor (smell) of matsutake is rather delicate (faint), I decide to make it as simple as possible.

Matsutake: I used three small to small matsutake (below left). As usual, I cleaned them with a wet paper towel and gently scraped the skin with a sharp paring knife. Some times embedded dirt is very difficult to remove but these matsutake were rather clean. I cut off  the bottom halves of the stalks and finely chopped them. The caps and attached portion of the stalks were sliced (below right).

Scallion: I chopped up two scallions finely reserving the green part for garnish.

Eggs: I used two large brown eggs well beaten with addition of cream (2 tbs) and a pinch of salt.


In a small frying pan, I added light olive oil (2 tsp) on medium flame. When the oil was hot, I sautéed the chopped scallion for few minutes, seasoned with salt and added the chopped up matsutake stalks. I sautéed for another 1 minutes. I pushed the chopped scallion and matsutake to one side of the pan and then cooked the slices of the matsutake turning once so that both sides had a nice color.

In another non-stick small frying pan on medium low flame, I added a pat of sweet butter (1/2 tbs) and let it melt but not brown. I poured in the egg mixture at once. Because of the cream, the omelet was rather fragile and soft. Instead of my usual way of forming the omelet as I place it on the plate, I decided to from an omelet in the pan. After I lifted the edge of the omelet as the bottom was set to let the uncooked egg to run under for several times, only just a thin coat of uncooked egg on the surface remained. I added the chopped and sautéed scallion and matsutake in the center of the omelet and using a wrist motion, aided with a spatula, I formed it to an omelet (see below).



I cut the omelet in half and garnished with the matsutake slices and green part of the scallion (The first picture).

As in the case of truffles, the delicate earthy flavor of matsutake and soft omelet are a good combination. I served it without any condiments or sauce. I even did not use pepper in the seasoning. Definitely this is a good way to bring up and enjoy the flavors (smells) of matsutake.

Matsutake grilled on ceramic plate 松茸の陶板焼き

The simplest and probably best way to enjoy matsutake 松茸 is to simply grill it and eat it with the juice of Japanese citrus splashed over it (Sudachi すだち or Kabosu かぼす) and salt. Sometimes I feel, though, that direct grilling over a charcoal fire makes matsutake too dry. I have tried using a "Touban" grill with the addition of sake (grill-steamed). This time, I made it even simpler and it turns out that this is a very good way to enjoy the delicate flavor of matsukae in its purest form. I simply grilled it on the touban 陶板 and finished it with the lid on. This final step steams matsukake in its own moisture.

I placed the mastutake on the heated touban on low heat without any oil or liquid. After the matustake grilled enough to develop some brown spots (appearing in about 2 minutes), I put the lid on and let it continue cooking for another minute.

The dome-shaped lid really does a good job of retaining the matustake flavor yet you do not feel like you are eating “raw” matsutake. Since we do not have “Kabosu”, we used wedges of lime and Kosher salt.

Squid sashimi dressed in tarako イカの刺身の鱈子和え

I decide to make this dish since it was served as one of the numerous dishes for a dinner at Wakamatsu Hontenn 若松本店 in Narita 成田 on our last  night in Japan. Unfortunately, the quality of the squid sashimi we could get here was not up to par with what we had in Japan and the previously frozen "tarako"たらこ was a bit too salty. As a result this dish was a pale comparison to the one we had at Narita. Dealing with lesser quality Japanese food items is especially difficult sice we just came back from Japan.

Squid sashimi: This is a packaged, prepared and frozen. I just thawed it.

Tarako cod roe: This also came frozen. I opened a sac of one small tarako and scraped off the roe from the membrane of the egg sac. I put it in a small container and added a small amount of cold sake so that the constancy is more suitable to dress the squid (also reduced the saltiness).,

Just dress the squid sashimi with tarako sake mixture.

We served sake in our newly acquired "Tusgaru" nuri 津軽塗 sake cups at "Nebuta" village ねぶた村 in Hirosaki 弘前.

This is my cup which matches the my chop sticks.

This is my wife's which also matches her chop sticks.

In Hirosaki, near Hirosaki castle 弘前城, we went to "Nebuta"village which is a large tourist trap. Beside the display of "Nebuta", many Tusgaru 津軽 or "Aomori" 青森 crafts are being displayed and sold. Some of the artisans were demonstrating how these crafts were made. One of them was making "Tsugaru-nuri" which requires many layers of lacquer and polishing on every layers. We bought two sake cups. When we came home, we were surprised to find that chopsticks which we have had for years matched the sake cups. I thought our chopsticks were "Waksa-nuri" 若狭塗りbut now I realized they are "Tsugaru-nuri" 津軽塗. Surprise, surprise!