Fish cake and green beans "Isobe" fry ちくわとインゲンの磯辺揚げ

I made this dish to try out the new plates we recently acquired in New York. This white square plate with rim is very versatile. My only complaint is that it does not seem to have been made to stack—when stacked on atop the other the top plates slide off making it difficult to store. I realized that I had defrosted "chikuwa" 竹輪 fish cake the previous day but did not use it. I decided to make tried-and true "Isobe" 磯辺 fry. I also made green beans in the same  fashion.



Chikuwa: I cut it in half crosswise and then cut the halves into 4 pieces lengthwise to make 8 small batons.

Green beans: I trimmed both ends and cut in half to make the length equal to the chikuwa pieces.

Tempura batter: Just a mixture of cake flour and cold Seltzer water plus dried "aonori" 青海苔 sea weed. I made this a thin, runny batter.

I deep fried in 170F oil until done (the chikuwa 1-2 minutes, the green beans 3 minutes).

These two items were quite good. The green beans got so "etherial" like the dried green beans. The chikuwa developed good slightly chewy texture. Both had nice crisp  light crust with "seashore" flavors from the "aonori". I served this with my usual green tea salt.

Chickpeas cooked in tea 紅茶ひよこ豆

This is another one of my wife Indian-style cooking but we served this as a drinking snack and it worked very well. Of course, this can be a side dish (vegetarian) for dinner. Again this is from “Quick and Easy Indian cooking”.


Ingredients:
Chickpeas, canned x2, 19oz cans, drained
Vegetable oil, 1/4 cup
Cumin seeds, 1 tsp
Onion, x1 medium, finely chopped
Garlic, 2 cloves, finely chopped
Whole plum tomatoes, canned, x1 16oz, drained and coarsely chopped
2 Tsp grated ginger
1/14 cups prepared black tea (earl grey)
Jalapeno pepper, 2 medium size, seeded and de-veined, cut into thin slices
1tsp salt
2 tsp. ground cumin seeds
1 tsp garam marsala
4 tbs. cilantro chopped
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice


Following the instructions I drained and rinsed the chickpeas. I put oil in a frying pan and added the cumin seeds and let them bloom for a few seconds. Then I added the onion and cooked until the edges turned brown. I added the garlic and tomatoes and cooked until they became a bit carmelized. Next came the chickpeas and the remaining ingredients. I simmered for about 10 minutes.

I initially made this dish because I was curious about how the tea and chickpea combination would taste. As it turns out the tea is simply to color the chickpeas and didn’t seem to add any particular flavor. Since I removed the veins and seeds from the pepper, this was not too hot but if you like it hot, do not remove the veins and seeds. For us this has a nice slow heat which is perfect. 

This was a very good savory dish that just got better with time as all the flavors melded together. It almost had the feel of a comfort food. This will go with any drink.

Grilled squid with "Tsume" sauce イカのたれ焼き

Although this was not real “Tsume” sauce つめだれ, I had the sauce left when I cooked a whole Vermilion snapper which contained a lot of “umami” and protein from the fish. This was first used to make a simmered tofu or “Niyakko” 煮奴 by diluting with dashi broth. After this, I reduced it and adding more soy sauce and mirin and used it for yakitori. This sauce was finally used to make this grilled squid. This is very similar to other squid dish I posted but this time I grilled it using the toaster oven and the sauce was a bit better.

These are rather small squid. I made shallow crisscross cuts. I dried the surface with a paper towel and placed them in the broiler about one inch from the upper heating elements. After 6-7 minutes I turned them over and cooked the other side for another 5 minutes. When the squid was almost fully cooked, I brushed on the sauce and let it grill for 1 minute on both sides brushing the sauce on the other side as well.

This was remarkably tender squid and the sauce was pretty good. I served it with a wedge of lemon on a bed of water cress.

Yakitori; three kinds 焼き鳥３種類

On the weekend, I had a package of chicken thighs. I was afraid it would go bad soon. Although we could not grill outside because of the pesky mosquitoes, I decided to do "Yakitori" 焼き鳥 in the toaster oven. With some influences from eating Yakitori at Torishin 鳥心 in New York. I decided to make three different sauces/seasonings.

