Super-soft Milk Bread 日本風食パン

Many years ago, when we visited Tokyo 東京, we stayed at hotels in the Asakusa area 浅草. (More recently, we've been staying at hotels in the Ginza/Tokyo station area). One of the fond memories we have of our stay at the Asakusa hotels was going to a coffee house or "Kissa-ten" 喫茶店 for breakfast and coffee. At that time, they usually offered, at a very reasonable price, choices of "morning sets" モーニングセットdesignated as  "A", "B" or "C". They consisted of some kind of egg (hard boiled or egg salad) and slightly different sides such as a mini green salad or cucumber. The foundation of the meal, and, as far as we are concerned, the best part, was a very thick slice of soft bread lightly toasted and served with butter or sometimes jam or jelly. The second cup of coffee was usually available at a steep discount which was another reason we liked breakfast at the Kissa-ten. Recently my wife came across a recipe for "Super-soft Milk Bread". In addition to being reminiscent of our favorite Kissa-ten bread, the accompanying write-up referred to it as a variation of "Hokkaido milk bread". Since I am originally from Hokkaido 北海道, that "sealed the deal". I had to make this. This is a very different recipe from our usual white bread loaf. It came out super soft, light and fluffy. It really reminded us of "Kissa-ten" toast. I sliced a very thick piece (but not as thick as some we had at kissa-ten) toasted it and slathered on the butter. Voila!

Some Japanese recipes for this type of bread include "Yu-dane" 湯種 or "Yu-kone or Yu-gone" 湯捏ね in which  a portion of flour is mixed and kneaded with hot water. Instead, this recipe pre-cooked the flour and milk into a soft paste called "tangzhong" which is the Chinese pronunciation of "Yu-dane"  湯種.  I read that this was popularized by a Chinese cookbook author Yvonne Chen as "tangzhong" which is the term that commonly appears in English-written recipes for this type of bread. This recipe came from the King Arthur website.

Ingredients
Tangzhong
3 tablespoons (43g) water
3 tablespoons (43g) whole milk
2 tablespoons (14g) King Arthur Unbleached Bread Flour


Dough
2 1/2 cups (298g) King Arthur Unbleached Bread Flour
2 tablespoons (14g) Baker's Special Dry Milk or nonfat dry milk
1/4 cup (50g) sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon instant yeast (This looked like too much for one loaf of bread, next time I may reduced it in half)
1/2 cup (113g) whole milk
1 large egg
4 tablespoons (57g) unsalted butter, melted

I weighed all ingredients except for the yeast and egg.

Directions

To make the tangzhong: Combine all of the ingredients in a small saucepan, and whisk until no lumps remain.

Place the saucepan over low heat and cook the mixture, whisking constantly, until it becomes thick and the whisk leaves lines on the bottom of the pan, about 3 to 5 minutes (#1 below).

Transfer the tangzhong to a small mixing bowl or measuring cup and let it cool to lukewarm.
To make the dough
Combine the tangzhong with the remaining dough ingredients, then mix and knead — by mixer or bread machine — until a smooth, elastic dough forms; this could take almost 15 minutes in a stand mixer (I used a standing mixer with a dough hook and kneaded it for 7-10 minutes).

Shape the dough into a ball, and let it rest in a lightly greased bowl, covered, for 60 to 90 minutes, until puffy but not necessarily doubled in bulk.

Gently deflate the dough and divide it into four equal pieces; if you have a scale each piece will weigh between 170g and 175g (I divided the dough in half-- I should have weighed the halves; the loaf came out uneven).

Flatten each piece of dough into a 5" x 8" rectangle, then fold the short ends in towards one another like a letter. Flatten the folded pieces into rectangles again (this time about 3" x 6") and, starting with a short end, roll them each into a 4" log. (After flattening, folding, I rolled it into two logs).

Place the logs in a row of four (in my case, two) — seam side down and side by side — in a lightly greased 9" x 5" loaf pan.

Cover the loaf and allow it to rest/rise for 40 to 50 minutes, until puffy (#2 below).

Toward the end of the rising time, preheat the oven to 350°F.

To bake the bread: Brush the loaf with milk and bake it for 30 to 35 minutes, until it's golden brown on top and a digital thermometer inserted into the center reads at least 190°F (#3 below).
Remove the loaf from the oven and cool it in the pan until you can transfer it safely to a rack to cool completely (#4).

The dough rose rather quickly (this is the reason I think I will reduce the yeast next time). After the bread completely cooled, I sliced it (#4).We have been making white bread loafs for some time using an old recipe which came with our stand mixer. Our white bread loaf is good but this one is different and may be better. It is extremely light and very close to the Japanese loaf bread we had at the Kissa-ten. We were "transported" back to Tokyo with the first bite. It had a mildly sweet flavor and the crust was nice and crunchy. We will definitely make this again for sure.

