Monday, August 19, 2019

"Nori" tsukuda-ni and natto 海苔の佃煮納豆

I saw this recipe in one of the food blogs I follow. It involves natto and "nori tsukuda-ni" 納豆と海苔の佃煮.   I am all for new recipes involving natto. So, I had to try this.

"Nori" 海苔 is several types of edible seaweed which are mostly aqua-cultured. If one hears "nori", most people think of a black sheet of paper-like dry product, which is an essential ingredient in making sushi especially rolled sushi. But fresh or salt-preserved "nori" is available in Japan and my favorite was its use in "fresh nori miso soup" なま海苔の味噌汁. Another popular "nori" product is "nori tsukuda-ni" 海苔の佃煮. When I was growing up (or even now), one particular "nori tuskudani" brand by "Momo-ya" 桃屋 called "Edo-murasaki" 江戸むらさき (meaning "Edo purple*") was most popular.  It was/is sold as a condiment for rice or "go-han" ごはん. As a kid, I did not like it since it tasted almost "chemical" to me. I've known for some time that I could get "nori tsukudani" at our Japanese grocery store but I did not even consider it until I read this recipe. I just had to try it. So, I got a jar, mixed it with natto and topped cold silken tofu with the mixture. For  "just-to-make-sure", I added a healthy dollop of the nori tsukudani on top as a garnish (shown as dark jelly like substance in the picture below).

*"Edo purple or Edo-murisake": Is the brand name for  "nori tsukuda-ni". It's made by cooking and reducing seaweed in mirin and soy sauce among other ingredients. Japanese refer to the color of soy sauce as "purple" which is also considered an auspicious or regal color. In certain situations, "murasaki" could mean "soy sauce". The method to make "tsukuda-ni" is said to have originated in "Tsukuda island" 佃島 which is located in Chuo ward 中央区 of current day Tokyo or Edo (the old name of Tokyo). In addition, Tokyo bay was (or may be "is") famous for cultivating "nori".  So, it is apt to name "nori tsukudani" as "Edo purple".


The below is a picture of the jar of  "nori tuskudani" I got. In addition to the brand name "Edo-murasaki", the package has an additional name; "Gohan-desuyo!" ごはんですよ!.  According to Japanese Wikipedia and the company website, this version was added to their usual product line-up  in 1972 (or 1973) . "Gohan-desuyo!" was added to the name to represent a variation from the original product (which they still produce) resulting in something that was not cooked as long and was more moist. This phrase could be translated as "Dinner is served! or YO! Chow-time!". "Gohan" literally means cooked rice but "cooked rice" is also equivalent  to "dinner" for Japanese. The label also states made with 100% domestic "nori" (in this case domestic must mean Japanese).


This appears to be an improved version from the one of my childhood. I tasted a bit before mixing it into the natto. It tasted better than I remembered. I am not sure if this is purely due to a change in my perception i.e. adult taste buds, or the changed and improved recipe mentioned in Wikipedia. I mixed it into the natto using my handy-dandy natto stirrer (shown here as white sticks). I also added finely chopped scallion. I did not add any soy sauce since "nori tsukudani" is salty.


This was pretty good but I am not sure this is particularly outstanding from the regular way of preparing natto. Or as my wife said, "It's edible but I wouldn't walk down the block to get seconds". Nonetheless this re-introduced me to "nori tuskudani". I may try it on freshly cooked white rice next time.

No comments: