Carrot Salad Muffin 人参サラダ入りマフィン

My wife made this muffin to finish the left-over carrot salad which she made for a company dinner we had some days ago. She remembered that she made carrot muffins from shredded carrots before. So she used the same recipe and substituted the carrot salad for the shredded carrots called for in the recipe. Although the original carrot salad had many spices including cumin, cayenne pepper, and ginger, they mellowed in the muffins. The muffins came out quite moist and had a great flavor due to the muted tastes of the spices.  The crumb topping also worked well.

Carrot salad: (We posted it in 2012. We are listing the recipe again in a standard format. The recipe is based on the spiced carrot salad recipe found in the "500 appetizers" cookbook.)
Ingredients: (for carrot salad)
2 cups of shredded carrots (in the food processor), cook in the micro wave for 30 seconds, stir and cook about another 30 seconds until the carrots get a bit tender but still have crunch).
1 cup raisin 
1/2 tsp. ground ginger, 
1 tsp. cumin, 
1/2 tsp ground coriander, 
1/2 tsp paprika, 
1/8 tsp cayenne pepper, 
Candied ginger, finely chopped,  to taste, 
4 tsp. sushi vinegar plus juice of 2 limes
3 Tbs. olive oil, 
2 tsp. chopped mint.

Directions:

Mix all the spices together with the liquid ingredients and poured the dressing over the carrots and raisins. I let it sit for several hours for the flavors to marry (as a matter-of-fact the salad gets better every day).

Muffin: (we used the recipe from carrot bread muffin which was posted 
Ingredients: (for muffin)
1 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
3/4 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp. ground ginger
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) melted butter
1 cup packed brown sugar
1 large egg
2 tbsp. sour cream
1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
2 cups grated carrot salad

Crumb topping: (This is the crumb topping used for other muffins)
Ingredients: (for crumb topping)
1/2 cup (60g) all-purpose flour
1/4 cup (50g) sugar
1/4 tsp. of salt
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold and cut into 1/2-inch cubes

Directions:
Preheat oven to 375°.
to make the crumbs combine the flour, sugar and salt in a medium bowl.
Add the butter, and mix with your fingers until the mixture forms crumbs.

To make the batter for the muffin in a medium bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients; flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, and ginger. In another large bowl, whisk together the wet ingredients; melted butter, brown sugar, egg, sour cream, and vanilla. Stir the carrots, into the liquid ingredients until thoroughly blended. Stir in the flour mixture until just combined. Grease a 12-cup muffin tin with butter. Divide the batter among the muffin tins. Spread the crumbs on the top of the muffins. Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center of a muffin comes out clean, 20 to 25 minutes.

These were very good muffins, dense in texture and moist. The muted taste of all the spices added depth of flavor. The crumbs on top came out with an almost cookie texture and crunch while they added a pleasant burst of sweetness. These were actually much better than we expected.

“Cotton Candy Grape” Panna Cotta “わたあめブドウ“ パンナコッタ

When my wife made “cotton candy grape” muffin, there was a small amount of the grape puree left and she decided to make “cotton candy grape” panna cotta. Since she has made quite a few panna cottas in the past, for this one, she just used her CCK (Common Culinary Knowledge) to come up with this panna cotta. It was quite good. The consistency is soft creamy; not too solid like Jell-O.

Ingredients:
1 tsp. gelatin
1 cup 4% milk
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup grape puree
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 tsp. vanilla

Directions:
Using an emersion blender puree enough grapes to make 1/2 cup puree. In a double boiler using 1/2 cup of the milk, bloom the gelatin for 15 minutes. Turn on the heat until the gelatin has completely dissolved into the milk. (Stir with a whisk if necessary to make all the gelatin dissolve). Add the sugar and stir until it is completely dissolved. Take off the heat and add the remaining milk, heavy cream and grape puree. Pour into small ramekins or Pyrex dessert bowls. Put into the refrigerator until set. 

This was a very delicate delicious dessert. It was very smooth and soft in texture. The pleasant slightly sweet flavor of the grapes came through. 

“Cotton Candy Grape Muffin” “わたあめブドウ” のマフィン

This is a muffin my wife came up with using our favorite “Cotton Candy Grapes”. These are seedless (mostly) green table grapes which are sweet and really taste like “cotton candy”. We really like them and as a result, this time, we over did it and bought too many. A small remainder of the batch we bought was getting to the point we had to use/eat them fairly soon before they went bad. My wife decided to make a muffin using the grapes cut-up as well as pureed. She thought she could modify her “ apple pie muffin” recipe. This turned out to be quite a good muffin. The grape flavor was a bit muted but the cut-up grapes did add real grape flavors (the cut grapes shown as light green shapes in the first picture). This is unqualified success using a bit unusual ingredients for muffins.

Ingredients:
For the muffins: 
1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour,
1 tsp. ground cinnamon, 
1 tsp. cardamon
2/3 cup unsalted butter, softened,
3/4 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt; for table salt use half as much by volume
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 cup sour cream, at room temperature
1/3 cup grape puree, at room temperature.
1 to 2 cups cut up grapes

Directions:
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a 12-cup muffin tin with paper liners. Using an emersion blender puree the grapes to make 1/3 cup puree (#1).  Cut 1 to 2 cups of grapes into pieces and set aside (#2). In a large bowl with an electric mixer, beat granulated sugar and butter on medium speed until fluffy, about 4 minutes, stopping to scrape down sides as needed. Add eggs, one at a time, beating until combined after each addition, about 30 seconds. Add the sour cream and grape puree stirring to combine completely.

In a medium bowl, whisk together salt, baking powder, baking soda, flour, cinnamon and cardamon. Add cut up grapes and stir until coated with flour. Stir flour mixture into butter mixture until flour mixture is moistened. 

Spoon batter into bottom of each paper liner (#3). Bake for 5 minutes at 400 degrees. Reduce oven temperature to 375°F and continue baking until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 12 to 18 minutes, rotating pan halfway. Let cool in pan 10 minutes. (#4)

These muffins had a dense but tender texture. The grape flavor came through mostly as a mild sweetness. The cut up grapes for the most part disappeared. Maybe they were absorbed into the dough (or maybe not well distributed). Although the use of grapes was a bit unusual it worked. 

We have a quite few amaryllis which my wife keeps alive and thriving for many years. Many of them keep blossoming every year, either for Christmas or  Easter. Although she marked the amaryllis which bloomed the previous year Christmas (2023) and started tending them at Thanksgiving so they would bloom at Christmas (2024).  They remained completely dormant. Finally about a week ago they decided to bloom. Here is a pic of the flower that gave actual meaning to the phrase “late bloomer” Meanwhile the Easter ones are quickly catching up. But better late than never. We really enjoy these flowers.

