Showing posts with label bread. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bread. Show all posts

Thursday, January 28, 2021

NOT "no-knead" Pecan raisin bread 捏ねないのではないピーカン、レイズンパン

 I was duped into baking this bread by my wife. She found this bread recipe in a King-Authur flour catalog and ripped out the page. Since I mentioned in the previous blog that "When it comes to baking bread, I am in the school of the simpler the better like no-knead breads", my wife handed me this recipe, saying ‘here is another no-knead bread recipe you might want to try’.  She even made the biga starter for me the night before. So next morning, after closely reading the recipe, I pointed out that the recipe called for kneading the bread, (multiple times), indicating to me that this was not “no knead” bread. (I have no idea why she thought this was a no-knead bread). (Note from Wifey: She has no idea why either).  But by then, with the biga already made and ready to go, I did not have any choice but to make the bread. The original recipe called for dried apricots and cranberries but my wife said "just use raisins instead". (In her book, any candied or dried fruit can be substituted with raisins). So I followed her instructions. Actually the recipe requires lots of kneading, raising, deflating and raising etc. This is definitely more my wife's style bread than mine. But since I started it, I finished it.



This is an interesting bread. It is a cross between rustic and slightly sweet bread and is very versatile; good for breakfast and also with soup or stew.




Ingredients:
Biga (starter):
1 cup (120g) AP flour
1/4 cup (26g) Pumpernickel flour
1/2 cup (113g) water (my wife likes to use buttermilk instead)
1/8 tsp instant yeast

Dough:
all of the biga
3/4 cup (170g) water
2 1/4 cup (270g) AP flour
1 1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp instant yeast
1/2 cup (64g) diced dried apricots
1/4 cup (28g) dried cranberries (I used  about 1/2 cup of raisin instead).
3/4 cup (85g) chopped, toasted pecans.

The original recipe calls for egg wash  which I skipped.
The instructions were not very precise, to say the least, and I had to use my CCK (common culinary knowledge) to fill in the “blanks”.

Directions:
For the biga:
Mix all ingredients and cover and let it ferment for 12-24 hours.

For the dough (I edited for more clarity):
Mix and knead the biga, water, flour, salt and yeast (I used a stand mixer with a dough hook).
Knead in the dried fruit and the pecans.
In a bowl, put a small amount of olive oil, put in the dough ball, tuned it to coat with the oil and covered to let rise for 45 minutes.
After 45 minutes (puffy not quite doubled in bulk), pull the edges of the dough and fold to the center (4 times as you quarter turn the bowl), then turn the dough over, cover and let it rise 45 minutes.
Repeat folding and turning over the dough after 45 minutes until doubled.
Shape the dough into a ball (boule) and place in a lightly greased bowl seam-side down, cover and let it rise 45-60 minutes.
Meanwhile preheat the oven to 450F.
After 45-60 minutes (not quite doubled in bulk), brush with egg wash (I did not), slash the top (I used a lame and made a cross cut).
Bake at 450F for 15 minutes and lower the temperature to 375F and bake another 25 to 30 minutes (195F in the center of the bread).
Let it cool before slicing.

As I mentioned this is rather complicated bread to make and the original instruction was not really clear in the details. In any case, it was quite good. It was somewhat dense but moist and slightly sweet. But next time I will let my wife make it.

Addendum:

I baked this bread again. I made some changes and want to include more details on how I baked it.

My wife made biga the night before and left it in the proofing box set to 77 degrees for me to make the bread the next morning. I found the dried apricot and dried cranberries called for in the recipe but I could not find the pecans. So, instead, I used cashew nuts which my wife roasts regularly for a snack. Next problem/difference was the dough’s consistency. Later I found out my wife had added more liquid to the biga since the amount in the recipe made a very dry biga. (She referred to it as an unworkable form of concrete).  I didn’t realize this so when I added the rest of the ingredients, I did not adjust the amount of liquid. As a result the dough came out very wet and sticky, so I processed it the same as I would “Almost no knead” bread”. I went through the folding process three times, and let it rise 45 minutes each time. For the last rise, I placed it on parchment paper after I made the dough into a boule-shape and put it in a bowl to let it rise again (total of 4 rises).  I made a slash on the top of the boule and using the parchment paper placed the dough in a cast iron Dutch oven pan that had been preheated in the regular oven at 450F for 30 minutes. I baked the bread  at exactly 450F for 30 minutes with the lid on. I removed the lid and baked it for an additional 10 minutes. This worked out well as seen below. The bread had a nice crunchy crust. The interior was moist and the dried fruit gave it a slight sweet taste. The taste of the cashews was very subtle but they added to the texture. 
 

Thursday, November 5, 2020

Cream cheese and chive with white bread muffin

This is one of my wife's baking projects. She likes cream cheese with onions and chives. It come in a small plastic tub. She usually uses it for mashed potatoes. She noticed that there were several containers in the fridge that were not getting any younger. She also like muffins stuffed with a “surprise” such as sweet potato or flavored ricotta cheese. So she decided to use the cream cheese in muffins. She used her favorite white bread recipe (which surprisingly we have not blogged before) and filled it with cream cheese as shown below.




I will turn the next part over to her

Ingredients
1/2 cup milk
3 Tbs. sugar
2 tsp. salt
3 Tbs. butter
2 packages yeast
1 1/2 cup warm water
4 -6 cups bread flour

for the filling:
1 tub of Philadelphia cream cheese with chive

Directions:
Combine the milk, sugar, salt and butter in a sauce pan and heat up until the milk is scalded and the other ingredients have melted or dissolved. Add the water and let the mixture cool. Add 4 cups of bread flour and yeast to a stand mixer. When the milk mixture has cooled add it to the flour while stirring on speed 2 with the bread hook. Add more flour as needed to make a smooth workable dough. Put dough in a bowl and coat the surface with vegetable oil to keep it from drying out. Let rise until doubled.

Form the muffins by punching down the dough. I weighed the dough and decided to make muffins weighing 2 1/4 or 63.78 grams. With this dough I got 20 muffins. I then used a small ice cream scoop for the cream cheese and made 20 balls weighing about 11 grams. I folded the dough over the individual cheese balls and placed the muffins in a heavily greased pyrex baking dish. I baked them at 400 degrees for 18- 20 minutes or until they sounded hollow when tapped.

These muffins were pretty good. As usual an air space developed above the cheese. I fully expected the cheese would melt into the bread but was surprised to find it sitting there about the same consistency as when I put it in the dough. (Made me wonder what the cream cheese was actually made of). The bread was good as always and the cream cheese flavor was very pronounced. But I have to say in all honesty the easiest thing to do in the future if we want this flavor combination is just to make the muffins and smear the cheese on with a butter knife.

Monday, November 2, 2020

Baguette bake in ceramic baker version 4

This is the 4th installment in the continuing saga of trying to bake baguette using the Emil-Henry ceramic baguette baker. I think this time, it came out best among the 4 tries. Again, I made sure we only used 3 cups of flour in total, otherwise the baguettes become too large and fuse together.  The below is when it came out of the oven. The center portions of each baguette still stuck to the baker.


So we decided to let them cool before trying to remove them. Although, even then, we had to use a small spatula to “encourage” them to give up their stronghold on the baker. We were finally able to take them out without breaking the crust (below).



Here is the summary of tips for using the Emil-Henry ceramic baguette baker.
1. The total amount of flour is 3 cups. In our case we used a biga starter (1 cup bread flour, 1 cup buttermilk and 1/8 tsp instant yeast, let it ferment overnight). I added 2 cups more of bread flour). This time I had to add a bit more water.
2. Baked 25 minutes450F with lid on and an additional 10 minutes with the lid off. The additional 5 minutes of baking without the lid on made the crust more brown and harder. The harder crust appeared to help in removing  he baguette without breaking the crust.
3. Let it cool down before removing the baguette.
4. As suggested by a friend, I dusted the baker with cornmeal. I am not sure whether this helped or not. The cornmeal did not stay in the area that stuck the most since the baguettes are not flat.

In any case, we had the best baguette so far without a broken crust. Because of the slightly longer baking time, the crust was browner and a bit harder than in the previous tries. Nonetheless it tasted really good and the crust was just nicely crunchy not too thick or hard. They should have included better instructions with the baker. It should not be this difficult but, in the end, you cannot beat the crust this baker produces

Addendum (10/26/2022)
Despite all the tips described above, the next time I made baguette the center baguette stuck to the two on either side. So, this time, I made only two baguettes and left the center slot empty. This worked much better. There was some minor sticking but the baguettes came off the baker with intact crust. Finally perfection has been achieved. 



Ingredients for two mini-baguettes
2 cups bread flour
1 cup water 
1 tsp active yeast
1 tsp salt

Bake 450F with the lid on for 25 minutes and with the lid off for 5 minutes.

Wednesday, October 21, 2020

Pumpkin muffins with topping

This is a muffin-form of pumpkin bread my wife made a number of years ago. She is now really into muffins and rolls rather than loaves and is converting bread loaf recipes into muffin/roll recipes. This is one such example. Because of the topping, this is a bit sweeter than usual but not too sweet. 


She usually omits the toppings but this time the topping really worked with pumpkin/pumpkin seasoning. As usual, I ask my wife to provide the recipe.



Ingredients:
Topping:
5 Tbs. packed light brown sugar,
1Tbs. all purpose flour,
1Tbs. unsalted butter softened,
1 Tsp. ground cinnamon,
1/8 Tsp. salt.
I used my fingers to mix all the ingredients together until the mixture resembled coarse sand.

Bread:
2 cups all purpose flour,
1 1/2 Tsp baking powder,
1/2 Tsp. baking soda,
1, 15 oz. can of unsweetened pumpkin puree (According direct mathematical conversion 15 oz. should equal 425 grams.  But when I weighed the actual contents of the can it came out to 418 grams. I provide this information in case I don’t have a can of that exact size),
1tsp. salt,
1 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon,
1/4 tsp. ground nutmeg,
1/8 tsp. ground cloves,
2 cups granulated sugar,
1 Tbs. molasses,
1/2 cup vegetable oil,
4 oz. cream cheese cut into pieces,
4 large eggs,
1/4 cup buttermilk,
1 cup walnuts or pecans toasted and chopped.
1/2 cup candied ginger chopped. 


