Izakaya in Kanazawa 金沢の居酒屋

We have visited Kanazawa 金沢 on a number of our trips to Japan.  This time, we stayed in Kanazawa only one night. As a result, we went to only one Izakaya but this was a very special one. We usually stay in the hotels near Kanazawa Station 金沢駅 but this time, we stayed at a hotel near “Oomi market 近江市場”.  We visited Oomi market in the afternoon after we arrived and had a late lunch. Not all but some stores were open. We looked into many restaurants/izakaya in the Oomi merket, but many looked like tourist traps.

1. Shukou Yuunagi 酒肴夕凪

I looked into finding an izakaya where we could go in the evening. So many places popped up within easy walking distance of our hotel in Google map search. Using my usual criteria of menu, review, pictures available on line, I chose this place. I quickly called and made the reservation for the evening. Although it was very close to our hotel, I misread the Google map and turned into the first alley way when I should have turned into the second alley. In any case, I called and the person who answered the phone helped us get to the right place.

The place was almost full. It is run by a single owner with a young helper. Initially, we interacted with the young helper. when I asked him to recommend a sake, he consulted with the owner and asked what kind of sake we usual drank so I said we like diaginjo style; a clean and fruity sake. He brought out Kokuryu Daiginjo Fuku 黒龍大吟醸　福  (#1) which was fruity and clean tasting. Since I saw a bottle of  Tengumai Junnmai Yamahai-shikomi 天狗舞純米山廃止込 on the shelf, I ordered it. (Despite the fact we usually  prefer “Daiginjo  Tengumai”, which is actually our “house sake”). We have tasted and posted about Yamahai Tengumai sake. We like this sake served warm at home. This was served at room temperature. This order appeared to draw the attention of the owner. (Initially we had a difficult time engaging the proprietor directly which left us dealing mostly with the young helper. We ordered several special sakes and it turned out the bottles only contained a partial serving which the helper served us anyway. (It is our understanding we were not charged for these partial servings.) Eventually after these various orders, the proprietor realized we liked and knew sake and he warmed up; personally taking care of us suggesting various unique sake varieties.

Meanwhile we had couple of nice dishes including sashimi and an extremely good smoked oyster in olive oil (#5). (The taste of this dish was special; unique and very memorable. We have never experienced this combination of flavors and textures before. ) When I asked for other recommended sake, the owner himself brought out the next sake saying “if you could handle Yamahai Tengumai, you might like to try this.” The sake he bought was an aged sake or “koshu 古酒” called “Takesuzume Yamahai Junnmai BY28 竹雀山廃止純米酒　BY28 (#3). “BY” is brewery year. BY28 means it was brewed in “Heisei 28 平成28年” which is 2019 so it had been aged for 6 years. I assume this was cold aged since the color was still light. Although we usually do not prefer “aged sake”, this was quite a sake with almost sherry-like but clean taste which went perfectly with the smoked oyster (#5). He served “Yoshida-kura u Ishikawamon 吉田蔵 u Ishikawamon” (#4) which is made from a rare sake rice from Ishikawa prefecture 石川県 called “Ishikawamon 石川門”. This one was much fresher tasting than the previous aged one. Although I learned later this was supposedly  “slightly effervescent”, we did not feel that.

By far, this was one of the best Izakaya experiences with interesting sake and food. The customers appear to be all locals. It would have been difficult for tourists (like us) to find and fully enjoy this place. Next time we vist Kanazawa, we will try this izakaya again.

Matcha Almond Pancake (again) 抹茶アーモンドパンケーキ

Having just come back from Japan, when we saw this recipe for matcha green tea pancakes on the Washington Post web site the word matcha caught our attention and we decided it was a “must-make” for breakfast recipe. But as I was writing this up, I happened to search our blog and found out we had already made these and posted this exact recipe 2 years ago. It turns out this was just another one of the green pancakes collection we had previously presented.  Apparently, WP posted the exact same recipe used 2 years ago again and we did not realize it. In any case, this was a pretty good pancake. We definitely tasted matcha green tea flavor.  As before my wife made the batter and I cooked the pancakes using 4 small non-stick frying pans (picture #2).

Ingredients: (we doubled the recipe this time making 7 pancakes, picture #3, two were already served)
1cup whole-wheat pastry flour or all-purpose flour
1 cup almond flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoon matcha
2 cup buttermilk
2 large egg
2 tablespoon neutral oil
4 teaspoons vanilla extract

Butter and Maple syrup, for serving

Directions:
In a medium bowl, thoroughly whisk together the pastry flour, almond flour, baking powder and salt until combined. Sift the matcha into the mixture and whisk again to thoroughly combine.

In another medium bowl, whisk together the milk, egg, oil and vanilla until combined. Add the milk mixture to the flour mixture and stir just to combine. Do not overmix; it’s okay if there are some small lumps. Let the batter hydrate for 5 to 10 minutes.

Heat a large nonstick skillet or griddle over medium-high heat until hot. (To test, drop a dime-size amount of batter into the skillet and if it starts to bubble and brown right away, the pan is ready.)

Ladle the batter into the skillet. Cook until bubbles form on the top and the underside is nicely browned, about 2 minutes (#2), then flip and cook until browned on the other side, and cooked through, 2 minutes more (#3). Adjust the heat as necessary to prevent the pancakes from browning too fast before they’re cooked through. Serve with maple syrup. 

Tokyo Kyobashi Areas Izakayas (part 4) 東京の居酒屋 東京駅八重洲京橋付近 パート4

7. Wasabi Tokyo Station Yaesu Branch 和菜美東京駅八重洲店　

東京都中央区八重洲1-7-17 八重洲ロータリービルB1

Yaesu Rotary Bldg. B1

Yaesu 1-7-17, Chuo-ku

Tokyo

For reservation: 03-4405-1480, Credit card accepted, smoking allowed

This is another large chain izakaya. Later we learned that the holding company is called NBM which also runs several other chains. I called for a reservation one day ahead. This is a bit like  ”The restaurant with many orders/conditions 注文の多い料理屋” by Kenji Miyazawa 宮沢賢治. When I called, a man answered. I asked a table for two, date and time.  He said “A table is available” and “Are you taking a course menu?”. I said “No”. He sounded disappointed and said, “You have a table for 2 hours and minimum orders of one drink and two dishes per customer are required”. I said “okay” and thus we got a table for two for two hours.

The place was located in the basement floor of a building just across from Yaesu-guchi 八重洲口 of Tokyo station. Going down the steps triggered a chime and a man appeared. He ushered us to a small table. Although this place advertised “all private rooms”, this was a table with an opaque fabric partition on one side through which we can sort of see the next table/room. The other side was a Japanese style sliding door which was very close to the table. We got to the table by opening the sliding door. The guy repeated the conditions with which we could have our table for 2 hours. We ordered sake and several dishes (see below) immediately fulfilling their strict conditions we agreed on.

As we were  waiting for our orders to come, a large group of people came into the room/table across the aisle. The same server was taking care of this party. In a very loud voice (shout), he started outlining the precise conditions and rules for the “all-you-can-drink” deal. This was indeed “the restaurant with many conditions”.