Hanami #2 花見＃2

After our first hanami 花見, we were expecting bad weather and rain.  However,  luckily, we had a second nice day of hanami and I made another attempt at a hanami bento 花見弁当. This time, I filled the smaller lidded box with scattered sushi or “chirashi-zushi” ちらし寿司 made of smoked salmon, marinated “ikura” salmon roe いくらの醤油漬け(#1).

Opening the lid of the smaller box revealed scattered sushi (#2 left upper). I also served Russian marinated salmon 鮭のロシアずけ topped with ikura (#2 upper right) and herring marinated in wine sauce (store-bought) topped with sour cream mixed with the brine from the herring jar and chopped dill (#2, lower left). The smaller box without a lid, I served salmon kelp roll 鮭の昆布巻き, “kinpira gobo” 金平牛蒡 braised burdock root, mock tofu 擬制豆腐, braised spicy marinated tofu ピリカラ豆腐, braised crunchy cauliflower モンパルナスのカリフラワー and crispy marinated  enoki mushroom エノキのパリパリ焼き, skinned Campari tomato, and chicken liver simmered in red wine 鶏肝の赤ワイン煮.

I used frozen rice to make sushi rice. I just microwaved the rice until warm, added the sushi vinegar (from the bottle) mixed and microwaved a bit more to warm up. I mixed it again and let it sit for 5 minutes. It was not the best sushi rice but certainly good enough for the purpose. I marinated ikura with x4 concentrated Japanese noodle sauce overnight in the refrigerator. I first placed the sushi rice on the bottom of the small covered box then distributed ikura over half of the rice surface followed by smoked salmon (#3). I topped this with a julienne of cucumber and golden thread egg or “kinshi-ran” 金糸卵 and nori threads or “kizami-nori” 刻み海苔(#4). Since we were not expecting to have the second hanami this was a bonus and what I put together for the occasion was pretty satisfying.

Now, our main cherry tree (“somei-yoshino” 染井吉野 which has a bottle brush appearance of numerous blossoms covering the branches (foreground) and the more traditional one like depicted in “ukiyoe” painting of edo time 江戸時代の浮世絵  which is in the background are both in full bloom displaying their individual personalities in the shape and characteristics of their petals. 

Hanami 2025 花見2025

Because it got warm quickly, three of our cherry trees blossomed one after the other. The first one is dropping petals already, our main tree is in full bloom and our old tree has just started. So it was hanami 花見 time. I filled the new jubako box 重箱 with goodies for the occasion. I used the smaller box without a lid, the smaller box with a lid and two small porcelain bowls to fill each tier. One tier served one person.  I served quite a few sashimi items accompanied by soy sauce, wasabi and yuzu kosho 柚子胡椒 (#1).

The sashimi I served (#2) was bluefin tuna クロマグロ (was called “akami” 赤身 but it was more like “chutoro” 中トロ), kanpachi カンパチ” amberjack, and salmon. All came from Riviera Seafood Club. The tuna was good but kanpachi and salmon could have been better. The meat was abit too lean and could have used a bit more fat. 

In one of the bowls, I served the remaining tuna and Russian marinated salmon 鮭のロシア漬け in the shape of roses and topped it with “ikura” いくら salmon roe (#3).

I also served scallop sashimi ホタテの刺身 which was really good as always (#4).

In the covered small box (#5), I served an assortment of dishes I made as well as “uni suhto” which I did not make  ウニの酒盗 shown in a very small square bowl. Lower bottom is a salmon kelp roll 鮭の昆布巻 and mock tofu 擬制豆腐. Left upper are dashimaki egg omelet with dried nori powder or “aonori” 青海苔入りだし巻 topped with cruchy braised cauliflower.

Our second generation cherry tree blossomed nicely. The tree has grown quite a bit. It was planted after we lost the original tree in a nor’easter 7 years ago.

We started our hanami while it was still light but the fun extended into the evening and we turned on the flood lights as shown in the picture below. Even thought the sun was down It was still very warm and pleasant.

Jubako for “hanami” cherry blossom gazing 花見用市松模様の重箱

Recently, I got a new “Jubako” 重箱 which is a tiered square box with a lid for picnic like “hanami” 花見 cherry blossom gazing. I saw this at MTC Kitchen and thought this was perfect for our hanami. It has red or fuchsia and gold staggered square pattern called “Ichimatsu” pattern 一松模様.  “Ichimatsu” 一松 is the name of the “kabuki” actor 歌舞伎俳優 from Edo period 江戸時代 who wore a costume in this pattern.

A bit unusual feature of this box is that two small square boxes, one with a lid and one without, are included in each tier. The little box without the lid is shown in the picture below as #1. The one with the lid is shown in the pic with a red/gold diagonal pattern. 

Here is what the two layers of the box look like. The lidless boxes are shown with a #1 and they are touching the corner of the boxes with a red and gold colored lid. This configuration of open and closed boxes with regular uncovered spaces provides are great deal of options to artistically display the bento box food.

I am planning to have this box filled with goodies for hanami which will be the next post.

Nappa Cabbage Cream Stew 白菜のクリームシチュー

This is my effort to use up whatever we had on hand. The first item was nappa cabbage or “hakusai 白菜” I got from Weee. It was fairly big and it was time for me to start using it. We also had one link each of chicken and pork sausages which we got from a local gourmet grocery store fresh (uncooked). I boiled them few days ago. Several carrots started sprouting and needed to be used. After some thought, I decided to make “cream stew”. I did not follow any specific recipe. This was our lunch one day and it was quite good, very comforting dish. The chicken sausage flavors were apple and sage but in the stew, a subtle, pleasant spiciness which we hadn’t noticed before came out and was very pronounced. 

This is not really a recipe but notes to myself.

Ingredients: (makes about 6 servings)
6 leaves of nappa cabbage, the white stems and leaves separated. The stems halved lengthwise and then cut in an angle (“sogi-giri” or “shave-cut” 削ぎ切, see #1 in the composite on the right most side), the separated leaves (#2)  cut into about 1 inch wide
1 each chicken and pork sausages (previously boiled) cut into medallions (#3)
4 caps of fresh shiitake mushrooms, cut into small bite size
1 tbs olive oil
2-3 cups of chicken broth

For béchamel sauce** (#4)
One shallot, finely chopped (#1 on the left)
2 tbs finely chopped shiitake stems and shallot, sautéed in olive oil, seasoned with salt and pepper* (optional)
4 tbs flour
2 tbs butter
salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste
about 100 ml or so milk

*When I receive fresh shiitake mushrooms (from Weee), I separate the caps and stems. The caps are packed in a ziploc bag with paper towels which makes the fresh shiitake last longer. For the remaining stems, I cut off the very ends, then shred and finely chop them. I saute this in olive oil with chopped shallots. This concoction is handy to have for making other dishes such as mushroom risotto. 

