Grilled trout and fava beans 鱒の塩焼きと焼きそら豆

This is a continuation of the grill-out-side-while-mosquitos-are-not-out moment. I have posted grilled trout before. I have an excuse for posting this again because this was boned and butter flied trout and we used the “Yakitori” rather than the Weber grill. I prefer bone-in trout but only butter flied trout was available. I just salted it and grilled it in its simplest way.
One of the problems with trout prepared this way is that fishmongers usually do not scale them. Since we like to eat the skin, I scaled the skin. But once it was butter flied and deboned, it is more difficult to scale. In any case, I scaled it and put two long metal skewers through. The reason for this is seen below. I put the tip (where the fish head is) of the skewers into the grate so that most of the fish was floating over the grate. I did this to prevent the skin from sticking to the grate. Once the skin is cooked, it can be placed directly on the grate without worrying about sticking (above).
It is not photographed but I also grilled eggplant. Since this is the season for fresh fava beans, I also grilled fava beans (soramame 空豆) in pods (see below) and served with a small mound of Kosher salt We removed the beans from the outer skins and peeled off the inner skins before dipping into the salt. .
I served the trout with grated daikon and soy sauce. I took few pictures but they do not look very neat and am not showing them. It has been a long time since we had either the trout or fava beans. Nothing beats trout cooked over a charcoal fire. The fava bean were tender and sweet. The mosquitoes don’t know what they are missing.

Grilled shrimp with Yuzu-kosho marinade 海老の串焼き柚子胡椒風味

Since the mosquito-free period is limited, we are doing outside grilling as often as we can. This is one of those times. For a change, we grilled skewered shrimp. To make it interesting I made a marinade which contains yuzu-koshou 柚子胡椒.

This was good. It was a bit spicy but had a nice citrus flavor from the "Yuzu".

Marinade: I mixed yuzu-koshou (from a tube, 2 tsp), soy sauce (2 tbs) and mirin (1 tbs).
I brushed this several times on the both side of the skewered shrimp (above picture) and let it sit for 30 minutes.

I cooked on a medium charcoal fire turning several times and also brushing on the marinade (above). Doneness is somewhat difficult to tell but the best way is to remove one from the end and cut into it to make sure everything is opaque (Even that was difficult since it was getting dark).
In any case, this was a nice appetizer for the evening.

Broccolini in the style of "Nanohana" ブロッコリニの菜の花風おひたし

When Spring comes, many Japanese dishes reflect the season. One of those, in my mind, is "Nanohana" 菜の花. Although this plant is mainly cultivated for oil ("natane abura" 菜種油), similar to rapeseed oil, Japanese enjoy eating the young just-about-to-blossom buds as a symbol of Spring. It has a slightly bitter taste. Although rapeseed is widely cultivated in the West,  I have never seen "flowering buds" being offered for food.*

* Digression alert: My wife was shocked to learn Japanese eat the rapeseed plant because it was her understanding the plant, seed and oil were considered toxic to humans and livestock. She said that was probably why I had not seen flowering buds in the grocery store. I was sure "Nanohana" is related to rapeseed and has been eaten in Japan with no ill effect for quite some time so I decided to do some research.
Turns out, rapeseed contains glucosinolates which gives it a bitter taste and, in high doses, is toxic. The seeds of rapeseed apparently contain a higher level of glucosinolates than the leaves and buds. In addition cattle that were fed rapeseed meal (residue left over after the seeds were crushed for oil) didn't appreciate the taste, changed their feeding habits and lost weight further leading to the perception that it was toxic. Many vegetables such as broccoli, cauliflower, and Brussels sprouts, however, also contain small amounts of the same substance which is the source of bitterness in their taste. Rapeseed also contains erucic acid. Between the glucosinolates and erucic acid, rapeseed was not considered suitable for human consumption or cattle feed in Canada, US and the European Union until the 1970's when the Canadians came up with a rapeseed cultivar low in toxin and acid called CANOLA (CANadian seed Oil Low-Acidity). There is now a rapeseed cultivar (rapeseed 00) which has much lower erucic acid and glucosinolates and is considered fit for human consumption.
Japanese "Nanohana"  may have its roots in ancient varieties of rapeseed which came to Japan from China centuries ago. It originated from west asian and northern european varieties that grew as weeds in barley fields. Also, since the leaves, which are eaten in nanohana contain lower concentration of glucosinolates it would be more acceptable for human consumption in Asia than in Europe where primarily the more toxic seed was use for oil production. Japan produced its own low glucosinolates and erucic acid cultivars as well as cultivars that are more suited as edible vegetables than for oil production. Nonetheless the vast majority of currently grown varietals in Japan are imported from the West. That was probably more than you ever wanted to know about the rapeseed plant.

