Tuna "chiai" cake 鮪の血合いバーガー

The block of sashimi-grade tuna we got from Catalina Offshore products contained a dark red portion called "chiai" 血合い or blood line. This very dark meat is the least desirable part of the entire tuna. It has a strong gamy taste. Many sushi bars throw out this portion (or I imagine they may serve it to the employees) but, I have made two similar dishes using chiai, which were not bad. This time, I decide to make something totally different.

This was a starter dish. The amount of chiai from the one pound tuna block this time was not much. I could only make two small tuna patties or cakes.

Tuna chiai: I just chopped into small cubes.

I sautéed a shallot (one small, finely chopped) in light olive oil for few minutes. I placed it in a metal bowl to cool before I added the other ingredients which included finely chopped parsley (3 springs, finely chopped), ginger and garlic (grated 1/2 tsp each), store-bought mayonnaise (1 tbs) and panko bread crumbs (1 tbs).  I seasoned it with salt and pepper. I could have added more items such as lemon zest, hot pepper (either Tabasco or finely chopped jalapeño), but I restrained myself.

I made two equal sized patties and fried them in olive oil 2-3 minutes on both sides. I served it with mixed green and my salad dressing which is balsamic vinegar, mustard, olive oil and rice vinegar.

I was afraid that chiai may be too strong for this dish but the addition of a good amount of ginger and garlic really helped. This was a perfectly good use of scrap meat from the tuna block which would have been discarded in most circumstances. 

Sea urchin pasta パスタのうにクリームソース

This was a dish I've been wanting to make for some time but it felt like a bit of a sacrilege to use  good uni this way, so I did not make it until now. Catalina Offshore products sells four different kinds of uni; two kinds of live uni in a shell, California "premium" uni and "gold" uni with the gold uni being the best. I usually get the gold uni but this time, the only uni available was "premium". The difference between the "gold" and "premium" is the color and texture; the gold uni has a nice golden color with a firm texture and the premium is yellower with a softer consistency. Both taste pretty similar to us but there is about a 100% difference in price. They also sell frozen "vana" uni which appears suitable to use for a sauce but we have not tried this.

In any case, because the premium uni has a softer consistency, I thought this was best for this pasta dish. Since this is still an excellent uni, I made sure not to cook the uni in order to preserve its fresh oceanic flavor.

Uni: I used the entire 80 gram tray for two small portions of pasta (We were going decadent here). Leaving a few pieces for garnish, I put the rest in a metal bowl and stirred to break it up and added cream (about 2 tbs) and mixed them well but did not use a bender. Because of this, it still had some small bits and was not totally homogenized but that was OK by me.

Pasta: I used Angel-hair pasta which was cooked as per instruction on the box.

While the pasta was draining, I melted butter (1 tbs) in a frying pan on medium flame. When the butter melted I added the drained pasta to coat. After I cut the fire, I added the mixture of uni and cream and coated the pasta.

I garnished it with chopped chives and nori strips and more uni on the top. I served soy sauce on the side. This is a very rich and creamy pasta. Excellent! Next time, I may mix in soy sauce before serving. Although this is a pasta dish, we stuck to cold sake which went so well with the uni.

Julienne of Nagaimo with sea urchin 千切り長芋と雲丹

I just realized that my fellow Izakaya affectionado, Tobias at Izakaya Sanpo, has one recent post on October 2011 which I missed. It is about the Izakaya in Setagaya ward 世田谷区 called "Akaoni' 赤鬼, which is an imaginary red demon in Japanese folklore. One of the dishes he had and posted included this dish. Since I happened to have all the ingredients, I decided to make it.

I should have arranged everything more neatly but this is an Izakaya dish after all and I suppose rustic or not perfectly neat presentation is OK. The description of this dish and picture were enough to assemble this simple dish.

I just sliced and cut nagaimo 長芋 into small match sticks. I dressed with a small amount of sushi vinegar (from the bottle) and placed in the middle of the dish. I placed California gold uni with a small dab of real wasabi. On the three corners, I paced nori strips.

Before eating, we poured a small amount of soy sauce and mixed. This is certainly a good small dish. A perfect Izakaya affair which goes well with cold sake even with Daiginjou 大吟醸.

Tuna belly loin block and tuna fat dressed in sumiso マグロの脂の酢みそ和え

The below picture is an example of a small sashimi dish prepared using a tuna block from Catalina Offshore products. I already mentioned that they did not have blue fine tuna top loin for sometime and belly loin for a longer period. Finally, just in time for New Year, we could get belly loin. Nothing new here but just toro and aburi 炙り or seared toro. Only new item is small cubes of pure tuna fat dressed in sumiso 酢味噌 (in the center back in a small plate).

Before showing where this pure fat came from, here is how the 1 lb of blue fin tuna belly loin looks (#1). This cut has much more chiai or dark red portion as compared top loin. I divided the block into ootoro 大トロ (fattiest), chuutoro 中トロ (meidum fatty), akami 赤身 (red) and chiai 血合い (dark red) (#2 clock wise from the left back). The removed skin (#3) had a thin layer of pure fat. I removed the fat layer with a thin-bladed knife. I pondered what to do with it and came up with this dish; I cut up the fat into small cubes and dressed the pieces with sumiso dressing and chopped scallion.

