Sunday, September 9, 2018

Cold mackerel ball soup 冷製鯖のつみれ汁

We got a whole Spanish mackerel from the near-by Whole Foods and made our usual miso simmered mackerel 鯖の味噌煮. I also made mackerel fish ball soup 鯖のつみれ汁 from the meat scraped off the bone and tail tip portion of the fish. I just cooked the mackerel fish balls in dashi broth but did not season or finish the soup and placed it in the refrigerator. The next day, it was very hot and humid and my wife suggested we have this soup cold. Following her suggestion, I made this cold soup with mackerel balls, silken tofu and udon noodle as a light lunch.


I just seasoned the broth with concentrated noodle sauce from a bottle and garnished with sliced scallion and yuzu zest (frozen).


Ingredients: (this made 7 meat balls).
Scraped meat from one whole Spanish mackerel (scraped off the bone and also the thin tip of the tail portion)
Scallion, half stalk, finely chopped
Miso and potato starch 1 tbs each
Sake 1 tsp
Roasted sesame oil 1/2 tsp
Ginger root, finely chopped 1/2 tsp
Salt, scant pinch
Japanese broth, 300ml (I made this from a dashi pack with bonito and kelp).
Concentrated noodle sauce from the bottle to taste
Silken tofu and udon noodles (both cold, amount arbitrary)

For garnish
Scallion, 1/2, thinly sliced on bias
Yuzu zest

Directions:
Mince and mix the Spanish mackerel meat, scallion, miso, potato starch, sake, sesame oil, ginger root and salt.
Meanwhile heat-up the Japanese dashi broth and keep it simmering
Using two teaspoons, make a quenelle and drop it into the simmering broth
Cook it gently until all the fish balls float (4-5 minutes)
Let it cool to room temperature and place it in the refrigerator overnight.
In a small bowl, add the broth seasoned with the concentrated noodle sauce, add the fish balls, tofu and udon and garnish.

We liked the warm version but this cold one is also very good especially on a hot and humid summer day in August in Washington.

Thursday, September 6, 2018

Sally Lunn bread サリーラン ブレッド

This is again my wife's baking. This is a very usual and good bread called "Sally Lunn" bread. The original "Sally Lunn bun" was reportedly served in the spa town of "Bath" in England in the 18th century. In the U.S., the same name appears to be attached to breads that are dissimilar from the ones served originally in Bath. This recipe came from "Beard on Bread" and probably represents the latter category.  While the leavening agent is yeast it is a batter bread. This means that the texture of the dough is very unusual and not like regular yeast dough. It is wet, sticky and has to be "poured". My wife never made a bread like this before and wasn't quite sure how to handle it but in the end everything worked out just fine.  Lightly toasted and buttered, this is wonderful.


As you can see lots of holes which make this bread so light.


This is how it looks before toasting. Since it was baked in a tube pan, you have to cut it into wedges which is a bit awkward.


Ingredients:

1 package active yeast
1/4 tsp. sugar (to bloom the yeast)
1/2 cup warm water
1/2 cup lukewarm milk
1 stick butter melted in the milk
1 tsp salt
1/3 cup sugar
3 eggs
3 1/2 to 4 cups all purpose flour

Directions:

Bloom the yeast. Melt the butter in a sauce pan add the milk, sugar and salt. Stir until the sugar and salt melts. Let cool to lukewarm. Add the eggs and stir to combine. Add 3 cups of  flour to the bowl of a stand mixer with a paddle. Add the liquid ingredients to the dry ingredients and mix to incorporate. Slowly add more flour in small amounts at a time to make a "stiff but workable batter" (whatever that meant). (I ended up using a total of 3 1/2 cups flour until I declared the batter "workable".  It was very thick, wet, stretchy and somewhat stringy). According to the recipe: Pour it into a bowel. (Pouring was a bit of a euphemism. It was more like battling it into the bowl against its will.) Let rise until doubled.  Then, again according to directions, beat it down with a wooden spoon for about 1 minute. (Beating it down was the appropriate term here). Scrape it into a heavily buttered tube pan. (This took some doing, particularly to get it evenly distributed around the tube.) Cover and let rise until it reaches the top of the pan. (Initially I did not think that would be possible given the volume shown in the picture below, but to my surprise it not only reached the top but was trying to bust out of the cover by the time I captured it from going over the edge.)


Bake in a 375 degree oven for 45 to 50 minutes or until the bread is dark, golden on top and sounds hollow when rapped. (I thought this may have been a bit too high done next time I may try a shorter time). Turn out onto a rack to cool. (I was amazed at the final result shown below and even more amazed when we cut it into wedges and tasted it...what a beaut!)


Slice into wedges as shown below.


This was a remarkable bread making experience. This bread is very light and airy as you can see in the picture. I has a nice mild slightly sweet flavor. The crust is nice and crunchy especially when toasted. Who would have thought yeast bread could be made like this?

