Izakaya in Sapporo Part 6 札幌の居酒屋パート6

7. Yakitori Gyoza Ikenoya 焼き鳥餃子のいけのや

札幌市中央区南三条西３-１-１ サンスリービル ３F

San Three Bldg 3F
Minami 3, Nishi 3, Chuo-ku
Sapporo

For reservation: 050-5462-4700, Credit card accepted, Smoking allowed

I came up with this place because of the unusual combination of yakitori and gyoza and the generally good review I saw on line. It was located on the third floor of an old building. Fortunately a small elevator took us to the 3rd floor. Although we made a reservation it appeared to be unnecessary because when we got there only two customers were at the counter. They suggested we take a table (low table with leg holes). We asked if we could sit at the counter. Interestingly, they had Muroran style yakitori but they called it “buta kushi 豚串 or pork skewer” (picture below) and it was not served with yellow mustard on the side. Initially each order included two skewers per order but after few orders, we could order just one.

The yakitori was good but in general we did not taste a pronounced charcoal flavor. After the last regular, who was quite drunk left, we were only the customers during our stay that evening. We really liked the “tsukune with salted “umeboshi 梅ぼし”plum and “shiso シソ” perilla flavors 梅しそつくね”. We ordered a second one. The master had to make it from scratch which he did in front of us and it was even better than the first (which was clearly premade). It had more pronounced umeboshi 梅ぼし salt plum flavor than the first. We had more food but did not get to the gyoza.

This was our last night in Sapporo for this visit. The next day, we arrived in Haneda, Tokyo. We checked in to the hotel which is directly connected to Terminal 3. We had our last evening in a Japanese restaurant on the 4th floor of terminal 3 (Edo Market Place 江戸小路). We were so focused on our immanent departure the next day that we didn’t think to take any pictures so we didn’t include it in our izakaya write up series. Although it was a Japanese restaurant, they had enough individual small dishes and sake selection that it was like an Izakaya. We liked the restaurants in Haneda Terminal 3 more than Narita Airport.

Mapo (sort of) Eggplant “麻婆風” 茄子

This is another one of the “use-up the eggplant dishes”. I have posted a similar dish “Mapo-eggplant 麻婆茄子” before. This is a variation. It is seasoned like “Mapo-tofu  麻婆豆腐” but uses eggplant instead of tofu. Although ground pork is usually used in both Mapo-tofu and Mapo-eggplant I used left-over roasted pork cut up into small pieces. I also added fresh shiitake and wood ear mushrooms since I had them. The appearance is similar to another eggplant dish I made (Eggplant stir-fry with oyster sauce), the seasoning however, is different. The hot smoked (in the Weber grill) pork roast adds a nice smoky flavor. I like this version better than the one using ground pork.

Ingredients:
1 Asian Eggplant (long skinny kind), skin peeled into two strips, cut into relatively large (1 inch) “rangiri 乱切り”
3 tbs + 1/2 tbs vegetable oil
1 tsp each finely chopped ginger and garlic
2 scallions, white parts finely chopped and green part thinly sliced
5-6 fresh shiitake mushroom caps, cut into quarters or halves, depending on the size
5-6 fresh wood ear mushrooms (previously blanched and washed), cut into small strips
5-6 slices of smoked and roasted pork, cut into small squares
1 tbs potato starch in 1 tbs water (for thickening)

Seasonings (mix in a small bowl):
1 tsp toubanjan 豆板醤, more if you like it spicy
1 tsp tenmenjan 甜麺醤
1 tsp Japanese “koji” miso 麹みそ
1 tbs Chinese cooking wine 紹興料理酒
1 tbs mirin
1-2 tsp soy sauce or concentrated Japanese noodle sauce
2-3 tbs water

Directions:
Add the 3 tbs oil into a frying pan on medium flame. Add the eggplant. Toss to coat all the surfaces of the eggplant.
Turn the eggplant pieces skin side down and cook a few minutes and then turn them over to the fresh sides to lightly brown (another 2-3 minutes).
Set aside.
In the same pan, add the remaining 1/2 tbs oil, sauté the scallion (white parts), ginger and garlic.
Add the shiitake and wood ear mushrooms and sauté for a few minutes.
Add back the eggplant and add in the pork, toss to mix.
Add the seasoning mixture and simmer for a few minutes.
Add the green part of the scallion.
Drizzle in the potato starch slurry in several batches and mix until thickened, let it come to a rapid boil before turning off the heat.