Shortly, our orders started arriving. The assorted sashimi (#1) was decent but again the “Tai” perch was on the chewy side. One interesting item was fried fava beans (#2). Boiled or grilled (in pods) fava beans are common but fried was new to us. They were very good. We also ordered “crab cream croquets カニクリームコロッケ” which were excellent. Finally we had a dish of  “branded” chicken thigh (a special brand of chicken unique to the regional area) with french fries”. The french fries were clearly previously frozen and the chicken did not taste any different from any other chicken we have eaten but over all it was good.

We ordered more sake and some more dishes. Despite our initial misgivings, we had a good time here. Later we learned they have a store even in Sapporo (the last destination of our Japan trip). But we learned this only after we got back from Japan.

8. Fukube ふくべ*

東京都中央区八重洲1−4−5

Yaesu 1-4-5, Chuo-Ku, Tokyo

For reservation 03-3271-6065, credit card not accepted, smoking allowed

Without realizing it, we stumbled into a genuine Izakaya of Showa 昭和** era. This izakaya was first opened 75 years ago with a period of closure due to the world war II and reopened 60 years ago. I made the obligatory reservation the same day. The first floor was small with only a L-shaped counter. One wall in front of  the counter had tall shelves with many large bottles of sake on display. Although the counter was all crowded with “salary” men, we sat at the very end of the counter (thanks to the reservation). The stools were very closely placed (cozy).  There is a second floor which appears to be for larger parties but some people who came in after us were sent upstairs.

There was a stack of two sake barrels in front of us and the sake recommendation was “Kiku-masamune Taruzake 菊正宗樽酒”. We ordered it. The guy behind the counter removed the wooden bung from the front of the large sake cask and poured sake into a large copper funnel with an “ochoushi お銚子” sake serving bottle underneath. A  “Ichigo-masu*** 一合升”  was located in the bottom  the funnel. Then, the sake in the “masu” Japanese wooden measuring cup was poured into the ochoshi and served. They had only “ichigo” size ochoshi sake serving bottles. (so if you order 2-go, you get two ochoshi bottles). The taruzake had a cidarly flavor as expected. Not our favorite but in this atmosphere, this was really enjoyable. They served other sakes either at room temperature or warmed. We had a few more sakes. The food menu was very small and simple. We got grilled tarako cod roe, tuna sashimi and others. The dishes were  not fancy but perfect for this place. The salary men around us were enjoying themselves and some were getting quite drunk. This was quite a genuine izakaya experience.

*”Fukube 瓢” is a traditional Japanese vessel made of hollowed out “hyou-tan gourd 瓢箪”  used to store and carry liquid especially sake.

**Reign of Showa emperor 1926-1989. I am firmly from this period since I was born and grew up in the showa period.

*** “Masu 升” is a traditional square wooden measuring cup. “Ichigo 1合” is about 180ml.

Lemon Crumb Bar レモンクラムバー

One day, my wife announced she was going to make this lemon cream bar from a recipe she saw on line. She had purchased a similar item from Whole Food and thought she would try making a similar one herself. In any case, the end product was a nice crunchy, sweet candy bar like cookie thing. We did not taste any strong lemon flavor despite using the juice and zest of one lemon as called for in the recipe.

Ingredients:
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter
3/4 cup packed dark brown sugar
3/4 teaspoon baking powder
3/4 teaspoon salt (1/2 tsp in dry ingredients, 1/4 tsp in the sweetened condensed milk). 
1 1/4 cups old-fashioned rolled or quick-cooking oats
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 or 2 lemons
1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk
1 1/2 tsp vanilla

Directions:
Arrange a rack in the middle of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Line the bottom and sides of an 8x10-inch baking pan with 2 sheets of parchment paper, positioning them perpendicular to each other and making sure they are long enough to hang over all four sides by at least 1 inch to form a sling. Toast the oats in the toaster oven until brown and fragrant. Set aside until cooled. Cut 1 stick unsalted butter into 8 pieces and melt. Add the vanilla to the melted butter. Add 3/4 cup packed brown sugar in the butter and stir to melt the sugar. Put 1 cup AP flour and the 1 1/4 toasted oats in a bowl. Add 3/4 teaspoon baking powder, and 1/2 teaspoon of the kosher salt. Add the butter mixture to the flour mixture and stir with a flexible spatula until no dry spots remain. Reserve 1 cup of the mixture for topping.

Transfer the remaining crumble mixture into the baking pan. Pat into an even layer. Bake until fragrant and lightly browned, 12 to 14 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare the lemon filling. Finely grate the zest of  1 or 2 lemons (about 2 tablespoons) into the bowl. Juice the zested lemons until you have 1/2 cup, then add to the bowl. Add 1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk and the remaining 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, and whisk until smooth.

Pour the filling over the hot crust. Sprinkle the reserved crumble mixture evenly over the filling. Return the baking pan to the oven and bake until the edges are lightly browned and set, 22 to 24 minutes. Place the pan on a wire rack and let cool completely, about 1 1/2 hours. If the filling is softer than desired, refrigerate for 30 minutes once completely cooled to firm up. Grasping the excess parchment paper, lift the slab out of the pan and place on a cutting board. Cut into 12 pieces.

This is nice, sweet and crunchy almost like a cookie. The toasted oats gave it a nutty aftertaste. The evaporated milk became slightly solid and added a pleasant creamy texture and taste. We didn’t notice much lemon flavor, however. This definitely satisfies the sweet tooth.

Tokyo Kyobashi Areas Izakayas (part 3) 東京の居酒屋 東京駅八重洲京橋付近 パート3

5. Sake Ryoma 酒龍馬

東京都中央区京橋2丁目7−15鈴木ビル

Suzuki-bldg.
Kyobashi 2-7-15
Chuo-Ku, Tokyo

For reservation 03-3564-1171, Credit card: Accepted, Probably no smoking

This place was not as expected from my information gathering. The female owner has a vast collection of rare and cult class sake. We made our reservation one day ahead. This is a small place with only counter seating which may accommodate 8-10 people. There is a small table in the front but it appeared to be used only as a place for customers to sit and wait for counter space to open up. When we got there 4 people (apparently all regulars) were already seated on either side of our seats. They appeared to be deep into their own conversations. Then we were presented with a tray full of small dishes (12 as shown in the picture). We thought we were supposed take one or two as “Otoshi” but “No”, all of them were ours. To our surprise the tray was the full meal already organized and presented for our enjoyment. (No ordering from a menu necessary). Luckily all the dishes were quire good and it was not any trouble “cleaning the plate”.