Monday, September 3, 2018

Otoshi three kinds including octopus sashimi タコ刺身、酢味噌和えとおとうし三種

This was the starting lineup for dinner one weekend evening. I had just come back from our Japanese grocery store burdened with all kinds of "goodies"; "ikura" いくら salmon roe, boiled octopus leg, fish cake, steamed squid salad Chinese style, and other items. So this was a quick and easy starter to prepare.  I used a store-bought "sashimi" soy sauce  刺身醤油 (small bottle shown below). Regular soy sauce is made with a mixture of soybeans, Koji rice, salt and water. It is somewhat watery and clear in appearance. In contrast this "sashimi" soy sauce is made differently. It uses either Tamari たまり, which is made from 100% soybeans (instead of a mixture of soybeans and koji-rice)  or it uses "double prepared" soy sauce or "Saishikomi-shoyu" 再仕込み醤油.  This is double prepared because soy sauce is substituted for the water used in regular soy sauce and is brewed again to make the "double prepared" soy sauce. As a result of this double brewing, it is thicker and more viscous than regular soy sauce. Depending on the brands, it may also contain "dashi" or "mirin" or other additions. For us, the difference is subtle but we occasionally have this special soy sauce for sashimi.


I served octopus two ways; one was sliced thinly with a wave pattern, which is called "sazanami-giri" 漣切り meaning "ripple cut".  My version is more like "big wave cut". This is done so that when dipping in wasabi and the afore-mentioned sashimi soy sauce, the surface will hold the sauce. The other is a tip portion cut into small chunks and dressed in "karashi sumiso" 芥子酢味噌.


The dressing is a mixture of miso, sugar and  and rice vinegar in 2:1:1 ratio and added prepared Japanese hot mustard to taste. Recently, I have reduced the vinegar (as per my wife's request) and added a small amount of hot water (from our "instant" hot water dispenser using RO filtered water). This makes the dressing milder and also dissolves the sugar better. I also added small chunks ("rangiri" 乱切り) of American mini cucumber.


Shown below is store-bought fish cake which we like. I grilled it in the toaster oven and dressed with ginger soy sauce (mixture of grated ginger and soy sauce). Since I had chives, I also added chopped chives.


This is another store bought drinking snack made of steamed squid with a "Chinese" style dressing called  "Ika-chuka-sansai" イカ中華山菜. Depending on the brand, the taste and ingredients vary  a little but this is not bad at all (except some of  the large chunks of squid was too chewy for my wife and she graciously transferred them to me).


This is the only one I really made. Cucumber suno-mono with small dried shirasu (whitebait/dried sardine hatchlings) garnished with ikura  しらす入りきゅうりの酢の物. Thinly sliced cucumber (American mini-cucumber), salted with moisture wrung out, mixed with "shirasu" (frozen in a package), dressed in sweet vinegar and garnished with ikura.


For a change, we started the evening with  tokubetsu junmai "Suigei" 特別純米酒 酔鯨 sake from Kochi in Shikoku 高知、四国. This is a  dry sake with acidity but not yeasty at all and went well with these snacks.

Friday, August 31, 2018

Cheese muffin チーズマフィン

This is another one of my wife's baking. The original recipe is from the "Beard on Bread" cookbook. This is a very cheesy muffin and we really like it.


Since this is very cheesy, it is best suited as a dinner roll rather than a breakfast roll. But it works for us either way.


Ingredients:
 1 package yeast
1/4 cup warm water + 1/2 tsp sugar to bloom the yeast
4-6 cups bread flour
1 Tbs. sugar
2 tsp. salt
1 1/2 cup water
1/4 cup (one half stick) butter softened
1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper (more or less depending on taste)
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese (or slightly more to taste)
3/4 cup shredded Gruyere cheese.

Directions:
Bloom the yeast in the 1/4 cup water and 1/2 tsp sugar. Add 4 cups of the bread flour (to start) to stand mixer with dough hook. Add the sugar, salt, 1 1/2 cup water. While mixing on speed 2 add the butter cut into smaller pieces, the pepper, the cheeses and amalgamate after each addition, . Keep adding flour until a soft smooth dough is formed around the hook. Then knead for 7 to 10 minutes.

Place the dough in a warm bowl and coat it with a small film of vegetable oil. Let rise until doubled. Punch down the dough.  If making loaves form dough into two loaves of equal weight and put into heavily greased loaf pans. Cover and let rise until dough is slightly higher than the edges of the loaf pan. Bake in 375 degree oven for 30 minutes or until golden brown and sound hollow when tapped.

 If making rolls use a heavily greased medium sized Pyrex baking pan. Make rolls weighing 2 1/2 oz. each. Bake at 400 for 18 to 20 minutes until golden brown and sound hollow when tapped. For both the loaves and rolls immediately remove from the pans and cool on a rack.