This was a very savory satisfying dish. It also used the last of the eggplants we got from Weee this time. 

Izakaya in Sapporo Part 5 札幌の居酒屋パート5

6. Isari 酒菜家漁　いさり

北海道札幌市中央区南７条西３丁目　セブンビル1Ｆ

Seven Bldg 1F
Minami 7 Nishi 3, Chuo-ku
Sapporo

For reservation 011-551-7733, Credit card accepted, Smoking allowed

One reason we went this place is that it was located in the “Seven building セブンビル”. This building used to be a hospital with the residence attached to it. It was owned/run by a physician who happened to be the father of my good friend’s wife. The building has been converted into a commercial building housing multiple izakayas and drinking places. The last time we were inside the building, however, we spotted some institutional hallmarks of its past as a hospital such as the stairs which are characteristic of  a medical center rather than general commercial place. They were wide, solidly made of concrete with metal treads suggesting institutional strength and cleaning  Some years ago, when we were in Sapporo, we had dinner with my friend and his wife in one of the drinking places housed in the building. My friend’s wife kept us regaled with very interesting stories about growing up this building part of which was the family residence and part of which was the hospital run by her father. The front facade is very distinctive with multiple round windows. My wife notice this building while we were riding past in a taxi. When I was searching for the next izakaya to visit, this one came up. I noticed this izakaya was located on the 1st floor and could be entered at the side of the building so you wouldn’t have to go through the main part of the building (i.e. the hospital).  (This  would have been the entrance to the family residence). I decide to pay it a visit and made a reservation.

The name of this izakaya “Isari 漁り” means “to fish” in old Japanese. Only reference to “isari”  I know was “Isari-bi 漁火” which is the fire/light used to lure fish at night. In any case, the name implied seafood was the main focus of the izakaya. We got a small low table with the “leg hole” underneath.

The first round of ordering had to be done by writing our orders on a small slip of paper. I am not sure what was the purpose of this but I obliged. Since assorted sashimi often included items we, especially my wife, did not particularly like (such as chewy octopus or sinewy white fish), we decide to order individual sashimi items which was a good choice. The sashimi was served on a bed of ice (#1). Tuna, hamachi and, especially ama-ebi sweet shrimp were really good. (We were tempted to have the shrimp heads fried).

We also ordered “kaki-age of white shrimp* 白海老のかき揚げ*” . But the last of the white shrimp had apparently been ordered by the customer at the next table so they were out of it.  The server suggested “seafood kaki-age” instead. It was a bit greasy but quite good with small scallops and shrimp. We also had “dried hotaru ika 干しホタルイカ”or firefly squid which was served slightly grilled with a side of mayo with red pepper flakes (#2). We really liked this especially since it was a bit late for the fresh hotaru-ika season**. When we took the picture (#2), we had already eaten most of the squid. We like it so much we even ordered seconds.

* “Shiro-ebi or shira-ebi” is small transparent shrimp exclusively harvested in Toyama bay 富山湾 where hotaru-ika is also famous. 

**When we were in kanazawa 金沢 this time, hotaru-ika season had just ended and we could not have fresh ones. Instead we bought dried hotaru-ika at Oomi market 近江市場. We tried it as is with a bit of sake but it was rather fishy. This rendition was much better.

This place surpassed our expectation. We will come back but next time at the counter.

