Persimmon and “Kabu” turnip salad 柿と蕪のマリネ

This is a quick impromptu dish I made one evening. This dish came about since I had a small fresh Japanese “kabu 蕪” turnip from Suzuki Farm, and “Fuyu” persimmon 富有柿 from Weee. In addition, I had leftover “Kabosu miso カボスみそ”. So I made a quick marinated kabu and persimmon with added  wakame わかめ dressed in “Kabosu miso”. This was a refreshing small dish with interesting texture and flavor. The raw kabu turnip has a nice crunch with distinctive flavor (pungent in a good way) combined with the sweetness of persimmon in a dressing made of mixture of home-made sweet vinegar and olive oil. All worked well together. Although wakame is usually dressed with “Sumiso 酢味噌”, “Kabosu miso” worked as well or even better.

Ingredients (2 servings or 4 small servings like the one in the picture).
One small Japanese “kabu” turnip, top removed, skinned, halved and sliced thinly (depending on your preference; the thicker the crunchier)

One “Fuyu” persimmon, (firm one), peeled, halved and sliced similar to the “kabu”
1/2 tsp salt

Marinade/dressing:
1 tbs “amazu” sweet vinegar*
1 tbs extra virgin olive oil
salt and pepper to taste

*Amazu 甘酢: there are a few variation (see “daikon namasu” section of Norio’s New year dishes”). The one I had was made some time ago and kept in a jar. It was made of equal parts rice vinegar and water as well as sugar equal to half the amount of vinegar used and a pinch of salt.

Directions
Add the salt to the kabu, knead and let stand for 5 minutes and squeeze out any excess moisture.
In a small bowl, add the kabu and persimmon. Add the dressing and mix.
Refrigerate for 5 minutes before serving.

Because of the acidity in the dish, sake is the libation of choice.

Crispy Cheese Rice Puffs チーズライスパフ

I am not sure how my wife decided to make this. (Note from wifey: I decided to make this particular dish because by mistake we bought a box of rice krispies to make rice krispies treats at Christmas - for nostalgic reasons; they were one of my favorites as a kid - that was humongous. It had much more rice krispies than were needed for the treats. So, I was looking for other recipes to use up some of the excess.) (Note from Hubbie: Oh! I never had a rice Krispies treat before.) In any case, using the rice krispies cereal, she came up with this dish which is more suitable for a snack with a drink of wine than a dessert. The original recipe was called “crispy cheese wafers” came from Southern Living website. She made two versions; one using a muffin tin (left in picture #1) and the other flattened into a cookie or wafer-shape (right in picture #1).  This is a nice cheesy bite. She warmed them up in the toaster oven which made them crispy and warm. I ask my wife to contenue.

Ingredients:
2 cups (8 ounces) freshly grated extra-sharp cheddar cheese (I used a combination of smoked gouda, sharp cheddar and parmesan cheese
1/2 cup butter, at room temperature
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp. ground cayenne pepper or to taste
2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
1/2 tsp. salt
1 cup crisp rice cereal

Directions
Mix together the cheeses, butter, flour, red pepper, Worcestershire and salt in a large bowl until mixture forms a ball that lightly sticks together and pulls in all the flour. (Hands worked best for this). Gently fold the rice cereal into the dough. Shape mixture into 1-inch balls using medium sized ice cream scoop. The original recipe called for placing the balls about 1 inch apart on a baking sheet and flattening each ball with a fork, making a crisscross pattern. I made several like that (#2) but I was afraid they would fall apart when cooked so I made some in mini cup cake tins lined with paper cups. I gently pushed the dough into the cups with my fingers (#3) Bake in a 350 degree oven for 15 minutes or until firm. Cool on pan on wire rack.

These made very satisfying savory bites. As you can see from the pictures the ones made free standing on the cookie sheet did not fall apart when cooked. They just spread out. The krispies in the dough formed a nice light crunchy crust and the interior texture was very tender and tasted richly cheesy. These got much better with time as the flavors melded together. They also toasted up nicely in the toaster oven.