**The usual béchamel uses same amount of butter and flour but by adding finely chopped onion/shallot  in butter before adding the flour, you can reduce the butter in half. The flour clings to the surface of the onion/shallot which prevents the flour from clumping up. No need to add the milk gradually. Just dump all at once.

Directions:
For béchamel sauce
Melt the butter in the non-stick frying pan on medium-low flame, sauté the shallot until soft, add the shiitake stems and shallot mixture and sauté for one more minute. 
Add the flour and cook until no dry flour is visible, add the milk (at once) and start mixing (first with a whisk and then with a silicon spatula) until thickened. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg and set aside (#4)
In a pan on medium flame, add the olive oil.  When hot, add the sausages and lightly brown both sides, add the cabbage stems, carrots, shiitake mushrooms and sauté for few minutes (#5)
Add the chicken broth so that the vegetables and sausages are just covered and cook 20-30 minutes.
Add the béchamel sauce and mix. Simmer fro 5-10 minutes and add the nappa cabbage leaves (#6)
Season with salt and pepper if needed.

I made the stew several hours before serving. The green color was nicely vibrant right after I finished cooking the stew but the green color faded (the top serving picture) before I could serve it. This was a rich savory stew with a complex range of flavors. The creamy texture was luxurious. The combination of the precooked shitake mushrooms and shallots was an outstanding addition to the soup. The sausage was a nice meaty addition as well. This was a very comforting soup.     

Babka Cookie Muffin バブカ クッキー マフィン

Last Christmas, we received chocolate babka as a gift. We enjoyed most of it but a small amount (a few good sized irregular pieces but mostly thick crumbs) remained in a Ziploc bag in the refrigerator. Everything was still good. Its consistency and flavor made my wife remember some cookie butter crumb muffins she made some time ago and decided to use these babka left-overs to make a babka variation of cookie crumb muffin. My task was to pulverize or batter the left-over babka into crumbs. The resulting “battered babka crumb” was very chocolatey and much more moist than we expected but was just the amount needed to make the muffins.  The resulting muffins were very good with nice chocolaty flavor. They were not too sweet even with a crumb topping. Perfect for breakfast.

Ingredients:
FOR THE CRUMB TOPPING:
1/2 cup (60g) all-purpose flour
1/4 cup (50g) sugar
pinch of salt
4 tablespoons (42g) unsalted butter, cold and cut into 1/2-inch cubes

FOR THE MUFFINS:
1 3/4 cups (210g) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup (57g) unsalted butter, softened
1/2 cup (100g) sugar
1/2 cup (140g) “battered babka crumbs”
1 large egg
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
3/4 cup butter milk

Directions:
TO MAKE THE CRUMB TOPPING:
Combine the flour, sugar and salt in a medium bowl.
Add the butter, and mix with your fingers until the mixture forms crumbs. Set aside (#3).

TO MAKE THE MUFFINS:
Preheat oven to 375°F. Line or grease a 12-cup standard muffin pan.
Whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Set aside.
Using an electric mixer on medium speed, beat the butter, sugar, and babka crumbs until thoroughly combined.
Add the egg and vanilla, and mix well. Add the milk and mix well (#1).
Add the milk mixture to the flour mixture and mix until fully blended (#2).
Scoop the batter into the muffin tins. (I used the second largest ice cream scoop).
Distribute the crumb topping over the muffin batter (#3). 
Bake 20 to 25 minute, or until the muffins are lightly browned and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean (#4). Cool the muffins in the pan for 10 minutes. Then transfer them to a wire rack to cool completely.

These muffins were quite good. They had a mild chocolately/bobka flavor. They were not too sweet and had a moist dense texture. The crumbs were literally “the icing on the top” with a slight browned butter sugar sweetness. We may have to go out and buy another babka for the next batch.

Chickpea fries ひよこ豆フライ

My wife saw this recipe for chickpea fries in the Washington Post. She then realized she had bought chickpea flour some time ago, to make an Indian dish but she never made the dish. The flour had been sitting in the freezer for some time. So, she thought this would be a good way to use the chickpea flour. She figured, the most arduous  part of making this dish was that it had to be deep fried.  But, turns out that was not a problem for her since I am the one who does the deep frying in our kitchen. In any case, this was our collaborative effort. As with any fried starch, this was very good. The outside was light but crispy and the center was creamy. These are very similar in texture to the fries we make with nagaimo (but have not posted). We did not make a dipping sauce. We did not even need salt. 

Ingredients(We halved the recipe which made about 20 fries)
1 teaspoons olive oil, plus more for greasing the parchment
2 cups water
1 cups (120 grams) chickpea flour
1/2 teaspoon fine salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Directions
Cut two pieces of parchment paper to fit a 9-by-13-inch sheet pan or casserole dish. Use a little olive oil to lightly grease one side of each piece of parchment. Place one parchment piece on the bottom of the baking sheet (oil side up) and reserve the other.

In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the olive oil and water. Just before it starts to boil, slowly sprinkle in the chickpea flour while whisking to remove many (if not all) of the clumps and form a smooth batter. Whisk in the salt and pepper and reduce the heat to low. Switch to a wooden spoon and cook, stirring constantly, until the batter stiffens and starts to pull away from the sides and/or bottom of the pan, 10 minutes.

Scoop the batter onto the greased parchment in the pan and spread it out evenly as quickly as you can (it will start to firm up as it cools). Place the second piece of paper, greased side down, on the batter and gently press to smooth it out evenly. Transfer the pan to the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes, until it has cooled and set. (we kept it in the fridge for three days before frying).

When the batter has set, remove the top paper and use a butter knife to cut the chickpea block into 20 sticks.

In our Tempura pot, heat the cirsco oil until it reaches 350F (or 180C) on an instant-read thermometer. Working in batches to avoid overcrowding, gently add the chickpea sticks to the oil and cook, turning with tongs when needed, until golden on both sides, about 3 to 5 minutes per side. Using the tongs, transfer to the rack to drain.

These were very good—crunchy on the outside silky smooth on the inside with a very subtle grainy taste. Initially they were extremely greasy but over time the excess grease got absorbed and added to the outside crispiness. We subsequently read that instead of frying they should be sautéed in a frying pan with a small amount of oil which would significantly reduce the greasiness. These crisped up very nicely in the toaster oven. 