Savory Breakfast Mini Cheesecakes ミニチーズケーキ

This is another one of my wife’s baking projects. This time it was small cheesy bites called “Savory Breakfast Mini Cheesecakes” which she found on-line. She made quite a few modifications using her CCK (Common Culinary Knowledge). For example just looking at the list of ingredients for the crusts  listed in the recipe on the web she knew there was no way they would be enough to form crusts on 24 full sized muffin tins. She doubled the amount of ingredients and it was still not enough to fill all the mini muffin tin. Also the three 8 ounce packages of cream cheese (a total of 24 oz.) seemed a bit excessive so she significantly reduced the amount she used. (She wonders if sometimes the people who publish some of the recipes on the web have actually made them). The list of ingredients listed below includes all the specific alterations my wife made. Despite the numerous alterations in ingredients the cheese bites certainly turned out pretty well. They had a nice crunchy crust and cheesy center which cannot go wrong. But with the amount of eggs, cheese and butter that went in, this has to be more spectacular to be repeated.

Ingredients:
1 cup dry bread crumbs (I used Panko)
2/3 cup finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese (I used parmesan)
1/4 cup melted butter
3/4 package (8 oz.) cream cheese (or 1/2 package cream cheese plus1/4 chive and onion cream cheese)
2 large eggs
1 cup shredded cheese (gruyere, cheddar, smoked gouda)
2 pieces cooked bacon crumbled
1/4 teaspoon salt
other items could include cooked shallots, green onions, red peppers).

Directions:
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Spray 24 mini muffin tin cups with cooking spray or use paper liners.

Mix bread crumbs, parmesan cheese, and melted butter together in a small bowl. Spoon about 1 teaspoon mixture into each of the prepared muffin cups. Using your fingers press down the bread crumbs to form a crust for the cheese filling. (This procedure is the very definition of tedious). 

Beat cream cheese with an electric mixer in a large bowl until smooth. Beat in eggs one at a time until combined. Stir in the cheeses, bacon and any other additions you might be using. Scoop the cheese mixture into the bread crumb crusts. (I used the smallest ice cream scoop). 

Bake in the preheated oven until cheesecakes are firm to the touch and lightly browned, about 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool in muffin tins for 10 minutes.

These were not bad. The crust was crispy because it was essentially oven fried. The cheesy filling was smooth and very pleasant. The bacon somehow didn’t stand out as much as we would have liked. It also made a nice cheese bite to go with wine. Subsequent note: These actually got better with time. Somehow the flavors stood out more and the crust actually was a good addition. 

Izakaya in Sapporo Part 4 札幌の居酒屋パート4

5. Abuyi-ya Sou-Honten 炙りや総本店

札幌市中央区南5条西3 ANAホリディ・イン札幌すすきのB1

ANA Holiday Inn Sapporo Susukino BF1
Minami 5, Nishi 3, Chuo-ku
Sapporo

For reservation 011-530-6666*, Credit card accepted, Smoking not allowed

*When I called an “AI” answered. It appeared to work but I was not sure if I had actually made our reservation and at the correct time. So, I called again. A human answered and confirmed the AI had got it right.

After the very nosy izakaya we had been to the previous evening, this was (thankfully) an up-scale and quiet place. I learned that this was run by a large company related to or owning Sapporo Beer 札幌ビール called Hokkaido Sapporo Lion 北海道サッポロライオン. Aburiya is one of many restaurant brands they run. We also knew ahead of time that we would need to take our shoes off in this place so we made sure we had socks on  This was a very spacious, clean space with a wide and long white wood counter wrapping around the large open kitchen with comfortable chairs. “Aburu 炙る” means to “cook over fire or grill” so the “Aburi-ya” name implies they specialize in grilled items. But they had a whole gamut of Japanese dishes including sushi and sashimi (of course) with emphasis on Hokkaido products. 

The counter where we were seated happened to be in front of the sushi/sashimi station with two sushi chefs at work. Since “hirame ヒラメ flat fish” sashimi was on the menu, I asked one of the sushi chefs if they had “engawa* えんがわ” which they did.  This is a part of flat fish just beneath the dorsal fin which has a nice firm texture and one of my favorites. I tried but I have not been able to get this either in US or Japan for some time. So, we asked for assorted sashimi plus “engawa”. I forgot to take pictures when it arrived, so the picture below is after we ate most of the items. The sashimi was excellent.

*”engawa 縁側” is a part of traditional Japanese houses. It is a corridor/veranda facing or open to the outside. They are generally made out of wide boards set perpendicular to its length. The portion of flat fish fresh just underneath the dorsal fin has similar short vertical lines hence it is called “engawa”.