Valentine’s day cake バレンタインデイケーキ

Although my wife has previously made this cake, Ricotta-filled Valentine's day "Wacky" cake, some years ago for Valentine’s day, this year she wanted to make the same cake in small individual bite-sized heart-shapes. Problem was we didn’t have any heart shaped pans that were small enough. This led to an internet search which resulted in the purchase of two red silicone heart shaped muffin sheets. Although my wife only filled the muffin cups half full the little cakes rose above the edge of the cups and came out looking round like the one in picture #1 with the cherry on top. The bottoms of the cakes appeared heart shaped as shown by the upside down one on the left in the pic. Bummer! If they were going to come out looking round we didn’t need to buy heart shaped “tins”. Our existing mini muffin tins would have done the trick. Nonetheless, regardless of their shape, they tasted very good. 

Ingredients:
For the cake
1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
1 tsp baking soda
1/4 tsp salt
1 cup sugar
1/3 cup cocoa powder
1 tsp. vanilla
1 tbs. vinegar
1/3 cup oil
1 cup water

For the ricotta filling
1 cup ricotta cheese
1 egg
1/8 cup sugar
1/4 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp vanilla

Directions:
Mix all the ingredients for the ricotta filling until smooth and set aside. Mix the dry ingredients from the flour thru the cocoa powder in a bowl. Mix the wet ingredients in another bowl. Add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients until smooth. Fill the heart shaped “tins” with the cake mixture and top them with a scoop of the ricotta filling and half a maraschino cherry (#2). (Nicely heart-shaped). Cook at 350 degrees for about 20 minutes until the ricotta topping firms up and a skewer comes out clean. (My wife noticed that the silicone pan did not conduct heat the same way a metal muffin tins would so it took about 10 minutes longer for the cakes to cook.)

Although the final product was not heart-shaped these little cakes were a perfect bite-sized treat to celebrate the end of the Valentine’s dinner. PA Dutch Wacky cake topped with ricotta cheese icing is a Valentine’s Day classic (at least for us).

Valentine‘s day sashimi dinner バレンタインデイ刺身ディナー

As Valentine’s day approached this year, I asked my wife what we should have to celebrate the day. She suggested a Japanese dinner of sashimi, 刺身 chawanmushi 茶碗蒸し, salmon kelp roll 鮭の昆布巻きwith crispy salmon skin and sake (of course). She thought this was a highly appropriate menu since our first dinner/date many, many years ago was on Valentine’s day. On that occasion we went to a Japanese restaurant called “Azuma” in Cupertino. It appears Azuma is still in business at the same spot. 

Our on-line source of sashimi fish has changed during the years; some places went out of business or we found better places. Our most recent source of sashimi is “Yama Seafood” in New York. We recently got frozen sashimi fish from them. They have a few items which are not available elsewhere. One of them is called “Hagashi maguro*” はがしまぐろ or peeled tuna which we have not tried before. I thought this was the perfect tuna portion to make tuna shaped as a rose; appropriate for Valentine’s day. Other sashimi items from our freezer (from different sources) included “ankimo あん肝” monk fish liver, Hotate ホタテscallops and “uni shuto うに酒盗” preserved sea urchin.

*”hagashi 剥がし” is an adjective from the verb hagashu 剥がす ” which means to remove/strip/peel.  So “Hagashi tuna” means “peeled layers of tuna”.  This process was developed since some portions of fatty tuna or “ootoro 大トロ” can be very sinewy, making it unedibly chewy, which we don’t like. Although the sinew can be made more tolerable by making multiple shallow-cuts across the plane of the sinew the ultimate remedy is to remove the sinew by slicing along the white sinew lines and gently separating out the meat layer by layer. The result is an exceptionally smooth, soft, and melt-in-your-mouth textured tuna meat without any sinew; “Hagashi Maguro” or peeled tuna.

