Sashimi big eye tuna "akami" and "Hotaru-ika" firefly squid メバチマグロの赤身とほたるイカ

 Spring is the season for a species of small squid called "Hotaru-ika" ほたるイカ or Firefly squid. It is so-called because it emits a bioluminescent light like a firefly. Some years ago when we traveled to Kanazawa 金沢 and Kyoto 京都 in spring, we really enjoyed “Hotaru-ika” at various Izakayas 居酒屋. Because this squid has parasites, it must be cooked (boiled) or frozen at -30C for 4 days. That means a regular home freezer (-22 C or 0F) is not adequate. This is not a “ DIY (do it yourself ) home project”. The squid has to come from a commercial source with the resources to at least freeze it properly. While in Kanazawa, we learned, through multiple tastings that our favorite way to eat it is “Okizuke” 沖ずけ. Although this dish is made of uncooked marinated squid it is special to Toyama prefecture 富山県 (Kanazawa city is the capital) where they know to make it safe by appropriately freezing it before making it into okizuke 沖ずけ.  “Oki-zuke” literally means “offshore marinated”. Traditionally, fishermen took the marinade with them on the boat and as they caught the squid , threw it into the marinade. By the time, they got back to shore, it was perfectly marinated. Although traditional, this method is not safe since the parasites will not be killed in a marinade. 

In any case, recently, I mentioned to my wife (who is particularly fond of firefly squid), that  it was the season and I was reading that many of the food bloggers I follow, were enjoying this seasonal delicacy. We had hotaru-ika at Tako Grill some years ago so we thought we should be able to get this in the U.S. A quick search of the internet turned up a company called “Regalis food”. They sell boiled firefly squid among other gourmet food items. They are more geared up for supplying restaurants rather than individual customers, however, so the minimal amounts required for purchase are a bit large. Nonetheless we ordered the minimum 300 grams (or three trays) of boiled firefly squid (which was shipped from Long Island) and the minimum 3 lbs. of big eye tuna akami  (which was shipped  from California). Although coming from different places both shipments arrived at the same time; (over night delivery).

The first picture shows one of the trays of hotaru-Ika.

 

This picture of the tuna akami is the tail portion near the back with skin on. The piece arrived whole; I cut it into portions before this picture was taken. Since I did not have much time, I did not cut the tuna into sashimi blocks (or “saku”). I just removed “chi-ai” 血合い cut it into 4 portions with skin on.  I only prepared one portion for sashimi.  The rest, I vacuum packed and froze for a later time. 

I served the akami with some vegetables. After removing the hard “eye” or “beak” from the firefly squid, I served them with sumiso 酢味噌 dressing.

The Akami of big eye tuna is not too bad. Certainly much better than frozen yellowfin tuna we often have.

Serving the squid with sumiso sauce is certainly a very common presentation. The plate of hotaru-ika shown here is half of one tray (so, the two of us finished a whole tray or 100grams). I think what makes hotaru-ika so special is that the squid are very small and each squid makes one pleasant mouthful. The first part of the experience is the pleasing texture of biting into the soft squid body followed by the  release of the lovely taste of the squid meat then the rich flavor of the innards especially the slightly bitter taste of the liver. Trust me, it tastes much better than the description sounds. 

We feel very fortunate we can enjoy the firefly squid in U.S. Hopefully we can visit the Iizakaya in Kanazawa and enjoy local sake with okizuke firefly squid again sometime soon.

Japanese milk bread with cream cheese クリームチーズで作った日本風ミルクパン

 This is an addition to the on-going saga of my wife making Japanese-style milk bread. As a gift, we received several large hard cover cookbooks; one was the “French Laundry Cookbook” and another was “Bouchon Bakery”. While browsing through the books my wife found a recipe called “Pain-au-Lait Pullman loaf”. Since she can read French fairly well, she immediately recognized this translated to “milk bread”. As she read the recipe, she found out it was indeed a Japanese style milk bread but they replaced the milk with cream cheese to make the crumb more moist. Although she thought she had already baked a full gambit of Japanese milk breads, she determined this was a variation she had not yet attempted and, besides, cream cheese is one of her favorite ingredients. So she went for it. The instructions were a bit unusual (read: incomprehensible. For example at one point it says, and this is a direct quote, “mix on low speed for 4 minutes. Continue to mix on low speed for 30 minutes” (huh??) Would that be 34 minutes of continuous mixing ?!!) So she consulted me and we decided to follow our CCK (Common Culinary Knowledge). In addition since we do not have “Pullman” bread pans, we made the bread using a regular loaf pan. It came out quite well as seen below. This is a close tie with the original milk bread I made. But a slightly different flavor due to the cream cheese. Lightly toasted with butter...perfect for breakfast with a cup of Cappuccino or Cafe latte.

Since we did not use a pullman baking pan, top are round instead of flat.

Ingredients:
547 g. AP flour
1 3/4 tsp yeast
32 g. sugar
11 g. salt
285 g. water
35 g. egg (probably one small egg)
25 g. butter (cut into cubes)
79 g. cream cheese (cut into cubes)

Recipe doubled:
1094 g. AP flour
3 1/2 tsp yeast
64 g. sugar
2 tsp. salt
570 g. water (or milk)
2 eggs
50 g. butter (cut into cubes)
158 g. cream cheese (cut into cubes)

Directions:
Put the dry ingredients in the bowl of a stand mixer with a dough hook. Mix the water and the eggs together. Slowly add the mixture to the dry ingredients until incorporated. Add the butter and cream cheese. Continue mixing until it is incorporated. Add additional flour as necessary to achieve a smooth dough. Continue kneading for 7 to 10 minutes. Put in a bowl. Coat with vegetable oil cover and put into a proofing box set at 81 degrees until doubled in size. Deflate the dough. Form into two balls and put touching together into a heavily greased loaf pan. Return to the proofing box and let rise until slightly higher than the rim of the loaf pan. Bake in a 375 degree oven for 25 to 30 minutes or until it sounds hollow when tapped. We also made this bread as a muffin (3 oz. in large pyrex). While the muffin is good we think it is better as a loaf of bread. 

This was one of the best milk breads my wife made. The texture was very soft but moist. It had a nice rich flavor and although I couldn’t taste it, my wife claimed she could taste a hint of the cream cheese which made it different from the previous variations she made. Toasted with butter...as I said perfect!

Senkin Muku Modern 仙禽無垢モダーン純米大吟醸無濾過

 I have not done a post just about sake for a long time but this one is worth a special post. This is called "Senkin Muku Modern Junmai daiginjou" 仙禽*　無垢　モダーン　純米大吟醸 from Senkin sake brewery from Sakura city in Tochigi prefecture 栃木県さくら市. The sake rice is Yamada-nishiki 山田錦 from the local area. According to their website, they emphasize "Domaine" like French wineries, making sake reflecting their “terroir” 風土, water 水, rice 米, and brewery 蔵. 

As soon as I took a sip of this sake I noticed a very crisp acidity reminiscent of a crisp Sauvignon blanc. It was almost effervescent. This was followed by a floral fruity taste. The crisp acidity mellowed somewhat after some time in the glass. The difference in taste between most sakes, especially “daiginjou” class, is very subtle but this one really stands out. We quite like this sake. The pictures below are of the front and back labels.

*Digression alert: “Sen-kin” 仙禽 

“Sen” in ideograms “仙” is composed of two components; one of the left means “man or human” 人 and the right means “mountain” 山. Although it appears redundant, this person also called   “sen-nin” 仙人 it is “a man living in a mountain”. This is based on an old Chinese mythology that an old man with long white hair carrying a staff  living in a high inaccessible mountain sustaining himself just on air or “kasumite” 霞. I am not sure he is a type of deity or holy man but he is immortal. 

“Kin” 禽 means “bird” since this bird is accompanying “sen-nin”, it is assumed to be a crane. The label (the picture above on the left” for exported sake), therefore, includes “immortal wing”.

