Philadelphia (Philly) rolls "Hosomaki" 細巻きフィラデルフィアロール

Although I have posted  Philadelphia rolls (or Philly rolls) 6 years ago, it was a medium sized (chumaki 中巻) and the nori outside (omotemaki 表巻き). I also said in that post that this could be a thin roll with the rice outside (Hosomaki 細巻き and Uramaki 裏巻き) like California rolls. So this is exactly that version. The reason I made Philly rolls is that the type of smoked salmon we got from Vital Choice which was called "wild salmon lox" was sliced a bit too thick and did not have much of a smoked flavor so it didn’t work well with our usual smoked salmon dishes such as blini, smoked salmon and ikura dish. I made sandwiches using this lox with avocado and cucumber on croissants smeared with cream cheese one side and mayo on the other which was quite good. A few days later I made these Philly rolls for an ending "shime" 〆 dish in the evening. 

I made two rolls. The first one (upper row) came out better. For this, we made fresh rice and made the sushi rice using a Japanese cedar "hinoki" 檜 vessel  called "Hangiri" 飯切りor sushi-oke 寿司桶. We brought this so many years ago when we visited Kiso 木曽 but amazingly it still smells of Hinoki wood. In any case, this Philly roll was made exactly like California rolls but instead of crab meat and avocado, I used lox, cream cheese and cucumber. I also sprinkled the outside layer with white sesame as in California rolls. In this preparation, the lox from Vital Choice tasted great.

As a small side dish I served simmered tender octopus leg 蛸の軟らか煮 (shown below).

I also served cucumber asazuke 胡瓜の浅漬け with salt broth soaked sugar snap スナップ豌豆の塩びたし.

This was a rather large shime dish for us but it was very good and both of us managed to finish it. (Such a hardship…not!)

Jalapeño cheese curd ハラペニョペッパー自家製チーズ

We had some excess 1% milk which was approaching it’s “best-by” due date so my wife used it to make a cheese (curd). This time she tried something different for the flavoring and asked me to prepare finely chopped Jalapeño pepper. The picture below shows fresh cheese curd infused with jalapeño flavor but essentially no heat (spiciness). We like it very much. The fresh pepper taste is great. She served it slightly warmed in the toaster oven which is better that cold from the refrigerator.

She made cheese curd in usual way with heated milk and sushi vinegar. The main innovation was the use of 1% instead of 4% milk, plus the addition of the jalapeño mixed right into the cheese instead of part of an oil based marinade.

Ingredients:
1/2 gallon of 1% milk (could be basically milk of any fat content)
1/3 cup vinegar (she used sushi vinegar)
(The recipe also suggests the juice from one or two lemons, or 1/2 tsp citric acid)
1 tsp salt (or more to taste)

Directions:
Slowly heat the milk to 200 degrees F stirring constantly. After it reaches temperature remove from the heat pour in the vinegar and stir gently to combine. Leave the pot undisturbed for 10-15 minutes. It should be separated into clumps of milky white curds and watery yellow colored whey. If there is still a lot of unseparated milk add another tablespoon of the vinegar. Line a strainer with cheese cloth and set it over a bowl. Using a large spoon transfer the curds to the strainer. Let the curds drain depending on how dry you would like the ricotta to be. (If it is too dry add some of the whey reserved in the draining bowl). Gather the edges of the cheese cloth and gently squeeze the curd to further drain the whey. Then using string tie the top edges together and hang the bag from the faucet to further drain. After the most of the liquid whey has been drained off put the curd in a bowl, add the jalapeño and 1 tsp. kosher salt. Stir until everything is incorporated. Put clean cheese cloth in the cheese press. Add the curd and clamp on the lid. After one day of pressing in the refrigerator, the cheese becomes rather solid (below). 

For serving, she cuts the curd into small cubes as seen in the first picture. This cheese is a little more moist than the cheese made with 4% milk. (Wether this is due to the lower fat content of the milk or the way it was drained is subject to question). The Jalapeño adds a nice fresh green pepper taste that permeates the cheese. It is not spicy but it is very refreshing. We also like the curd slightly warmed in the toaster oven. This version of cheese curd is a nice contrast to the one with yogurt curry flavor marinade which is fried. We really like both and they go really well as an appetizer with a glass of red wine. 

Braised shishito with bonito flakes シシトウのおかかまぶし

 Japanese green pepper, (Shishi-tougarashi or shishitou 獅子唐辛子) is getting popular here. Nonetheless to my surprise, I found a bag of fresh shishitou at our regular grocery store the other day and got it. Eating Shishitou in U.S. is somewhat like a form of Russian roulette  since you can occasionally come across one that is atomically hot and you can never tell in advance which one it might be. Your first clue is when your mouth “catches on fire” as you bite into the pepper. (It seems this happens more often with U.S. raised shishitou than those raise in Japan. Legend says it has something to do with the soil.) In any case, I decided to make a shishitou dish I have not made before and added two small dishes as starters for the evening.