Directions:
I mixed the flour, baking powder and baking soda together in a bowl and set it aside. I combined the pumpkin puree, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves in a large sauce pan and cooked continuously until it turned brown and reduced by about half. I removed the pan from the heat and stirred in the sugars, molasses, oil and cream cheese. I mixed it until everything was incorporated and homogeneous. I whisked together the eggs and buttermilk and added it to the pumpkin mixture. (This step requires some care not to curdle the eggs so either let the mixture cool down or temper the eggs a bit before adding.) I poured the cooled pumpkin mixture into the flour mixture to form a batter. I folded the walnuts into the batter. Using a large scoop I distributed the dough into heavily greased muffin tins and sprinkled the topping mixture on top of the muffins. I cooked the muffins in a 350 degree oven for about 25 to 30 minutes or until a skewer came out clean. Just after cooking, the muffins are very tender so I let them rest in the pan for about 20 minutes before I attempted to remove them.

This is a great seasonal treat. It has lovely pumpkin spice flavor. The texture is very tender with a nice crunch from the nuts. And muffins are just the right size for breakfast with coffee.

Friday, October 16, 2020

Kabocha ginger rolls かぼちゃ生姜ロール

 I got a whole Japanese "kabocha" squash the other day from Hmart via the Instacart. I made my usual simmered kabocha かぼちゃの煮物 and pottage かぼちゃのポタージュ. That left half a kabocha. I could have made other kabocha dishes but my wife wanted to make Kabocha ginger rolls/muffins and I gladly donated the remaining kabocha. This is a variation of pumpkin ginger rolls she made before. Instead of canned pumpkin puree, she baked the kabocha in the oven and removed the meat (actually I did most of this part). Using this, she made the roll as well as stuffing for the rolls.


Because the stuffing includes some moisture steam forms when the muffins are cooked resulting in the small space above the stuffing shown in the picture below. This doesn't adversely affect either the texture or flavor. 


I asked my wife to continue with the recipe.


Ingredients:
For bread
4 1/2 cups bread flour
2 1/4 tsp pumpkin pie spice
1/3 cup sugar
1 1/2 tsp salt
1 Tbs yeast
420 grams (or 15 oz.) of mashed Kobocha (all of this goes into the bread. If more is available that goes into the filling)
2 large eggs
4 Tbs. butter melted
1/2 cup raisins (optional)

For the stuffing:
Note: See below, for 20 muffins I used about 360 gm. combined weight of kobach and ricotta
remaining amount of mashed  kobacha  (this is in addition to the 420 that goes into the bread)
ricotta cheese
Finely diced candied ginger to taste (optional)
amounts discussed below

Another stuffing option:
A total of 360 g combination of mashed cooked kobacha, cream cheese and 1/2 cup finely chopped candied ginger.  

Directions:
For the cooked pumpkin (kabocha)

Cut the Kabocha in half, remove seeds and guts. Place cut side down on a cookie sheet. Cook in a 350 degree oven for 30 minutes until it becomes soft. Remove the skin and mash to a puree.

For the pumpkin bread:
Put the kobocha puree and pumpkin pie spice in the bowel of stand mixer. Add the sugar, salt, eggs and melted butter. Bloom the yeast and add it to the pumpkin mixture. Using a paddle stir until completely blended. Switch to a dough hook and add the flour to the wet ingredients. Knead dough for about 2 to 3 minutes until ingredients are blended then let rest for 15 minutes. Continue kneading, adding flour until the dough reaches a workable consistency. Knead for 7 to 10 minutes. If adding raisins knead them in after kneading for 7 minutes and continue kneading the extra 3 minutes to incorporate them.

Transfer dough to a lightly oiled bowel. Turn the dough so it gets coated with the oil.
Cover and let rise until it doubles. Punch dough down and turn out onto a floured cutting board.

Assembly:
This gets a bit complicated. When making stuffed muffins I got tired of eye-balling the amount of filling I needed only to have it run out before I had filled all the rolls or have some left over, so I came up with a system to measure out the right amount. I do this by first measuring the total weight of the dough. In this case the dough weighed 1420 grams. I knew a muffin weighing about 71 grams is a good size so I calculated how many muffins I would get out of the dough; 1420/71 = 20 muffins. Next I calculated how much filling I would need. I knew from experimentation that an 18 gram ball would make a good ratio of filling to bread so I calculated the total amount of filling I would need; 18 x 20 = 360 grams. I took the leftover kabocha and supplemented it with ricotta cheese and about 1/2 cup of finely chopped candied ginger until the total equaled 360 grams. With this method the ratio of kabocha to other ingredients in the filling can vary but the total should be enough filling for all the muffins. The actual weights will vary each time the muffins are made depending on the combined ingredients. Only the method would be consistent.

I started by making each of the filling balls for the muffins and setting them aside. This makes assembly more efficient. Then I cut the dough into pieces, weighed them and stuffed them with the pre-measured stuffing balls. (The stuffing was just enough to fill each muffin!) I put the muffins into a heavily greased baking pan. Covered and let rise again (about 1/2 hour). Meanwhile, I preheated the oven to 375 degrees. I cooked the rolls for 20 minutes. Remove from the pan immediately after they come out of the oven.

These are great rolls. The crystalized ginger in the stuffing really makes this roll. It provides a nice burst of sharp but sweet flavor. The creamy texture of the filling really went well with the surrounding dough and the raisins added an additional burst of tender sweetness. Compared to canned pumpkin puree, kabocha really tasted better.