Shrimp Chicken Gyouza エビと鶏肉の餃子

I made Ricotta and parmesan cheese meat balls from a half pound of the ground chicken we bought from the grocery store recently. From the other half, I made shrimp/chicken gyoza エビと鶏肉の餃子. I used a mixture of chicken, shrimp and cabbage as the basis for the gyoza. Somehow the shrimp took center stage taste-wise. The taste of chicken became muted and sort of disappeared leaving a nice shrimp taste and texture from the large chunks of shrimp I added. The good amount of the cabbage I added to use up the last of a head of cabbage I had in the fridge stepped back from center stage too but added a nice lighter texture. (If I wasn’t told I would never have known the chicken and cabbage were involved.)  Since I seasoned the filling rather well, the dipping sauce became optional. This is a different and great gyoza. It heated and crisped up nicely in the “toaster oven”. I made a small salad with cucumber and blanched wood ear mushroom dressed in mustard/pon-zu dressing 胡瓜と木耳のからしポン酢あえ.

Ingredients (made about 40 gyoza)
6 large shrimp, frozen,  (I used 6 large frozen shrimp, thawed, shell removed and cut into small chunks with some made more into almost paste.)
1/4 head of cabbage, core removed, finely chopped, blanched in salted water for a few minutes, moisture squeezed
1/2 tsp ground ginger
1/2 tsp ground garlic
1 tsp potato starch
1 tsp salt
1 tsp soy sauce
1 tsp sesame oil
1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
40 Gyoza wrappers (I used Myojo 明星 brand, frozen, thawed)

For cooking
1 tbs neutral oil plus a splash of dark sesame oil
4-5 tbs water

Directions:
In a large bowl, add all the ingredients (except for the wrappers) and mix well.
Separate the wrappers and moisten the half perimeter with water, add 1tsp of the filling in the center and close the wrapper (I make a half moon shape), crimp the edges in 4-5 places
Cover it with a plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to cook

Cooking
Add the oil in the non-stick frying pan on medium flame and when the oil is hot, slide in the gyoza and cook for 2 minutes or until bottom side is browned.
Flip each gyoza and brown other side (optional but we like cripsy skin on all sides)
Turn down the flame and add 4-5 tbs of water and place the lid and let it steam for 2-3 minutes
When no more steam is escaping, remove the lid and crisp up the bottom (you could add more sesame oil if you like)
Repeat for another batch

Compared to my usual pork/cabbage filling, this is lighter and with a nice delicate shrimp flavor and texture (“puri-puri” プリプリ). The myojo brand of gyoza wrappers I used was perfect because they are smaller and thinner than the square wonton skins I usually use. This delicate wrapper really let the lovely delicate shrimp flavor shine through. They crisped up very nicely in the toaster oven. 

Anchovy Onion Cocktail Biscuit アンチョビイと玉ねぎカクテルビスケット

I made “plupo al ajillo” from boiled Spanish octopus legs from D’Artagnan. They were the last of the octopus legs we had gotten from D’Artagnan. I did this since the octopus was not getting any better in the freezer and has been facing some fierce competition from the very good ones we have been getting recently from Weee. Instead of just salt I used filets of oil packed anchovy. This came out extremely well. After simmering in olive oil for 5 minutes, the octopus was very tender and the anchovy really added nice salty and umami-rich flavor. With my mini-baguette, this was a really good appetizer. 

Nonetheless after this, we were left with 4-5 more anchovy fillets. (There usually seem to be more anchovies in a can of anchovies than we can usually use). My wife came to the rescue. She found this recipe for “Anchovy onion cocktail biscuit” in the Washington Post. Given the “excess anchovy” situation and since we are big fans of savory cookies and biscuits, there was no way we could “pass”. This was a really good biscuit. It tasted so good with a glass of red wine. Caramelized onion and anchovy made this biscuit really savory and the texture was great.

Ingredients (makes 50 bite-size biscuits)

For the onions
1 medium onion (6 ounces), halved and sliced
4 anchovy fillets, minced
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (we used small amount of cayenne pepper)
1/2 teaspoon salt (adjust depending on the saltiness of the anchovy)
1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon heavy cream (we used light cream)

For the dough
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (226 grams) all-purpose flour, plus more for the counter
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
6 tablespoons (3 ounces/85 grams) unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch dice and frozen (#1 in the composite)
3/4 cup (2 1/2 ounces/71 grams) grated Gruyère cheese, plus more for sprinkling if desired (#1)
2 1/2 tablespoons (1/2 ounce/15 grams) grated parmesan cheese, plus more for sprinkling if desired (#1)
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Heavy cream, for brushing (we did not use)

Directions
Step 1
Make the onions: In a skillet over medium-low heat, combine the onion, anchovies, oil, crushed red pepper flakes (in our case cayenne pepper) and salt. Cook, stirring occasionally and adjusting the heat as necessary, until the onions are soft and golden, 30 to 45 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool, then chop the mixture. Transfer the mixture to a medium bowl, add the cream and refrigerate for about 15 minutes.

Step 2
Make the dough: In a food processor, combine the flour, baking powder and salt and pulse until combined. Add the frozen butter and process until the mixture resembles a coarse meal, about 15 seconds. Transfer to a large bowl and mix in the cheeses until combined (#1). Add the onion mixture and pepper and, using a fork, stir just until the onions are evenly distributed. The dough will be crumbly.

Step 3
Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 400 degrees. Line a large, rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

Step 4
Lightly flour a work surface, turn the dough out on it and shape it into an 8-inch square. If the dough is too dry to stay together, sprinkle it with more heavy cream, 1 tablespoon at a time, just until it holds its shape. Using a sharp knife or bench scraper, cut it into quarters. Stack one quarter on top of another so that you have two stacks (#2). Push them close together; then, using a rolling pin, gently flatten and roll it out into a 1/2- to 3/4-inch-thick square. For neater biscuits, trim any uneven edges of the dough with a bench scraper or sharp knife, reserving the trimmings, then cut the dough into 1-inch square biscuits.

Step 5
Reroll the trimmings and cut additional biscuits as needed. Working in batches if necessary, arrange the biscuits about 1 inch apart on the prepared baking sheet (#3).  Lightly brush each biscuit with heavy cream. Sprinkle them with additional gruyere or parmesan, if desired. (We didn’t do this). If your kitchen is very warm or the dough has gotten soft, chill the cut biscuits in the refrigerator for about 10 minutes.

Step 6
Bake the biscuits for 7 minutes, rotate the pan front to back and continue baking 4 to 5 minutes more, or until the tops are golden (#4). The biscuits are tender, so if the sprinkled cheese on top melts causing them to stick to the parchment, gently free them with a thin spatula before lifting them.

Step 7
Serve warm or room temperature.

These were surprisingly good biscuits.They started out with a very strong onion flavor which as they cooled down mellowed into a smooth slightly sweet carmelized onion flavor that blended well with the saltiness of the anchovy. The texture was a bit surprising. the outside was crunchy like the crust of a pie but the inside was a very soft combination of butter and cheeses.  These make great “small-bites” to go with a glass of wine.