In the picture, the center is the tuna rose. The “hagashi” comes in rather thin layers characteristic of the layers between the sinew which are perfect for making a rose. This is done by cutting the layer lengthwise to the height of the rose, then slicing the layer perpendicularly into pieces about one inch long then laying the pieces with the edges overlapping slightly and rolled up to make a rose. I surrounded the rose with sliced cucumber and drizzled “sumiso 酢味噌” over it all. The upper center is three medallions of ankimo, Ten and 4 o’clock positions are scallops which I sliced horizontally in three layers (we like thin layers of scallops as sashimi) placed on a slice of lemon (Meyer lemon). In the 7 o’clock position, is “uni shuto うに酒盗” on a cucumber boat. I added yuzu kosho and wasabi on the bottom.

I served this sashimi platter with three sauces. One was mango chutney soy sauce specifically for the ankimo. The other two were ponzu and sashimi soy sauce.

The hagashi was not as fatty as I expected but was still quite good; much better than if it still had the sinew. The ankimo went very well with the mango chutney sauce but also went well with the ponzu sauce. The scallops were good with either wasabi or yuzu kosho. This was a very satisfying and filling sashimi plate.  (This sashimi plate was a bit better than the one we had in Azuma if I remember correctly.)

Fried “Renkon” Lotus Root with “Aonori” dried seaweed (laver) レンコンの磯辺揚げ

In the past, we could not get fresh “renkon レンコン” lotus root. We could only get packaged boiled renkon. Occasionally we got fresh renkon from our Japanese grocery store or Hmart (through Instacart). We are now getting fresh renkon any time we want from Weee.

Although renkon is called “lotus root” and written in the Japanese kanji ideogram “蓮根” meaning “lotus root”,  renkon is actually the “stem” not the root of the plant. I have posted quite a few renkon dishes in the past. When I receive fresh lotus root, I separate the segments, clean and dry the surface, wrap the individual segments in paper towel, vacuum pack, and refrigerate. With this preparation the renkon will last at least a few weeks or more. But sometimes I become complacent and let them sit in the refrigerator too long and the vacuum packed renkon goes bad. This time, I wanted to make sure I used up the renkon in time. So using the longest segment we got with this batch, I immediately made two renkon dishes, this is one of them. 

This is a variation of fried renkon chips made with onori 青海苔” called isobe-age*.  I got the inspiration for this dish from e-recipe website. I made a batter of cake flour, water and Japanese aonori. I shallow fried it and served it with kosher salt. This is a perfect small appetizer with the lovely salty briny smell and taste of aonori and the crunch of renkon.

* Aonori is dried seaweed also known as green laver.  When it is used in a dish the name of the dish includes the word “Isobe 磯部” (meaning “rocky beach”). This is because the briny smell of the aonori is reminiscent of the briny ocean smell characteristic of the rocky beach where it grows. So this dish I made is called “Isobe a-ge 磯辺揚げ” (or literally rocky beach fry).

This is not a recipe per se but a note to myself.

Ingredients:
3 inch long segment of fresh renkon, peeled and parboiled (for 3-4 minutes). This will prevent the renkon from breaking into fragments when sliced. 

Batter:
3 tbs. cake flour
1 tbs. dried “aonori” flakes
4 tbs. water (I used cold water from the refrigerator. The amount of water is just enough to make a pancake batter consistency).

Vegetable oil (enough to cover the frying pan bottom about 1/2 inch deep) for frying.

Directions:
Cut the renkon lengthwise in half, slice 1/4 inch thick crosswise to make half-moon shaped pieces.
Add the renkon slices to the batter to coat.
Add the oil to a frying pan on medium flame.
Make sure the oil is hot (test by dropping a small amount of batter into the oil. It should start sizzling immediately).
Add the renkon and fry for 4-5 minutes until slightly brown, turn it over and cook for a few more minutes.
Place the fried pieces on a paper towel lined plate and sprinkle on some salt.
Serve immediately.

These heat up well in the toaster oven—they actually got crisper. 

You can have variations of this dish. You can fry the renkon pieces as is for renkon chips, or dusted with flour, or regular tempura batter. By add a leavening agents (baking soda, baking powder) and/or beer instead of water to make the batter the fired renkon becomes a renkon fritter.