The picture below is what I cooked.  The closest skewer is Yuzu-koshou and Jalapeño pepper, the middle is sweet miso with "shiso" しそ perilla and the furthermost with onion is with a "tare" sauce.

  

I. "Tare" or "Tsume" sauce たれ or つめ (right in the picture below).

Many "Yakitori" places have their secret sauce which has been in use for many years.  The sauce is maintained by straining the old sauce, adding a new batch and cooking it again everyday.  Dipping grilled chicken into it everyday for many years, of course adds to the flavors. Home cooks could not possibly match this.

Another similar sauce is called  "Tsume" which is a short for “Tsume-dare” つめだれ. “Tsume” comes from the word  "nitsumeru" 煮詰める or to "reduce" by boiling. It is usually used to "paint" some sushi like "anago" 穴子. It is essentially a concentrated ”sweet and salty” or “ama-kara” 甘辛 sauce made from soy sauce (mirin, sake) and sugar with some savory elements (classically, for anago, I was told, grilled "anago" bones were used. Some recipes use pre-made “oyster sauce”).

Mine started out as the simmering liquid for "Vermillion snapper". After  the fish was cooked and removed,  the remaining and reduced seasoning liquid totally congealed in the refrigerator because of the protein components from the fish. I diluted this using “dashi broth” and made a simmered tofu or “Niyakko” 煮奴. After making this dish, what remained of the simmering liquid was kept in the refrigerator. This was the base of the sauce I used here. I tasted the sauce and added more soy sauce, mirin and reduced it to 1/3. It became slightly thick and tasted salty and sweet (not as sweet as some Yakitori “tare” sauce) with good savory “umami” flavors (right in the picture below). Of course, you can make this sauce simply by mixing soy sauce, mirin or sugar and thickening it with a potato starch slurry.

2. Sweet miso with perilla 大葉入り甘味噌 (left front in the picture above).

This is made with miso (2tbs), green perilla (2 large leaves finely chopped), and mirin (about 2 tbs or until the consistency of the miso reaches a saucy stage).  I thought of adding a bit of dark sesame oil but refrained.

3. Yuzu-koshou and Jalapeño pepper 柚子胡椒ハロペニョ (left back in the picture above).

I made the least amount since this was rather spicy. I finely chopped up half a Jalapeño pepper (1/2, seeded and deveined) and mixed with yuzu-koshou (1 tbs) and mixed in mirin (1 tbs). I was thinking of adding lemon zest (micrograted) but forgot to do it.

4. Chicken

I boned and skinned 6 thighs (3 were large but three were small). I cut them into a bite size chunks. I just made 4 skewers just from the chicken and two with sweet onion (left in the picture below).

Since I had to use more skewers than usual for cooking in the toaster oven, I also had to use a larger baking pan than usual but the skewers could not reach both rims of the pan. So I had to improvise. I added another metal skewer in the back so that the chicken skewers would not sit in the juice in the bottom of the baking tray. I used the broil function of my toaster oven which turns on the upper elements to highest power. I cooked the chicken without sauce (seasoned only with salt) turning once after 8 minutes until the chicken meat was almost completely cooked. I then smeared two skewers each with one of the three sauces. I then grilled each side for one to 2 more minutes being careful not burn it. (In the picture below, from the right, tare, miso and Yuzu-koshou).

For oven grilled Yakitori, they were not bad at all. The yuzu-koshou ones were rather spicy but not too spicy (at least for me). My wife liked the miso flavor the best. Both agreed “tare” was rather mundane. We had this with Dassai 50 Daiginjou 獺祭５０大吟醸. This sake may have been a bit to gentle and delicate for yakitori.
*Digression alert:
I was wondering about the name of this sake "Dassai" for some time. While I was drinking this sake, I read the label which explained the origin of this name. I supplemented this with some more Google search results. The first letter 獺 means "river otter" or "kawa-uso". The second letter 祭 means "festival". The combined word "Dassai" 獺祭 or "Otter festival" was based on the observation that after catching several fish, the otter will line them up on the river bank before eating them as though making an offering of the fish to it's ancestors. The word "Festival" obviously referred to a commemoration of ancestors such in the "obon" festival. The poet 李商隠 Li Shangyin in the late "Tang" 唐 dynasty called himself 獺祭魚 meaning "fish of the otter festival" equating himself to the fish caught by the otter as he sat among all the books and scrolls of his predecessors lined up around him to give inspiration for new poems. Later the Japanese poet 正岡子規 "Shiki Masaoka" took this name as well and called himself 獺祭書店主人 meaning "master of the otter festival book store". The sake brewery which makes "Dassai" is called "Asahi Sake brewer" 旭酒造 which is located in a small town called 獺越（おそごえ）"osogoe" in Yamaguchi prefecture 山口県. Taking one letter "otter" 獺 from the name of the place, they named their sake 獺祭 or "otter festival".