They also have many cult sakes including many varieties of “Ju-yondai 十四代” and “Ji-Kon 而今” alike. We had two kinds of “Juyondai” sake. At this point, the initial stiffness had worn off and we were interacting with the young staff. Then the mama (owner) started talking to the customers who sat to the right of us introducing various rare sakes to them. She poured them a glass which they tasted then all of sudden, the guy in a suit sitting sat next to me excitedly started talking to me about how good the sake was and offering us a taste of the rare sake they were having. It was exceptionally good. Then as if all communication barriers came down at once the two men sitting on the other side of us joined in the conversation. All four, 2 seated to the left and 2 to the right of us started talking to us and each other.  Apparently they knew each other and all were sake connoisseurs. The group to our right were actually certified sake sommelier and started offering us tastes of various rare sakes, which the group to the left countered with tastes of the rare sakes they liked best. It was almost like they were in competition with each other in their sake offerings. So when they learned we liked sake too and would not be turning down any other their offers we found ourselves drinking all these rare sakes amidst fairly animated conversation. They even gave me their business cards. In any case, at the end, we are not sure how checks were handled but ours was high (as compared to other izakayas we visited) thus far but not unreasonable considering all the cult sake we drank.  It appears the bill for most of the rare sake we tasted went to these regulars. Although we did not ask for it, the receipt (a formal one which can be used to get reimbursement for business expenses) was included suggesting they thought we were there on business and like many of their customers needed the receipt to have the expense of the meal reimbursed.  

6. Kyo-Sushi 京寿司

東京都京橋2丁目2−1 エドグランド1F

Edogrand 1F
Kyobashi 2-2-1, Chuo-ku, Tokyo

For reservation 03-3281-5575, Credit card accepted, probably non-smoking

I wanted to go to at least one sushi bar. I was envisioning asking a sushi chef to serve us series of small dishes including sashimi (otsumami おつまみ) and finish with a few sushi. I managed to make the reservation for this sushi place one day before. This is a small sushi bar and the reviews are mostly about the reasonably priced lunch they offer; “Kaisen-Don 海鮮丼” various sashimi on rice in a bowl. In any case, most of the time we were there we were the only customers. A middle aged woman came in and had a omakase nigiri sushi. After she left, the chef told us she was an actress based in Osaka who stopped by every time she was in Tokyo. Although the sashimi and sushi were decent, the selection lacked variety (the only white meat fish was hamachi).

“Renkon” Lotus Root in sweet vinegar 酢れんこん

We received fresh “renkon” lotus root from Weee. Since it was quite a large amount of renkon, as usual I cleaned, washed, dried the surface, and wrapped each segment in paper towel and vacuum packed it. This treatment makes renkon last for a longer time in the refrigerator.  Although I made quite a variety of renkon dishes, I have not posted this rather basic renkon dish called “su-renkon 酢蓮根”. Actually more elegant version called “hana-renkon 花レンコン” or “hanawa-renkon 花輪レンコン” is always included in Sushi Taro osechi box. In this rendition, I did not bother to make a decorative cut and also added seasoned strips of kelp called “shio-konbu 塩昆布” which added flavor/umami but colored the renkon a bit. I served it with salt-broth soaked snap peas スナップ豌豆の塩浸し”.

Sweet vinegar 甘酢
There are many variations. The basic is rice vinegar, sugar and salt but this combination can be made milder by adding broth or water. The recipe shown below is the current sweet vinegar recipe we like. Not too strong but not too watery.

Ingredients:
For sweet vinegar
75 ml rice vinegar
75 ml water
20 gram sugar
1/4 tsp salt

2 inch segment of fresh renkon, 2 inch, peeled, sliced in 1/5 inch (3mm) thick, immediately soak in cold water (I sliced it a bit thickly for a nice crunch).
1 dried japanese red  pepper, seeds removed, cut into small rounds, optional
1/2 tsp Japanese salted kelp strips (shio konbu 塩昆布), optional

Directions:
Boil the renkon 3-4 minutes (you want to leave some crunch), drain, salt lighly while hot, set aside
In a bowl, add the renkon, red pepper and salt kelp and add the sweet vinegar so that all is just covered.
Marindate 2-3 days in the refregerator.

It came out really nice. The renkon is crunchy and fresh tasting but not too harsh. I removed the visible red pepper flakes especially for my wife but it was not spicy at all.

Tokyo Kyobashi Areas Izakayas (part 2) 東京の居酒屋 東京駅八重洲京橋付近 パート2

3. Tsukiji Jikan Kyoubashi Branch 築地十干京橋店

Tokyo Square Garden BF1
Kyobashi 3-1-1
Chuo-Ku, Tokyo

For reservation 03-6260-6936,  Credit card accepted, Non-smoking

Although details are a bit unclear, it appears that there are two branches; one in Kyobashi and the other in Meguro. This izakaya might be run by the same entity which has a dried sea food store called “Hoshimon-ya Tsukiji Jikan 干しもんや築地十干”. It is a retail store for dried sea food but it was reported to transform to standing izakaya in the evening. In any case, I read that this place offers fresh sashimi, sushi, meat dishes, and oden. It was walking distance from our hotel. I found the building, in which this izakaya is located, called “Tokyo Square Garden 東京スクエアガーデン” easily enough. I somehow missed that this place is on the basement floor. On the front side, several restaurants were visible in the first (ground) floor but not the one we were looking for. It took some effort but we finally found it. You have to go into the building and take an escalator to BF1. By now we had learned the secret of  “you must make a reservation” to get a seat. Accordingly we had made a reservation but it was on the same day we were going to eat. As a result, seats were available but only at the counter. Once we got there, a middle aged waitress greeted us (very motherly person). The seats at the counter were extremely high stools. She immediately, worried that the tall stools at the counter may not be suitable especially for my wife. But there was a small shelf under the counter on which we could rest our feet so we were OK with that. She recommended a couple of sakes and as she served, she placed sake bottle in front of us for me to take a pic.

Her sake recommendation was quite good. From the counter, we could see the open kitchen. Several young cooks and two much older guys; one preparing sushi and the other mostly cooking meat items. We started with sashimi. Despite the “Tsukiji” name which emphasized the access to good fish, the sashimi was average. We had a few more items including lamb cooked in a skillet. We had some sushi as a shime dish. The sushi was ok but my wife thought the rice was not well seasoned/vinegared. Overall a good evening experience with a motherly waitress taking care of us. Next time, we should make a reservation a day or more before we would like to go and ask for low table seating (they have high tables with high stools as well).

4. Sakana-no-Mekiki 魚の目利き東京駅八重洲口店

東京都中央区日本橋3丁目2−16マスヤビル7F

Masuya-bldg 7F, Nihonbashi 3-2-16
Chuo-Ku, Tokyo

For reservation: 050-5486-4394, credit card accepted, only heated-tobacco allowed*

*We learned that “kanetsu-shiki tabako or heated-tobacco 加熱式タバコ” is a type of “vaping” popular in Japan. By heating (but not burning) tobacco leaves instead of using liquid tobacco extracts as is done with vaping, nicotine containing vapor can be inhaled. This type of “smoking” was permitted in this isakaya and when we were there, we did not detect any “cigaret” or other type of tobacco smoke.

The name of this Izakaya means “connoisseur of fish”. The owner must have a close tie to the fishing port called “Misaki 三浦”  on the Izu peninsula 伊豆半島, Kanagawa 神奈川 near Tokyo.  Fresh fish from Misaki was emphasized on their web site. This appears to be a one-store establishment (i.e. this is not part of a chain but also it is not a mom-pop-run izakaya either). It is on the 7th floor of a small building but it has an elevator.