Tuesday, September 1, 2020

Super-soft Milk Bread 日本風食パン

Many years ago, when we visited Tokyo 東京, we stayed at hotels in the Asakusa area 浅草. (More recently, we've been staying at hotels in the Ginza/Tokyo station area). One of the fond memories we have of our stay at the Asakusa hotels was going to a coffee house or "Kissa-ten" 喫茶店 for breakfast and coffee. At that time, they usually offered, at a very reasonable price, choices of "morning sets" モーニングセットdesignated as  "A", "B" or "C". They consisted of some kind of egg (hard boiled or egg salad) and slightly different sides such as a mini green salad or cucumber. The foundation of the meal, and, as far as we are concerned, the best part, was a very thick slice of soft bread lightly toasted and served with butter or sometimes jam or jelly. The second cup of coffee was usually available at a steep discount which was another reason we liked breakfast at the Kissa-ten. Recently my wife came across a recipe for "Super-soft Milk Bread". In addition to being reminiscent of our favorite Kissa-ten bread, the accompanying write-up referred to it as a variation of "Hokkaido milk bread". Since I am originally from Hokkaido 北海道, that "sealed the deal". I had to make this. This is a very different recipe from our usual white bread loaf. It came out super soft, light and fluffy. It really reminded us of "Kissa-ten" toast. I sliced a very thick piece (but not as thick as some we had at kissa-ten) toasted it and slathered on the butter. Voila!


Some Japanese recipes for this type of bread include "Yu-dane" 湯種 or "Yu-kone or Yu-gone" 湯捏ね in which  a portion of flour is mixed and kneaded with hot water. Instead, this recipe pre-cooked the flour and milk into a soft paste called "tangzhong" which is the Chinese pronunciation of "Yu-dane"  湯種.  I read that this was popularized by a Chinese cookbook author Yvonne Chen as "tangzhong" which is the term that commonly appears in English-written recipes for this type of bread. This recipe came from the King Arthur website.

Ingredients
Tangzhong
3 tablespoons (43g) water
3 tablespoons (43g) whole milk
2 tablespoons (14g) King Arthur Unbleached Bread Flour


Dough
2 1/2 cups (298g) King Arthur Unbleached Bread Flour
2 tablespoons (14g) Baker's Special Dry Milk or nonfat dry milk
1/4 cup (50g) sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon instant yeast (This looked like too much for one loaf of bread, next time I may reduced it in half)
1/2 cup (113g) whole milk
1 large egg
4 tablespoons (57g) unsalted butter, melted

I weighed all ingredients except for the yeast and egg.

Directions
To make the tangzhong: Combine all of the ingredients in a small saucepan, and whisk until no lumps remain.

Place the saucepan over low heat and cook the mixture, whisking constantly, until it becomes thick and the whisk leaves lines on the bottom of the pan, about 3 to 5 minutes (#1 below).

Transfer the tangzhong to a small mixing bowl or measuring cup and let it cool to lukewarm.
To make the dough
Combine the tangzhong with the remaining dough ingredients, then mix and knead — by mixer or bread machine — until a smooth, elastic dough forms; this could take almost 15 minutes in a stand mixer (I used a standing mixer with a dough hook and kneaded it for 7-10 minutes).

Shape the dough into a ball, and let it rest in a lightly greased bowl, covered, for 60 to 90 minutes, until puffy but not necessarily doubled in bulk.

Gently deflate the dough and divide it into four equal pieces; if you have a scale each piece will weigh between 170g and 175g (I divided the dough in half-- I should have weighed the halves; the loaf came out uneven).

Flatten each piece of dough into a 5" x 8" rectangle, then fold the short ends in towards one another like a letter. Flatten the folded pieces into rectangles again (this time about 3" x 6") and, starting with a short end, roll them each into a 4" log. (After flattening, folding, I rolled it into two logs).

Place the logs in a row of four (in my case, two) — seam side down and side by side — in a lightly greased 9" x 5" loaf pan.

Cover the loaf and allow it to rest/rise for 40 to 50 minutes, until puffy (#2 below).

Toward the end of the rising time, preheat the oven to 350°F.

To bake the bread: Brush the loaf with milk and bake it for 30 to 35 minutes, until it's golden brown on top and a digital thermometer inserted into the center reads at least 190°F (#3 below).
Remove the loaf from the oven and cool it in the pan until you can transfer it safely to a rack to cool completely (#4).



The dough rose rather quickly (this is the reason I think I will reduce the yeast next time). After the bread completely cooled, I sliced it (#4).We have been making white bread loafs for some time using an old recipe which came with our stand mixer. Our white bread loaf is good but this one is different and may be better. It is extremely light and very close to the Japanese loaf bread we had at the Kissa-ten. We were "transported" back to Tokyo with the first bite. It had a mildly sweet flavor and the crust was nice and crunchy. We will definitely make this again for sure.

Addendum:

I doubled the amount and made two loaves. I also, decreased the yeast by half (proportionally). I also weighed the 4 portions (2 for one loaf) and they came out in equal sizes (see pictures below). This is just a note to myself so that I do not have to calculate  the ingredients' weight again.

Ingredients:

Tangzhong
86 g water
86 g whole milk
28 g King Arthur Unbleached Bread Flour

Dough
596 g King Arthur Unbleached Bread Flour
28 g  nonfat dry milk 
100 g sugar
2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon instant yeast
226 g whole milk
2 large egg
114 g (one stick) unsalted butter, melted

Despite halving the yeast, the dough rose and the bread came out soft and fluffy. It may have taken a little bit more time to rise but the flavor of the bread, we thought, was better.