Simmered warm tofu 煮やっこ

This is a quick dish I made one weekday evening. I got the idea of making this dish from reading the description of simmered tofu which was cooked in the simmering broth in which fish was cooked. This is because I had leftover simmering liquid from cooking a  whole vermilion snapper in the refrigerator. Since this simmering liquid has lots of collagen/protein from the fish, it totally congealed as a gel in the refrigerator and I was looking for how I could use it. I also happened to have about a cup and half of “dashi broth” I made from a “dashi pack” (combination of kelp and bonito flakes). In addition I also had some leftover silken tofu (3/4 block) which was the portion left after I made stir fried tofu, abura-age and daikon greens. So all the constillations were lined up perfectly to make this dish.

I combined the broth and congealed simmering liquid and heated it up. After I tasted the broth, I added soy sauce and sake for a fresh soy sauce taste and for adjusting the seasoning. In addition to the tofu I also boiled quail eggs (from a can) and simmered for 15 minutes or so.

I served it with a garnish of chopped scallion and a dab of hot Japanese mustard. I was afraid that this would taste too “fishy” from the congealed simmering liquid, but I was not fishy at all. It had a nice flavor. This silken tofu (from our Japanese grocery store) was good quality and a perfect snack with sake. I could have done a better presentation, though.

New York Izakaya-style restaurants ニューヨークの居酒屋風レストラン

We recently went to New York with the primary purpose of exploring Izakaya-style restaurants there since they are quite numerous. We did a 3 nights 4 day excursion. We chose the restaurants based on information I gleaned from the Internet. I chose three different style restaurants representing 1. robatayaki/Izakaya style, 2. Sake bar, 3. Yakitori-ya. If we had more time, we could have ventured out to smaller restaurants but we didn’t do that this time because very small places don’t take reservations. (We’ll explore them next time). One of the first places I tried to get a reservation was "Sakagura 酒蔵" which was featured in one of the Anthony Bourdain's episodes on the television show "No Reservations". According to the Sakagura website, they strongly recommended "reservations". (So did "No Reservations" have a "reservation"?) I called several times but no answer and the messages I left were never returned so we had “no reservation” and didn't go there.

This is by no means a restaurant review but more a record for ourselves of the great time we had. Although I took a camera, I did not take any pictures. Somehow, as the meal unfolds and I immerse myself in the enjoyment of the food and drink the idea of taking a picture of the experience becomes distracting and falls by the wayside (even though that doesn’t seem to be the case with the other people snapping pics to the right and left of us). I am sure most of those pictures are destined for Facebook and Instagram to "share" the experience with friends). So all the pictures shown here are either from Google street views (all the outside pics) and from the corresponding websites of the restaurants.

1. Aburiya kinosuke 炙り屋錦乃助
The picture below shows the outside of Aburiya. It is the left entrance of the building with the vertical stripes of green, blue, yellow and red. Despite the bright colors visible in this picture there is not much signage indicating the location of the restaurant except a demure blue "Noren" at the entrance. It was a 20 minute walk from our hotel to the restaurant. I was navigating using Google maps on my iPhone and I knew exactly where we were and where the restaurant was supposed to be located. But we couldn’t find it. We walked back and forth on the block several times but we could not see anything that looked like an Izakaya or Japanese restaurant. We saw the Wyndham Hotel (below left). Was the restaurant located in the hotel? I ended up calling the restaurant. The manager first tried to explain that the entrance was to the right of the Wyndam. There was in fact a restaurant on the right side of the Wyndham but it was definitely not an izakaya. Finally the manager said "just wait there". He came out to the sidewalk found us literally standing in front of the restaurant and ushered us in.  How embarrassing.