Hanami 2021 with healthy 4 Japanese appetizers 花見 ２０２１

This year the cherry blossoms were early. We read it was the earliest full bloom of cherry blossom in Kyoto in 1,200 years. We have three cherry trees in our backyard; two were here when we moved in and one we planted 30 some years ago which was destroyed by a Nor'Easter in 2018. We replace this with a small cherry tree and it has grown but is still small. Usually these trees bloom sequentially rather than simultaneously but this year all three bloomed with some overlap in timing. So we had a few days when all three trees were at various stages of blossom and we enjoyed "Hanami" 花見. One day was warm enough for us to sit outside on the deck. Other days were cold or rainy so we enjoyed Hanami from inside. 

In the early morning on March 28 it was still a bit dark but through the cherry blossoms I spotted the full moon in the sky. This was the "Paschal moon"; the first full moon after the spring equinox. It is the moon on which the date for Easter is based i.e. Easter is the first Sunday after the Paschal Moon. True to form, Easter is next Sunday 4/4/2021. This moon is also known as "Worm moon". So named, supposedly, because worms start to emerge as the ground warms up. 

The picture below is of the cherry tree we planted in 2018 to replace the one that was destroyed in the nor’easter. It has grown a lot in the last 3 years but another 3 years will add to its role for hanami. Still it provided viewing enjoyment.

These are four appetizers I served one hanami evening. Before these dishes, we had Tuna sashimi made with frozen yellow fin tuna block from Great Alaska Seafood キハダマグロ.  As usual, I served it in marinated "Zuke" style ズケ; the surface charred with a kitchn blow torch in "Tataki" style たたき. I also  made a portion of it into imitation  “negitoro” ネギトロ,  We then had cold chawanmushi with marinated Ikura salmon roe 冷製茶碗蒸し. The four dishes shown below are the last dishes I served. They are vegetable rich and, hopefully, healthy items. 

This is a sort of salad made with dried persimmon 干し柿と大根の甘酢和え.  A recipe online was the inspiration of this dish but I did not follow the recipe. Besides the dried persimmon, which is cut into small bite sized pieces, I added daikon, carrot, sweet onion in sweet vinegar with added ground sesame and a splash of sesame oil. I garnished with roasted cashew nuts (or walnuts but the cashew happened to be available). The sweetness of the dried persimmon and the sweet vinegar dressing went well together. The dried persimmon got really soft and over time basically dissolved into the dressing.

This dish was a variation of the dish I made before from canned mackerel 鯖の水煮缶詰と大根. But in addition to daikon, I added cabbage and tofu and blanched broccoli just before serving.

This is “Hijiki” seaweed with carrot and deep fried tofu ひじきの炒め煮, exactly the same as I made before.

The last is a classic “mishime” 煮〆. It is simmered vegetables seasoned with soy sauce, mirin, and dashi broth. It includes shiitake, carrot, gluten cake “hanabu” 花麩. The rectangular pieces are freeze dried tofu or “shimidoufu” 凍み豆腐. I cooked this separately with much sweeter broth (I guess in Kyoto style). You cannot see it but there is renkon  on the bottom.

At this point, we were well fed and watered and gazing at the beautiful cherry blossoms. We were just enjoying existence.

Tai-meshi 鯛めし

When I bought Hokkaido rice “Yumepirika” 北海道米ゆめぴりか from the  New York Rice factory, I found that they offer other items which add to the enjoyment of  rice such as “frikake” ふりかけor “umeboshi” 梅干し. One such item was a kit for making “red snapper rice” or “tai-meshi” 鯛めし. I bought the kit since this reminded me of a trip we took to Matsuyama, Shikoku 四国松山 in 2017. On that trip, we ate  “Tai-meshi” (Japanese seasoned rice cooked with pieces of red snapper). The fish is caught in the “Setonaikai” in-land sea 瀬戸内海 area and “Tai-meshi” is famous for the area.

Digression alert: Below is a picture of the restaurant called “Tai-ya” 鯛や in Matsuyama where we ate the tai-meshi. It was a converted old Japanese residential house. They only serve “tai-meshi” and only for lunch. You need to make a reservation ahead of time. I do not remember but there may have been two time slots you could choose from. For most customers, the lunch is served on a low individual Japanese table in a tatami room. We just could not sit properly on tatami to eat lunch; it was far too uncomfortable.  They were kind enough to provide us with an upstairs room with chairs and Western style table. 