Friday, August 21, 2020

No Knead rye bread with "Karikari"-salted plum カリカリ青梅入り捏ねないライ麦パン

 As I promised in the previous post on no-knead olive rye bread, I made no-knead rye bread with "karikari-koume" カリカリ小梅 or salted small green plums. Initially I thought this bread was a failure, primarily because after 18 hours of rising not all the flour was incorporated into the dough as it should have been. It did not rise much and even after baking it was still a fairly flat loaf. In addition, as I was getting ready to incorporate the green plums into the dough my wife came along and snarfed a plum to taste. (This was the first time she tried one). She made the face reserved for eating raw lemons and blurted, 'how can you ever eat these things?' For her, it was not only salty but also very sour. For me it was salty but not that sour.


Initially, I had prepared 200 grams of the salted plums to add to the dough. After her tasting, and at her suggestion, I reduced the amount to about 150 grams and chopped them into smaller pieces  It turned out this was the right thing to do.


On the cut surface the plums look like green olives.



Ingredients
300 grams bread flour
100 grams rye flour
2 grams instant yeast
150 grams Karikari-koume salted plum, stone removed and roughly chopped (It is easiest to crush the plum with the flat of the knife and then split the plum open to remove the stone. I chopped a bit more finely than for the olives)
300 grams cold water

Directions
Exactly same as the other no-knead breads. Mix everything, cover and let it rise for 12-18 hours. Form the ball on a well-floured board by pulling the edges to the center. Dust with more flour and cover with a floured dish towel (I also placed an inverted large bowl over it). Let it rise for 1-2 hours. Preheat the oven to 450F with cast iron Dutch oven inside for, at least, 30 minutes before baking. Place the dough in the hot cast iron dutch oven, put the lid on and bake for 30 minutes. Remove the lid and bake an additional 10-15 minutes. Take it out and let it completely cool on a cooling rack.

All I can say after this experience is that yeast bread is very "forgiving". Turned out this "failure" bread was not bad at all. The taste was unique and very interesting (in a good way). The addition of the plums was just fine. The bread toned down the sourness and they provided a nice burst of saltiness reminiscent of olives but with the distinctive plummy flavor so characteristic of Japanese dishes. This combination of rustic rye bread and salty plum is similar to a rice ball with "karikari koume". The texture was very moist and the crust nice and crunchy. My wife fully endorsed the final product and said I should make it again.

Tuesday, August 18, 2020

Baguette in the porcelain baker 3rd try バゲットベイカー3度め

This is the 3rd try making baguette using an Emile Henry baguette baker. It came out better than previous attempts but despite generous oiling and dusting with flour the bread maker, the bread still stuck to the bottom portion of the baking dish.
I generously oiled and then dusted with flour as shown below.  
Then, I placed the dough in the baker and let it rise.
I slashed the loves with a lame and sprayed water on the surface.
The loaves came out looking good. But the bottom of all of them especially the center one, stuck to the baker,
I removed them but some crust was lost stuck to the baker.
I was frustrated and start looking for comments about this baker. Sure enough lots of people complained about the stickiness. Some people were totally irate. Some said after the 4th try it stopped sticking. So, I should try at least one more time. Despite the sticking, the baguettes had a nice texture and flavor.

Saturday, August 15, 2020

No knead olive rye bread 捏ねないオリーブライ麦パン

This is a continuation of my saga on no-knead breads. The last time, I made olive bread following the original recipe, I felt that the amount of water was too much even though it turned out to be a wonderful bread. The dough was too wet to handle easily. We also thought that the combination of salty olives with no-knead rye bread would taste even better. So this is the version I baked. It came out looking nice and rustic.
After it completely cooled down, we cut into it. This time I used half and half of Divina Kalamata and green olives.

Ingredients
300 grams Bread flour 
100 grams Rye flour
2 grams instant yeast
200 grams black and green olives (Salt brine) or all one kind, roughly chopped,
300 grams cold (52-65F) water

*changes I made from the original olive bread recipe were replacing 100 grams of flour with rye flour and reducing the water to 300grams from 350 grams.

Directions
The directions are same as for the other no knead bread.

Mix everything in a bowl with a wooden spoon.
Cover with a plastic wrap and let it rise for 12-18 hours.
Remove the dough from the bowl to a well floured board. 
Bring the outer edges into the center to make a round shape. 
Transfer it to a well floured dish towel, dust the surface with more flour and fold the towel to cover. Let it rise for 1-2 hours.
Preheat the oven with the cast iron pot inside to 450F for at least 30 minutes prior to baking.

Place the dough in the heated pot, put on the lid and bake for 30 minutes.
Remove the lid and bake an additional 5-10 minutes.
Take out the bread and let it completely cool on a cooling rack.


The dough was plenty wet and sticky despite the 50gram reduction in water from the original olive bread recipe. The texture of the bread was similar and I think this is enough hydration. Again, the burst of flavor from the salt brine olives and the addition of rye really made this bread. We think, for us, this is a better olive bread. Next plan is to make a similar bread using the "karikari koume" カリカリ小梅 I made instead of olives.

Tuesday, July 28, 2020

No knead Olive bread 捏ねないオリーブパン

This is another variation of a "No knead" bread. This turned out to be an excellent olive bread but the dough was extremely wet and difficult to work with.