I thought if I de-vein and de-seed the shishitou, chances of hitting a hot one should be much less. So I de-veined and de-seeded and cut shishitou in long quarter strips. I served this with dashimaki だし巻きJapanese omelet with “aonori” 青のり dried seaweed.

Ingredients: (for two small appetizer servings)
4 shishitou, de-deined and de-seeded, cut into quarter strips lengthwise.
1 tsp x4 concentrated Japanese noodle sauce (or half and half of mirin and soy sauce)
1 tsp vegetable oil
3 tsp or more dried bonito flakes.

Directions:
Saute the shishitou in vegetable oil on medium heat for a few minutes.
Turn dow the flame to low and add the noodle sauce and quickly braise.
Cut the flame and mix in the bonito flakes.

I also served two small appetizer dishes. The below is chicken tenderloin (from chicken roasted in the Weber grill) dressed in sesame dressing 鳥のささみの胡麻和え.

“Hya-yakko” 冷奴 cold cube of silken tofu topped with myoga  茗荷 and perilla 大葉 (both from our garden) and grated ginger with the concentrated Japanese noodle sauce.

These three appetizers were a perfect start of the evening. By the way, we did not get any atomically hot shishito in this batch. (Maybe this was due to the luck of the draw or maybe it is indeed worthwhile to removed the vein and seeds.)

Marbled matcha milk bread 渦巻き抹茶食パン

 My wife saw this recipe on the King Arthur’s website and as part of her project to try every type of Japanese milk bread (shoku-pan 食パン) she could find (as witnessed in the number of milk bread recipes in this blog), she decided we had to make this. Who could pass up a Japanese milk bread with swirls of matcha green tea in it? The original recipe called for a single loaf made with three equal portions placed in the baking loaf pan. My wife decided to just make 2 separate loaves. Rolling the dough to make the different colored swirls was a bit tricky, and required some teamwork. But the end result, with nice concentric swirls (below), looked better than the pictures of the original 3 part loaf. Visually stunning, we can taste the green tea (quite a good amount of matcha 抹茶 green tea powder went in). 

As usual, I ask my wife to take over.

Ingredients
Tangzhong 湯種
1 cup (227g) milk, whole preferred
1/2 cup (60g) AP flour

Dough
1/2 cup (113g) milk, whole preferred; cold*
2 1/2 teaspoons instant yeast
2 tablespoons (25g) granulated sugar
1 large egg
3 1/2 cups (420g) AP Flour
2 teaspoons salt
4 tablespoons (57g) unsalted butter, softened, plus more for greasing pan
2 tablespoons (12g) matcha powder
1 tablespoon (14g) water

*Cold milk will help cool down the tangzhong and bring the dough to a slightly warm temperature.

Directions:
To make the tangzhong: In a small saucepan, whisk together the milk and flour. Cook the mixture over medium heat, whisking constantly, until a thick paste forms and the whisk leaves lines on the bottom of the pan, about 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer to the bowl of a stand mixer.

To make the dough: Using a whisk or the whisk attachment of the mixer, add the milk, yeast, sugar, and egg into the tangzhong and whisk until fully combined.

Add the flour and salt to the mixing bowl and use the dough hook attachment to knead on low speed until a shaggy, cohesive dough forms, about 1 minute.

With the mixer still on low speed, add the butter about one tablespoon at a time, waiting to add the next piece until the previous one is fully incorporated, about 3 to 4 minutes total. Increase the speed to medium-high and continue to mix until a smooth, elastic, and tacky (but not sticky) dough forms and pulls away from the sides of the bowl, 7 to 10 minutes.

On a lightly floured surface, divide the dough in half. Knead one half briefly, form into a tight ball, place in a greased bowl, and cover.

Transfer the remaining half of the dough back to the bowl of the stand mixer and add the matcha tea and enough water to get the tea incorporated into the dough. Knead, beginning on low speed and working up to medium, until fully incorporated, about 1 to 2 minutes. (Don’t worry about any remaining small clumps of matcha; they won’t appear in the finished loaf.) Transfer the matcha dough to the lightly floured work surface, knead briefly, round into a tight ball, place in greased bowl, and cover.

Let the dough rise at a warm room temperature until doubled in volume, about 45 minutes to 1 hour.

To shape the loaf: Turn the matcha dough onto a lightly floured work surface and divide it into 2 equal portions and set aside. Repeat with the plain dough (#1). Let the dough rounds rest, covered, for 15 minutes to make the dough more pliable and easier to work with.

Use a lightly floured rolling pin to roll out one portion of plain dough into an oval. Repeat with a portion of matcha dough (#2). Stack the matcha dough on top of the regular dough, then lightly press with the rolling pin to cohere. It should measure 11” X 8”. (#3). Starting on the short end, roll up the dough into a tight cylinder (#4). Cover and set aside while you repeat the process with the remaining portions of dough. You should end up with two cylinders, each made up of two kinds of dough.