Here is “Tai-meshi” that we ate. It was served in a wooden rice container called “Ohitsu” お櫃. I am sure this was cooked in a traditional Japanese rice cooking iron pot called “hagama” 羽釜. It included the bottom charred part called “Okoge” おこげ. 

The first time we bought rice from the rice factory, “Yumepirika”  was not available. As compared to “Nanatsuboshi”, this one is much softer. We like “Yumepirika” better as a straight rice but for sushi, we like “Nanatsuboshi”. We also got “Mochi-rice” 餅米 called “Hokkaido Hakuchomochi” 北海道白鳥餅. This is a type of rice from which “mochi” cake is made. I like to mix this type of rice with the regular type in seasoned rice since it gives a better chewy texture.

There appear to be a few variations of  the tai-meshi dish. It turns out that the kit I bought from New York Rice Factory was a variation close to what we had at the tai-meshi restaurant in Japan. It was very similar to what we remembered from the restaurant and was pretty good. I garnished it with “Kizami-nori” 刻みのり but I should have used “mitsubishi” ミツバ. 

This kit came in a fairly large paper bag (#1 below). It contained a good amount of cooked and marinated skin-on vacuum packed red snapper chunks, seasoning sauce, a piece of kelp, bonito flakes, and a mylar pouch containing what appeared to be freeze dried deep fried tofu and shredded carrot. Following the instructions to use 2 cups of rice  (I used one cup each of “Yumepirika” and “Hakucho-mochi” rice), I rinsed the rice and added water to the level indicated in the rice cooker for two cups. I then mixed in the tai fish with its marinade, and freeze dried items and placed the kelp on the top (#2). 

Once the rice finished cooking the freeze dried items coated the surface of the rice (#3). After removing the kelp. I mixed the items coating the surface into the rice (#4).  We were quite impressed with the results. The large chunks of marinated fish were very good, the seasoning was authentically close to the dish we had in Japan. The inclusion of separate kelp and bonito flakes really added to the complexity of the flavor. The New York Rice Factory also has a kit for “Tako-meshi” タコ飯 or “octopus rice”, again famous in the In-land sea area. We may try that next when we have a chance. In any case, making and tasting “Tai-meshi” bought us back to this memory. We will have to be satisfied with such memories until we can get past this covid thing and travel again.

Pork with chick-pea (and navy beans) curry 豚肉と雛豆のカレー

This is another curry/stew made from the trimmings of skin-on and bone-in large pork butt roast we have been getting. As usual, after removing the skin and bones, I made two roasts; one for barbecue in the Weber and another for simmered pork. The remaining meat was cut up for stew. I simmered the stew meat ahead of time in chicken broth and kept it in the refrigerator with the broth. I then commissioned my wife to make something from it. She consulted her trusty Indian Cookbook by Madhur Jaffrey. The original recipe was supposedly pork chops with chickpeas. But as indicated above the pork stew meat was substituted for the pork chop. In addition by mistake, my wife opened a can of navy beans as well as a can of chickpeas. So navy beans were substituted for some of the chickpeas. (Note from Wifey: Both cans showed white beans on the label and I was concentrating on the inventory control of using the cans with the oldest expiration dates. I didn’t notice the cans were for different beans until I opened them) So as usual the ordinal recipe was basically “advisory”. This is not spicy hot but lots of spices went in. Like other curry, I served this over rice, with blanched broccoli and Japanese curry accompaniments, rakyo (white items in the picture below) and fukishinzuke (red one).

Since we precooked the pork in the broth, it came out extra tender. The combination of navy beans and chickpeas worked well.

As usual, I ask my wife to provide the recipe.