Since the olives are salty I didn’t add any additional salt. It has a nice texture and the taste of the olives was really nice.


Few pimentos got out into the bread.



Ingredients
400 grams bread flour
3 grams instant yeast
200 grams salt brined olives (I used 80% Divina Kalamata olivs and 20 % pimento stuffed green olives), roughly chopped
350 grams of cold water (50-55F)

Directions
Same as other no knead breads
Mixed everything in a bowl with a wooden spoon. This is definitely a wet dough since the recipe called for 50 grams more water than I used in the previous versions of no kneed bread I have made . 
Cover with a plastic wrap and let it rise for 12-18 hours.
Remove the dough from the bowl to a well floured board.
Bring the outer edges into the center to make a round shape.
Transfer it to a well floured dish towel, dust the surface with more flour and fold the towel to cover. Let it rise for 1-2 hours.
Preheat the oven with the cast iron pot inside to 450F for at least 30 minutes prior to baking.
Place the dough in the heated pot, put on the lid and bake for 30 minutes
Remove the lid and bake an additional 5-10 minutes.
Take out the bread and let it completely cool on a cooling rack.

Since this was such a wet dough, the dish towel I used for the second rising was soaked, the dough stuck to it and it was almost impossible to place the dough in the hot cast iron pot. But, once in, it baked nicely. Because of the high hydration ratio, the inside the bread is really tender and the crust is nice. The bursts of olive and salty flavors are great. We really like this bread but I may reduce the water to 300 grams just because it is so difficult to handle the wet and sticky dough. I also would like to replace 100 grams of wheat flour with rye flour which may make this bread even better.

Thursday, July 16, 2020

Baguettes baked in Emile Henry ceramic baker 陶器ベイカーで焼いたバゲット

I have been making baguettes for some time. Getting a good crust on the bread, however, is always tricky since home ovens do not have steam injectors. I used to create the necessary steam by putting a baking sheet below the baking stone and then throwing in a couple of ice cubes after placing the baguettes on the baking stone. I believe that this may have led to the eventual demise of our old oven. In the interests of preserving our replacement oven I stopped the “ice cube” method and, instead, I sprayed water on the baguette dough just before putting it into the oven. This creates some crust but not a good one. More recently I started baking no-knead bread in a cast iron pot which created a nice crust. Apparently steam from the dough gets trapped and produces the crust. Since it is not possible to place a long straight baguette in a short round pot, we got this french made (Emile Henry) ceramic baguette baker. It requires some modifications to my baking methods. The below is the second try which I consider 80% successful. Since I made this using biga/poolish starter that my wife made, the texture is great, the taste is wonderful and cooked in the new baker, the crust is much better. But, these are not full size baguettes; they should be called mini-baguettes.


This shows the baguette baker with lid. (Lovely, luscious red color. All the other colors were sold out. Baking has become very popular during covid.) There are three small holes on the top.


The below picture shows the the baker bottom with the lid removed This makes three rather small baguettes.




Ingredients
For biga/poolish
1 cup bread flour
1 cup buttermilk
1/8 tsp active yeast

Mix in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, then with towels and keep at room temperature for 12 hours.

2 cups of bread flour
1/2 tbs Kosher salt
Additional water/flour if needed

Directions
In a stand mixer, fitted with a dough hook, add the biga, the flour, salt and mix in low speed. Once the dough is formed, turn up the speed. The dough may be attached to the bowl at the bottom but cleanly pulls away from the sides. If too wet, add flour, if too dry, add water. Let it knead for 7-8 minutes.
Scrape out the dough onto a well floured work surface and hand knead until smooth. Form into a ball and seal by pinching the bottom seam.  Add a small amount of neutral oil in a bowl, place the dough, turn to coat all surfaces. Cover it with a plastic wrap and then towels and let it rise for a few hours in warm draft-free place. When it doubles in size, deflate, fold and put it back in the bowl cover and let it rise for the second time for a few more hours.

Place the dough on a well-floured work surface. Fold several times and divide into three equal sized balls (I weighed the pieces to make sure all three were of equal weight). Let the dough rest for 10 minutes. Fold the dough ball in half twice to make a short cylinder. Make an elongated dough which will fit the bottom of the baker (see below). Put on the cover and let it rise 20-30 minutes. Slash the dough with a lame or sharp knife, spray enough water on the dough to coat it, put the lid on and place it the oven preheated to 450F for 25 minutes, 


Take off the lid and bake another 5 minutes until golden brown (below)


Take the baguettes out of the baker and cool on a wire rack. This was, as I said before, only an 80% success. The first attempt was a sort of failure since I used a total of 3 and 3/4 cup flour which was too much dough. Although the initial dough fit nicely in the baker the baguettes expanded and fused together into one mass. It still tasted good. The second try, I used a total of 3 cups of flour (one cup in the starter and I added 2 cups more). This amount of dough fit very nicely but the center baguette was stuck to the baker bottom and half of the bottom crust came off. To remedy this problem,  we may need to grease and flour the base. We will post if this works next time. I forgot to mention that with the biga starter this bread had a wonderful flavor that is unmatched by any commercially made bread we have ever eaten. 

Monday, July 13, 2020

No knead rye bread 捏ねないライ麦パン

This is another "No knead" bread. This time it was rye bread. The below is how this one came out. Looks pretty rustic and nice.