As far as I can tell, we have two possible substitutes for Nanohana; one is broccolini and the other is broccoli rabe. Broccoli rabe, which is also called "Rapini" has a more assertive "bitterness" than "Nanohana" and broccolini, although similar in form and texture, has a very neutral taste and lacks the bitterness. I think, Rapini may be closer to Nanohana because of the bitterness. I have no idea which of these substitutes is more closely related to "Nanohana" taxonomically.

 I made two small dishes; one from broccolini (below) and broccoli rabe (the second picture below, two separate evenings) to represent spring.

Broccolini: I used only the top portion with flowering buds. The long stalks are edible but tend to be a bit hard. I boiled it in salted water for 4-5 minutes or until the thickest part of the stems were cooked but still crunchy. I shocked it in ice cold water to stop the cooking and maintain the fresh green color.
Broccoli rabe: Similar to broccolini in terms of the preparation. I removed the larger stems and leaves especailly the ones that started turning yellow. I blanched it in the same manner as the broccolini including  shocking in ice cold water.

Dressing: I had several choices; mustard soy sauce (karashi-zouuyu 辛子醤油) and sesame soy sauce (goma-shouuyu 胡麻醤油). Another choice is "ohitashi" お浸し meaning to "soak".  For this preparatio,  the vegetables are "soaked" in a mixture of dashi, soy sauce and mirin in 8-6:1:1 ratio for  5-10 minutes before serving
For the broccolini, I used mustard soy sauce. I put prepared Japanese hot mustard or neri-garashi 練り芥子 (1/4 tsp or to taste) in a small Suribachi すり鉢 or a Japanese mortar and added sugar (1/4 tsp). I added soy sauce in small increments as I mixed the mustard paste, sugar and soy sauce together using a pestle. I tasted it as I went until the combined sweetness and hot mustard taste was appropriate (about 1 tbs of soy sauce or slightly more).
For the broccoli rabe, I decided not to use any of the choices listed above and instead made an altogether different dressing. My wife had roasted walnuts for another dish and there were some leftover. So I decided to make a walnut soy sauce dressing. I ground about 2 tbs of roasted walnuts (dark skin removed by rubbing in paper towel) in a Suribachi Japanese mortar. When the walnuts released oil and became a bit pasty, I added sugar (1/4 tsp) and soy sauce (2-3 tbs). I also added mirin (1 tbs).
I simply dressed the blanched broccolini with  the mustard soy sauce and garnished with roasted white sesame seeds. I dressed the broccoli rabe with the walnut soy sauce and garnished with coarsely chopped toasted walnuts as shown below.

This is a nice small dish to start the evening. It is nice enough substitute for nanohana. The broccolini lacks the distinctive slightly bitter taste which is characteristic of "Nanohana" and broccoli rabe is closest to Nanohana.

Beef "Yakitori" 牛肉ステーキの焼き鳥

Spring is the best season in the Washington DC area. In addition to all the beautiful flowers and cool sunny weather there are no mosquitoes. This enables us to have a barbecue outside without become a meal ourselves for these pesky insects. During this mosquito free interlude we really enjoy sitting outside and doing “Yakitori” style cooking. This is one such occasion. We did not plan to do Yakitori but it was such a nice sunny day and when we checked the fridge we saw we had some ingredients that could be grilled so we did it on a whim. Instead of the usual chicken or pork, we grilled New York strip steak and also cooked mushrooms two ways.
We have this yakitori grill from Japan which was purchased from a New York company “Korin 光琳.  Given the ingredients I had, I knew I would not be grilling for a long time so I put just enough lump charcoal in the chimney starter to cover the bottom 1/3 of the grill (below left). Since it is still early spring, it gets a bit chilly when the sun goes down, so we wheeled out the infra-red outside heater which was very effective in keeping us warm and providing a golden ambient light while we cooked (below right).

Rather than grilling steak in usual way i.e. as one big piece, I trimmed the fat cap and cut it into cubes and skewered them (below, left). I seasoned it with salt and pepper. This was one American size serving of New York strip steak but perfect for two of us.

I also had a box of assorted shimeji (both white and brown) as well as Royal trumpet mushrooms). I cooked the shimeji mushroom with miso and butter with the addition of sliced onion in an aluminum foil pouch as before (below right).