Salted “Kabocha” 塩かぼちゃ

The quality of “Kabocha かぼちゃ” Japanese pumpkin/squash” from Weee is excellent. In the past, the quality of kabocha we bought from other places was hit-or-miss. Sometimes, the texture was watery and did not have the dense texture or “hoku-hoku ほくほく” or sweet taste characteristic of good kabocha. In any case, instead of making the usual simmered kabocha, I made this “salted kabocha 塩かぼちゃ” using a kabocha we got recently from Weee. After checking recipes on-line, I used one of simplest ones I saw on Youtube. This was dubbed: “even watery kabocha turnes out sweet and “hoku-hoku”. Turned out the recipe was correct; I am impressed. Even without the addition of any sugar the dish was sweet with a subtle salty taste and nice dense texture (#1). 

Ingredients:
1/4 kabocha, skin mostly removed by shaving it off using a heavy knife, cut into half inch cubes
1 tsp salt

Directions:
Add the kabocha and salt in a bowl and coat the surface. Let it sit for several hours or overnight in the refrigerator until some water accumulates in the bottom of the bowl
Add the kabocha and accumulated water into a pan which snuggly accommodates the kabocha. cubes (I used a frying pan with a high rim)
Cover with a tight lid and on low flame cook until the kabocha is tender when tested with a fork (about 15 minutes)
Check occasionally and if needed add a small mount of water (I added 1 tbs of water after10 minutes)
After it finished cooking only a very small amount of water was left in the bottom of the pan. when cooled all liquid was reabsorbed into the squash (picture #2)

This is an excellent and simple way to cook kabocha. 

Custardy Apple Cake カスタードアップルケーキ

This is one of my wife’s baking projects. This recipe appeared as “Dori Greenspan’s Custardy Apple Squares” in Washington Post which drew my wife’s  attention. Since we get nice large Washington state Fiji” apples from Weee, this recipe appeared perfect to try. I helped by preparing the apple. This is very good. The layers of apple slices with custard in between (picture #1) is very refreshing and not too sweet. Perfect dessert for us not serous dessert eaters.

Ingredients: 
2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted butter, melted and cooled, plus more softened butter for the pan
3 medium juicy, sweet apples, such as Gala or Fuji, peeled (1 pound/454 grams total)
Generous 1/2 cups (68 grams) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1/3 cups (67 grams) granulated sugar
1 pinch fine salt
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
6 tablespoons whole milk, at room temperature
Confectioners' sugar, for dusting (optional)

Directions
Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 400 degrees. Grease an 8-inch square baking pan with a little butter.

Slice the apples from top to bottom using a mandoline, Benriner or sharp knife, turning the fruit 90 degrees each time you reach the core. The slices should be about 1/16 inch thick -- elegantly thin, but not so thin that they’re transparent and fragile. (If they’re a little thicker, that’ll be fine, too.) Discard or compost the cores.

In a small bowl, whisk together the flour and baking powder until combined.

In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar and salt until the sugar has just about dissolved and, more importantly, until the eggs are pale, about 2 minutes. Whisk in the vanilla extract, then the milk and the melted, cooled butter. Add to the flour mixture and whisk to form a smooth batter.

Add the apples to the bowl, switch to a flexible spatula and gently fold in the apples, turning the mixture until each thin slice is coated in the batter. (I used my hand to individually coat each slice with the mixture). Scrape the mixture into the pan, smoothing the top as evenly as you can. It will be bumpy; that’s its nature.

Bake for 40 to 50 minutes, or until golden brown and puffed — make sure the middle of the cake has risen — and a knife inserted into the center comes out clean. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool for at least 15 minutes or completely. (I cooked this in the toaster oven and it took about 35 minutes.

Variations
You can add a couple of tablespoons of dark rum, calvados, applejack or armagnac or a drop (really, just a drop) of pure almond extract to the batter. If you have an orange or a lemon handy, you can grate the zest over the sugar and rub the ingredients together until they’re fragrant. You can also change the fruit. Pears are perfect, and a combination of apples and pears is even better. Or make the cake with 2 firm mangoes — the texture will be different but still good — or very thinly sliced quinces. Finally, if you want to make this look a little dressier, you can warm some apple jelly in a microwave and use a pastry brush to spread a thin layer of it over the top.