Fattiest part (#4) often has thin layers of fat separating the meat. I used a kitchen torch and seared them (#5). We also got California gold uni which comes in a wooden pallet as seen here (#6).

You could make your own version of soy sauce for sashimi by adding sake and bonio flakes and heating it up (then strain and cool to room temperature), I just buy a small bottle of commercial "Sashimi Shoyu" 刺身醤油 (left). Since I could not get a fresh wasabi diakon 山葵大根 in time, I thawed real wasabi (right) in a tube, which has its own problem but is the next best.

The pure tuna fat dressed in sumiso was very good. The fat was rather firm but had a nice unctuous mouth feel and vinegar and miso cut its fattiness. Having only a small amount also helped to appreciate this dish better. As an added benefit, compared to pure fat from bone marrow, pork (lardo), or horse ("Koune" こうね), fish fat is supposedly good for you.

New Year's Eve: Champagne and Chawanmushi with sea urchin and salmon roe 大晦日夜 シャンパンと雲丹とイクラのせ茶碗蒸し

This was the last day of 2011. According to the old Japanese system for counting a person's age called "Kazoe-doshi" 数え年, everybody turned one year older on New year's day and New Year's Eve was referred to as "Otoshitori" お年取り meaning to be a year older. Although eating soba noodles or "toshikoshi soba" 年越しそば on New Year's Eve appears to be popular, this was not the custom in our household when I was growing up. I think eating soba noodles is more a custom for trades people who simply did not have enough time to make an elaborate dinner on New year's eve. My mother used to give us a feast for New Year's Eve akin to Christmas dinner.

In any case, New Year's Eve has very important (added personal) significance to us. We opened a bottle of Champaign. To go with the bottle of vintaged Champaign, my opening salvo was a chawanmushi 茶碗蒸し or Japanese savory egg custard topped with California gold uni and salmon roe (ikura).

My chawanmushi recipe is the same as before; three parts seasoned dashi broth and one part whole egg. To accommodate the special toppings, I did not use all the ingredients I usually use such as shiitake mushroom and shrimp. Instead I used only ginko nuts (from a can), shimeji mushroom, small pieces of chicken and sliced (on a slant) scallion. As ususal, from 3 eggs (about 150ml) plus seasoned dashi broth (450ml), I made 6 small containers (a small cup for dipping soba noodle) as you see below.

I let it sit after steaming was completed for 10 minutes so that the chawanmushi was not too hot and topped it with the uni and ikura. This was the ultimate--perhaps only surpassable with the addition of foie gras but I have not tried that yet!. This dish went so well with this Champagne. Although we are not champagne connoisseurs by a long shot, this particular one had a pleasant yeastiness with a fruity finish that went very well with the richness of the dish.

This was followed by a small sashimi (tuna and uni) and pickled herring in cream sauce (the white stuff in the picture above). The pickled herring was a nod to my wife's tradition of eating herring on New Year's eve. She claims this came from growing up in Pennsylvania Dutch country. She admitted, however, that the herring was too harsh a flavor compared to the subtlety of the sashimi.

As a small grilled fish dish, I served fatty belly of salmon (harasu ハラス), simply salted and cooked in a frying pan accompanied by namasu daikon (daikon in sweet vinegar) garnished with ikura. After a few more dishes including a small hand roll of salmon skin as a shime dish, only thing we had to do was stay awake until midnight to see in the new year.

New Year's day feast; Osechi from Sushi Taro 寿司太郎のおせち料理重箱

We started New Year's day evening with cold chawanmushi topped with uni and ikura which was followed by a small sashimi of tuna (akami and chutoro) and uni.

We finally started feasting on Sushi Taro's osechi juubako. The picture below is the first or upper box. It includes all the special, traditional foods eaten on New Year's day to bring good luck for the rest of the year and then some. As we started removing food we found many items hidden underneath. So the top box included several layers artfully packed one on top of the other. 

This is the second or lower box.

For those who may be interested what in the boxes, the below are the links for the menu in Japanese and English.

Menu in Japanese

Menu in English

Like kids in a candy shop we "oohhed" and "ahhed" and couldn't decide what to eat first. We tried a little of this and a little of that and ended up filling the plate shown here. But after eating this we were too full to go back for more.

Everything was very good. Many of the items can only be made by a professional chef; for example, the monkfish liver terrine 鮟肝豆腐--which was exquisite. The fish especially the sweet fish or "ayu" with roe 子持ち鮎 was a stand out. With something like this available, I have the perfect excuse for not making Osechi myself.

The fish pictured below was the highlight of the Jan 2nd feast from the box. This is a grilled small celebratory red fish or "tai" 鯛. After posing for the photo, he was deboned by my wife the resident deboning expert. (She claims I don't debone a fish I just take a mouthful and separate the meat from the bones in my mouth, spitting out bones and swallowing the meat.) She says she can't do that so for safety's sake she meticulously debones fish. She even recovered the cheeks from this fellow. 

We hit the box again but still did not finish it on the 2nd day.

A Happy New Year 2012 明けましておめでとう

New Years day was very mild and quiet. After having cafe latte to wake up, we had a customary new year's soup or "ozouni" お雑煮 which is the same as any other year. Many variations of ozouni by regions and families exist. If you are interested, here is the pictures of all kinds of ozouni across Japan.