After it was completely cooled, I sliced it. The hole-yness is just right as was the thickness of the crust.




Ingredients
300gram bread flour
100gram rye flour
>8gram salt
2gram instant yeast
300gram cold (55-65F) water

Directions
Same was other no knead bread. I baked at 450 F instead of 475 F. 

Since I made instant gravlax from sashimi-grade salmon the day before and there was still some left over, I made a small canapé with the rye bread thinly sliced and lightly toasted, topped with this gravlax (this one was made with 23 year old home made umeshu 梅酒 instead of straight vodka). I topped the salmon with sour cream and cucumber slices.


Although rye flavor is not really pronounced, this is a good rustic bread with nice flavor and texture and perfect for this canapé/open sandwich.

Wednesday, June 10, 2020

No Knead whole wheat bread 捏ねない全粒小麦粉パン

This is from Washington post's  free-bee digital baking cookbook. We made "No knead English muffin"  from this cookbook which was very easy and good. So we decide to try this second recipe from the same cookbook. It turns out this is the most rustic bread we've ever made (or even eaten for that matter). Later we learned this recipe is originally by Jim Lahey's cookbook "My Bread. The revolutionally no-work, no-knead method". So, we also got his book. Certainly, this bread looks nice, rustic and artisanal without kneading.


Cutting into it; a nice crust and very "hole-y".




Ingredients:
300 grams (2 1⁄4 cups) bread flour, plus more for the work surface
100 grams (3/4 cup) whole-wheat flour
1 1⁄4 teaspoons table salt

1⁄2 teaspoon dried instant yeast
300 grams (1 1/3 cups) cool water (55 to 65 degrees)
Wheat bran or cornmeal, for dusting (may use additional flour)

I weighed the flours and water. I used yellow corn meal for dusting.

Directions:
Step 1: Stir together the flours, salt and yeast in a medium bowl. Add the water; use a wooden spoon or your hands to mix until you have a wet, sticky dough, about 30 seconds. Cover the bowl and let the mixture sit at room temperature until its surface is dotted with bubbles and the dough has more than doubled in size, 12 to 18 hours.

Step 2: Generously dust a work surface with flour. Use a rubber spatula or lightly floured hands to scrape the dough onto the surface in one piece. Use your lightly floured hands to lift the edges of the dough up and in toward the center. Gently pinch the pulled- up dough together, cupping the edges in your hands as needed to nudge it into a round (don’t worry about making it a perfect circle).

Step 3: Place a clean dish towel on your work surface; generously dust the towel with wheat bran, cornmeal or flour. Gently place the dough on the towel, seam side down. If the dough feels sticky, dust the top lightly with more wheat bran, cornmeal or flour. Fold the ends of the towel loosely over the dough to cover it. Place the dough in a warm, draft-free spot to rise for 1 to 2 hours. The dough is ready when it has almost doubled in size. When you gently poke the dough with your finger, it should hold the impression. If it springs back, let it rise for an additional 15 minutes.

Step 4: About half an hour before you think the second rise is complete, position a rack in the lower third of the oven and place a 4 1/2- to 5 1/2-quart heavy Dutch oven or pot with a lid in the center of the rack. Preheat to 475 degrees. Use pot holders to carefully remove the preheated pot from the oven, then lift off the lid. Uncover the dough. Quickly but gently invert it off the towel and into the pot, seam side up. (Use caution — the pot and lid will be very hot.) Cover with the lid; bake (lower rack) for 30 minutes.

Step 5: Remove the lid; continue baking until the loaf is a deep chestnut color but not burnt, 15 to 30 minutes more. (If you like a more precise measure, the bread is done when an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the bread registers 200 to 210 degrees.) Use a heatproof spatula or pot holders to carefully lift the bread out of the pot and place it on a rack to cool thoroughly before serving or storing.

Certainly, looks great.


It was still warm when we sliced off a piece, buttered it and tasted it. This may be too crusty and rustic for us. The crust was extreme and almost felt like it broke into shards when we crunched it. It also didn't seem to have much flavor. My wife commented that it would make a nice crouton to dunk into  hardy stews or soups but not the first choice for breakfast with coffee. Certainly some liquid is required and wine alone was not enough to enjoy this bread.

The next day, we had a toasted slice of this bread with cauliflower parmesan potage (similar to what we posted), and a small salad as a lunch and it was great! Somehow resting overnight made the bread much better. The crust, while crunchy, was not as hard and the overall texture of the bread had improved. The toasty flavor of the whole wheat flour really shone through.  So what was the lesson learned here? We were clearly too hasty busting into this bread before it had cooled enough. It needs to rest at least until fully cooled or, at best, one day to mature to its full potential--and it is well worth the wait.  This is definitely a very good bread to have.

Subsequently, reading Jim Lahey's cookbook we found the following passage which confirmed what we stumbled upon and mentioned above. "After the bread is removed from the oven there is a final step in the process. The cooling step is crucial. Thorough cooling actually completes the cooking of the dough and when you slice a hot loaf you are releasing heat and moisture prematurely. The bread will taste under baked and wet."

Sunday, June 7, 2020

Carrot bread muffin キャロットブレッドマフィン

We made carrot juice recently since we had quite a few carrots which were beginning to put out roots and had to be quickly used. The juice was very sweet and delicious but my wife looked at the left over carrot pulp and thought it would be too wasteful to just throw it away. So, she used the left over pulp to make these carrot bread muffins.