I just tore the trumpet mushroom in half lengthwise, coated with olive oil, seasoned with salt and pepper and put on a skewer. I grilled the pouch of mushrooms in miso, steak cubes, and royal trumpet mushrooms. As you can see all the trees were pushing new-growth leaves (below, right upper).

Once the beef, royal trumpet mushrooms (above, left) and shimeji with miso and butter in a packet (above, right) were done all I needed to do was to make grilled rice balls (below). I used the leftover miso sauce on the bottom of the mushroom packet which worked very well. As I mentioned before, this is the best way to make the perfect grilled rice ball. All the surfaces had a nice savory crust. This can only be accomplished by slow patient cooking on a hot charcoal fire.

Japanese often grill beef in small pieces such as in “Yakiniku” 焼肉 or “Dice” steak or “Saikoro steak” さいころステーキ in which cubes of steak are grilled. What I made is a sort of hybrid between them. The cubes increase the ratio of caramelized surface crust to tender meat inside. I think this gives the meat more flavor and dimension than when it is cooked as one large piece. The cubes were small enough that we (at least I)  could use only chop sticks to eat them. Although this was US prime not “Wagyu”, this was quite good.

Spinach rolled in thin omelet ほうれん草の卵巻き

This is a small dish I made from the steamed spinach my wife made. She cooked the entire bag of spinach (pre-washed) using a dry wok with a lid without any liquid. We kept this in a sealed container and used it for many dishes such as this one.

This is a variation of nori rolled spinach but instead, of using nori I used a thin omelet.

Spinach: I just seasoned the steamed spinach with Japanese prepared hot mustard (from a tube) and sugar mixed in some soy sauce (the amount is arbitrary, I use only small amount of sugar).  If you want it spicier you could increase the mustard. I also mixed in bonito flakes but this is optional especially if you want to keep it vegetarian.

Omelet: I made the  mistake of not watching it carefully and the flame was too high so it became a bit dry and browned. I just used one egg omelet seasoned with a bit of sugar and salt. I put a non-stick frying pan on low flame ( not low enough, apparently) poured in the egg mixture, put the lid and let it slowly cook until done (5-7 minutes). If the flame is low enough, the omelet is perfectly yellow without brown spots.

I placed the omelet on the cutting board and lined up the spinach mixture in the middle and rolled it up. I then rolled it in plastic rap and let it stand for a few minutes so that the omelet would not unravel. I then cut the roll into small disks as you see above, Both ends which are not perfect were eaten before serving by me and my wife.

This is nothing dish but quite good.

Botargga pasta variation 唐墨パスタその２

This is just a variation of pasta with bottarga which I posted. Actually I used leftover grated botargga and angel hair pasta to make this dish. This is made in the same manner as "creamy tarako pasta".

I just sauteed the cooked angel hair past in olive oil to warm it up with small amount of red pepper flakes. After the pasta was coated with oil and warmed up, I added a few tablespoons of cream and let it cook for one minute or two so that it made nice sauce that could cling to the pasta. I cut the heat and mixed in grated botargga and garnished with thinly sliced botargga and nori strips.

The addition of cream add a different dimension to the pasta with bottarga. Both versions are good but I like the original a slight bit better.

Chicken "soboro" on rice ライスのそぼろのせ

This is the second dish I made from the chicken "soboro" I made a few days ago. This was a small ending dish one evening.

I just made three stripes over a dish of rice using the chicken soboro, spinach and scrambled egg. This is a variation of "bento" box.

Spinach: My wife prepared an entire package of baby spinach a few days ago. She just put the spinach in a dry wok (no water) with a lid on low heat. As the spinach steamed she used a tongs to move the cooked spinach on the bottom to the top. With this method the spinach steams by itself without adding any water. I chopped the cooked spinach coarsely, added dried bonito flakes (katsuo-bushi or kezuri-bushi, dried bonito shaving which come in a small plastic package) and concentrated noodle sauce (from the bottle). The amount is to taste but not too much.

Egg: I simply made scrambled eggs from one egg seasoned with sugar and salt.
Assembly: using, a ring mould as seen below, I first packed in a layer of white rice to make a disk and layered it with stripes of chicken soboro, spinach and scrambled egg.


This is very good flavor and color combination. You can make it any shape or amount you like. You can also change the seasoning such as sautéing the spinach in bacon grease and seasoning it with salt and pepper etc. Other greens such as asparagus, green beans will also work. If you want add another color, you could add cooked carrot seasoned whatever way you like.

This was a perfect "shime" ending dish for us.