Arrange one cylinder on your work surface so that the short end is facing you, then use a rolling pin to flatten it into a 12” x 8” rectangle. The plain dough will be covering the matcha dough entirely, but you will see a flattened green and white spiral at both ends (#5). Starting with the shorter end, roll up the dough into a tight log (#6). Place the log, seam side down, into a buttered 8 1/2” x 4 1/2" loaf pan. Repeat with the remaining dough and put it seam side down in the second loaf pan (#7).

Cover the pan and set it in a warm place. Let the dough rise until it looks puffy, springs back slowly when gently pressed; about 30 to 40 minutes. Towards the end of the rising time, preheat the oven to 350°F. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, or until the crust is golden brown and the interior of the loaf registers at least 190°F when measured with a digital thermometer (#8).

Remove the loaf from the oven and turn onto a wire rack to cool for at least 30 minutes before slicing.

This is a visually beautiful and delicious tasting bread. The green tea flavor is very mild but does come through. The texture of the bread is very soft as is typical of milk bread. It is great lightly toasted and buttered for breakfast. 

Tomato ribbon salad version 2 トマトリボンサラダ V2

This is another variation of my wife’s famous ribbon salad. The red layers are tomato juice based aspic but  the cream cheese-based white layers are a bit more complex than the previous version. I helped by chopping up and slicing the ingredients. Initially, my wife was dissapointed since she expected the white layer to be more flavorful. But a few days later when we had this again, the ingredients had melded together and we could taste much more flavor.

Ingredients for Tomato aspic:
3 cups tomato juice (we used V-8)
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. sugar
2 tsp. Sushi vinegar
1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
Onion juice to taste (About 3 Tbs.
2 envelopes gelatin

Ingredients for white section
1 envelope of gelatin
1/4 cup cream
1 tub (8 oz.) or 1 block (8 oz.) Philadelphia cream cheese
1/4 cup sour cream
3 tbsp. mayonnaise
2-3 ribs celery, minced
1 med. green pepper, (jalapeño) finely chopped
2 med. onion, finely chopped
1/4-1/2 cup pimento stuffed olives, sliced
1/4-1/2 cup ripe (black) olives, sliced (we didn’t use because we didn’t have) 
(Optional) 1 ripe avocado, peeled & sliced (we did not use) 

Directions:
Soften gelatin in 1/2 cup of the tomato juice. Add mixture to the top of a double boiler. Heat until the gelatin melts. Put the rest of the tomato juice in a pan. Heat until all ingredients dissolved. Add the gelatin that has been melted in the double boiler. Chill 1/2 of the tomato aspic until set, in a 9 x 13 inch pyrex dish (below).

 

Soften the gelatin in the cream. Add mixture to the top of a double boiler. Heat until the gelatin melts. Mix cream cheese, sour cream and mayonnaise until smooth. Add the melted gelatin then the chopped celery, jalapeño, and onion. Spread cheese mixture over the congealed aspic. Add the olives on top of the cheese mixture. (Next time it would be better that the olives are finely diced.  Cut like this they made it hard to slice the ribbon salad into servings). (If using avocado lay the slices on top of the cheese mixture.) Refrigerate until firm (below).

Pour the second half of the tomato aspic gently over the avocado slices, to cover all. Cover with saran wrap and refrigerate until set.

Although this is a variation on the previous tomato ribbon salad, it is clearly in the same tradition. The red layer is much the same. The white layer is much softer. The olives are a great addition. They add a burst of saltiness. The flavors get much more pronounced after a day or two when the ingredients have had a chance to meld together. In general, this salad and its precursor are a light cool refreshing addition to a meal on a hot summer day.

New Blueberry muffin 新ブルーベリーマフィン

Although we generally like home delivery of groceries, the quality of produce can be a bit unreliable. Since it was high-season for blueberries, we ordered some and several batches arrived in good shape and were delicious. But the last time, the blueberries that arrived had a hard life. Many were smashed or extremely soft. We had to discard about 1/3 of them and even the ones we saved were bit too soft to eat as whole fresh fruit on yogurt for example. So, my wife just heated them up in a sauce pan (no water or sugar, just gently cooked) until they were the consistence of soft jam. The next morning, I pureed them using an immersion blender. The blueberry puree was pretty good. We added a teaspoon of it to our morning yogurt. Somehow the blueberry taste intensified in the puree and actually tasted richer than the whole blueberries we had been adding. My wife, then expanded the blueberry repertoire by making this new version of blueberry muffin using both whole and pureed blueberry. The blueberry puree made the muffin really good with strong blueberry flavor. The puree was added to the top of the muffin. The cut surface looks like only a few whole blueberries were added to but the distribution was somewhat uneven. Other sections of the muffins had plenty of whole blueberries. This is based on the recipe called “America’s test kitchen’s best blueberry muffins”.