This was one of the most enjoyable izakaya we tried. We made a reservation. Our table was separated by hanging semi-opaque fabric barrier which made it somewhat private. They have a number of interesting dishes but as usual, we started with  assorted sashimi and sake. The sashimi was quite good. “Tai” perch had a bit sinewy part but it was confined to the part under the skin. Better than the “Tai” we have had else where (it appears this year’s “Tai” perch is chewy/sinewy). We also had “Tuna shuto with cheese マグロ酒盗チーズ” which was unusual and good. Another one which is a bit usual was“al ajillo” of small shrimp and small bait fish. The baguette came with this could be better, though. Another interesting dish was “iburi-gakko kurimu chizu いぶりがっこクリームチーズ” (I made a similar dish getting idea from this dish which is a subject of another post).

We had more sake and couple of other dishes. All quite good. 

Cream Cheese with Pickled Daikon クリームチーズ 沢庵入り

While we were in Japan, we had cream cheese with  “iburi-gakko いぶりがっこ” at one of izakayas we visited. “ Iburi-gakko” is a local food peculiar to the northern part of the main land Japan (Tohoku region 東北地方).  It is made by hanging daikon radish over the hearth (old farm houses had open fire hearths) which dried and also smoked the daikon. It was then cured (not with vinegar but with salt and rice bran mixture). This produced “iburi-gakko”. It is crunchy with a slightly salty and smoky flavors.  The combination of cream cheese and iburi-gakko was really great. Although we did not have “iburi-gakko”, I made a similar dish using the pickled daikon I made.  I served it with cucumber and nappa cabbage “asazuke” (picture #1).

This was a part of small “otsumami おつまみ”  dishes (picture #2). From left to right, baby artichoke hearts and olives dressed with balsamic vinegar and olive oil, renkon in sweet vinegar or “Subasu 酢蓮” (subject described in a separate post) with salt-broth soaked snap peas スナップ豌豆の塩びたし and cream cheese with pickled daikon. These are just nice small dishes that go with cold sake in the evening.

Ingredients:
1/3 block of cream cheese, warmed up to room temperature
1 inch home made picked daikon, cut into small dice

Directions:
In a bowl, add the daikon and cream cheese and mix.
On the plastic wrap, make a log about 1 inch in diameter, roll and wrap it tightly (picture #3)
Refregerator at least one hour before slicing

Although, it lacks the smoky flavor of “iburi-gakko”, the salty and sweet crunchy daikon, really worked with the cream cheese. I will be making this again for sure.

Tokyo Kyobashi Areas Izakayas (part 1) 東京の居酒屋 東京駅八重洲京橋付近 パート1

We have not posted for sometime. That is partly because we were in Japan for several weeks. In any case, we are back. Mostly for our own benefits, I am listing the izakayas we visited while we were in Japan. This is not an endorsement or criticism of the places. Just our impression/description for the reference next time we go to Japan. I choose izakayas based mostly on their location, and review, menu, and pictures available on line. 

Just some observations on the current izakaya situation in Japan compared to our previous experiences on our previous visits the last in 2017 (8 years ago). In the past getting a table at an izakaya was a relatively low key affair. You would find an izakaya where you wanted to eat. You would then in stick your head in the door ask if there was room (which there usually was) then entered to be seated. No reservation required. Once seated that spot was yours for the duration. There was no specification of allotted time, or the number of dishes or drinks you had to order in that specified time. Things are quite different now. It seems that Japan has been inundated with foreign tourists especially from China. The izakaya have been flooded with foreign customers and seating is limited. We saw many people turned away or told there would be a long wait before they could be served. In addition there are now a number of other restrictions including a maximum allotted time to use the table and required numbers of orders of food and drink.  After some lack of success in appropriating a seating at izakaya we had selected we found the secret was to make a reservation even if it was only several hours before you wanted to eat. Once we discovered this secret we had much more success but it required us to plan more in advance. Things were not as spontaneous as before. Another difference we noticed is that many Izakayas in this area (many office workers) are into serving lunch and sometimes lunch is more emphasized than evening Izakaya. As a result, many of reviews on line are about lunch.

Tokyo Yaesu Kyobashi area 東京 八重洲, 京橋付近

1. Uokichi Sakaba Tokyo Branch 魚吉酒場東京店

東京都中央区京橋1丁目4−13 初音ビル 1F

Hatsune Bdg 1F
Kyobashi 1-4-13 Chuo-Ku, Tokyo

For reservation 050-5594-1328
Credit card accepted, Smoking allowed

This is a classic chain Izakaya. We went there because it was close to our hotel. We did not make any reservation and went there around 6 pm. We were told that we could have a table until 7:30 pm. The inside appeared to be newly renovated and very bright. The staff is all young and most of the customers are also young. The Sake selection was OK but not extensive. The food menu was also very classic for a chain izkaya. We had a sashimi assortment and several other dishes including fried food. Nothing extraordinary but not bad and the service was average. The reason we had to vacate by 7:30 became apparent as a group of people with cameras started gathering in front of the store. Apparently a YouTuber was making “contents” starting at 7:30.

2. Ichinokura Kyobashi-ten 一ノ倉京橋店

東京都中央区京橋1丁目4−13
Kyobashi 1-4-13
Chuo-Ku, Tokyo

For reservation 03-3517-1570

Credit card accepted

Non-smoking with smoking area 

We visited this Izakaya 8 years ago. We came here because it was next door to Uokichi and, for nostalgic reason, we decide to try it again. This was slightly more upscale than “Uokichi”. The entrance is at ground level, but you had to go down one floor. We had not made a reservation. Again, we were told we could have a table until 7 pm since the only available table had a reservation starting at 7:30 pm which left us about 1 hour. So we were ushered to a semi private room/booth. The server tried to be as efficient as possible. I asked for a sake recommendation first. He recommended one sake so we said “yes” but he came back and said “sorry we are out”. As compared to 8 years ago, the sake selection was not as extensive. Our first order was assorted sashimi which came in a shallow bowl covered with a dry ice induced fog, which entirely obliterated the view of sashimi (see below). Although nothing could be seen because of the fog the server pointed into it “identifying” the unseeable fish varieties that were supposedly there and explaining what kind of sashimi we got.

The sashimi was ok except for Tai perch which was so chewy my wife could not eat it. So she chewed for  a while and spitted it out and hid it under the garnish of “Otoshi”. That did not escape the keen eyed server’s notice. He asked “Oh, she cannot eat raw fish?” I answered “Yes she can but this was too chewy even for me” which shut him up. (This chewy Tai repeated in other izakaya we visited except for one in Kyoto called ‘Irodori” (more details later).) In any case, we were less impressed with our experience at this izakaya than we were 8 years prior and made an early retreat.