Ingredients
1 can of navy beans
1 can of chickpeas
3 garlic cloves
1 1/2 inch cube of ginger sliced
3 Tbs. chicken stock
1/4 tsp. cardamom
4 bay leaves
1 inch cinnamon stick
3 medium onions peeled and coarsely chopped
1 Tbs. ground cumin
1 Tbs. ground coriander
1 Tsp. ground turmeric
3 medium tomatoes peeled
3 parsnips peeled and cut into pennies (original recipe called for potatoes)
1 Tbs. salt
1 cup of mushrooms sliced
1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper or to taste 

Directions:
Put the ginger, garlic, and chicken stock in a food processor with a blade. Pulse until it forms a paste.
Put several Tbs. oil in a frying pan. Add the cardamom, bay leaves and cinnamon. Heat until the spices bloom and become fragrant. Add the onions and stir until they are partially caramelized. Add the ginger garlic paste and stir until the garlic smells fragrant and the mixture has been incorporated with the onions. add the cumin, coriander, and turmeric stirring until they become fragrant. Add the parsnips (or potato) and tomato. Mash the tomato. Cook gently until the parsnips become soft. Add the beans and the stewed pork with the liquid in which it was cooked. Cook for 20 minutes until all the flavors meld. If the curry looks too soupy reduce it on low heat until the desired consistency is reached.

This was a pretty good curry. The mixture of chickpeas and navy beans worked out well. They absorb the flavor of the spices and add a creaminess to the curry sauce. The pork was deliciously tender. The parsnips added their characteristic sweetness. Although the curry was not hot (my wife forgot to add the cayenne pepper) it had multidimensional layers of flavor. A great way to eat pork trimmings.

Irish-style soda bread #3 アイルランド風ソーダブレッド ＃3

 This is the third and last of my wife’s Irish soda bread baking binge. This one is quite different from the “traditional” recipe. This came from “Nancy Silverton’s Pastries from the La Brea Bakery”.  It is much more complicated than the traditional recipe. (It wouldn’t be La Brea if it wasn’t). It is a muffins/roll and uses eggs, butter, sugar and Caraway seeds. This one is accordingly called  “Irish-style”. As a result, it has a very different flavor from the traditional. (Although I used an Easter bunny plate for the picture, my wife pointed out that I covered up the “bunny’s” face with the bread when I took a picture below so only his feet are showing). (Sorry).

Like all the other Irish soda breads my wife made this has the same rough brown texture on the crust.

I will ask my wife to fill in the rest.

Ingredients
3 3/4 cups AP flour
1/2 cup whole wheat flour
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup wheat flakes (I didn’t have any so I left it out)
1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1 Tbs. baking powder
1 Tsp. baking soda
1 Tbs. lemon zest (or 2 tsp. lemon flavoring)
2 Tbs. caraway seeds
1/2 stick (2 oz.) butter cut into 1/2 inch cubes and frozen
1 3/4 cup buttermilk

1 egg

Directions:
In a bowl whisk together the dry ingredients from the AP flour to the the caraway seeds so they are well distributed. In the bowl of a food processor with a steel blade add some of the mixed dry ingredients with the butter and pulse until it resembles fine meal. Add the rest of the mixed dry ingredients and continue pulsing. (I found this works better to fully incorporate the butter. If all the mixed dry ingredients are added at once the butter remains in cubes.) Put the dry mixture into a large bowl. Mix the buttermilk and egg. If using lemon flavoring add it to the buttermilk now. Mix the buttermilk egg mixture into the dry mixture. Mix just until everything is incorporated. (I found I had to add more buttermilk for the dough to form otherwise it would have been just crumbs and not held together). Turn out onto a floured surface and gently pat into it together. (The original recipe calls for patting it into a 1/2 inch thick rectangle and then cutting it into various shapes using about 1/2 cup of dough for each shape.) I just took a 1/2 cup measure. filled it with dough and turned it out onto a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake in a 375 degree oven for 35 to 40 minutes.

This was without a doubt the most complex and refined version of the Irish soda breads my wife made. It had depth of flavor. The caraway seed with the slight hint of lemon was a very good addition. It had the familiar rough crunchy crust and soft moist interior. Traditionalist would say, “but it is not genuine soda bread.” Next time my wife said she would make it even less so by adding raisins.