We had more food and sake; some fried some grilled, all were good. The bill was on the higher side as expected but worth it. The serene, spacious, and  quiet atmosphere of this place was such a contrast from last evening izakaya “Aiyo”. The shoes we took off miraculously re-apperaed at the entrance as we were leaving.

Cold Udon with Sesame Sauce 胡麻ソース和え冷製うどん

Cold noodles especially cold ramen noodles or “Hiyashi ramen 冷やしラーメン” and “Somen 素麺” are very popular summer lunches. Surprisingly I have not posted about cold somen noodles. I am sure I made them before but it could have been before we started the blog. Recently I made “cold pasta with tomatoes”トマトの冷製パスタusing thin udon noodles which we like a lot. Whenever we cook udon noodles, we make enough intentionally to have left-overs which we can use to make other dishes.  I decided to make a cold udon noodle dish. I have posted cold udon noodles with home-made ponzu and myoga  and cold udon with dipping sauce. This time, I made cold udon with sesame sauce. We happened to have simmered pork or “nibuta 煮豚” and marinated soft boiled eggs (from home-pasteurized eggs) or “ajitama 味玉”. So these became the toppings. The sesame sauce was made using roasted sesame seeds. (I re-roast store-bought “roasted” white sesame seeds) which adds a nice strong sesame flavor. I added a dab of Japanese mustard from a tube to my dish which gave the it a nice zing which I liked but my wife passed on the mustard (#1). 

Ingredients: (two small servings seen in #1)
1 servings of thin dried udon noodles, cooked as per the package instruction. Wash in cold running water after cooking (divided into two servings)

Toppings (anything you like but some protein, egg, and veggies such as cucumber. The ingredients listed below are what I used. Amounts are all arbitrary)
Simmered “nibuta 煮豚” pork, julienne
Cucumber, seeds removed,  julienned (I used American mini-cucumber)
“Gari ガリ” ginger slices in sweet vinegar, excess marinade squeezed out, julienned
Fresh “kikurage 木耳 wood ear mushroom (previously blanched, washed, and patted dry), julienned (I dressed it with home-made sweet vinegar)
Scallions, finely chopped
Ajitama 味玉, marinated soft boiled egg
Roasted white sesame seeds

Sesame sauce:
1 tbs white sesame, re-roasted in a dry pan (I used a special sesame roasting pan),
1 tbs x4 concentrated Japanese noodle sauce
1 tbs ponzu
1 tsp rice vinegar
1 tbs mirin
1 or more tbs water

Directions:
Grind the sesame seeds in a Japanese “suri-bachi 摺鉢” mortar until oil comes out but stop before it becomes paste.
Add the ponzu, noodle sauce, mirin and vinegar. Taste and add the water to adjust the strength of the seasoning
Add the noodles to the sauce and mix so that the sauce will coat the surface of the noodles evenly (#2).

Add the toppings and garnish with sesame (#1). 

The sesame flavor really worked. I did not add any additional oil. I could have added Japanese hot mustard to the sauce but since my wife is not keen on really spicy food, I only added it to my serving. This turned out to be a very nice lunch on a hot and muggy day such as what we have been having  recently. 

Sapporo Lunch places part2 札幌の昼ごはん パート2

2. Dekitate-ya JR tower Stella place  一夜干しと海鮮丼できたて屋　JRタワーステラプライス店

One day, we went to the JR tower observatory. It is located on the 38 floor of JR tower attached to the Sapporo train station. This is a really excellent observatory. When we stepped out of the elevator on the 38th floor we were advised by the attendant ticket vender that about 60 school kids were in the observatory and they could be a bit unruly so we might consider waiting until they left. When we asked how long that would be the answer was “about an hour”. We decided that was too long to wait so we would chance it. It turns out the kids were very well-behaved and not a problem in the least. Eventually, they left and the observatory was quiet. Along the windows, there were nice chairs and small tables to sit and admire the beautiful panoramic view of the city of Sapporo spread out below. The observatory had a small cafe in the middle. You could order drinks and a snack and sit at one of the tables to enjoy the view. All the views were spectacular but I particularly liked the north view which included Hokkaido University campus, my alma mater, at a glance. When we came down from the observatory on the 38th floor we arrived on the 6 floor of the Stella place, a connecting building. It was noon (lunch time) and we saw many restaurants; some of which had a long lines in front (always an indicator of how good the place is). Although we already had a lunch engagement that day, I made note of it.