Inside is surprisingly large (deep). The front of the restaurant had tables and, in the back, (going down few steps) there was a L-shaped counter which can seat about 10 or more people. Inside the counter, there was a grill and 3 young chefs in Aburiya T-shirts busy at work. On the left side along the wall were a few shelves on which 10 or so individual "Kamameshi" 釜飯 vessels were placed. (see below, this pic is from http://store.shopping.yahoo.co.jp/kappabashi/m10-230.html).

We noticed that occasionally flames appeared under some of the "kama" vessels. This must be how they cook the individual "Kamameshi".  We were advised that if we wanted Kamameshi it would take about 40 minutes so get the order in early. We were seated at the counter in front of the "sashimi" station or #1 and 2. (I specifically asked for counter seating). The chef was busy cleaning and removing the fillets from whole fish which was a good sign. I tried to engage him in conversation but he was too busy. Another chef was in charge of grilling and yet another serving up other dishes.

We started with two cold sake "Uragasumi" 浦霞 (junmai) and "Kokuryu" 黒龍 (Ginjou). They　brought us a wooden box with ice in the bottom and two empty sake carafes (Probably Bizenware 備前焼 or imitation thereof—very nice). Then, they brought up the sake bottles, showed us the labels and then poured into the carafes. A very nice touch assuring us we were actually getting the sake we ordered.

We started with the sashimi three kinds (which were salmon, kampachi and flounder). The sashimi was good (although the salmon was the best sashimi which tells me that tuna and other good sashimi fish must be difficult to get or too expensive). One thing that struck us as different was the use of an artificial-appearing transparent thready thing made of agar-like material* (hope this is not plastic since I ate some of it) instead of the usual daikon "tsuma" 大根のつま garnish. We’d rather not to have any garnish than this stuff.

P.S. Later I came across this item on the Web. It is called "Kaisou-men" 海藻麺 or "Kaisou vidro" 海藻ビードロ (Vidro means "glass" in Portuguese) and made from sea weed.


Although the details of what we ate escapes me a bit, we had "smoked daikon pickles or "Iburi gakko" いぶりがっこ, homemade tofu with three different flavored salts (above picture on the right), firefly squid "okizuke" ホタルイカの沖漬け (excellent!), Tuna "nakaochi" yukke (鮪の中落ちユッケ,  tuna tartar Korean style) with a porched egg or "onsen" tamago 温泉卵. This was in good quantity and tasted good. We had few more items such as pork belly "kakuni" 角煮 (we could not pass up this item, good size and melt-in-your-mouth excellent with honey-flavor). We had more sake (Dassai 獺祭50) and some more food. We were too full for any rice dish to end the evening.

This is not an authentic robatakayaki or Izakaya but it is a very nice drinking place to visit and reminds me of some high-end chain Izakayas in Japan. The counter area, at times, got sort of smoky adding to the atmosphere. There was plenty of hustle and bustle that again added nicely to the atmosphere. It was a great place to “people watch”.

Information on Aburiya Kinosuke
213 E 45th St, New York, NY 10017
212-867-5454
Aburyakinosuke.com

2. Saka mai 酒舞
Since I could not get a reservation at Sakagura, I chose this place. The name "SakaMai" usually means rice specifically grown for making sake or 酒米 but they attached the ideograms 酒舞 meaning "sake" and "dance". It is on the lower east side in an area that apparently used to be a residential with old town houses lining the side streets. The restaurant was a renovated old town house (there was apparently another restaurant at this location previously as you can see in the Google street view below). The best way to direct a taxi cab to the restaurant is to say "Please take us to Katz's delicatessen at E Houston and Ludlow. The cab dropped us off in front of the delicatessen and we worked our way through the crowd of tourists standing out front taking pictures. It was a short one and half block walk from Katz's to SakaMai. The restaurant has been in business for about 6 months according to the Japanese bartender (or mixologist as he preferred to be called) who spoke with a Japanese-British accents (spent 7 years in London) . By the way, the lot next to the SakaMai was still empty as shown in the picture below.