Carrot Salad Muffin 人参サラダ入りマフィン

My wife made this muffin to finish the left-over carrot salad which she made for a company dinner we had some days ago. She remembered that she made carrot muffins from shredded carrots before. So she used the same recipe and substituted the carrot salad for the shredded carrots called for in the recipe. Although the original carrot salad had many spices including cumin, cayenne pepper, and ginger, they mellowed in the muffins. The muffins came out quite moist and had a great flavor due to the muted tastes of the spices.  The crumb topping also worked well.

Carrot salad: (We posted it in 2012. We are listing the recipe again in a standard format. The recipe is based on the spiced carrot salad recipe found in the "500 appetizers" cookbook.)
Ingredients: (for carrot salad)
2 cups of shredded carrots (in the food processor), cook in the micro wave for 30 seconds, stir and cook about another 30 seconds until the carrots get a bit tender but still have crunch).
1 cup raisin 
1/2 tsp. ground ginger, 
1 tsp. cumin, 
1/2 tsp ground coriander, 
1/2 tsp paprika, 
1/8 tsp cayenne pepper, 
Candied ginger, finely chopped,  to taste, 
4 tsp. sushi vinegar plus juice of 2 limes
3 Tbs. olive oil, 
2 tsp. chopped mint.

Directions:

Mix all the spices together with the liquid ingredients and poured the dressing over the carrots and raisins. I let it sit for several hours for the flavors to marry (as a matter-of-fact the salad gets better every day).

Muffin: (we used the recipe from carrot bread muffin which was posted 
Ingredients: (for muffin)
1 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
3/4 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp. ground ginger
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) melted butter
1 cup packed brown sugar
1 large egg
2 tbsp. sour cream
1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
2 cups grated carrot salad

Crumb topping: (This is the crumb topping used for other muffins)
Ingredients: (for crumb topping)
1/2 cup (60g) all-purpose flour
1/4 cup (50g) sugar
1/4 tsp. of salt
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold and cut into 1/2-inch cubes

Directions:
Preheat oven to 375°.
to make the crumbs combine the flour, sugar and salt in a medium bowl.
Add the butter, and mix with your fingers until the mixture forms crumbs.

To make the batter for the muffin in a medium bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients; flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, and ginger. In another large bowl, whisk together the wet ingredients; melted butter, brown sugar, egg, sour cream, and vanilla. Stir the carrots, into the liquid ingredients until thoroughly blended. Stir in the flour mixture until just combined. Grease a 12-cup muffin tin with butter. Divide the batter among the muffin tins. Spread the crumbs on the top of the muffins. Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center of a muffin comes out clean, 20 to 25 minutes.

These were very good muffins, dense in texture and moist. The muted taste of all the spices added depth of flavor. The crumbs on top came out with an almost cookie texture and crunch while they added a pleasant burst of sweetness. These were actually much better than we expected.

“Cotton Candy Grape” Panna Cotta “わたあめブドウ“ パンナコッタ

When my wife made “cotton candy grape” muffin, there was a small amount of the grape puree left and she decided to make “cotton candy grape” panna cotta. Since she has made quite a few panna cottas in the past, for this one, she just used her CCK (Common Culinary Knowledge) to come up with this panna cotta. It was quite good. The consistency is soft creamy; not too solid like Jell-O.

Ingredients:
1 tsp. gelatin
1 cup 4% milk
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup grape puree
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 tsp. vanilla

Directions:
Using an emersion blender puree enough grapes to make 1/2 cup puree. In a double boiler using 1/2 cup of the milk, bloom the gelatin for 15 minutes. Turn on the heat until the gelatin has completely dissolved into the milk. (Stir with a whisk if necessary to make all the gelatin dissolve). Add the sugar and stir until it is completely dissolved. Take off the heat and add the remaining milk, heavy cream and grape puree. Pour into small ramekins or Pyrex dessert bowls. Put into the refrigerator until set. 

This was a very delicate delicious dessert. It was very smooth and soft in texture. The pleasant slightly sweet flavor of the grapes came through. 

“Cotton Candy Grape Muffin” “わたあめブドウ” のマフィン

This is a muffin my wife came up with using our favorite “Cotton Candy Grapes”. These are seedless (mostly) green table grapes which are sweet and really taste like “cotton candy”. We really like them and as a result, this time, we over did it and bought too many. A small remainder of the batch we bought was getting to the point we had to use/eat them fairly soon before they went bad. My wife decided to make a muffin using the grapes cut-up as well as pureed. She thought she could modify her “ apple pie muffin” recipe. This turned out to be quite a good muffin. The grape flavor was a bit muted but the cut-up grapes did add real grape flavors (the cut grapes shown as light green shapes in the first picture). This is unqualified success using a bit unusual ingredients for muffins.

Ingredients:
For the muffins: 
1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour,
1 tsp. ground cinnamon, 
1 tsp. cardamon
2/3 cup unsalted butter, softened,
3/4 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt; for table salt use half as much by volume
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 cup sour cream, at room temperature
1/3 cup grape puree, at room temperature.
1 to 2 cups cut up grapes

Directions:
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a 12-cup muffin tin with paper liners. Using an emersion blender puree the grapes to make 1/3 cup puree (#1).  Cut 1 to 2 cups of grapes into pieces and set aside (#2). In a large bowl with an electric mixer, beat granulated sugar and butter on medium speed until fluffy, about 4 minutes, stopping to scrape down sides as needed. Add eggs, one at a time, beating until combined after each addition, about 30 seconds. Add the sour cream and grape puree stirring to combine completely.

In a medium bowl, whisk together salt, baking powder, baking soda, flour, cinnamon and cardamon. Add cut up grapes and stir until coated with flour. Stir flour mixture into butter mixture until flour mixture is moistened. 

Spoon batter into bottom of each paper liner (#3). Bake for 5 minutes at 400 degrees. Reduce oven temperature to 375°F and continue baking until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 12 to 18 minutes, rotating pan halfway. Let cool in pan 10 minutes. (#4)

These muffins had a dense but tender texture. The grape flavor came through mostly as a mild sweetness. The cut up grapes for the most part disappeared. Maybe they were absorbed into the dough (or maybe not well distributed). Although the use of grapes was a bit unusual it worked. 

We have a quite few amaryllis which my wife keeps alive and thriving for many years. Many of them keep blossoming every year, either for Christmas or  Easter. Although she marked the amaryllis which bloomed the previous year Christmas (2023) and started tending them at Thanksgiving so they would bloom at Christmas (2024).  They remained completely dormant. Finally about a week ago they decided to bloom. Here is a pic of the flower that gave actual meaning to the phrase “late bloomer” Meanwhile the Easter ones are quickly catching up. But better late than never. We really enjoy these flowers.

Hanami #2 花見＃2

After our first hanami 花見, we were expecting bad weather and rain.  However,  luckily, we had a second nice day of hanami and I made another attempt at a hanami bento 花見弁当. This time, I filled the smaller lidded box with scattered sushi or “chirashi-zushi” ちらし寿司 made of smoked salmon, marinated “ikura” salmon roe いくらの醤油漬け(#1).