A few days later we had to come to the station to make an adjustment to our train tickets. When we finished, it was a noon time. So, we went up to the 6th floor of the Stella Place. After looking around, we decided on this place called “Dekitate-ya できたて屋“. “Dekitate” means “just made or prepared”. The restaurant touted “ichiya-boshi 一夜干し*” over-night dried fish and “kaisen-din 海鮮丼” a rice bowl with fresh seafood on top. That was the deciding factor for me. The line was short but it was fairly late so we decided the size of the line, in this case, was no indicator of the quality of the restaurant. We took a number, waited for about 5 minutes and we were seated.

My wife likes uni or uni-ikura donburi うにイクラ丼 ; a specialty of Hokkaido which my mother introduced her to many years ago. She tried ordering one on this visit in Otaru 小樽 when we went to Kitaichi Glass 北一グラス,  but the restaurant we chose was one of the tourist traps and the uni-ikura donburi was a bit disappointing. So seeing ikura-donburi on the menu of this restaurant, she ordered it. (Japanese call this type of ordering “リベンジ” or “revenge” since the item was not available or disappointing last time). I chose the three grilled fish “teishoku 定食” lunch set called “Feast with 3 kinds of grilled fishご馳走3種類”.

This is a large chain restaurant. The company based in Hokkaido also runs reasonably priced sushi bar chains. There appear to be many stores of  “dekitate-ya” including some in Tokyo. They also do take out. We were very impressed by the quality of the food and service. Although we forgot to take a picture when the food arrived, it was very good and we finished everything. We did not think we could finish the rice but both of us finished even that. My wife’s uni donburi was very good. The uni was small but fresh and good tasting. My dish was spectacular; three grilled fish, the selection of which changes depending on what they have on a given day. Each piece was relatively small but still a good enough size that three of them made a feast and they tasted great. They were yellow tail jaw “hamachi kama ハマチのカマ”,  overnight-dried* “Hokke” (a type of mackerel famous in Hokkaido) 一夜干しほっけand pacific saury “sanma さんま”. The sanma さんま could have been a bit more fatty/oily but was still very good. They offered a choice of brown, white or seasoned rice. I chose the seasoned rice which had ginger and baby scallops in it and it was excellent. We noticed a rice husking machine tucked in the corner of the store near our table. So this restaurant appears to polish rice on-site. We also both got miso soup with baby clams “ko-hamaguri miso-shiru 子はまぐりの味噌汁”**. This was very tasty.  My wife also got warm broth which could be used to finish the rice in the form of “Ochazuke お茶漬け”. I borrowed some of the broth and finished up my seasoned rice. The picture shows the aftermath of my enjoyment of the excellent meal.

*”Ichiya-boshi” or over-night drying is a very common Japanese technique to enhance the flavor and texture of certain fish by reducing the moisture in the fish before grilling.

** A classic miso soup especially for breakfast is “Shijimi miso-shiru しじみの味噌汁’. Shijimi is a small brackish water Japanese clam. Miso soup made from shijimi has a very characteristic umami-packed flavor. The soup they served was a tamed/down-scale  version but somewhat lacking the strong umami flavor shijimi soup may have. I am not sure when was the last time I had a shijimi soup, probably when I was a kid but this was a close facsimile.

Looking around I saw there were counter seats for solo diners. Many solo diners must be office workers. Most of the diners sitting there appeared to be having Kaisen-don, bowl of rice with fresh sashimi on the top. This was certainly one of the best lunches we had on our Japan visit. Despite this being a large chain restaurant, the quality of the grilled fish was reminiscent of our previously favorite grilled fish lunch place in Ginza called “まる 圓”.