When I've made excuses 3 years running for not making osechi おせち料理 juubako 重箱 (layered boxes, with three layers being the full implementation), nobody will believe that I used to make 3 layer boxes every year for many years. In any case, I have an excuse again this year and only made a few dishes for the new year.  

Salmon kelp roll (left upper) and Japanese style chicken loaf with pine nuts (right upper) were specifically requested by my wife. This year, I made matsumae-zuke 松前漬け. The Japanese chicken loaf is called "pine breeze grill" or matsukaze-yaki 松風焼き.

Matsumaezuke was made from a "kit" which contained thinly cut threads of dried kelp and squid. I added a mixture of broth (from dashi pack), soy sauce and mirin (1:1:1 ratio) and let them sit in a refrigerator overnight. I prepared herring roe or kazoko 数の子 as before. Since this was a New Year deluxe version, I cut up the kazunoko in large chunks and mixed in.

For chicken Matsukaze-yaki, I cleaned and hand chopped chicken thighs into ground chicken (about 1 lb). I mixed in miso (2-3 tsp), sugar (1-2 tsp), mirin (1 tsp), flour (2-3 tsp), soy sauce (2 tsp), egg (one beaten), panko (about 1/2 cup) and mixed well (of course,you could use a food processor but I did it all by hand since I did not want to clean the bowl of the food processor). My wife helped me by dry-roasting pine nuts (3 tbs). After the pine nuts cooled down, I mixed the nuts into the meat mixture. I sprayed Pam on the metal baking dish (about 5x7 inches) and placed a parchment paper on the bottom. I then spread the mixture into the pan with a spatula to slightly less than 1/2 inch thick loaf. I baked it in a 350F preheated oven for 20-25 minutes or until the meat mixture pulled away from the sides of the pan. 

After it cooled, I removed the loaf from the baking dish. Because of the Pam spray and the parchment paper, it came out without any difficulty.  I first removed the all four edges (good snacking) and cut it in half dividing the short side into two long rectangles.  I then cut the pieces into the shape of a Japanese "Hagoita" 羽子板 racket like you see here on the left. "Hagoita" is a racket used in a Japanese girl's New Year game called "Hanetsuki" 羽根つき which is something like badminton but the racket is made entirely of wood. Nobody plays this game and "Hagoita" has been transformed into a New Year's decorative item rather than actually being used as a racket. In any case, the shape of this dish is to imitate "hagoita". Just before serving, I inserted the toothpick in the narrowest end to further emulate the handle of the hagoita. I brushed a bit of mirin on one side and coated it with aonori 青海苔 or powdered green sea weed (see the second picture from the top). Between the pine nuts and the green color, the New Years theme "pine breeze" is complete. Pine is auspicious along with bamboo and plum flower or "shou-chiku-bai" 松竹梅 in Japanese culture especially in New Year.

But this is not the exciting part of new year's dishes. We got special osechi dishes this year from Sushi Taro 寿司太郎. This is the first year we learned that Sushi Taro makes New Year's Osechi layered boxes or Juubako, without hesitation, we signed up to get it.

We drove to Dupont Circle on December 31 to pick it up. This is a two tired juubako wrapped in furoshiki 風呂敷, a Japanese wrapping cloth. It felt very heavy (a good sign!). According to my wife, who ran into the restaurant, while I waited outside double parked, the dining area of the restaurant had been converted to assembly area for osechi juubako.

After we came home, we unwrapped the furoshiki revealing the menu written in Japanese and English. Expectation heightened while we waited until New Year's day evening to fully enjoy this (come back for the next installment to see what surprises await--to be continued).

Packaged drinking snacks #2 出来合の酒のつまみ パート２

This is the last post of 2011. It will be the year of the dragon next year. Although this may not be a worthy ending of 2011,  this is  the second installment of the series on prepackaged drinking snacks from Japan. These three items are vacuum packed but not individually packaged. So, once you open up the bag, you have to finish them relatively quickly.

The left is miso flavored squid from Tsunami ravaged Iwate prefecture, the center is squid cheese rolls, the right is "toba" which is "cut" and "soft" accoding to the label.

I am not sure how the squid was prepared but it is semi-dry and slightly chewy with good miso flavor. The item shown in the center picture is cut-up squid encased in mild cheese (Japanese "processed" cheese). This is rather mild and soft with a very agreeable taste. The right is "soft and cut" toba. Toba とば, written in kanji ideograms as 冬葉 which means "winter leaves". This is a famous item on my home island of Hokkaido. The name, I suppose, comes from the way the strips of salted salmon drying in the cold winter wind on the bare branches of trees resembles brown leaves. Traditonal toba is usually very chewy, or sometimes hard like a strip of leather, and very salty. It is sort of the Hokkaido version of beef jerky. This version is considerably "tamed". The skin has been removed and it is cut into smaller pieces. In addition, somehow it has been made much softer, although it is still quite salty.

(from left to right; smoked cheddar, toba, miso flavored squid, cheese-encased squid and cucmer slices)

I served these three items with slices of smoked sharp cheddar cheese and slices of cucumber. Somehow, these drinking snacks called for scotch and water. Although we only rarely drink hard liquor now-a-days, I made a very small and weak scotch and water. Since we had not drunk scotch for such a long time, I had to hunt around to find a bottle and eventually came up with "Chivas Regal". Somehow toba goes well with scotch. Is it possible that I used to have toba with scotch in my drinking days in Susukino 薄野?