Burdock Root Kelp Roll ごぼうの昆布巻き

We decided that salmon kelp rolls are not just for new year and started making it regularly.  We ususally get a half filet of a whole salmon which is much more economical per unit weight but you end up with a lot of salmon. The way I usually handle this is; 1. Scale the salmon skin, 2: Remove the belly portion (we have it as an appetizer, lightly salted and dried overnight in the refrigerator), 3. Remove flesh from the skin from the irregular pieces such as the both ends (From them I make salmon cakes), 4. Thinly slice and make Russian marinated salmon and 5. Cut into half inch buttons and make salmon kelp rolls, 6. When the salmon is particularly large, I also could make two small fillets.  This leaves a good amount of salmon skin. I cut the skin in a few inch rectangle and make them flat with a small sheet of parchment paper separating the each pieces and place them in a sealable plastic container stored in the fridge until I cook them

When I make salmon kelp rolls, I try to hydrate just the right amount of “Konbu” kelp and “Kanpyo” goard peel, but, often I have some extras. So, to use up the hydrated kelp and kanpyo, I made burdock root kelp rolls since I had burdock roots at hand.  I served this with slamon kelp roll, green beans with sesame dressing and crispy salmon skin as a starter one evening.

I did not follow any particular recipe. 

For burdock root, I just scrape the skin, cut into the length matching the width of the kelp.  Boil for 10 minutes, roll in the kelp and tie with the kanpyo. Then, I cooked them very similar to the salmon kelp rolls.

This is quite good. I seasoned it less sweet and a bit more salty than the salmon kelp rolls. It has a nice crunch.

Quesadilla with Mini-corn Tortilla and Browned Cheese

My wife really liked the mini corn tortilla we got from Whole Foods (#1 in the composite picture). Using this tortilla, last time we made something resembling “taco carnitas”.  This time, we made something resembling quesadilla with a bit of a twist.  This was inspired  by a Youtube episode in which melted and browned cheese was transferred to tortillas which were made into quesadilla. Since we made a mochi and mushroom dishes using the melted and brown cheese, it was not too difficult to transfer the browed cheese to the tortillas (#2 in the composite picture) to make our quesadilla. I added more cheese and small dices of roasted/Bbqed pork we had. I served this with guacamole I made a quick salsa (the first picture). This was a bit messy to eat. We ended up using folk and knife. This was very good the tortilla has nice corn flavor. The browned cheese layers made it better.

This is not a recipe but just a note for ourselves to remember.

Ingredients (for two mini-quesadillas)

Two mini corn tortillas (#1 in composite)

Two slices of low-moisture mozzarella cheese

Three slices each of sharp cheddar and smoke gouda cheese, cut int small dice

3-4 slices of roasted pork, cut into small dice

Guacamole

Salsa, sour cream (optional)

Directions:

In a dry no-stick frying pan in low flame, add the slice of the mozzarella cheese.

The cheese will melt and bubble and edges start browning after a few minutes

Place the tortilla on the top of the melting cheese and let it cook for one more minute (the cheese needed to be uniformly browned but it is not easy to judge)

Flip it over and the brown crispy layer of the cheese is attached (#2 in the composite picture)

Place on half of pork and cheeses (#3 in the composite picture)

When the cheeses start melting, fold the tortilla with a small spatula and press  and hold (#4)

After one more minute, carefully flip over and cook other side for one more minute.

Top it with the guac (and sour cream if using)  and the side of  salsa. This was perfect lunch for us.

Assorted Japanese Mini-pans 日本のミニ菓子パン各種

When I was browsing the Weee site, I came across an item called “assorted Japanese mini pan”. This category of Japanese “pan” bread is called “Kahi-pan” 菓子パン or sweet bread. “Kahi” 菓子 is a rather inclusive Japanese word which may mean candies, cake, sweets, or snacks. When this word is applied to bread, it is sweet bread and/or bread with sweet filling. The most classic is “anpan” アンパン in which sweet red bean paste or “an” 餡 is inside a round bun. While I was growing up in Japan, for whatever reason, my parents would not allow my brother and I to have “kashi-pan” in general. So my memories of having these sweet breads are non-existent. This changed when my wife discovered these Japanese sweet breads on one of our trips to Japan.  Thereafter, whenever we were in Japan, she had to have some for breakfast so we would stop at one of the  Japanese bakeries and buy some. She first found “melon-pan” followed by other Japanese sweet and savories. So when I told her an assortment of Japanese sweet bread was available at Weee she asked me to get it. Apparently, this comes from a small bakery in New Jersey called “Parisienne bakery” (#1 in the composite picture). Despite its name, this bakery appears to specialize in Japanese breads and pastries. In any case, the box came with 7 mini-pan.  We split one at a time as a part of our breakfast.

We can easily recognize a mini melon-pan (A). It tasted exactly same as a full sized.

“B” is, I think, “kuri-kinton” 栗きんとん filled. “kuri-kinton” is a classic “Osechi” 御節 new year’s dish made of mashed sweet potato and chestnuts (#6 in the composite). “C” is almond flavored custard cream filled (#5 in the composite). “D” is “an-pan” filled with smooth sweet red bean paste or “koshi-an” 漉餡 (completely smooth without any remnant of red beans). “E” is another “an-pan” filled with sweets red bean paste with some remnant of red beans or “tsubu-an” 粒餡 (#3 in the composite). “F” is a “kri-mu pan” クリームパン and filled with custard cream (#5 in the composite). “G” is, I believe, another classic  called “Chocolate corona or チョコレートコロナ” which is shaped like a whelk shell and filled with chocolate cream. I did not take a picture of the cut surface but the filling was almost solid milk chocolate (probably because we ket this bread in the refrigerator).

As far as I am concerned these Japanese sweet breads are pretty good and enjoyable, but in small doses. My wife, was absolutely delighted with the treat and has asked me get them again when we order groceries from Weee.

Ricotta Lemon Cookie リコッタチーズ レモンクッキー

I just made meat balls with Ricotta and parmesan cheeses using ground chicken instead of pork. I used only 2 tbs. from the container of ricotta. I mentioned to my wife that not only was that container open and mostly full but we were getting a back log of other ricotta cheese containers in the fridge, although luckily they hadn’t been opened. (Apparently, for some reason, every week we bought another container from the grocery store). I suggested to my wife that we should push using ricotta cheese for a while. Then, she saw the recipe of Ricotta cookies at King Arthur site. This was just what we needed and decided to make some. The original recipe used a glaze but we both agreed we did not need one. The original recipe also called for something called “ Fiori di Sicilia” which we didn’t have. But the recipe suggested micro-grated lemon zest and vanilla could be substituted for the “fiori di Sicilia” which is what she did. This turned out to be a great and not-too-sweet cookie. It has a soft consistency almost cake like rather than cookie. We had this as a part of morning breads (#1). We really liked it.