Once inside the restaurant, it is a totally different world from what you may have expected from the streets and exterior. Again it is a large place since it is very deep. The front part had tables and the back had a bar counter as you see below. Nice warm light wood decor. We sat at the counter.

Although we did not come for the cocktails, we decided to take advantage of the expertise of the resident mixologist. The sake based drinks were unique and delicious. My wife had "Haizakura" 灰桜 and I "Sakoudo" 酒人. "Haizakura" is composed of sake, plum wine, salted plum (umeboshi) vinegar and peach liquor. It was interesting and quite good but a bit too sweet for us. "Sakoudo" is a type of "saketini" made with sake, Hendrick's gin, mirin, orange bitters. It has a faint but unmistakable citrus note. I initially thought it had a  "yuzu" flavor. I am not sure it is from the Hendrick's gin or orange bitters but must be the latter.

We then had flights (three small glasses each) of "genshu" 原酒 and "daiginjou" 大吟醸. I do not quite remember all the sake we tasted (taking pictures may have helped). One of the "Genshu" was "Kikusui" 菊水一番しぼり which was poured from an aluminum cup (one of the "cup sake") (see picture below). I do not remember the name of other two now.

The daiginjou flight included "Dassai 50" 獺祭, and Hakkaisan 八海山. We like the third diaginjou which I do not recall the name (despite my wife's telling me to remember the name). We had a cup each of daiginjou and genshu. These sake were not bad but none was extraordinary. We wished more information about the sake we tasted was provided to us especially since this is a sake bar.

For food, we started with "Kampachi" crudo. It is a small serving but nicely done. Good quality kampachi sashimi garnished with finely chopped perilla, myouga and wasabi with shoyu graze. Uni crostini was again small and grilling made the delicate flavor of uni to diminish a little. We also had egg-on-egg-on-egg (picture below). This is a very nice creative dish. Instead of a real sea urchin shell seen in the picture below, it was served in a porcelain bowl made to look like a sea urchin shell. The bottom was nice creamy scrambled egg topped with caviar and uni. You cannot go wrong with this combination but it was excellently prepared.The "chawan mushi" 茶碗蒸し was forgettable. The croquette was ordinary and we could not find any lobster meat albeit it was called lobster croquette. We also had grilled dried skate wings and renkon chips. Interestingly, the renkon chips were the only sizable appetizer we had all evening but they were crisp and addictive.

For the ending dish, we each had a pork bun which was very elegantly done. The pork filling was great--a large tender chunk of pork belly. They have a larger dish of steak and mushroom rice to be shared with 2 or three but we were stuffed so it was out of the question for us.

Information on SakaMai
157 Ludlow Street
New York, NY 10002
(646) 590-0684
sakamai.com


3. Torishin 鳥心
The last day, we went for Yakitori. We took a taxi cab. Having learned that traffic is generally bad at any time we took precautions and started early to get to our reservation on time. But, of course, this was one of those rare instances in New York when our taxi sped through the streets without slowing down (even for the stop lights) and we arrive there 30 minutes earlier that the designated time.

The outside was rather un-assuming. Since I did not take any pictures, this is from the Google maps street view (below). Once inside, the interior was quite nice with lots of light colored wood (second pics below which is from their website).

The restaurant was mostly counter seating with a few small tables. Even though it was fairly early the place was basically packed when we arrived (good thing we had a reservation). We sat at the corner of the counter next to the chef tending the grill.  The menu is very close to Japanese counter parts especially those of more modern/tame chain yakitori places which have proliferated in Japan (I do not indicate a negative here, it is clean and nice).

They had a special cold sake they recommended.  This is supposedly a seasonal special, un-pasteurized or "nama genshu" 生原酒 sake , I think, it was Ichino-kura namagenshu 一の蔵生原酒. There may have been "arabashiri*" 荒走り on the bottle label as well. This was quite good with nice crisp taste and clean fruity notes. Towards the end, we run out of sake and ordered a glass of "Nanbubijin daiginjou" 南部美人. They served us in a glass with a generous spillover into the "masu" ます saucer. Actually, this was the best sake for the evening.