Packaged drinking snacks #1 出来合の酒のつまみ パート１

Like mixed nuts, mini pretzels and goldfish crackers in American bars, the Japanese have a much wider array of prepackaged drinking snacks. So, when you are in Japan, in a pinch, even in your hotel room, you could have a small party without spending a fortune on room service. Drinks (beer, whiskey, chochu, sake or premixed alcoholic drinks in a can) and drinking snacks of many different kinds are available from vending machines or near-by convenience stores (you have a better choice in the latter). We received a care package from my mother. This year, for some reason, she sent different kinds of packaged drinking snacks. The four I am showing here came in a large bag but were individually wrapped. (Such double wrapping is very common for Japanese food items).

Here are the individually packaged items which can be stored at room temperature for quite some time. The below are what they look like after removing the wrappers.

The left upper is "Iso-noki konbu" 磯の木昆布, a small layered kelp stick, which is a bit chewy but has a slight sweetness and kelp flavor (lower left in the picture below). The lower left is another kelp snack called "Yuzu-aji konbu" or yuzu-flavored kelp ゆず味昆布, a similar small kelp stick but less chewy with a nice yuzu citrus flavor (lower right in the picture below). In the center is "Iso-yaki hotate-gai" shore-grilled scallop 磯焼き帆立貝, which is a semi dried and cooked (the name implies grilled-on-the-shore) scallops. They have a nice scallop flavor but do not appear to be smoked but seasoned instead - soy sauce, mirin?? (Upper right in the picture below). Finally, on the right in the above picture is "Specail cheese hotate" スペシャル チーズ帆立, the muscle of scollop with mild cheese covering one side (Left upper in the picture below). This one is not as strongly flavored as the shore-grilled scallop.

These snacks are much more interesting and tasty (and sometimes chewy) than their American counterparts. It is very convenient as a drinking snack while you are making something else for your drink. My wife liked the yu-zu flavored kelp stick the best followed by the cheese covered scallop. I was more partial to the two scallop snacks. Whichever snacks we preferred, we both ended up drinking quantities of water--because although individually they are pleasingly seasoned cumulatively we felt we had eaten a lot of salt.

Omelet rice オムライス

One evening, this was what we had as a shime 〆 or ending dish. I thought about what we had in the fridge and suggested to my wife "chicken omelet rice" or "omuraisu" オムライス. Omuraisu, "omu" is short for "omelet" and "raisu" i.e. rice in Japanese. It is a quintessential Japanese style Western "Yoshoku" 洋食 dish and also one "kids" like. I am not sure about the history of omuraisu but the movie "Tampopo" たんぽぽ made a version of omuraisu famous. Please see this link for the details and the actual movie footage.

The basic omurice is fried rice flavored with ketchup and covered with an omelet. I do remember my mother making it for us when we were kids. She had a special rice mold just for omurice.

You cannot really appreciate the size of this omurice seen above but this is a miniature version and probably less than 1/3 of the usual size. As such it is a perfect shime or ending dish for us.

Rice: As ususal I used previously frozen rice (about 1/2 cup) which was briefly microwaved; not warm but the grains could be separated (in my case about 30-40 seconds).

I used finely chopped shallot (1 medium or onion), leftover barbecued chicken (meat from one leg, cut into small cubes), and parsley (several sprigs, finely chopped). The more authentic recipe calls for canned green peas for greenery.

I added light olive oil (1 tbs) to a non-stick frying pan on medium heat. I first sautéed the shallot for 1 minute or until it became semi transparent, I then added the chicken meat and the rice and fried them for 1-2 minutes. I seasoned it with salt and pepper. I then moved the rice mixture to one side making an empty area in the frying pan. I added about 2 tbs of ketchup and stirred using a silicon spatula without mixing it with the rice for 1 minutes until the color darkened (which makes the flavor of ketchup a bit more complex).  I then mixed the ketchup with the rice mixture and added the parsley. I tasted (adjust the seasonings if needed) but did not need more seasonings.

After I divided the fried rice into two portions, I cleaned the frying pan and added a pat of butter and one egg (beaten) to make a thin omelet. I devided the omelet in half and draped it over the mound of rice and adjusted the shape to make it presentable. I squirted the ketchup on the top and added parsely springs as a garnish. If you have, you could erect a small Japanese flag or any national flag of your choice on the omuraisu but that is for kids. I have no idea  why a flag is used to decorate a "lunch" for kids or "Okosama ranchi" お子様ランチ in which "omuraisu" is one of the most popular items.

My wife is not crazy about "ketchup" flavored rice but I think this is a perfectly fine dish for adults to end the evening as long as you do not erect a national flag on it.

Edible chrysanthemum with black sesame sauce 春菊の黒ごま和え

Edible chrysanthemum or "shungiku" 春菊 is one of my wife's favorite Japanese vegetables. We even grew some from the seeds for few years.  The harvest, however was was quite meager and the plants frequently got leggy consisting mostly of stalks with few leaves so we stopped growing it. Only sporadically, do I see fresh shungiku at the Japanese grocery store. This green is usually used in "Sukiyaki". My wife, however, gets quite creative with it, claiming that "shungiku in not just for sukiyaki any more." She shocked several of my Japanese friends by using it as lettuce in a salad..."but it is never eaten this way in Japan", they exclaimed. My wife asked, "why not?"