Appetizers; one with Shad Roe 酒のつまみ

Those are two sets of appetizers I made on different evening. One unusual one is a variation of the nagaimo-tarako gellee 長芋とたらこのジェル寄せ. Instead of “tarako” cod roe, I used shad roe since it was in the freezer and getting old. I made several dishes from shad roe including American classic of cooked with bacon.  In the picture #1, from left to right; 1. nagaimo-shad roe gelee 長芋とシャドロウのジェル寄せ, 2. Wakame and cucumber in miso dressing 和布と胡瓜の酢味噌あえ, 3. picked herring (from a jar) topped with yogurt dip, 4. daikon “namasu”  in sweet vinegar 大根なます, and 5. daikon kimpira 大根の金平.

Nothing particulary new but two may deserve some notes:

1. Nagaimo-shad roe gelee: 
Japanese tarako is slat marinated but not cooked. I used tarako without further cooking for this dish. 
Since Shad roe is not slated or cooked, i modified my recipe. I first removed the roe from the sacs and  marinated in  the equal mixture of x4 concentrated Japanese noodle soup and mirin for several hours in the refrigerator (good amount of the marinade get absorbed). 
After draining the excess marinade, I cooked the roe in the frying pan with melted butter in low heat until the color changes (or cooked). Let it cooled down and use it like tarako. 

I used 1 cup of Japanese broth with 3/4 envelope of unflavored gelatin. Seasoned with splashes of dark sesame oil and tabasco or sriracha. For the nagaimo layer,  I seasoned with small amount of sushi vinegar.

2. Daikon Kimpira:
I had the last of a good daikon from Suzuki Farm. I peeled (a bit thickly) and cooked with a pinch of raw rice grains (which can be used in simmered dishes such as oden. I cut the peels with skin in match stick and made kimpira with daikon green (from daikon from Weee we just got) and fried “abura-age” tofu.

In the picture #2, i served the nagaimo-shad roe gelee (top center), kelp salmon roll 鮭の昆布巻き (left lower) and salmon nanban 鮭の南蛮漬け (right lower). 

Cranberry sauce muffins クランベリーソースマフィン

We gave up some time ago on having turkey for Thanksgiving. (My wife described the turkey as a “stuffing delivery system”.) So we decided to just have the stuffing and skip the delivery system. Even though we don’t have turkey I still make “Figgy Cranberry Sauce”. It actually goes very well with other meats such as the roasted duck breast we had this year. Now after Thanksgiving, we noticed many recipes using left-over thanksgiving food started appearing on the internet. My wife found one such recipe for muffins using cranberry sauce. Although she found several recipes she settled on this particular one which was among the most straight forward. This muffin turned out to be very good.

Recipe came from Allrecipes.

Ingredients
2 cups all-purpose flour
½ cup packed brown sugar
¼ cup white sugar
1 tablespoon baking powder
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground cardamom
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup leftover cranberry sauce*
¾ cup milk
¼ cup vegetable oil
1 large egg, slightly beaten
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

*Ingredients and directions for the figgy cranberry sauce is below.

Directions
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a muffin tray’s cups with paper liners. Beat the cranberry sauce, milk, oil, egg, and vanilla together in a bowl until well combined. Whisk the flour, brown sugar, white sugar, baking powder, cinnamon, cardamom, and salt together in a separate bowl. Stir the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients until the batter is just moistened. Pour into the prepared muffin cups.
Bake in the preheated oven until golden brown, about 20 minutes.

To make the figgy cranberry sauce: 

Ingredients:
Frozen or fresh cranberries (12oz bag) (Do not thaw if you are using frozen).
Dried figs, coarsely chopped (1 cup)
Sugar 1/2 cup
White wine 3/4 cup
Orange peel, 2 long strips without pith
Salt, a pinch
Orange flavored liquor (I used triple sec), 2 tbs

Directions:
1. Soak the figs in hot water for 20 minutes.
2. In a sauce pan, add the wine and sugar on medium flame. Once it starts to boil reduce the heat and mix to dissolve the sugar.
3.Add, the cranberries, drained figs, orange peel and cook for 10 -15 minutes stirring occasionally until the sauce thickens.
4. Cut the flame and add a pinch of salt and the orange liquor and mix.