Ingredients
1 cup of whole blueberries (or optional substitute toasted pecans).  

1 cup of blueberry puree.
2 ½ cups all-purpose flour
2 ½ teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup granulated sugar

2 eggs room temperature

4 tablespoons unsalted butter melted and cooled slightly
¼ cup vegetable  oil
1 cup buttermilk room temperature
1 ½ teaspoons vanilla extract 

(Optional) finely grated zest of 1 lemon. We did not use this.

Directions:
To make the blueberry puree, bring 1 cup of blueberries to a very low simmer in a small saucepan. Cook until the berries have broken down. Puree. Cool to room temperature.

Whisk the dry ingredients (flour through salt) in a large bowl. Whisk 1 cup sugar and eggs in medium bowl until thick and homogeneous. Slowly whisk in the butter and oil until combined. Whisk in buttermilk, lemon zest (if using) and vanilla until combined. Fold wet mixture and remaining berries into flour mixture until just moistened (lumpy is fine). If the batter seems loose, let it mellow for 5 minutes, and it will thicken up.

Divide among 12 greased muffin cups (batter should completely fill cups). Spoon 1 teaspoon of the blueberry puree into the center of each mound. (First picture below) Gently swirl into the batter using a toothpick and a figure-eight motion.

Bake at 425F until tops are golden and just firm, 17 to 19 minutes. (Second picture below). Cool in muffin tins for 5 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack and cool 5 minutes before serving.

These were really good muffins with a very intense blueberry flavor thanks to the addition of the puree. The texture of the muffin was very tender with a nice fine crumb and faint vanilla flavor. The delivery of the smashed batch of blueberries was a “blessing-in-disguise” now that we have learned about blueberry blueberry puree and it’s flavor advantages. 

Addendum:
My wife was impressed by how the blueberry puree added a good blueberry flavor to the muffins. We had some left over puree but no whole blueberries left. So my wife decided to substitute toasted pecans for the whole blueberries. (Toasted pecans as a substitute for whole blueberries is not a substitute I would have made or let alone even thought of ) but this really worked. The picture below shows the result. It’a almost like two muffins in one. The top is blueberry muffin and the underneath is pecan muffin. And the blueberries and pecans really work well together. The pecans add a nice crunchy textural element.

Firefly squid sautéed in butter and soy sauce ホタルイカのバター醤油炒め

Firefly squid or “hotaru-ika” ホタルイカ is very seasonal and, in the past,  the only way we could enjoy it was to visit Japan especially Kanazawa 金沢 in the spring. On exceptional occasions far and few between we had firefly squid at Tako Grill. A few years ago, however, we learned that we could get boiled firefly squid from “Regalis food” in spring. This year, I ordered two trays  which was a bit too much for us to consume all at once so, I froze a few small batches in vacuum packs partially as an experiment to see if it would work. Turns out it worked. We defrosted a batch in August and prepared a few dishes. This one (below) was particularly  good. The firefly squid is sautéed  in butter with deveined and deseeded Jalapeño pepper, shallot, seasoned with soy sauce (Actually I used x4 concentrated Japanese noodle sauce). I topped it with bonito flakes. This was inspired by one of the Japanese recipes I saw on line but I improvised based on the ingredients we had or did not have on hand. 

Ingredients: (For 2 small servings)
Boiled firefly squid, about 30
1/2 Jalapeño pepper, deseeded and deveind and cut into thin juliennes
1/2 shallot, sliced into thin strips
1/2 tbs unsalted butter
2 tsp soy sauce (or x4 “Mentsuyu” 麺つゆ Japanese noodle sauce)
bonito flakes for topping

Directions:
Melt butter in a frying pan on medium flame
Add the jalapeño and shallot and sauté for a few minutes
Add the firefly squid and sauté a few more minutes
Add soy sauce (or x4 noodle sauce)
Serve immediately with a topping of the dried bonito flakes

The combination of butter and soy sauce flavor cannot go wrong. You can really taste the unctuous  flavor of the firefly squid. This is a good and simple firefly squid dish. Interestingly, the jalapeño added a mild but definitive slow heat towards the end.

Seawater Uni, uni shuto and fresh myoga 海水ウニ、ウニ酒盗、茗荷

Although there is nothing new here, it is not common to have a new crop of myoga 茗荷 harvested from our own garden (just started), fresh salt water (seawater) uni “Kaisui-uni” 海水ウニ and uni-shuto うに酒盗 from Maruhide 丸秀, all available in the same time. Myoga is best enjoyed fresh and the season is rather short and requires some effort to harvest. So, I served a small dish of myoga with cucumber, and wakame as well as two small dishes of each kind of uni. For the occasion, I pulled out the small lidded containers we purchased in Nihiki market, Kyoto 京都錦市場 some years ago.