I bought shungiku last weekend but did not have a chance to prepare it. Rather than let them go waste, I decided to make this simple dish.

Shungiku: This started out as a good sized bunch but once cooked, like spinach, it reduced tremendously. I first cut off the largest stalks on the bottom and blanched the bunch in salted boiling water for about 1 minute and immediately shocked it in ice water. Using paper towels, I wrapped the shungiku and squeezed out any excess moisture as much as I could. I then wrapped the shungiku in nori sheet to make a cylindar. I sliced the cylindar into 4 pieces (2 pieces per serving as you can see above).

Black sesame sauce: This is exactly as I posted before. I used black sesame paste from the pouch (2 tbs), sugar (1 tsp), soy sauce (1-2 tbs), if needed, sake or mirin to adjust the consistency.

The flavor of shungiku is very unique. It is not spinach and really taste like "chrysanthemum". This is rather healthy but quick good dish. Next time, when I get fresh shungiku, I have to make sukiyaki--unless my wife comes up with something else first.

Drunken tomatoes and its "marinade" Martini 酔っ払いトマトとマーティニ

This is certainly not post-worthy but I noted it anyway just in case I have a lean time for recipes (such as now). I have previously mentioned our favorite way of preserving and enjoying Campari or cherry tomatoes; we make them into a drunken tomato or Martini-on-a-stick.

I first blanch the tomatoes (Campari or cherry or even grape tomatoes), shock them in ice water to stop the cooking and then remove the skin. For marinade, I use either straight Vodka or more often,  Vodka or Gin Martini (I prefer Gin and used Tanqueray this time, the proportion of dry vermouth is up to your taste) and soak these skinned tomatoes. After overnight soaking in a refrigerator, they are ready to be enjoyed. The most proper way is to put tooth picks and serve several on a plate with a small mound of salt on the side and call it "Martini or Bloody Mary-on-the-stick". Another way is to use it as a garnish or as a salad. 

Soaking tomatoes in alcohol keep them fresh tasting for long time in the refrigerator but after one week, it is time to finish up. So I made a salad from the drunken tomatoes, leftover baked cauliflower, chick peas and olive and baby arugula.  For dressing, I simply splashed Champagne  vinegar, good fruity olive oil, a few grinds of black pepper, and sprinkling of salt.

And now, the piece de resistance is the marinade. It is essentially gin martini but has nice sweet tomato flavors and is much easier to drink than straight gin martini. It serves as a perfect aperitif, and with the salad, a promising start of the evening.

Chestnut croquettes 栗のコロッケ

This looks like "Menchi-katsu" メンチカツ but this is made completely with chestnuts, no meat or anything else is involved. After I got the second batch of North American chestnuts, I looked for chestnut recipes and found this chestnut croquettes recipe.

Here, are the cut surfaces. 

I only made three but to make three I needed 5 chestnuts for the batter (#1). I broke up boiled and cleaned chestnuts (5) and put them into a small bowl food processor. I added milk gradually white running the processor until a nice consistency of the batter was reached (#2). Actually, I overdid the milk so I added a small amount of potato starch to adjust the consistency. I then encased the three chestnuts with the batter (#3) and then rolled them in Japanese Panko crumbs (#4). I skipped the usual steps of dredging in flour and egg water steps since I did not feel they were needed. I let them sit for few minutes so that the panko adhered better to the nuts (#5) and deep dried them in 340F peanut oil on medium flame (#6) for several minutes.

This is really good. Chestnut encased in chestnut batter is a great combination. We really enjoyed the sweetness of chestnuts and the levels of texture ranging from the interior nut, through the batter surrounding it, topped with the crunch of the outer layer. I liked the chestnut tempura and this croquette equally well but my wife said she definitely like the croquette better. She said the croquette really had substance and could be served as the "meat" part of a meal. She also said she now realizes chestnuts are indeed "real" food you can enjoy.

Chestnut tempura 栗の天ぷら

We got North American chestnuts from Girolami farm this year and were very much impressed with how good they were and I ordered another 3 lbs. One of the difficulties in dealing with chestnuts especially the North American variety is removing the inner brown skin or "shibukawa" 渋皮. It appears that the shibukawa does not just cover the surface of the chestnuts but goes deep into the cleavage of the nuts making it extremely difficult to remove, and making the nuts taste bitter if it is not removed. I do not remember this characteristic in Japanese chestnuts. In any case, I solved this problem after few tries (see below).

After I found the way to remove the shibukawa fairly easily and completely, I saw the description of chestnut tempura. Although I have never had or made this, I decided to try it. The above is the result. It is excellent and the chestnut's sweetness and nice texture came through very well.

I also made shiitake mushroom tempura and served them with my usual green tea salt as seen above.