Addendum:

I doubled the amount and made two loaves. I also, decreased the yeast by half (proportionally). I also weighed the 4 portions (2 for one loaf) and they came out in equal sizes (see pictures below). This is just a note to myself so that I do not have to calculate  the ingredients' weight again.

Ingredients:

Tangzhong
86 g water
86 g whole milk
28 g King Arthur Unbleached Bread Flour

Dough
596 g King Arthur Unbleached Bread Flour
28 g  nonfat dry milk 
100 g sugar
2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon instant yeast
226 g whole milk
2 large egg
114 g (one stick) unsalted butter, melted

Despite halving the yeast, the dough rose and the bread came out soft and fluffy. It may have taken a little bit more time to rise but the flavor of the bread, we thought, was better.

Red wine miso sauce with tuna cutlet 赤ワイン味噌ソースとマグロカツ

I thawed a block "saku" of low-grade yellowfin tuna sashimi. As usual, I tried to make some variation dishes. First I made "zuke" marinated tuna cubes with avocado very similar to one I posted. The second dish was imitation "negitoro " ネギトロ. These two dishes are very good with cold house sake "Tengu-mai"  天狗舞大吟醸.  The third dish I made was tuna cutlet マグロカツ.  I gave a twist to this dish by making a red wine miso sauce and serving it with our relatively new house red wine DAOU Vineyards “Pessimist” Red Blend 2018. I saw the sauce recipe in a digital version of the Japanese newspaper “Asahi “ 朝日新聞. The recipe was written by a sommelier. It is a reduced red wine with miso and he claimed that, with this sauce, the food will go well with red wine. He also suggested fried food would be the best with this sauce. I served tuna cutlet with this sauce accompanied with cucumber and cabbage “asazuke” 浅漬け as well as the cauliflower I usually make and skinned Campari tomato.

The reason I made this sauce was because one of the bottles of red wine we opened recently had a bit  of a musty taste/oder and we decided not to drink it. It was not corked but somehow the handling was not right since other bottles of the same wine were ok. Also we have had this wine so many time in the past with no problems.  In any case, I used a portion of this wine to make a chicken liver dish, a stew of leftover barbecued chicken, and this red wine miso sauce to finish the bottle. Once cooked, the wine lost its mustiness.

Ingredients
Red wine 200 ml
Red miso 2 tbs (I did not have red miso 赤味噌 and used “awase” miso 合わせ味噌)
Mirin 2 tsp
Rice vinegar 2 tsp
light colored soy sauce 2 tsp
Honey 2 tsp or more to taste

Directions
Reduce the red wine in half, dissolve the miso and add other ingredients and adjust sweetness to your liking by adding more honey.

I added more honey than indicated. I had to strain the sauce since it developed some sediments (due to vinegar?). I served it on the fried tuna and the fried taste completely dominated. We actually couldn’t taste the sauce at all. My wife, who never skimps when it comes to the application of sauces actually took to soaking her pieces of tuna in the sauce and said she still couldn’t taste it. Finally, in desperation she slurped it with a spoon and conceded it tasted very nice. I would have expected to at least taste the miso flavor but it was completely muted. I am not sure this may have been because I did not use red miso. In any case, this sauce did not have much flavor but we enjoyed the tuna cutlets with red wine. Since more sauce is left, I may add more miso to see if that will improve the flavor.

No Knead rye bread with "Karikari"-salted plum カリカリ青梅入り捏ねないライ麦パン

 As I promised in the previous post on no-knead olive rye bread, I made no-knead rye bread with "karikari-koume" カリカリ小梅 or salted small green plums. Initially I thought this bread was a failure, primarily because after 18 hours of rising not all the flour was incorporated into the dough as it should have been. It did not rise much and even after baking it was still a fairly flat loaf. In addition, as I was getting ready to incorporate the green plums into the dough my wife came along and snarfed a plum to taste. (This was the first time she tried one). She made the face reserved for eating raw lemons and blurted, 'how can you ever eat these things?' For her, it was not only salty but also very sour. For me it was salty but not that sour.

Initially, I had prepared 200 grams of the salted plums to add to the dough. After her tasting, and at her suggestion, I reduced the amount to about 150 grams and chopped them into smaller pieces  It turned out this was the right thing to do.

On the cut surface the plums look like green olives.

Ingredients
300 grams bread flour
100 grams rye flour
2 grams instant yeast
150 grams Karikari-koume salted plum, stone removed and roughly chopped (It is easiest to crush the plum with the flat of the knife and then split the plum open to remove the stone. I chopped a bit more finely than for the olives)
300 grams cold water

Directions
Exactly same as the other no-knead breads. Mix everything, cover and let it rise for 12-18 hours. Form the ball on a well-floured board by pulling the edges to the center. Dust with more flour and cover with a floured dish towel (I also placed an inverted large bowl over it). Let it rise for 1-2 hours. Preheat the oven to 450F with cast iron Dutch oven inside for, at least, 30 minutes before baking. Place the dough in the hot cast iron dutch oven, put the lid on and bake for 30 minutes. Remove the lid and bake an additional 10-15 minutes. Take it out and let it completely cool on a cooling rack.