Ingredients X1
1 1/4 cups (150g) Unbleached All-Purpose Flour
1/4 cup (41g) Semolina Flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt
6 tablespoons (85g) unsalted butter, room temperature
3/4 cup (149g) granulated sugar
1 large egg, at room temperature
1 cup (227g) ricotta cheese, whole milk
1 teaspoon Vanilla Extract
Lemon zest from one lemon (micro-grated) or 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon Fiori di Sicilia*


Ingredients (X2)
2 1/2 cups (300g) Unbleached All-Purpose Flour 
1/2 cup (82g) Semolina Flour 
2 teaspoon baking powder 
1/2 teaspoon baking soda 
1 teaspoon Kosher salt 
12 tablespoons (170g) unsalted butter, room temperature 
1 1/2 cup (298g) granulated sugar 
2 large eggs, at room temperature 
2 cups (454g) ricotta cheese, whole milk
2  teaspoon Vanilla Extract
2 Lemon zest  (micro-grated) or 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon Fiori di Sicilia* 


Instructions
To make the dough: Weigh your flours; or measure them by gently spooning them into a cup, then sweeping off any excess.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flours, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Set aside.
In a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the flat beater attachment, combine the butter and sugar. Beat on medium speed until smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. (The mixture will not be lightened in color or fluffy in texture.)
Add the egg and mix until fully combined. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl and beat briefly. Add the ricotta, vanilla, and Fiori di Sicilia. Briefly mix to fully combine.
Add the dry ingredients to the ricotta mixture all at once. Mix slowly until no dry floury streaks remain. Cover the bowl or transfer the dough to an airtight container and chill for at least 2 hours, or up to overnight.
When you’re ready to bake, preheat the oven to 350°F with a rack in the center. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment.
Scoop the chilled dough into generous tablespoon portions.
Place the dough balls onto the prepared baking sheets, spacing them evenly apart (about 12 dough balls per baking sheet)
Bake the ricotta cookies for 15 to 17 minutes, until the edges of the cookies just start to turn light brown.

This was a very nice cookie. It had a soft cake like texture and the lemon flavor really came through nicely  giving it a light slightly sweet flavor. It went very well with our morning coffee. That excess of ricotta cheese won’t be around for long now that we have discovered these cookies.

P.S. Out of curiosity we bought some “fiori di sicilia” flavoring and tried it out in another batch of cookies. While the resulting cookies were very different in flavor from the ones make with just the lemon zest and vanilla, they were still very good. The flavor was much less lemon but had an intriguing somewhat floral after taste. The texture of the cookie was still moist and soft like the previous batch. Next time I may add more of the flavoring to see if I can make it a bit stronger.

Chocolate Milk Bread チョコレートミルクパン

We regularly get a catalog from the King Arthur Baking. One of them had a recipe for “chocolate milk bread”. Being a fan of Japanese milk bread, my wife decided to make it. Compared to regular milk bread, this is much more difficult to make. A direct quote from my wife: “This is the weirdest bread I’ve ever made.” The dough was especially soft and sticky having the texture of dough you would pour rather than knead. Also the instructions to mix on high speed for 20 minutes were unique. The dough did indeed get stiffer after this treatment but it was still impossible to ”fold” and “shape” as instructed. We ended up using a floured board and a baker’s scraper to form it into a loaf and placed it in a pan. It rose very high after baking but collapsed a bit after it was removed from the pan and cooled. The texture was nicely soft but chocolate flavor was muted. We like it very much but knowing the difficulty of making this, we are not sure it is worth the effort to make it again.

Note: We made a second batch of this bread and using “Common Culinary Knowledge” (CCK) we added enough flour to make a stable workable dough. We also did not knead it 20 minutes but the usual kneading time of 7-10 minutes. We also did not bother reweighing the tangzhong but used it as it came out of the pan. The resulting bread was infinitely better than the first batch and is definitely worth making again (even though no distinctly chocolate flavor comes through). 

Ingredients (X1 one loaf)
Tangzhong
2 tablespoons (11g) black cocoa
2 tablespoons (11g) Dutch- process cocoa
1 1/2 tablespoons (11g) King Arthur Unbleached Bread Flour
1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon (70g) milk, whole preferred; cold
1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon (70g) water, cold
1/2 tsp. King Arthur espresso powder (optional). (this brings out the taste of the chocolate

Dough
1 3/4 cups plus 1 tablespoon (219g) King Arthur Unbleached Bread Flour, plus more for dusting or to make the dough stable and useable. 
1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon (70g) milk, whole preferred; warm (110°F)
3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon (41g) granulated sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons (10g) King
Arthur Baker's Special Dry Milk, optional
2 1/2 teaspoons (7g) instant yeast
scant 1 teaspoon (5g) table salt
3 tablespoons (43g) unsalted butter, melted
1 large egg, beaten; divided
Scant 1/2 cup (75g) semisweet chocolate chips

Ingredients (X2) (Why make just one loaf when you can make 2 ?) We made 2 loaves
Tangzhong
4 tablespoons (22g) black cocoa
4 tablespoons (22g) Dutch- process cocoa
3 tablespoons (22g) King Arthur Unbleached Bread Flour
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (140g) milk, whole preferred; cold
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoon (140g) water, cold
1 tsp. King Arthur espresso powder (optional). (this brings out the taste of the chocolate)

Dough
3 1/2 cups plus 2 tablespoons (438g) King Arthur Unbleached Bread Flour (or however more is needed to make the dough stable and useable.  
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (140g) milk, whole preferred; warm (110°F)
6 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoon (82g) granulated sugar
3 tablespoons (20g) Dry Milk, optional
5 teaspoons (14g) instant yeast
2 teaspoons (10g) table salt
6 tablespoons (86g) unsalted butter, melted
2 large eggs, beaten;
Scant 1 cup (140g) semisweet chocolate chips (we didn’t use this)

Directions:
To make the tangzhong: In a small saucepan, whisk the cocoas, flour, milk, and water until no lumps remain. Over low heat, bring the mixture to a boil, whisking constantly, until the mixture looks glossy and thickened to the consistency of hot fudge sauce, 3 to 6 minutes. Transfer the tangzhong to the bowl of a stand mixer; it will weigh about 145g after cooking (or 284 if doubling the recipe). If your tangzhong is more than 155g, (or 310g when doubling the recipe) return it to the pot and cook it a bit longer. (We did not bother to do this with the second batch and the bread turned out just fine.)

To make the dough: Add the flour, milk, sugar, milk powder, yeast, salt, butter, and egg to the bowl of a stand mixer. Add the cooled tangzhong.