These covered small dishes make a nice presentation since lifting the lid reveals the contents as a pleasant  surprise. (On this occasion, however, my wife knew exactly what the dishes contained). From left to right are original uni shuto, salt water uni and the myoga dish.

Fresh uni from Maruhide is frequently out of stock. Recently however, fresh uni in seawater (i.e. uni in salt water with a salt concentration equivalent to seawater; about 3.5 percent) became available which was fine with us so we ordered it. We already had original uni shuto frozen in the freezer so we decided to have an “uni tasting festival” of both the seawater uni and the original uni shuto. As I mentioned before, most of the fresh uni is treated with “alum’ which makes it a bit firmer. The salt water uni is not treated or processed at all; just placed in seawater equivalent. As a result, it is a bit softer but has a pure uni taste. Dipped in wasabi and sashimi shouyu it is sublime uni enjoyment.

The picture below shows the original uni shuto(u). Maruhide is the only place this is made. Compared to other preserved uni (classic are “ Neri-uni” 練りウニ, “Tsubu-uni” 粒ウニ and less commonly “steamed-uni” 蒸しウニ). The former two are readily available in Japan and come in small jars. They are salted and some alcohol is added and processed (the details are not clear). Neri-uni is homgenized and paste-like and Tsubu-uni retains its original shape. Maruhide Uni shutou is closer to tsubu-uni but it includes some additional proprietary process. In any case, it comes frozen in a jar and tastes much better than any other preserved uni we have tried. This should just be enjoyed without any additional seasonings .

Finally, we enjoy the very unique and distinct flavors of fresh myoga. We just harvested this in the morning. I combined the myoga with cucumber and wakame (salt-preserved one) dressed in sumiso 酢味噌.

Nothing comes close to fresh, especially saltwater, uni. But Maruhide uni shuto comes in a close second. Each has it’s own rich distinctive taste that goes extremely well with a sip of cold sake. Also, because of the rich taste intensity a little goes a long way. The myogo is such seasonal late summer taste harbinger of fall. Its distinctive fresh somewhat sharp taste complemented the the rich uni beautifully. 

Instant Pot Egg Bites version 2 インスタントポットエッグバイツ

This is the second version of Instant Pot Egg Bites. The last one which was supposedly a recreation of  Starbucks’ egg bites was good but tasted a bit too cheesy rather than eggy when it got cold. So this time we changed the ratio of egg and cheeses so that it would taste more eggy. This is based on a recipe but, as usual, we winged it a bit. We added finely chopped prosciutto, shallot, and jalapeño pepper. This turned out to be quite good. It was smooth with distinct shallot and jalapeño flavors. The prosciutto added slight saltiness which also worked well. While both versions were very good. We probably liked this version better than the first version.

Ingredients (Recipe x1, 7 egg bites)
3 large eggs
1/4 cup cottage cheese
1/4 cup soft cheese, like cream cheese, Brie, Boursin, or Laughing Cow (we used cream cheese)
1/2 cup chopped mix-ins, like cooked meats and/or raw or cooked vegetables (we used jalapeños, shallots and prosciutto)
1/2 cup shredded cheese, such as cheddar, Monterey jack, or mozzarella (We used cheddar and Monterey Jack)

Ingredients (recipe x2, 14 egg bites)
6 large eggs
1/2 cup cottage cheese
1/2 cup soft cheese, like cream cheese, Brie, Boursin, or Laughing Cow (we used cream cheese)
1 cup chopped mix-ins, like cooked meats and/or raw or cooked vegetables (we used jalapeños, shallots and prosciutto)
1 cup shredded cheese, such as cheddar, Monterey jack, or mozzarella (We used cheddar and Monterey Jack)

Directions:
Combine the eggs, cottage cheese, soft cheese and other cheeses in a blender. Blend at medium speed for about 30 seconds, until smooth. Pour into molds 3/4 full. Evenly distribute the chopped veggies into the molds. Stir to further incorporate.

Pour 1 cup of water into the Instant Pot or electric pressure cooker. Cover the egg molds and put into the wire steam rack. Grasping the handles of the steam rack, lower the egg molds into the pot.

Cook the eggs on “steam”: Secure the lid on the pressure cooker. Make sure that the pressure regulator is set to the “Sealing” position. Select “steam” then adjust the time to 8 minutes (for single batch and if making a double batch, increase the cooking time to 10 minutes.)

The pressure cooker will take about 10 minutes to come up to full pressure. Cook time begins once it has reached full pressure.

When the timer goes off, let the pressure release naturally for 10 minutes, then perform a quick pressure release by moving the pressure release knob from “Sealing” to “Venting.” It will take a minute or two for the pressure to release completely. Remove the egg bites from the pressure cooker.