The carrot pulp that remained in the juicer was very different from grated carrot which is usually used in carrot cake muffins. As shown below it was very fine and kind of dry after the juice was extracted. Despite this difference it made very nice carrot cake muffins. The recipe came from somewhere on the web but it appears to be a standard recipe.


Ingredients:
1 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
3/4 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp. ground ginger
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) melted butter
1 cup packed brown sugar
1 large egg
2 tbsp. sour cream
1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
1 1/2 cup grated carrots (from about 4 carrots)
1/2 cup golden raisins (she used regular raisin)
1/2 cup chopped toasted pecans

Directions:
Preheat oven to 375°.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients; flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, and ginger (#1 left bowl). In another large bowl, whisk together the wet ingredients; melted butter, brown sugar, egg, sour cream, and vanilla (#1 right bowl). Stir the carrots (#2), into the liquid ingredients until thoroughly blended (#3). Add the raisins,(#4) and pecans. Stir in the flour mixture until just combined. (# 5). Grease a 12-cup muffin tin with butter. Divide the batter among the muffin tins (#6). Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center of a muffin comes out clean, 20 to 25 minutes.


Despite using the somewhat dry carrot pulp, the muffins came out really nice and moist with the characteristic carrot cake flavor. This muffin is perfect for breakfast.

Monday, June 1, 2020

Garlic Mozzarella bread ニンニク、モッツァレラチーズパン

Somehow my wife found a YouTube video of this recipe and I follow the link to the recipe. The next day which happened to be Sunday, I made this bread. Although I followed the recipe and baked at 400F for 20 minutes, it was a bit over done (I used "intense heat" setting for the oven and the baking stone was in place. Next time I will bake this bread at 350F). The surface was nicely crunchy (essentially "fried" with butter).


The melted Mozzarella cheese made nice layers.


We started enjoying this bread as soon as it came out of the oven and it was still steaming. Since this was evening, we had it with a glass of Napa Cabernet. Within an hour the loaf had been reduced by 2/3's to the the size shown below. If you are wondering 'was the bread good' this should say it all.  This was sort of modified pizza or focaccia and yes, it was really good.


This recipe came from the blog "Baking and cooking with Ninik".


Ingredients:
Dough:
250g (2 cups) all-purpose flour/plain flour
5g (1-1/2 tsp) instant yeast
25g (2 tbsp) sugar
1/2 tsp salt
42g (3 tbsp) unsalted butter, melted
125ml (1/2 cup) warm milk
1 egg, whisked
Flour for kneading, if necessary

250g lactose-free fresh Mozzarella cheese (125g of each) (I just used cow milk fresh Mozzarella) .
Slice into small pieces.
Other cheese could be used if Mozzarella isn't available.

Garlic Scallion butter:
2 tbsp softened butter
1 tsp minced garlic
2 tbsp chopped scallions
1/2 tsp salt
Mix well

A sharp blade or regular knife.
Egg to brush the edge, if you are using.
Freshly cracked black pepper

Method for the dough:
In a mixing bowl, stir all the dough ingredients into a soggy dough.
Transfer to the counter, use flour if necessary to fold the dough with your fingers, fold, and press to guide the dough into a ball.
Put the dough ball on a baking tray (or we can use a round baking pan/pizza pan).
Cover until almost doubled (#1). After the dough expands, flatten with hand into a circle (#2).
Using a sharp blade, score the dough crisscross style (#3). Brush with egg at the edges if you like.
Spread garlic butter on the surface evenly (#4). Mark again the scored with a spoon for easier putting the cheese.
Insert pieces of Mozzarella cheese to fill the scored dough (#5). Add freshly cracked black pepper on top.
Bake at 200°C (400°F) preheated oven, top-bottom heat, for 20 - 25 minutes. An oven may vary.
During baking, you might find the butter leaking out to the baking tray (#4) (My oven appears to be hotter, I will bake it at 350F next time).
Best to eat warm to get the stretchy melting cheese. (Although, believe me, it is mighty-fine even when not piping hot.)


I think the scallion butter really made this bread special. The scallions became caramelized in the butter. The dough itself was very tender and almost slightly sweet. It made a nice contrast to the crunch of the crust and the toasted cheese. Wine and this bread, what else do you need? I will try it again for sure.

Version #2: The first version of this bread did not last long so fairly soon I made a second version with some various tweaks to hopefully improve an already pretty good final product. I decided to include my notes as an addendum to this blog. One of the changes I made was to score (cut) the loaf after I spread on the garlic onion butter as seen below (instead of before as suggested by the original recipe). This way, the cuts stayed open and it was easier to stuff them with the cheese.


Cheese stuffing is still a bit tedious but easier than with the previous version.


Another change was that I lowered the temperature to 350F. The original recipe did say the temperature may vary based on the oven. The oven I use is a convection oven and may run a bit hot. As shown below the loaf came out much better.


As before we had this with a glass of red wine. As before the bread was great and the changes I made were an improvement. The cheese was better distributed and cooking at the lower temperature resulted in a better texture to the bread. It was much more tender with an almost cake like crumb that was very pleasing.  As before the scallions caramelized beautifully and permeated the flavor throughout. As before, the only problem with this bread is that it pulls a pretty quick disappearing act. It's hard to resist going back for just one more piece--just another little one.