Using the dough hook, mix on medium-low speed adding additional flour as needed until a soft, sticky workable dough forms, scraping down the bowl as necessary. Increase the speed to medium-high and continue mixing until the dough almost clears the sides of the bowl (it will stick to the sides for much of the mixing time) and is smooth and elastic, 15 to 20 minutes total (We did not do this with the second batch we made, 7-10 minutes worked just fine). Every few minutes, scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, then continue mixing. Eventually the dough will strengthen enough to mostly pull away from the sides of the bowl; the dough will still be slightly sticky but significantly more manageable than it was before. Transfer the dough to a lightly greased bowl, cover, and let it rise until puffy and doubled in bulk, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

Lightly grease an 8 1/2" x 4 1/2" loaf pan or 9" x 4" Pullman loaf pan with nonstick spray or vegetable oil.
Use a bowl scraper to gently ease the dough out of the bowl onto a lightly floured work surface. Gently form the dough into two loaves. (At this point the original recipe gave complex instructions on how to fold the dough into various squares, which, given the consistency of the dough was quite impossible. It held together but was more a pouring consistency. (#1) Forming it into loaves was the best we could do.) (#2) Cover and let the loaf rise until it just crests over the rim of the pan, 45 to 90 minutes, depending on the temperature of your kitchen. (#3) (If using a 9" x 4" pan, let the dough rise until it's about 1" below the top of the pan.)

Towards the end of the rising time, preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Bake the chocolate milk bread for 30 to 35 minutes, until the loaf is fragrant, the top crust is firm, and the internal temperature is at least 190°F. Remove the loaf from the oven and cool briefly in the pan before turning it out onto a rack to cool completely.

The loaf was so soft that when we turned it out it started collapsing on itself (# 4) and we had to cool it on its side. Nonetheless once it cooled it stabilized and the soft texture was very nice. (maybe we should leave it in the pan longer before turning it out). There was almost no flavor of chocolate. We ate it for breakfast lightly toasted with butter. It is good we made this bread because it makes our library of Japanese milk breads (to the extent we know of it) complete. But there are various of the other versions we would choose to make before doing this one again.

P.S. Turns out that over time this bread has gotten better. A nice very subtle chocolate flavor has moved to the fore. The texture has also gotten firmer

Apple Pie Muffin Made with Juiced Apple アップルパイマフィン

This all started when my wife made “apple pie muffin”. Since the recipe called for “apple cider”, which we did not have, I used our juicer and made apple cider. I discarded the resulting apple pulp. My wife found out and said she could have used the pulp to make muffins like she did with carrot pulp making the carrot bread muffin. We still had a number of apples and the previous batch of muffins vanished quickly so this time, I made apple cider and kept the apple pulp. My wife made this version of apple pie muffin using both the apple cider and pulp. Why separate the  juice and pulp of apple and then combine to make muffin is a big question but it worked and she made a nice apple muffin (picture #1). Interestingly there was much more apple juice to the amount of pulp. I would say the pulp was slightly over 1 cup and the juice was over 2 cups. (So that explains why those apples were so lovely juicy.) 

Ingredients (X 1, made 12 muffins)

For the crumbs: 
1/2 cup packed light brown sugar 
3/4 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice 
1/2 cup flour 
1 1/2 tsp cinnamon 
4 tbs butter 

1 tsp. salt (optional)

For the muffins: 
Juice 3 apples. Drain the pulp (1,2,&3) and save both the pulp and the juice. 
1 to 1 1/2 cup of apple pulp.
1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour, 
1 teaspoons ground cinnamon, 
2/3 cup unsalted butter, softened, 
3/4 cup granulated sugar 
2 large eggs, at room temperature 
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt; for table salt use half as much by volume 
1/2 teaspoon baking powder 
1/2 teaspoon baking soda 
1/2 cup sour cream, at room temperature 
1/3 cup apple juice, at room temperature.

Directions: 
Prepare oven and cooking utensils: Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 400°F. Line a 12-cup muffin tin with paper liners.

Make the crumbs for the Muffins: Stir together brown sugar, pie spice,1/2 cup of the flour, and 1 1/2 teaspoons of the cinnamon in a medium bowl until well combined. Work in 4 tablespoons of the butter using fingertips until mixture is well combined and resembles wet sand. Set aside. (On a whim my wife decided to add 1 tsp. of salt. This was a remarkable improvement. The salt complemented and accentuated the sweetness of the crumbs. It also provided a surprising note of enrichment.) 

Make the batter for the muffin: In a large bowl with an electric mixer, beat granulated sugar and remaining 2/3 cup butter on medium speed until fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape down sides as needed. Add eggs, one at a time, beating until combined after each addition, about 30 seconds. 

In a medium bowl, whisk together salt, baking powder, baking soda, flour, and remaining 1 teaspoon cinnamon. Whisk together sour cream and apple juice until well combined. Stir flour mixture into butter mixture in 3 additions, alternating with sour cream mixture, until flour mixture is moistened but large flour streaks remain. 

Assembly: Spoon batter into bottom of each paper liner. Sprinkle 1 packed teaspoon brown sugar mixture evenly over batter in each muffin liner

Bake for 5 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 375°F and continue baking until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 12 to 18 minutes, rotating pan halfway. Let cool in pan 10 minutes. (#4)\

These were very good muffins and a bit less work than the previous version of apple pie muffin. It had a very tender moist texture with a subtle apple flavor. The salted crumb topping was a nice surprise accentuating the taste of the crumbs that complemented the slightly sweet apple flavor of the muffins.

Wild Rice Salad ワイルドライスサラダ

This is our on-going saga of dealing with BUB (best-used-by) date. We found a vacuum-packed package of wild rice (from Whole Foods) in which BUB was a few years ago. We opened it and decided to cook up half and see if it is OK to eat. It was OK and I made a wild rice salad (not following any particular recipe) with sweet onion, celery, pecans, and craisin (dried cranberry) and my usual honey mustard dressing.  This turned out to be quite good. We vacuum packed and froze the remaining half of the wild rice.

Cooking wild rice:
To save time, I decided to use our trusty Instant Pot. Since I never cooked wild rice in an Instant Pot, I looked it up. The information I gleaned was that the ratio of rice and liquid is 1.3 to 1 since the liquid does not evaporate in an Instant Pot. So I washed and drained 200 grams of wild rice and added 154 grams of chicken stock and cooked it on high-pressure for 20 minutes and naturally de-pressurized. The rice liquid ratio appears correct and the liquid was almost completely absorbed. But when we tasted it, it was clearly under cooked because it was still very hard (al-dente was an under statement). I ended up recooking it by adding the same amount of the chicken stock as the first time and cooking it another 30-40 minutes in a regular pan until the liquid was all absorbed. I did not add any salt but even low sodium chicken stock (Swanson’s) added enough saltiness. We liked the resulting wild rice. 