These were very good egg bites. They tasted more eggy than cheesy but the cheese flavor came through nicely enough. The shallots and jalapeño gave a nice spiciness while the prosciutto added some saltiness. The texture was very smooth almost like a very firm custard. These would be lovely as an egg substitute for breakfast or brunch as well as an appetizer with a glass of wine.

Pigs in a blanket (PIB) ピッグインブランケット

When we got steaks from Omaha Steaks, we also got assorted packages of several different raw and cooked meat products as part of the promotion. One was hamburger  meat which prompted us to bake hamburger buns and make cheeseburgers. One of the additional packages was hotdogs. I am not sure when was the last time we ate hotdogs but since we had them in the freezer my wife proposed making “pigs in a blanket (PIB)”. The origin of this dish is not clear but hotdogs wrapped in “Pillsbury’s mini-crescent rolls”  appears to be the most common rendition in the U.S. (This was the stand-by dish my wife ate as a child.) My wife proposed we “kick-it-up-a-notch” and use frozen puff pastry instead of the Pillsbury mini-crescent. (Besides we didn’t have any mini-crescents but we did have frozen puff pastry which was getting old in the freezer). In keeping with the classic version of PIB she added cheese. (Just exactly like they were made when she was a child). Unlike the cheeseburgers we made some time ago, in which my wife insisted as a hamburger “purist” no ketchup or mustard should be involved, she insisted the case of hotdogs was completely different; ketchup and mustard, preferably mixed together were absolutely required. The PIB were good but the cheese ran out and made little puddles of crispy cheese on the bottom of the pan. I thought these were pretty good with the “required” amount of ketchup and mustard (As shown in the picture below, I did not mix the two together although my wife did). (We used Dijon mustard).

Ingredients (made 8 small P-in-Bs):
4 Hotdogs, thawed and cut into half
1 frozen puff pastry, thawed and cut into 8 long strips
Monterey jack and cheddar cheese (enough to stuff the hotdogs)

Directions:
Cut the hotdogs in half making 8 short pieces
Slit the hotdogs but not cut trough (may be better to make a pocket rather than cutting through to both ends)
Stuff the slits with the cheese (either cheddar or Monterey Jack)
Wrap it in the strips of puff pastry (see below)
Bake at 400F for 25 minutes (we used our toaster oven in convection mode).

In retrospect, to prevent the melting cheese from running out, it would be better to make a pocket in the hotdogs instead of cutting through to the ends. Another option would be to place the shredded cheese on the strip of puff pastry, wrap the cheese up by merging the both ends of the long edges of the pastry and then flatten it to the original width before wrapping the hotdogs. Nonetheless this was a nostalgic trip for my wife. These brought back some of the joy of one of her favorite childhood dishes. She did observe, however, that these hotdogs did not seem as flavorful as the ones she remembers. She mused that the brand used back then was probably Oscar-Mayer. I do not have any opinion since I am not sure I have ever tasted an O-M hotdog. To head off the possibility of a trip to the grocery store to retrieve a package of O-M’s I reminded my wife that the “taste difference” may be due to the difference between the taste buds of a child versus an adult. Nonetheless, she said the adult taste buds really liked this batch. While it was not part of my childhood I quite liked it too.

How to defrost a frozen tuna block 冷凍鮪柵の解凍方法

 This is a continuation of the frozen bluefin tuna block from Great-Alaska-Seafood saga. This is mostly to document for myself how best to thaw a frozen sashimi tuna block (since we have a number to which this process will need to be applied). In any case, we tried “Chu-toro” 中トロ this time. This was a relatively small  block and was perfect for the two of us. I served two slices as is (left) and made one slice into “Aburi” 炙り (right) (which was possible due to the recent acquisition of a new small kitchen torch. More about that later). This is better than the “akami” we tasted before (due to the thawing method or the fact this is chu-toro is unclear but probably both).

I made the remaining tuna into our usual “pseudo” negitoro  擬制ネギトロ. served with slices of cucumber and small sheets of nori (this is “Korean nori” 韓国のり. Since there was a bit too much tuna to  make all into “Negitoro”,  I also served one slice of tuna as well.

 

Now onto the main topic. I knew there were special instruction on how best to thaw a frozen tuna block which I may have seen on several YouTube videos. Most of the time, however, I am too lazy and just take it out from the vacuum pack, wash it in cold running water, blot it with paper towel, place it on the folded paper towel, wrap it with a plastic wrapping and thaw it in the refrigerator. This time, I looked at several instructions and decided to record the best method as far as I could tell.

How to thaw a frozen tuna block:
1. Remove the tuna block from the vacuum pack.
2. Quickly wash the surface using cold running water to remove any “saw dust”.
3. Soak it in 40C, 4% salted warm water for 3-5 minutes or until the surface becomes soft.
4. Quickly wash and blot the surface with a paper towel.
5 Wrap it completely with a sheet of paper towel.
6 Place it in the ziploc bag and remove the air, seal or Using a “Food saver” type vacuum bag and device, vacuum pack (see below).