All I can say after this experience is that yeast bread is very "forgiving". Turned out this "failure" bread was not bad at all. The taste was unique and very interesting (in a good way). The addition of the plums was just fine. The bread toned down the sourness and they provided a nice burst of saltiness reminiscent of olives but with the distinctive plummy flavor so characteristic of Japanese dishes. This combination of rustic rye bread and salty plum is similar to a rice ball with "karikari koume". The texture was very moist and the crust nice and crunchy. My wife fully endorsed the final product and said I should make it again.

Baguette in the porcelain baker 3rd try バゲットベイカー３度め

This is the 3rd try making baguette using an Emile Henry baguette baker. It came out better than previous attempts but despite generous oiling and dusting with flour the bread maker, the bread still stuck to the bottom portion of the baking dish.

I generously oiled and then dusted with flour as shown below.  

Then, I placed the dough in the baker and let it rise.

I slashed the loves with a lame and sprayed water on the surface.

The loaves came out looking good. But the bottom of all of them especially the center one, stuck to the baker,

I removed them but some crust was lost stuck to the baker.

I was frustrated and start looking for comments about this baker. Sure enough lots of people complained about the stickiness. Some people were totally irate. Some said after the 4th try it stopped sticking. So, I should try at least one more time. Despite the sticking, the baguettes had a nice texture and flavor.

No knead olive rye bread 捏ねないオリーブライ麦パン

This is a continuation of my saga on no-knead breads. The last time, I made olive bread following the original recipe, I felt that the amount of water was too much even though it turned out to be a wonderful bread. The dough was too wet to handle easily. We also thought that the combination of salty olives with no-knead rye bread would taste even better. So this is the version I baked. It came out looking nice and rustic.

After it completely cooled down, we cut into it. This time I used half and half of Divina Kalamata and green olives.

Ingredients
300 grams Bread flour 

100 grams Rye flour
2 grams instant yeast
200 grams black and green olives (Salt brine) or all one kind, roughly chopped,
300 grams cold (52-65F) water

*changes I made from the original olive bread recipe were replacing 100 grams of flour with rye flour and reducing the water to 300grams from 350 grams.

Directions
The directions are same as for the other no knead bread.

Mix everything in a bowl with a wooden spoon.
Cover with a plastic wrap and let it rise for 12-18 hours.
Remove the dough from the bowl to a well floured board. 

Bring the outer edges into the center to make a round shape. 
Transfer it to a well floured dish towel, dust the surface with more flour and fold the towel to cover. Let it rise for 1-2 hours.
Preheat the oven with the cast iron pot inside to 450F for at least 30 minutes prior to baking.

Place the dough in the heated pot, put on the lid and bake for 30 minutes.
Remove the lid and bake an additional 5-10 minutes.
Take out the bread and let it completely cool on a cooling rack.

The dough was plenty wet and sticky despite the 50gram reduction in water from the original olive bread recipe. The texture of the bread was similar and I think this is enough hydration. Again, the burst of flavor from the salt brine olives and the addition of rye really made this bread. We think, for us, this is a better olive bread. Next plan is to make a similar bread using the "karikari koume" カリカリ小梅 I made instead of olives.

Watermelon ribbon salad with wasabi スイカのワサビ入りリボンサラダ

Because of Covid-19, we are having groceries delivered. This creates some problems because we can't inspect the items before we receive them as we would if we were picking them out at the store. In addition, because of substitutions, what we actually receive can sometimes be unexpected such as getting cilantro as a substitution for celery, which occurred in a recent delivery. One such case occurred this week. We ordered a small seedless baby watermelon but instead we got two quarters (actually 1/2) of a full sized melon. This was much much more watermelon than we were expecting. So, besides eating the watermelon as is, my wife made watermelon soup スイカの冷製スープ, pickled watermelon rind, スイカの皮のピクルス and watermelon ribbon salad スイカのリボンサラダ.　Although the recipe for the watermelon ribbon salad shown here is basically the same as the one we posted before, my wife changed the amounts to make a smaller portion (using a 5x7 inch casserole dish instead of the usual 6x10) and wanted to record the recipe. The white layer is made of cottage cheese with a good amount of wasabi added which really makes the dish giving it a nice "zing". We served it as a first appetizer of the evening on a crane plate we got in Kyoto sometime ago.

These are the layers of the ribbon salad. Looks like nice pink and white ribbon.