Now my method of removing the shibukawa inner skin: I first soaked the chestnuts in cold water for a few hours. I put the pot with chestnut in it on high flame until it started boiling, I turned it down to simmer. I cooked for 15-20 minutes and shut off the flame. I let it sit in the pot for 20 or so minutes. I scooped up several chestnuts at a time using a large slotted spoon and started removing the outer and inner skins. It was still rather hot but just cool enough that I could handle them. When I pulled on the shibukawa using a paring knife, to my surprise it came off very easily and with a little care, the shibukawa even came out from the cleavages as seen above. When the chestnuts got cold or dry and were too long out of the cooking water, it became more difficult to remove the shibukawa and the nuts tended to break when I tried. So, I worked 4-5 chestnuts at a time. In any case, I got really good at it and removed both outer and inner skins breaking only few chestnuts. I produced a good numbers of intact chestnuts with both skins completely removed this way.

The tempura batter is my usual; a mixture of potato starch and cake flour mixed with cold water. I  made a somehwat thick batter for this. I deep fried it in fresh peanut oil at 340F for 3-4 minutes.

This is surprisingly good.  The natural sweetness of chestnuts is really enhanced and nice combined with nice "hokuhoku*" ホクホク texture. 

*It is difficult to translate to English. This is to express the texture of starchy root vegetables such as boiled or grilled potato especially roasted sweet potato called "Ishi-yaki Imo".

Potato with nori "Tsukudani" and butter 小芋のバターと海苔の佃煮添え

In Japan, raw nori 生海苔 can be had as a seasonal item (I think it is in winter and early spring). I only remember that we had this a few times--it is not a very common item even in Japan. One of the famous dishes made from raw nori is "Tsukuda-ni"  海苔の佃煮. I do remember one commercial product called "Edo-murasaki" 江戸むらさき which came in a glass jar. It is very salty and had an almost chemical taste to me and I did not like it then. It has been a very popular condiment (for breakfast) and goes well with a white rice.

When I made a nori wrapped cod roe omelet, I had excess nori sheets and made this instant "Nori Tsukudani". I read this recipe a long time ago in one of the drinking snack cook books and made it once or twice in the past but until now, I completely forgot about this dish.

Here is what it looks like (below left) and it is very simple to make. I just tore a dried nori sheet into small pieces (by hand) and place the pieces in a frying pan. I then added enough sake that the nori just absorbed the moisture and became "slushy". I kept stirring the mixture with a pair of cooking chop sticks on low heat (left image). When the nori became a loose paste, I added soy sauce in stages as I tasted to monitor the saltiness and kept cooking until a nice paste-like consistency was reached (image below left).

I first served this as an accompaniment for sake. You just lick a small amount of this stuff on the tips of chopsticks as you sip sake. My wife thought this was a bit too salty to eat alone and suggested I use it to top boiled potatoes. I thought this was a good idea. 

I quickly microwaved  small red potatoes and added pats of butter when it was hot. As the butter was melting (above right), I topped it with my instant nori tsukudani.

To eat the dish we smashed the potatoes and mixed in the nori. This was a very good comforting dish, although this was the first time I made this and tasted it.

Squid, asparagus, and carrot flavored with tarragon and French vermouth いか、アスパラガス、人参のタラゴン、ベルモット風味

This not a photogenic dish. In our regular market, I found some decent looking squid and got a pound of it. Early in the day, I baked ciabatta bread. So, I decided to make a squid dish which would go well with this crusty bread.

There is no recipe or dish on which this is based. From a pound of squid, I made two relatively large (for us) servings.

Squid: The squid was already cleaned. I just washed it and cut the bodies into thin (1/2 inch) rings. I cut he legs in half and made sure no cartilage or "beaks" were left. I patted the pieces dry with paper towels.

Vegetables: I used carrot (one medium, peeled and thinly sliced on the diagonal), asparagus (4, bottoms cut thinly on the diagonal and the tips cut in half lengthwise), royal trumpet mushrooms (2 large, torn length wise), shallot (one small, thinly sliced), garlic (4 cloves thinly sliced).

I started cooking with the vegetables. I added olive oil (2-3 tbs) in a large frying pan on medium heat. I sautéed the shallot, carrot, sliced stems of asparagus first. After a few minutes, I added the tips of the asparagus, royal trumpet mushrooms, and garlic and cooked for 2-3 more minutes. I seasoned it with salt, pepper, thyme (dried, 1/8 tsp) and tarragon (dried 1/4 tsp). I then added white dry vermouth (3-4 tbs) and put on a tightly fitting lid. I steam/simmered it for 1 minute and removed the lid and upped the heat to reduce the juice by about half (2-3 more minutes). I removed  the vegetables and the juice onto a plate.

I wiped the frying pan clean and added olive oil (2 tbs) on medium high heat. When the oil was shimmering on the surface, I added the squid and very quickly sautéed, seasoning with salt pepper for less than 1 minute or until the squid was just cooked. I put back the vegetables back in the pan with the juices and combined with the squid then cut the flame.

I lifted the squid and vegetable from the pan and divided in two plates leaving the juice behind in the pan. I put back the pan and further reduced the liquid (squid imparted some more juice as well). I then added a few thin pats of butter to make an instant sauce. I did not have to adjust the seasoning of the sauce. I poured it over the dish.

My wife toasted and buttered the Ciabatta bread and placed it on the side.