These muffins were quite good. They don’t taste of cranberries per se; the added spices are the predominant flavors. The cranberry sauce does however provide a small crunch element from the very small seeds either in the cranberries or the figs which is a nice unexpected addition to the texture. Also, since I did not remove the orange peel I used in the sauce it appeared as a surprise burst of orange flavor in random bites of the muffins.

Warm sake on a cold night 寒夜の燗酒

At the end of January, it was brutally cold due to an Arctic vortex which swept over the continent. Lows were in the single digits, wind chills in the negative range and daily highs never got above freezing for many days. In addition, there was a winter storm that produced a significant snow accumulation. The snow was then coated with sleet and freezing rain becoming a solid block of ice which stayed for days due to the Arctic weather.

This was a perfect time to have hot pot “nabe 鍋” dishes and “kanzake 燗酒” warm sake. One day, we had “Ishikari-nabe 石狩鍋” with our favorite warm sake (Tengumai yamahai-jikomi junmai 天狗舞山廃仕込純米). Another night,  we had a special sake “Kiku-masamune junmai taruzake 菊正宗純米樽酒” warm. This is the sake we had when we visited an Izakaya in Tokyo called “Fukube ふくべ”. They had a large wooded cask or “taru 樽” of Kiku-masamune. We had it at room temperature but later we learned that the regulars have this “nuru-kan ぬる燗” or warmed even in summer. Taking heed of what we learned at the Izakayae in Tokyo, we took out our handy-dandy electric sake warmer (Picture #2) and enjoyed it warm as recommended. This sake is quite a character; its flavor changes based on the temperature at which it is served. When served warm the cedar flavor characteristic of its cooler state becomes a bit muted and integrates more subtly into the base taste of the sake.

No sake, no matter how good, can shine at its best if not accompanied by a some tasty small dishes. I served this sake with some “tsumami つまみ” appetizers. None of them were new to our repertoire but served the purpose well. Since we got “hoshigaki 干し柿” dried persimmon from Japanese taste, I made “daikon namasu 大根なます” and topped it with dried persimmon (lower right). Others included “Russian marinated salmon 鮭のロシア漬け” (upper left), pickled herring (from a jar) with sour cream dill sauce (upper middle), salmon kelp roll 鮭の昆布巻き and spicy tofu ピリ辛豆腐 (lower left).

Historic note: Placing sake in a Japanese cedar “taru” cask may have started before pasteurization. It was done to preserve sake as well as cover up unwanted flavors which may have developed in unpasteurized and non-refrigerated sake. In modern times, due to refrigeration, there is no need to place sake in a cedar cask but people developed a taste for the distinctive cedar aroma/flavor. This is a situation similar to the Greek wine “Retsina” which was flavored with the pine resin used to seal the amphora in which it was stored. Now even though those type of amphora are no longer needed, pine resin flavor is added to the wine.

In any case, this sake comes in a blue tinted bottle shaped like a traditional “tokkuri とっくり” which was used to buy/store/carry sake or other liquids in the old days. The rope on the neck of the bottle is for easy carrying or (in the old days) securing the tokkuri bottle to your sash (for handy access to a drink). One other sake we like served warm “Gekkeikan 月桂冠Black and Gold” also comes in a similarly shaped bottle.

For heating and maintaining the warm sake, we have been using the electric sake warmer shown in picture #2 for some time. It is a “must have” even if you drink warm sake only occasionally. I sure beats the old fashioned methods we used to use such as partially immersing the sake filled container in hot water or microwaving it. This little warmer heats up and maintains the sake at the specified temperature—no fuss no muss.

Although we have not tried many sakes warm, our rankings are #1 Tengumai Junmai, #2. Kiku-masamune Junmai Taruzake and #3 Gekkeikan Junmai “Black and Gold”.