7. Submerge the vacuum packed tuna in ice water for 1 hour or until thawed (below).

Digression alert: Every set of instructions I came across also provided some “scientific” explanation of each step. I am not sure of the validity of those explanations but the following is my understanding of the science behind each step. The warm salt water process may activate myoglobin oxidation which, especially in “akami”, makes a better red color without extracting or infusing liquid (over exposure to oxygen may make the tuna darker or “black”). Because of the much better heat conduction of water (20 times greater than air), the tuna will quickly thaw without increasing the temperature in the ice water than in the refrigerator. This process allows the tuna block to go through a -5 to -1C temperature zone which is conducive to the formation of ice crystals in the meat more quickly than if it is left to “thaw” in the refridgerator. A shorter time spent in that temperature zone supposedly improves the quality of the tuna meat because the formation of ice crystals can break the cells or form holes making the meat mushy.

As a side note, I got a new small kitchen torch since the old one failed to ignite last time. Instead of a larger torch which would use a standard size butane canister, I chose one that requires charging the butene gas like a cigarette lighter like the one I had before. Also, I had some leftover butane canisters from the previous torch I had. My reasoning was that we had a difficult time to use up and discard the standard butene canisters that we used with our old table-top gas cooker, basically because we seldom used the cooker. In any case, this one is compatible with Zippo butene canister which comes in a much smaller size.

This torch works well. It ignites easily and the flame size can be easily adjusted. I made “aburi” 炙り quite quickly with a nice char. I salted the surface before torching.

Bacon cheese egg bites ベーコン、チーズ エッグバイツ

 We like small bite-size items, either savory or sweet. We are not sure how we came to order these silicon moulds for the Instant Pot. Maybe we got an email ad or my wife read the recipe somewhere. We ordered the silicon moulds from Amazon and we made these small bacon cheese egg bites. When we tasted them just coming out of the mould, it was like egg custard but after it cooled down a more cheesy flavor came through. Overall it is very good but slightly too salty for us.

Later we learned this is a variation of Starbucks’ Bacon & gruyere egg bites. We have never had this at Starbuck. Since we did not have gruyere cheese, we substituted Monterey Jack and Irish cheddar cheese. We used the recipe that came with the moulds. My wife made the batter and poured it into the moulds and I cooked them in the Instant Pot.

Ingredients (make 14 bites using the silicon moulds):
3 large eggs
4 bacon strips
1/2 cup shredded Monterey Jack cheese
1/2 cup shredded Gruyere cheese (we substituted Irish Cheddar).
1 cup cream cheese or cottage cheese (we used cottage cheese)
3 tbs cream
1 tsp unsalted butter, melted
1/4 tsp Kosher salt
1/2 tsp rice starch (flour)*

*we think the use of rice flour (starch) is to claim this is gluten free.

Directions:
Cook the bacon and break into smaller pieces. Place the bacon pieces in the bottom of each mould (#1)
Add the remaining ingredients to a blender and blend for 20 seconds
Fill the silicon mould to 75% full (#2)
Attached the lids to the silicon moulds.
Place 1 cup of water to the Instant Pot and lower the two silicon moulds with trivet
Place the lid on the Instant Pot with the pressure knob to seal. Using “Steam” function, set time to 7 minutes.
Let it depressurize (7-10 minutes) and open (#3).
Loosen the egg bites using small spatula and invert onto the plate to unmold (#4).

As I mentioned, when we tasted these while still warm, it tasted eggy/custardy but once it cooled it tasted more cheesy. The texture was smooth and velvety like a rich thick custard. It was a little bit too salty for us. (The cheese and bacon are very salty so probably we can omit the additional 1/4 tsp salt). I can see why these are popular. It is hard to eat just one. 

Fatty tuna sashimi from Catalina 大トロの刺身

Some time ago, I got a small block (5 oz.) of frozen fatty tuna from Catalina Offshore Products. I was not sure if this was chu-toro 中トロ or Oo-toro 大トロ but upon thawing, this turned out to be very fatty Oo-toro. I tasted a small slice and it was very rich. You cannot eat too much of this but the portion we had was just right amount for two of us. Sometimes, oo-toro has layers of sinue between the fatty meat. Visually this piece appeared to have some. So I made shallow cuts across the sinue to make it easier to eat. But it turned out the sinue was not any botheration. In any case, I served this oo-toro three ways.

The first two slices were served as is (left and below). As mentioned, I just made several shallow cuts across the sinue.

The second piece I tried to make as "Aburi" 炙り but when I tried to fire up the small kitchen torch I use for this purpose, it did not ignite. So, I used a hot frying pan instead which did not add any char marks or char flavor. I seasoned it with Kosher salt before searing and then squeezed on some lemon juice.