Opening the lid of the smaller box revealed scattered sushi (#2 left upper). I also served Russian marinated salmon 鮭のロシアずけ topped with ikura (#2 upper right) and herring marinated in wine sauce (store-bought) topped with sour cream mixed with the brine from the herring jar and chopped dill (#2, lower left). The smaller box without a lid, I served salmon kelp roll 鮭の昆布巻き, “kinpira gobo” 金平牛蒡 braised burdock root, mock tofu 擬制豆腐, braised spicy marinated tofu ピリカラ豆腐, braised crunchy cauliflower モンパルナスのカリフラワー and crispy marinated  enoki mushroom エノキのパリパリ焼き, skinned Campari tomato, and chicken liver simmered in red wine 鶏肝の赤ワイン煮.

I used frozen rice to make sushi rice. I just microwaved the rice until warm, added the sushi vinegar (from the bottle) mixed and microwaved a bit more to warm up. I mixed it again and let it sit for 5 minutes. It was not the best sushi rice but certainly good enough for the purpose. I marinated ikura with x4 concentrated Japanese noodle sauce overnight in the refrigerator. I first placed the sushi rice on the bottom of the small covered box then distributed ikura over half of the rice surface followed by smoked salmon (#3). I topped this with a julienne of cucumber and golden thread egg or “kinshi-ran” 金糸卵 and nori threads or “kizami-nori” 刻み海苔(#4). Since we were not expecting to have the second hanami this was a bonus and what I put together for the occasion was pretty satisfying.

Now, our main cherry tree (“somei-yoshino” 染井吉野 which has a bottle brush appearance of numerous blossoms covering the branches (foreground) and the more traditional one like depicted in “ukiyoe” painting of edo time 江戸時代の浮世絵  which is in the background are both in full bloom displaying their individual personalities in the shape and characteristics of their petals. 

Hanami 2025 花見2025

Because it got warm quickly, three of our cherry trees blossomed one after the other. The first one is dropping petals already, our main tree is in full bloom and our old tree has just started. So it was hanami 花見 time. I filled the new jubako box 重箱 with goodies for the occasion. I used the smaller box without a lid, the smaller box with a lid and two small porcelain bowls to fill each tier. One tier served one person.  I served quite a few sashimi items accompanied by soy sauce, wasabi and yuzu kosho 柚子胡椒 (#1).

The sashimi I served (#2) was bluefin tuna クロマグロ (was called “akami” 赤身 but it was more like “chutoro” 中トロ), kanpachi カンパチ” amberjack, and salmon. All came from Riviera Seafood Club. The tuna was good but kanpachi and salmon could have been better. The meat was abit too lean and could have used a bit more fat. 

In one of the bowls, I served the remaining tuna and Russian marinated salmon 鮭のロシア漬け in the shape of roses and topped it with “ikura” いくら salmon roe (#3).

I also served scallop sashimi ホタテの刺身 which was really good as always (#4).

In the covered small box (#5), I served an assortment of dishes I made as well as “uni suhto” which I did not make  ウニの酒盗 shown in a very small square bowl. Lower bottom is a salmon kelp roll 鮭の昆布巻 and mock tofu 擬制豆腐. Left upper are dashimaki egg omelet with dried nori powder or “aonori” 青海苔入りだし巻 topped with cruchy braised cauliflower.

Our second generation cherry tree blossomed nicely. The tree has grown quite a bit. It was planted after we lost the original tree in a nor’easter 7 years ago.

We started our hanami while it was still light but the fun extended into the evening and we turned on the flood lights as shown in the picture below. Even thought the sun was down It was still very warm and pleasant.

Jubako for “hanami” cherry blossom gazing 花見用市松模様の重箱

Recently, I got a new “Jubako” 重箱 which is a tiered square box with a lid for picnic like “hanami” 花見 cherry blossom gazing. I saw this at MTC Kitchen and thought this was perfect for our hanami. It has red or fuchsia and gold staggered square pattern called “Ichimatsu” pattern 一松模様.  “Ichimatsu” 一松 is the name of the “kabuki” actor 歌舞伎俳優 from Edo period 江戸時代 who wore a costume in this pattern.

A bit unusual feature of this box is that two small square boxes, one with a lid and one without, are included in each tier. The little box without the lid is shown in the picture below as #1. The one with the lid is shown in the pic with a red/gold diagonal pattern. 

Here is what the two layers of the box look like. The lidless boxes are shown with a #1 and they are touching the corner of the boxes with a red and gold colored lid. This configuration of open and closed boxes with regular uncovered spaces provides are great deal of options to artistically display the bento box food.

I am planning to have this box filled with goodies for hanami which will be the next post.

Nappa Cabbage Cream Stew 白菜のクリームシチュー

This is my effort to use up whatever we had on hand. The first item was nappa cabbage or “hakusai 白菜” I got from Weee. It was fairly big and it was time for me to start using it. We also had one link each of chicken and pork sausages which we got from a local gourmet grocery store fresh (uncooked). I boiled them few days ago. Several carrots started sprouting and needed to be used. After some thought, I decided to make “cream stew”. I did not follow any specific recipe. This was our lunch one day and it was quite good, very comforting dish. The chicken sausage flavors were apple and sage but in the stew, a subtle, pleasant spiciness which we hadn’t noticed before came out and was very pronounced. 

This is not really a recipe but notes to myself.

Ingredients: (makes about 6 servings)
6 leaves of nappa cabbage, the white stems and leaves separated. The stems halved lengthwise and then cut in an angle (“sogi-giri” or “shave-cut” 削ぎ切, see #1 in the composite on the right most side), the separated leaves (#2)  cut into about 1 inch wide
1 each chicken and pork sausages (previously boiled) cut into medallions (#3)
4 caps of fresh shiitake mushrooms, cut into small bite size
1 tbs olive oil
2-3 cups of chicken broth

For béchamel sauce** (#4)
One shallot, finely chopped (#1 on the left)
2 tbs finely chopped shiitake stems and shallot, sautéed in olive oil, seasoned with salt and pepper* (optional)
4 tbs flour
2 tbs butter
salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste
about 100 ml or so milk

*When I receive fresh shiitake mushrooms (from Weee), I separate the caps and stems. The caps are packed in a ziploc bag with paper towels which makes the fresh shiitake last longer. For the remaining stems, I cut off the very ends, then shred and finely chop them. I saute this in olive oil with chopped shallots. This concoction is handy to have for making other dishes such as mushroom risotto. 

**The usual béchamel uses same amount of butter and flour but by adding finely chopped onion/shallot  in butter before adding the flour, you can reduce the butter in half. The flour clings to the surface of the onion/shallot which prevents the flour from clumping up. No need to add the milk gradually. Just dump all at once.

Directions:
For béchamel sauce
Melt the butter in the non-stick frying pan on medium-low flame, sauté the shallot until soft, add the shiitake stems and shallot mixture and sauté for one more minute. 
Add the flour and cook until no dry flour is visible, add the milk (at once) and start mixing (first with a whisk and then with a silicon spatula) until thickened. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg and set aside (#4)
In a pan on medium flame, add the olive oil.  When hot, add the sausages and lightly brown both sides, add the cabbage stems, carrots, shiitake mushrooms and sauté for few minutes (#5)
Add the chicken broth so that the vegetables and sausages are just covered and cook 20-30 minutes.
Add the béchamel sauce and mix. Simmer fro 5-10 minutes and add the nappa cabbage leaves (#6)
Season with salt and pepper if needed.