*Arabashiri (meaning "wild runs") is the first portion of sake comes out without any pressure when it was filtered/pressed in the traditional way (not using a modern mechanized press). Supposedly it shows more wild and flavorful sake.


In front of the counter was  a cold display case similar to the kinds seen in any sushi bar. Many prepared skewers were displayed inside. There were two grills (or "Yakidai" 焼き台) one near the right corner where we were seated and the other at the opposite corner.They are boasting the use of Japanese lump charcoal called "binchoutan 備長炭 which is known to burn hot.  Despite the ventilation system just above the grill some smoke escaped every-now-and-then and added to the ambience but never became too smoky as can sometimes happen in small Yakitori places in Japan.

The vegetable skewers were displayed on the top of the cold case in the bamboo basket (see below, again the pic is from the Torishin website). Interestingly there was small sign in the middle of the basket saying "Display only (in English)". We thought these were fake skewers for display only (like realistic models of dishes seen in many restaurants in Japan) and admired how they looked so real. Then, we noticed the woman chef was taking theses skewers from the basket and giving them to the griller. Apparently these are real vegetable skewers. We have no idea, in that case, the meaning of the sign "Display only".

The yakitori menu is rather standard but rare parts are reserved for the "omakase " course and cannot be ordered as a-la-carte which included  two kinds  (from kiel and back bone) of "cartilage" 軟骨, neck meat せせり, kidney 背肝 etc. We just went with a-la-carte. the chicken liver 肝 was underdone (I am sure this was what the grill chef intended) which made us a bit uncomfortable since we had to assume they were from US chickens with the possibility of salmonella. (They said they were using "organic" chickens, whatever that means). Skin 雛皮, tail ぽんじり (ponpochi or ponjiri), heart ハツ, and tsukune つくね were good. Fatty pork belly "tontoto" 豚トロ was also good. Chicken thighs 腿 with different sauces, grilled quail eggs ウズラの卵 and ginko nuts 銀杏 were just OK. Chicken wings 手羽 were small but with a nice crispy skin and were great. As a special vegetable, they had a small radish or "ko-kabu" 小蕪 (which was simmered in dashi broth first, then grilled, and served in a small bowl with sweet miso and vinegar sauce. We were not sure if the grilling added anything.  The sauce was excellent and my wife detected honey in the sauce. For vegetables (we need the nutritional balance), we ordered assorted "tsukemono" 漬物 which was a bit disappointing especially the cucumber was over pickled and too thinly sliced. I do not remember how many more skewers we ordered but the size of the skewers were quite small compared to those in many Yakitori places in Japan. As a result, we ended up eating quite a few skewers. They also have rice dishes (Donburi 丼 or rice bowl affair) but we were quite full and well-watered at this point.  Instead, we went back to our hotel and enjoyed a nice glass of cava at the bar and interesting conversation with the bartender.

Information on Torishin

1193 1st Avenue

New York, NY 10065

(212) 988-8408

torishinny.com‎

Grilled Pork belly "Kakuni" 豚の角煮焼き

Whenever we go to our near-by gourmet grocery store, I cannot resist buying a block of pork belly. The last time was not an exception and I made the usual  "kakuni" 豚の角煮. We restricted the servings to one small piece at a time.  I decided to vary how I served it.

Recently, I found out that there were two cookbooks on Izakaya cuisine in English and bought them. One is called “Izakaya Japanese barfood” and the other is called ”Izakaya Hawaii, Tokkuritei cooking”.  I am planning to post them on the Izakaya cookbook section of this blog soon ("soon" could mean in several months). Flipping over the pages of these cookbooks, I saw a crispy grilled pork belly dish in which the meat was first braised in liquid and then grilled. Since I already had "kakuni" made up, I decided to grill it.

After I warmed up the kauni in the broth I grilled it in the toaster oven (on broil). For the sake of convenience, I skewered one piece of pork belly with two bamboo skewers so that I could easily turn over to cook the other side. I covered the pre-soaked bamboo skewers and also the exposed parts of the skewers with pieces of aluminum foil. Upon reflection I could have just grilled the meat and put the skewers on later. Oh, well.

In any case, this method adds a crunchy crust to this fatty pork. This is definitely worthwhile variation of pork belly "kakuni".