 

The last one is cubes of the tuna dressed in mayonnaise, yuzu-kosho 柚子胡椒, x4 Japanese noodle sauce and chopped perilla. Yuzu-kosho flavor cut through the fat.

This was just the right amount of fatty tuna for one luxurious sitting. Perfect for cold sake.

Bangladeshi White Chicken Korma チキンコルマ

This is another of my wife's curry projects. (She has been making curries about once a week. We really like having them for lunch.) This recipe is based on a recipe in the cookbook  “Curry Easy” by Madhur Jaffrey which my wife got recently. This is a yogurt based white curry. 

 We added blanched green beans and skinned Campari tomato. I also garnished it with Japanese pickles called “Funkushin or Fukujin-zuke” 福神漬け to add some colors.

Ingredients:
1 tsp. Cinnamon
1 1/2 tsp. Cardamon
1/4 tsp cayenne
4 bay leaves
3 onions roughly chopped
4 chicken thighs
3 Tbs. Grated ginger
6 garlic cloves peeled and lightly crushed
1 cup greek yogurt
1 tbs. Vinegar
1 1/4 tsp salt

Directions:
Put several Tbs. Peanut oil in a frying pan and bloom the spices cinnamon through bay leaves in the hot oil. Add the onions and sauté until they are translucent. Add the garlic and ginger and fry until fragrant. Add the yogurt, vinegar and salt. Stir to make a creamy sauce. Put in the chicken and cover with the sauce. If more liquid is necessary add some chicken broth. Cook on simmer for about 1 hour or until the chicken is completely cooked.

This is a nice curry. It seems that the recipes in this cookbook are a bit simpler than the recipes in the other Madhur Jaffrey cookbooks we have. This one was very nice and a bit different from the usual that we have made which was good for a change. The sauce is creamy and the spices are flavorful and fairly gentle but slow heat will creep up on you. rice and Japanese Fukujinzuke pickles, this is a good curry.

Watari bune Daiginjo 渡船純米大吟醸

This sake “Watari bune, junmai daiginjo” 渡船純米大吟醸 was a gift from a friend for a recent occasion. This is a really great sake with a slightly effervescent feel and fruity, crisp but very complex flavors. This should definitely be drunk cold. This sake is brewed by “Fuchu-homare” 府中誉 which is located in Ibaragi prefecture 茨城県. The sake rice or “sakamai”  酒米 used for this sake is also called “Watari bune” which is supposedly a very rare near-extinct sake rice which relatively recently has been revived. The famous and most popular sake rice “Yamada nishiki” 山田錦 is reportedly a descendant of this rice. Also the name “Watari bune”  渡船, which means a  “ferry” or “ferryboat”, is very fitting for sake from Ibaragi which is known for Tone river 利根川 and its estuaries criss crossing the flat delta before pouring into the Pacific ocean.This area also contains large lakes. (Such areas rich in water ways and lakes are called “Suigou”  水郷). Such topography would require use of ferries i.e. “Watari bune” to navigate the water ways.

In any case, a great sake calls for great “Tsumami” ツマミ or small sake snacks. We were lucky to get fresh unprocessed fresh “uni” sea urchin in salted water from Maruhide 丸秀 called “Ensui uni” 塩水ウニ. We also recently got frozen blocks of Bluefin tuna from Great-Alaska-Seafood. We served these items on recently acquired Japanese plates. The soy sauce in the small round plate is also a special “sashimi” soy sauce.   

I made the tuna three ways (two shown directly below. One came later). The first was straight sashimi (upper left in picture). The second was “Negi-toro” ネギトロ with slices of cucumber (lower left in picture). We enjoyed this negi-toro as a kind-of hand roll on a small sheet of nori (not shown) with the cucumber slices (shown).

This uni from Maruhide (shown upper right in the picture) is not processed with the usual “alum” and only soaked in salt water with salinity consistent with seawater. As far as I can tell, Maruhide is only source in the U.S. where we can get this. As an aside: my wife can sometimes taste the alum on uni. She immediately passes her portion to me when this happens. Not exactly a hardship for me, since I can’t taste alum. (She can also detect the alum used in some brands of baking powder).  The consistency of the uni in salt water is slightly softer than alum processed ones but it is absolute pure fresh uni. With just a little bit of wasabi and soy sauce and a sip of the sake, you cannot get anything better.

We needed a few more “Tsumami” to go with this sake. We had more tuna, this time “zuke” tuna 漬けマグロ, in which tuna slices are marinated in x4 concentrated Japanese noodle sauce for few hours so.  I served it with wakame and cucumber dressed in sumiso sauce 胡瓜とわかめの酢味噌あえ (left). Since my wife made blini a few days ago and we had Keta salmon ikura roe thawed, we made our usual “blini topped with cream cheese, smoked salmon and ikura” (right).

All these items are again perfect accompaniment for this wonderful sake.