Ingredients:
1/2 cup buttermilk
1/8 cup milk or cream
3/4 + 1/8 cup cottage cheese mashed
1/8 cup mayonnaise
1/8 tsp salt
1 lime or lemon squeezed
2 tsp. wasabi (or to taste)

Directions:
Puree the watermelon. Add the buttermilk and lime. Take 1/4 cup of the puree and use it to bloom the gelatin. Heat the bloomed gelatin in the microwave for 30 seconds. Add the gelatin to the rest of the puree. Pour 3/4 cup of the puree mixture into the bottom of the 5x7casserole dish and let it jell in the refrigerator until solid. (Keep the remaining puree at room temperature and it will stay liquid.)

Mash the cottage cheese using an immersion blender. Add the mayo and salt. Take some of the cottage cheese mixture, add it to a small bowl and use it to soften the wasabi. The amount of wasabi is basically to taste. I found that the cottage cheese tends to calm it down so I end up putting in a fairly large amount. Once it has been homogenized into the amount in the small bowl add it to the large bowl and stir until it is incorporated. Bloom the gelatin in the lime juice. Heat in the microwave for 30 seconds until melted. Add to the bowl of cottage cheese. Pour the cottage cheese over the watermelon layer and cool until solid.  Add the remaining 3/4 cup watermelon puree on top of the cottage cheese layer and cool until solidified.

This is a very summery refreshing salad. The wasabi in the white cottage cheese layer really works well.  The sharpness of the wasabi flavor somehow complements and accentuates the sweetness of the pink melon layer. Without the wasabi this dish would be pretty bland. We had this with chilled pink wine (always good to color coordinate whenever possible), Aix Rose 2019, Rosé from Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence, Provence, South of France. It went perfectly.

Almond flour doughnut muffin アーモンド ドーナツ マフィン

This another one of my wife's muffin projects. The original recipe came from King Arthur Flour website but she replaced some of the wheat flour with almond flour. I am not sure whether she just wanted to use the almond flour before it gets stale or to reduce the carb in this muffin or make it more gluten free. I am not sure why it is called "doughnut" muffin.

Wifey's response: The blueberry and strawberry muffins I made used pulverized almonds mixed with flour as their base. I have some almond flour which is past its "best by" date but it was still ok because we were freezing it. But when the available freezer space was reduced due to the demise of our main refrigerator, the flour wasn't frozen for a while. So, I had an increased incentive to use it up. I got to thinking maybe I could use almond flour along with the pulverized almonds in muffins by substituting the almond flour for some of the wheat flour. But I wasn't sure what proportions should be used for the substitution--100%? So I did a web search. According to the King Arthur site almond flour can be substituted for 25% of the flour in non yeast products. For yeast products, however, because almond flour does not contain gluten substituting it for the wheat flour would inhibit the rise. So, according to the instructions, instead of substituting for the wheat flour, you add 1/3 cup almond flour per cup of wheat flour. For example, if the recipe calls for 3 cups wheat flour you would use 3 cups wheat flour plus 1 cup almond flour.  While investigating percentages I found a whole bunch of recipes using almond flour. One of which was this doughnut muffin. They called it a doughnut muffin because apparently they thought if tasted like a cake donut. Sorry you asked? 

Nice texture and flavor.

Ingredients
4 tablespoons (57g) butter
2/3 cup sugar
2 Tbs. molasses
2 large eggs
1/4 cup (50g) vegetable oil
79.75 g almond flour, plus 239.25 g All Purpose flour (or 319 g wheat flour)
1 1/2 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. baking soda
1 to 1 1/4 tsp. nutmeg, to taste
3/4 tsp. salt
1 cup (227g) milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Directions
Preheat the oven to 425°F. Lightly grease a standard muffin tin.
In a food processor, cream the butter. Add the sugar and molasses and continue creaming. Add the eggs and continue creaming. With the processor running add the vegetable oil and mix until smooth. (This can also be done in a stand mixer.)
In another bowl add the flours and combine with a whisk. Stir in the baking powder, baking soda, nutmeg, salt.

Add the vanilla to the milk.
Stir the butter mixture into the flour mixture alternately with the milk mixture, beginning and ending with the flour and making sure everything is thoroughly combined.
Spoon the batter evenly into the prepared pan, filling the cups nearly full.
Bake the muffins for 15 to 17 minutes, or until they're a pale golden brown and a cake tester inserted into the middle of one of the center muffins comes out clean. Remove them from the oven, and let them cool for a couple of minutes then remove from the pan.

This is a very nice muffin. Although it included a fairly large amount of nutmeg the flavor was very mellow and pleasing. The texture was fine and tender.  Although the recipe described it as tasting just like a cake doughnut fresh out of the oil I might not go quite that far in characterizing it that way. Nonetheless this is certainly a good muffin for breakfast.