I am not sure how this dish should be categorized. White (French) vermouth and tarragon flavors may be considered "French" in style. Since I did not over cook the squid, it was very tender. Despite the amount of garlic I put in, it was not too garlicy and the tarragon really made this dish.

We are having the last bottle of Hall Cab 2008 with this dish. Ciabatta bread was perfect to mop up the sauce.

P.S. I am sure you can find recipes for ciabatta bread elsewhere. Few points which are important include; a sponge (starter) which I started the day before I baked the bread. Since the dough is rather sticky, I formed the ciabatta (slippers) on a parchment paper (minimal handling and forming to preserve the bubbles) and let it rise on the paper. After the second rise, I lifted the dough by grabbing both edges of the paper and placed it, still on the paper, directily on a pizza stone (baking stone, preheated).

Scallop carpaccio 帆立貝のカルパッチョ

Fresh sashimi-grade scallops are difficult to come by in our area. Even in sushi bars, we rarely see it. This was from Catalina offshore products with tuna sashimi and other items. It smelled (or rather did not smell at all) fresh. Since I had quite a good amount, I decided to make it into carpaccio style as you see below.

First I removed the hard muscle bundles from the scallops. To slice the scallops thinly, I placed them on the cutting board and pressed with my left index and middle finger (I'm right handed). Using a sharp and thin blade (in my case, Global's flexible Swedish filet knife), I sliced the first slice horizontally as close to the cutting board surface as possible. While keeping pressure on the scallop, I sliced the second one just above the first and so on to make about 4-6 thin slices from one scallop.

I sliced some Vidalia onion very thinly, separated the rings and scattered them on the bottom of the plate. I then sprinkled salt, black pepper and olive oil. I also splashed a small amount of Champagne vinegar. I arranged the thinly sliced scallops in one layer on the top. I garnished with small cubes of tomato (or concasse of tomato), caper, chopped chive and chopped oil cure black olives (stones removed). I sprinkled olive oil, Kosher salt, black pepper and Champagne vinegar again.

The scallop meat is very tender, fresh tasting and sweet. This will made us enjoy more cold sake! If you are not a sake drinker, dry Champaign or other effervescent wines (California sparkling wines, Cava, or Prosecco) will go well with this.

Tuna and scallion "Negima" ねぎま

This was part of our tuna feast. Although I posted a simialr dish before, this time, I used sashimi-grade tuna. I modified how I made this scallion ("Negi") and tuna ("Ma"guro) dish.

Tuna: This was a block of tuna from Catalina. I used the red meat or "akami" portion. I did not really want to cook the tuna, so I used a kitchen torch to cook/sear the one surface and poured hot broth over it. So the center of the tuna was still raw.

Scallion: I used scallions (4 stalks) instead of Japanese negi. After I washed them, I held them over the direct gas flame (using a metal tong) until they wilted and some brown patches appeared on the white parts. I then cut them into one inch long pieces on a slant.

Broth: I made dashi using kelp/bonito dashi pack as usual. I added light colored soy sauce (Usukuchi chouyu) and mirin to season the dashi and make broth.

In a small pot which contained some hot broth, I placed the scallion and cooked for 1 minute and then mixed in two eggs and stirred until the eggs are just cooked (or became "egg flowers").

I placed the seared tuna in miniature "donabe" pots and poured the hot broth over it. I arranged the scallion and eggs as seen above.

This tasted really good and gave us a reprieve from just eating raw tuna. The texture of the tuna went very well with the texture of the egg. Compared to using non-sushi grade tuna as I did in my previous post, this is a much better way to make negima.  It's a bit of a sacrifice especially when the tuna sashimi was top-knotch quality.

Open sandwich of tuna sashimi and porched egg 鮪の漬けと温泉卵のオープンサンド

Believe it or not, we had this as a breakfast! When we visit Japan, for the first few days, we get up very early because of the time difference. Since we often stay at a hotel located in Ginza, we often walk to Tsukiji market 築 地市場 for breakfast (more precisely, to eateries in and around the Tsukiji market) which open up very early in the morning for workers in the fish market. Although we usually go for a Western style breakfast, we were amazed to see long lines of people waiting to have sushi/sashimi for breakfast at one of the popular sushi bars in Tsukiji. We (even I) thought sushi or sashimi was not a breakfast food. But we had to finish the pound of tuna sashimi block we got from Catalina. So we decided to indulge in tuna one weekend morning.

This dish is a variation of the smoked salmon and porched egg dish that we often have for breakfast.

Disk of rice: Instead of bread, I decided to make a disk of rice. I used frozen rice which I thawed by microwaving it. I just added "frikake" seasoning (bonito and wasabi flavor) and mixed. I used a ring mold and the back of the spoon to press the rice into thin disks. I then added vegetable oil with a splash of sesame oil (1 tbs) to a frying pan on medium heat. I made both sides of the rice disks slightly brown and crispy (#1).

Tuna: I sliced the red meat or akami of tuna relatively thinly and marinaded it in a mixture of sake and soy sauce (1:1) for 10 minutes and blotted off the excess marinade.

Wasabi creme fraiche: I mixed in real wasabi into creme fraiche. The amount is arbitrary but you could add quite a large amount of wasabi since the creme tends to tone down the heat. I tasted it a few times as I added more wasabi.