I made the stew several hours before serving. The green color was nicely vibrant right after I finished cooking the stew but the green color faded (the top serving picture) before I could serve it. This was a rich savory stew with a complex range of flavors. The creamy texture was luxurious. The combination of the precooked shitake mushrooms and shallots was an outstanding addition to the soup. The sausage was a nice meaty addition as well. This was a very comforting soup.     

Babka Cookie Muffin バブカ クッキー マフィン

Last Christmas, we received chocolate babka as a gift. We enjoyed most of it but a small amount (a few good sized irregular pieces but mostly thick crumbs) remained in a Ziploc bag in the refrigerator. Everything was still good. Its consistency and flavor made my wife remember some cookie butter crumb muffins she made some time ago and decided to use these babka left-overs to make a babka variation of cookie crumb muffin. My task was to pulverize or batter the left-over babka into crumbs. The resulting “battered babka crumb” was very chocolatey and much more moist than we expected but was just the amount needed to make the muffins.  The resulting muffins were very good with nice chocolaty flavor. They were not too sweet even with a crumb topping. Perfect for breakfast.

Ingredients:
FOR THE CRUMB TOPPING:
1/2 cup (60g) all-purpose flour
1/4 cup (50g) sugar
pinch of salt
4 tablespoons (42g) unsalted butter, cold and cut into 1/2-inch cubes

FOR THE MUFFINS:
1 3/4 cups (210g) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup (57g) unsalted butter, softened
1/2 cup (100g) sugar
1/2 cup (140g) “battered babka crumbs”
1 large egg
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
3/4 cup butter milk

Directions:
TO MAKE THE CRUMB TOPPING:
Combine the flour, sugar and salt in a medium bowl.
Add the butter, and mix with your fingers until the mixture forms crumbs. Set aside (#3).

TO MAKE THE MUFFINS:
Preheat oven to 375°F. Line or grease a 12-cup standard muffin pan.
Whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Set aside.
Using an electric mixer on medium speed, beat the butter, sugar, and babka crumbs until thoroughly combined.
Add the egg and vanilla, and mix well. Add the milk and mix well (#1).
Add the milk mixture to the flour mixture and mix until fully blended (#2).
Scoop the batter into the muffin tins. (I used the second largest ice cream scoop).
Distribute the crumb topping over the muffin batter (#3). 
Bake 20 to 25 minute, or until the muffins are lightly browned and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean (#4). Cool the muffins in the pan for 10 minutes. Then transfer them to a wire rack to cool completely.

These muffins were quite good. They had a mild chocolately/bobka flavor. They were not too sweet and had a moist dense texture. The crumbs were literally “the icing on the top” with a slight browned butter sugar sweetness. We may have to go out and buy another babka for the next batch.

Chickpea fries ひよこ豆フライ

My wife saw this recipe for chickpea fries in the Washington Post. She then realized she had bought chickpea flour some time ago, to make an Indian dish but she never made the dish. The flour had been sitting in the freezer for some time. So, she thought this would be a good way to use the chickpea flour. She figured, the most arduous  part of making this dish was that it had to be deep fried.  But, turns out that was not a problem for her since I am the one who does the deep frying in our kitchen. In any case, this was our collaborative effort. As with any fried starch, this was very good. The outside was light but crispy and the center was creamy. These are very similar in texture to the fries we make with nagaimo (but have not posted). We did not make a dipping sauce. We did not even need salt. 

Ingredients(We halved the recipe which made about 20 fries)
1 teaspoons olive oil, plus more for greasing the parchment
2 cups water
1 cups (120 grams) chickpea flour
1/2 teaspoon fine salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Directions
Cut two pieces of parchment paper to fit a 9-by-13-inch sheet pan or casserole dish. Use a little olive oil to lightly grease one side of each piece of parchment. Place one parchment piece on the bottom of the baking sheet (oil side up) and reserve the other.

In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the olive oil and water. Just before it starts to boil, slowly sprinkle in the chickpea flour while whisking to remove many (if not all) of the clumps and form a smooth batter. Whisk in the salt and pepper and reduce the heat to low. Switch to a wooden spoon and cook, stirring constantly, until the batter stiffens and starts to pull away from the sides and/or bottom of the pan, 10 minutes.

Scoop the batter onto the greased parchment in the pan and spread it out evenly as quickly as you can (it will start to firm up as it cools). Place the second piece of paper, greased side down, on the batter and gently press to smooth it out evenly. Transfer the pan to the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes, until it has cooled and set. (we kept it in the fridge for three days before frying).

When the batter has set, remove the top paper and use a butter knife to cut the chickpea block into 20 sticks.

In our Tempura pot, heat the cirsco oil until it reaches 350F (or 180C) on an instant-read thermometer. Working in batches to avoid overcrowding, gently add the chickpea sticks to the oil and cook, turning with tongs when needed, until golden on both sides, about 3 to 5 minutes per side. Using the tongs, transfer to the rack to drain.

These were very good—crunchy on the outside silky smooth on the inside with a very subtle grainy taste. Initially they were extremely greasy but over time the excess grease got absorbed and added to the outside crispiness. We subsequently read that instead of frying they should be sautéed in a frying pan with a small amount of oil which would significantly reduce the greasiness. These crisped up very nicely in the toaster oven. 

Shrimp Chicken Gyouza エビと鶏肉の餃子

I made Ricotta and parmesan cheese meat balls from a half pound of the ground chicken we bought from the grocery store recently. From the other half, I made shrimp/chicken gyoza エビと鶏肉の餃子. I used a mixture of chicken, shrimp and cabbage as the basis for the gyoza. Somehow the shrimp took center stage taste-wise. The taste of chicken became muted and sort of disappeared leaving a nice shrimp taste and texture from the large chunks of shrimp I added. The good amount of the cabbage I added to use up the last of a head of cabbage I had in the fridge stepped back from center stage too but added a nice lighter texture. (If I wasn’t told I would never have known the chicken and cabbage were involved.)  Since I seasoned the filling rather well, the dipping sauce became optional. This is a different and great gyoza. It heated and crisped up nicely in the “toaster oven”. I made a small salad with cucumber and blanched wood ear mushroom dressed in mustard/pon-zu dressing 胡瓜と木耳のからしポン酢あえ.

Ingredients (made about 40 gyoza)
6 large shrimp, frozen,  (I used 6 large frozen shrimp, thawed, shell removed and cut into small chunks with some made more into almost paste.)