So, next time, I may increased the cooking time to 30 minutes to see if that will work better.

Making the salad:
Cooked wild rice (I used half of the cooked wild rice which is 100 gram dry weight of wild rice)
2 stalks of celery, strings removed and finely diced
Half of medium sweet onion, finely diced
1/2 cup pecans, roasted in toaster oven and chopped 
1/4 cup craisin
Zest (micro-grated) and juice of one lemon

Dressing
1 tbs Dijon mustard
1 tbs honey
2 tbs rice vinegar
6 tbs olive oil
salt and pepper to taste

Just add all the ingredients and the dressing in a bowl and mix. 

This made quite a large amount of the salad. The lemon zest and the juice added nice citrucy flavor.

Sashimi Daikon Garnish 刺身の大根つま/けん

Sashimi is usually served with garnishes called  “Sashimi-no-Tsuma 刺身のつま”. The kanji ideogram assigned to the word “tsuma” can be “妻” meaning “wife” which has a somewhat sexist tone indicating shashimi is the main character or “husband” and the garnish supporting sashimi is characterized as the “wife” supporting her husband. The alternative meaning is  “褄”  “edge” specifically in reference to the edge of Japanese kimono clothes since these garnishes are often placed at the edge of the serving plate. The “tsuma” can be thinly julienned daikon, cucumber, carrot, daikon sprout (“kaiware daikon” 貝割れ大根) and other vegetable. Other items such as perilla leaves, lemon slices, “kasisou 海藻” sea plants, edible flowers such as dandelion are also common.

Besides being decorative, there are thought to be several purposes for these garnishes: 1) to refresh your mouth, 2) help keep the sushi fresh (preservative effect) (this is attributed especially to daikon), 3) draining excess moisture away from the sashimi so it isn’t sitting in exuded moisture. Daikon garnish is especially noted for this when it is placed underneath the sashimi. But in the end, I think, being decorative and traditional are the main reasons for why the “tsuma” sashimi garnish is used.  Although eating “tsuma” is not against the etiquette (which I often do but only a small portion of it), the vast majority of “tsuma” is untouched and discarded after serving its purpose much like parsley garnish in the west.  I have seen that, in some sushi bars in Japan, after the sashimi was served, the chef will make a small hand roll of these garnishes and serve it to the guests. Some sushi bars or Izakaya may not use garnish at all or  instead of the traditional garnishes, use other green leafy vegetables.

One evening, I served a small assorted  sashimi plate (picture #1) which included tuna chutoro 鮪の中トロ, scallop ホタテ, botan-ebi shrimp ボタン海老. I also serve tuna and avocado cubes 鮪とアボカドの角切り. All came from Riviera Sea Food Club. Later I fried up the shrimp heads as tempura 海老の頭の天ぷら.  All are good but the point of this post is the “tsuma” garnish. I added the “diakon-no-ken 大根のけん” and perilla leaves from our window sill planter.

Among the “tsuma” garnishes, thinly julienned items are called “ken 劍” which means “sword” apparently from its shape. To make this properly, after the skin is peeled, the inner part is peeled into paper thin layers called “Katsura-muki 桂むき” which produce a long, paper thin sheet of daikon. This is cut into manageable size, stacked and then julienned. Katsura-muki is one of the most difficult Japanese knife skills and it is beyond me. Other alternatives are special cutters. The cheaper one is essentially a spiral cutter which does not produce a true “ken”. The more expensive cutters indeed produce “katsura-muki” and quite good “ken” which is being used in many sushi bars and Japanese restaurants in the US (and probably even in Japan since these cutters are designed and produced in Japan including commercial motorized ones).

So, when I serve  sashimi, I do not add “daikon” garnish.  Recently, however, when I was browsing the new Izakaya cook book called “Rintaro”, I found a short passage indicating you could make authentic “Daikon-no-ken” by using a regular slicer. I tried it and it worked (picture #2).

The important idea is how to preserve the direction of the fibers within the daikon. Once I figured how this would work, I tried it. I first cut the daikon into 2 inch lengths, peeled the skin, and using the Benriner slicer (#1 in the composite picture) adjusting to produce fairly thin slices, made the slices cut along the length. By slicing this way, the direction of the fiber is same as in the “katsura-kuki” sheet. I then stacked them (#2 in composite picture) and julienned along the length (#3 in composite picture). This method produces a nice crunchy consistency because it does not cut across the fibers of the daikon. Soak the julienne in cold water (#4 in composite picture) and then drain before serving. Because both slicing and julienne are done with sharp blades, the surface is shiny and the results are really good if not perfect.(Picture #2).

I am sure this is a very minor thing but I feel better knowing I can do this without mastering the katsura-muki technique. By the way, my wife and I enjoyed all of the daikon garnish.  Since we had excess of the “daikon tsuma”, I made Japanese style salad next day. I added cucumber and carrot prepared like the daikon. I made a simple Japanese style dressing mixing sweet vinegar, soy sauce (x4 concentrated noodle sauce) and sesame oil (picture #3) and served with chicken sausage with sage and apple we got from a local gourmet grocery store. The salad was nice accompaniment to the sausage and very refreshing. 

Braised Eggplant with Ground Chicken 茄子のそぼろ煮

I am always looking for a new recipe especially using eggplants. This one also came from a  chef Kasahara’s 笠原 Youtube episode. Although the original recipe calls for ground pork, I happened to have ground chicken so I made it with eggplants and ground chicken. This turned out to be a good dish and the eggplant absorbed the flavors and almost tastes like meat.  I did not add a poached egg as suggested in the original recipe.

Ingredients:
2 Asian eggplants (long and slender), stem ends removed, peeled the skin in stripes, and cut into half inch rounds
1 1/2 tbs vegetable oil with a splash or dark sesame oil
200 grams ground chicken
2 scallions, finely sliced
1 tsp minced ginger
2 tbs x4 Japanese noodle sauce
2 tbs sake
2 tsp sugar
200 ml water

(hand torn perilla leaves as garnish if available)

Directions:

Add the 1 tbs oil to a frying pan on medium heat, cut side down brown both sides for about 5-7 minutes. remove from the pan and set aside

Add the remaining 1/2 tbs oil to the same pan and add the chicken and cook for few minutes until color changes and meat crumbles into small pieces, add the ginger and cook for 30 seconds or until fragrant

Add. the sugar and cook for 1 minute until the surface of the meat becomes shiny (the original recipe calls for more sugar)

Add the sake, soy sauce or noodle sauce, water. Put back the eggplant and cook for 5-7 minutes until the liquid reduces to the point only a thin layer of the liquid remains, add the scallion and mix and shut the flame off

I thought this might be too sweet but the seasoning worked well. My wife really liked it. I will add this dish to my eggplant go-to recipe.