Poached eggs: I used pasteurized eggs and poached them as I described before. I like the egg white congealed but the yolk totally runny.

Assembly: I placed the rice disk (#1) on the plate and layered it with slices of the lightly marinaded tuna sashimi (#2), added the wasabi creme fraiche and chopped chives (#3). I then placed the poached egg on the top and further granished with Kosher salt and more chopped chives (#4).

Compared to the strong taste of our usual smoked salmon dish, this is remarkably mild. It is, nonetheless, a perfectly acceptable breakfast dish. We had cafe latte with it but if this was the evening, sake would definitely be called for.

Sea urchin, creamy scrambled egg on toast 雲丹とクリーミィ炒り卵のせトースト

Uni for breakfast--this may be too much of a good thing. I have to preface this by saying it was all my wife's idea. I, for one, would not have considered eating uni for breakfast. However, we were in a bind. I had ordered 4 trays of luscious golden California uni from Catalina (along with some other items) expecting to feast on them over the Friday to Sunday dinners of the weekend when my wife reminded me that one of those days we had a dinner engagement. So there we were; too much uni and not enough intervening dinners before it went bad--hence breakfast uni. We have tried the combination of soft scrambled eggs and uni before and it was really good so this was just another step along the continuum

Scrambled eggs: I made creamy scrambled eggs using a Bain Marie or a double boiler to make it extra creamy. I used pasteurized eggs (two) with the addition of cream (light cream 2 tbs), salt (1/4 tsp) and freshly cracked white pepper. After beating the eggs well, I added a thin pat of butter in the upper pan of a double boiler. When butter melted, I added the egg mixture and stirred with a silicon spatula. I kept stirring until the eggs became soft scrambled eggs (4-5 minutes). I erred on the side of slightly under cooking (this is a reason I used pasteurized eggs).

Toast: My wife had baked a loaf of white bread previously which was sliced and frozen. She toasted and then buttered it.

Assembly: I layered the creamy scramble eggs, chopped chives and then sea urchin (for two servings, I used a whole tray, 80 grams). I garnished it with strips of nori (I added more after taking picture) and a side of real wasabi. I sprinkled Kosher salt and white pepper and more chopped chives as well.

We served this with a very small bowl of kabocha and sweet potato potage (I used sweet potato instead of my usual regular potato) on the side. We smeared a little of the wasabi on the uni before eating. This is rich! You can't go wrong with this combination no matter what time of the day it is eaten. It was amazingly good as a breakfast. We had Cappuccino with this but if this had been in the evening, sake wold have been our choice of libation.

Seared or "aburi" fatty tuna トロの炙り

This is part of the tuna feast. Sometimes the fattiest part of tuna can be just a bit overwhelmingly too much fat for some (not for us). One of the ways to make the fattiness more agreeable is to use a technique called "aburi" 炙り. In the old days, charcoal fire was used but, nowadays, a kitchen torch is the most commonly used tool to accomplish this task. For this dish, I chose the fattiest portion of the tuna we had.

I placed the tuna slice on a plate and using a kitchen torch, I seared the sides of the tuna slices. I just served this with a garnish of chopped chives, fresh wasabi and soy sauce.

Searing does add a different dimension to tuna sashimi. We rather enjoyed this dish (a lot), which led to consuming more sake.

Fatty tuna and scallion ネギトロ

Catalina offshore products did not have fresh tuna sashimi blocks for quite some time but, recently, it was back in stock. I ordered one pound along with other items. This is blue-fin tuna with "akami" and mostly "chu-toro" block which most likely came from a portion toward the tail.

The one pound block looks like you see below with the skin still attached. Top triangular part is mostly red meat or "akami" 赤身 and underneath is mostly moderately fatty or "chu-toro" 中トロ and only small amount of fatty part or "toro" トロ. We got a much better block of tuna from them in the past but given the long hiatus in availability, I am not complaining.

After I removed the skin and then the meat attached to the skin which was quite fatty (image above lower right). I decided to make "negitro" ネギトロ ("negi" means scallion and "toro" means fatty tuna) from this and other trimming or "scrap" parts. I then cut the akami by slicing horzontally (getting a triagular shaped akami block. I then divided the remaining rectangular blocks into slightly fatty ("ko-toro" and moderately fatty ("chutoro"). I wrapped each part in parchment paper, then paper towels and placed them in a Ziploc bag. I stored it in the meat drawer of the refrigerator, where it will keep up to 3 days if it is going to be used as sashimi. Any  longer and it has to be cooked.

I am not sure where "negitoro" originally came from but I believe it was popularized by low-end shushi bars such as "Kaiten sushi" 回転寿司 place serving their customers utilizing scraps or low-quality tuna sashimi either as a roll or battle ship sushi or "gunkan maki" 軍艦巻き. Certainly, I did  not have this while I lived in Japan. In any case, since I had thin but rather fatty meat (image above lower right) just off the skin, I made "negitoro".  Since the portion was not totally scrap or scrapings from the skin or bone, I cut it into small dices rather than making it almost like paste which is usually the consistency of negitoro.

I just mixed in finely chopped scallion and dressed it with a mixture of "real" wasabi (just defrosted) and soy sauce and garnished it with nori strips. This was our starter for the tuna feast evening. The only problem with this type of dish is that you tend to over indulge with sake.