These rolls are full of savory flavor. First the cheesy, parmesan flavor steps forward followed by the pleasant zing of the cayenne pepper. They have a lovely tender texture.  This is a great accompaniment for brunch or lunch

Tuesday, August 28, 2018

Steamed nagaimo with bonito flakes 蒸し長芋のおかかがけ

This is a very simple recipe I saw on the E-recipe site. Nagaimo 長芋 is usually "slimy" which makes it difficult for some to like. Once nagaimo is cooked, however, it looses the "sliminess" but the texture also changes from "shaki-shaki" シャキシャキ or crunchiness to "hoku-hoku" ホクホク. I am not sure how to translate "hoku-hoku" but it is a texture of cooked potato such as "Yaki-imo" 焼き芋.


Just before serving, I added a good amount of bonito flakes which are called "okaka" おかか or  "kezuri-bushi" 削り節 i.e. thinly shaven "katsui-bushi" 鰹節. I just used the pre-shaven kind that comes in one serving sized packages. We added some soy sauce just before eating.


Ingredients and directions:
Nagaimo, skin removed, cut in half lengthwise and then sliced into 1/4 inch slices (below).


Place the nagaimo in a steaming basket after a strong steam started. Cook it for 8-10 minutes.


Just before serving, add bonito flakes and soy sauce.

This is an interesting and simple dish. My wife, has no trouble getting past the nagaimo "sliminess" and thought the crunchiness of raw nagaimo is nicer. She liked another nagaimo dish I recently made with daikon and dressed in "Yukari" red perilla salt and sweet vinegar.

Saturday, August 25, 2018

Corn bread with raw corn and sage セージ味コーンブレッド

This is another one of my wife's baking. The recipe is based on one from La Brea Bakery Cookbook. We had this cookbook for many years but we did not really made anything from it until now. This is an interesting corn bread which uses raw corn and also fresh sage (from our herb garden). My wife also used corn flour instead of cornmeal which made the texture of the bread much more tender.


I did not take a special serving picture and we couldn't restrain ourselves so we nibbled the nice crunchy top crust off one of the loaves right after the bread came out of the oven and before taking this picture which explains the missing crust portions in the picture below.


The interesting part of this recipe is that you cook graded raw corn, butter and sage (almost polenta) to make dough for this bread. We liked the first batch so much my wife made a second batch and we restrained ourselves from eating the crust so the picture below is intact.


The recipe called for putting sage leaves in the bottom of the bread pan. The notation suggested this was better than putting it on the top where it would burn while the bread cooked. The end result as shown below may add to the sage flavor but at the very least it is decorative.




Ingredients:

1 1/2 cup grated corn
1 stick butter
6 large sage leaves (or several sprigs of rosemary)
1 1/2 tsp salt
2 large eggs
1 cup buttermilk
3/4 cup corn flour (or corn meal)
2 cups All Purpose (AP) flour
1/2 tsp baking soda
2 tsp baking powder
1/4 cup sugar (or more for a slightly sweeter muffin)

Directions:
Grate the ears of corn on a stand grater. Scrape the ears with the back of the knife to get the remaining "corn milk" (#1).  Melt the butter in a saucepan (do not allow it to boil or brown). Mix in the grated corn, salt, and sage leaves. Cook until creamy and thickened, making a kind of polenta (shown below). Remove the sage leaves. To achieve a really smooth emersion blend it further in a “motor boat” blender. Allow the mixture to cool. Add the buttermilk and eggs and mix until blended.


In a large bowl sift together the corn flour (#2)(or corn meal), AP flour, baking soda, baking powder, and sugar (#3). Add the liquid ingredients (#4) and stir until blended. Add to greased loaf pan. (either small individual sized loaf pans or one large pan) (#5 & #6). As suggested by the original recipe, I put a sage leaf on the bottom the the loaf pan (#7) and poured the batter on top (#8). (I'm not sure if this added to the sage flavor or was just for decoration.) Cook in 400 degree oven for 18 to 20 minutes for muffins, 20 to 25 minutes for small loaves and 30 to 40 minutes for large loaf or until a skewer comes out clean and the loaves are nicely browned.


This bread is lovely. As it cooked the smell of corn, butter and sage filled the house. It's flavor reflects these smells and is a very pleasant combination of corn and sage flavor. The texture is very tender. It is wonderful lightly toasted with melted butter.

Wednesday, August 22, 2018

Sardine dashimaki イワシの出汁巻

Some time ago, when I was at our Japanese grocery  store, I bought a package of simmered and seasoned small sardines or anchovies ("Katkuchi Iwashi" 片口鰯). We ate some of the sardines as a nice snack to go well with sake. We still had some leftover, however, so I made Japanese "dashimaki" omelet 出汁巻 with the sardine inside. I also had a small portion leftover from sous vide cooked chicken breast. which I served as though it was a piece of sashimi, with wasabi and soy sauce. I also served blanched sugar snaps soaked in seasoned dashi broth cut lengthwise.


The sardines were rather strongly seasoned with soy sauce and mirin (and sugar?) but they went very well with the slightly sweetened egg omlet. This is similar to "U-maki" 鰻巻き in which cooked and seasoned eel is used.


This was a nice small dish to start the evening and went well with cold sake. The combination of soft omelet and slightly crunchy fish made a very satisfying bite. The heavy seasoning of the fish also amalgamated nicely with the slightly sweet taste of the omelet.