1/2 lb ground chicken
1/4 head of cabbage, core removed, finely chopped, blanched in salted water for a few minutes, moisture squeezed
1/2 tsp ground ginger
1/2 tsp ground garlic
1 tsp potato starch
1 tsp salt
1 tsp soy sauce
1 tsp sesame oil
1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
40 Gyoza wrappers (I used Myojo 明星 brand, frozen, thawed)

For cooking
1 tbs neutral oil plus a splash of dark sesame oil
4-5 tbs water

Directions:
In a large bowl, add all the ingredients (except for the wrappers) and mix well.
Separate the wrappers and moisten the half perimeter with water, add 1tsp of the filling in the center and close the wrapper (I make a half moon shape), crimp the edges in 4-5 places
Cover it with a plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to cook

Cooking
Add the oil in the non-stick frying pan on medium flame and when the oil is hot, slide in the gyoza and cook for 2 minutes or until bottom side is browned.
Flip each gyoza and brown other side (optional but we like cripsy skin on all sides)
Turn down the flame and add 4-5 tbs of water and place the lid and let it steam for 2-3 minutes
When no more steam is escaping, remove the lid and crisp up the bottom (you could add more sesame oil if you like)
Repeat for another batch

Compared to my usual pork/cabbage filling, this is lighter and with a nice delicate shrimp flavor and texture (“puri-puri” プリプリ). The myojo brand of gyoza wrappers I used was perfect because they are smaller and thinner than the square wonton skins I usually use. This delicate wrapper really let the lovely delicate shrimp flavor shine through. They crisped up very nicely in the toaster oven. 

Anchovy Onion Cocktail Biscuit アンチョビイと玉ねぎカクテルビスケット

I made “plupo al ajillo” from boiled Spanish octopus legs from D’Artagnan. They were the last of the octopus legs we had gotten from D’Artagnan. I did this since the octopus was not getting any better in the freezer and has been facing some fierce competition from the very good ones we have been getting recently from Weee. Instead of just salt I used filets of oil packed anchovy. This came out extremely well. After simmering in olive oil for 5 minutes, the octopus was very tender and the anchovy really added nice salty and umami-rich flavor. With my mini-baguette, this was a really good appetizer. 

Nonetheless after this, we were left with 4-5 more anchovy fillets. (There usually seem to be more anchovies in a can of anchovies than we can usually use). My wife came to the rescue. She found this recipe for “Anchovy onion cocktail biscuit” in the Washington Post. Given the “excess anchovy” situation and since we are big fans of savory cookies and biscuits, there was no way we could “pass”. This was a really good biscuit. It tasted so good with a glass of red wine. Caramelized onion and anchovy made this biscuit really savory and the texture was great.

Ingredients (makes 50 bite-size biscuits)

For the onions
1 medium onion (6 ounces), halved and sliced
4 anchovy fillets, minced
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (we used small amount of cayenne pepper)
1/2 teaspoon salt (adjust depending on the saltiness of the anchovy)
1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon heavy cream (we used light cream)

For the dough
1 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (226 grams) all-purpose flour, plus more for the counter
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
6 tablespoons (3 ounces/85 grams) unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch dice and frozen (#1 in the composite)
3/4 cup (2 1/2 ounces/71 grams) grated Gruyère cheese, plus more for sprinkling if desired (#1)
2 1/2 tablespoons (1/2 ounce/15 grams) grated parmesan cheese, plus more for sprinkling if desired (#1)
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Heavy cream, for brushing (we did not use)

Directions
Step 1
Make the onions: In a skillet over medium-low heat, combine the onion, anchovies, oil, crushed red pepper flakes (in our case cayenne pepper) and salt. Cook, stirring occasionally and adjusting the heat as necessary, until the onions are soft and golden, 30 to 45 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool, then chop the mixture. Transfer the mixture to a medium bowl, add the cream and refrigerate for about 15 minutes.

Step 2
Make the dough: In a food processor, combine the flour, baking powder and salt and pulse until combined. Add the frozen butter and process until the mixture resembles a coarse meal, about 15 seconds. Transfer to a large bowl and mix in the cheeses until combined (#1). Add the onion mixture and pepper and, using a fork, stir just until the onions are evenly distributed. The dough will be crumbly.

Step 3
Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 400 degrees. Line a large, rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

Step 4
Lightly flour a work surface, turn the dough out on it and shape it into an 8-inch square. If the dough is too dry to stay together, sprinkle it with more heavy cream, 1 tablespoon at a time, just until it holds its shape. Using a sharp knife or bench scraper, cut it into quarters. Stack one quarter on top of another so that you have two stacks (#2). Push them close together; then, using a rolling pin, gently flatten and roll it out into a 1/2- to 3/4-inch-thick square. For neater biscuits, trim any uneven edges of the dough with a bench scraper or sharp knife, reserving the trimmings, then cut the dough into 1-inch square biscuits.

Step 5
Reroll the trimmings and cut additional biscuits as needed. Working in batches if necessary, arrange the biscuits about 1 inch apart on the prepared baking sheet (#3).  Lightly brush each biscuit with heavy cream. Sprinkle them with additional gruyere or parmesan, if desired. (We didn’t do this). If your kitchen is very warm or the dough has gotten soft, chill the cut biscuits in the refrigerator for about 10 minutes.

Step 6
Bake the biscuits for 7 minutes, rotate the pan front to back and continue baking 4 to 5 minutes more, or until the tops are golden (#4). The biscuits are tender, so if the sprinkled cheese on top melts causing them to stick to the parchment, gently free them with a thin spatula before lifting them.

Step 7
Serve warm or room temperature.

These were surprisingly good biscuits.They started out with a very strong onion flavor which as they cooled down mellowed into a smooth slightly sweet carmelized onion flavor that blended well with the saltiness of the anchovy. The texture was a bit surprising. the outside was crunchy like the crust of a pie but the inside was a very soft combination of butter and cheeses.  These make great “small-bites” to go with a glass of wine.

Burdock Root Kelp Roll ごぼうの昆布巻き

We decided that salmon kelp rolls are not just for new year and started making it regularly.  We ususally get a half filet of a whole salmon which is much more economical per unit weight but you end up with a lot of salmon. The way I usually handle this is; 1. Scale the salmon skin, 2: Remove the belly portion (we have it as an appetizer, lightly salted and dried overnight in the refrigerator), 3. Remove flesh from the skin from the irregular pieces such as the both ends (From them I make salmon cakes), 4. Thinly slice and make Russian marinated salmon and 5. Cut into half inch buttons and make salmon kelp rolls, 6. When the salmon is particularly large, I also could make two small fillets.  This leaves a good amount of salmon skin. I cut the skin in a few inch rectangle and make them flat with a small sheet of parchment paper separating the each pieces and place them in a sealable plastic container stored in the fridge until I cook them

When I make salmon kelp rolls, I try to hydrate just the right amount of “Konbu” kelp and “Kanpyo” goard peel, but, often I have some extras. So, to use up the hydrated kelp and kanpyo, I made burdock root kelp rolls since I had burdock roots at hand.  I served this with slamon kelp roll, green beans with sesame dressing and crispy salmon skin as a starter one evening.

I did not follow any particular recipe. 

For burdock root, I just scrape the skin, cut into the length matching the width of the kelp.  Boil for 10 minutes, roll in the kelp and tie with the kanpyo. Then, I cooked them very similar to the salmon kelp rolls.

This is quite good. I seasoned it less sweet and a bit more salty than the salmon kelp rolls. It has a nice crunch.