Neapolitan-ish pizza ナポリ風ピザ

I have been making  home-style pizza for some time first using the regular oven and a pizza stone, then, more recently, using the “Pizzaiolo” pizza oven. Although, in general, we like the pizza I make, I am always looking for ways to improve it. Recently, we got a new pizza cookbook from King Arthur called  “The Book of Pizza”. This is quite an encyclopedia on pizza. It covers pizza from classic Neapolitan and other Italian styles to American regional versions. This inspired me to do some experiments/improvements.

With is experiment version I had three goals in mind. #1. try to make the dough/crust as close as I could make it to “authentic” Neapolitan style. #2. determine wether Italian canned plum tomatoes (I got “Cento San Marzano” canned tomatoes) are better than the domestic canned ones? If so, are they worth the cost? #3. Compare “no-cook” tomato sauce (to make a classic “Pizza Margherita”) to the Marinara sauce I make using the same tomatoes for both sauces. (Rest assured that I am not going to make a classic Neapolitan cheese-less “Pizza Marinara”. We like cheese on our pizza.)

I made a pizza half with the  no-cook tomato sauce (left side) and the other half with the Marinara sauce (right side) (picture #1).  I did this so that both sides are identical except for the sauce. For both, I used low-moisture Mozzarella cheese and fresh basil from our window-sill garden.

It appeared I succeeded in making classic “cornicione” on the edge of the crust (pictures #1 and #2).

Just for my own record of what I cooked, I will post the recipe.

Pizza dough:

Ingredients: (makes 4 small pizza with dough weighing about 215 grams each with hydration of about 65%)

520 grams “00” flour (from King Arthur)

340 grams water

8 grams of salt

1/4 tsp active yeast

Directions:

In a food processor fitted with a kneading blade, add the flour, salt and yeast and mix. While the blade is turning on low speed, add the water in a steady thin stream until a dough ball forms above the blade. Let it stand for 5-10 minutes (for even distribution of moisture). Turn the food processor to low speed again to knead for another minute or two. Turn the dough out onto a flour dusted kneading board and knead for a few minutes. Then make the dough into a tight ball. 

In a large enough mixing bowl, add a small amount of olive oil to thinly coat the inside. Add the dough ball, turn to coat all the surface with the olive oil. Cover the bowl with a plastic wrap and let it ferment (bulk fermentation) for about 1 hour (I use a Brod and Tylor bread proofer at 86F). 

Fold and deflate the dough and make 4 dough balls (about 215 gram each). As with the bulk fermentation add a small amount of oil to a bowl and coat each of the 4 dough balls with the olive oil. (I generally use the bowl in which I did the initial bulk fermentation to save on the number of bowls that have to be washed.) Then put each ball individually into a small Ziploc bag. Remove as much air as possible and seal the bag. I place the Ziploc bags in the refrigerator. I will keep the dough at least over night or a couple of days. After that if I do not use the dough, I move it to the freezer.

The next day, I take the Ziploc bags with dough balls in them out of the refridgerator about 1 hour before cooking to warm them up to room temperature.

Sauces:

1. No-cook pizza sauce (“No-cook”  is not quite accurate since the tomatoes were cooked during the canning process but we do not cook it):

Ingredients and directions:

Canned tomatoes, hand torn or cut, drained. (Retain the juice that was in the can.) Place the tomatoes in a cylinder-shaped container and blend using an immersion blender. Add salt to taste. (The Cento brand we used contained sea salt and basil leaves so we did not add salt).

2. Marinara sauce:

Ingredients: 

28oz can of  Cento San Marzano tomatoes, hand crushed and liquid separated but retained 

1 medium shallot (or small onion), finely diced

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

3 tbs olive oil

1/4 tsp dried oregano

1 bay leaf

Salt to taste

Directions:

Add the olive oil in a sauce pan on medium-low flame. When heated, add the shallots sauté for a few minutes. Then add the garlic and sauté until fragrant. Add the tomatoes and the juice reserved from the can, oregano and bay leaf. Simmer for 20-30 minutes. Taste and season with salt if needed. (When I use the domestic canned tomatoes, I usually add some sugar and baking soda to compensate for the tomatoes excess acidity. This was not needed at all for the Italian canned tomatoes.)

Assembly and cooking:

I assembled the pizza as usual but payed particular attention not to deflate the edge.

I cooked it in “Neapolitan pizza” mode (it is called “Wood Fired” or about 700F) on the Pizzaiolo oven for 2 minutes.

We reach three conclusions concerning the goals I mentioned earlier:

#1. Compared to domestic canned tomatoes, the Italian Cento brand canned tomatoes we tried were much better. It is worth the higher cost.

#2.  Both of us liked the marinara sauce side of the pizza better than the no cook tomato sauce side. The marinara sauce has much more flavor. Although classic “Pizza Marinara” has no cheese, as you can see in the picture we broke with tradition because we like cheese on the pizza.

#3. The crust was soft, pillowy, and chewy. Did we like it?? We’re not sure. This sort of confirms what we said previously that “00” flour without oil in the dough was too chewy for us.  Actually, we preferred the left-over pizza we made for this experiment reheated in a toaster oven because the crust became much crisper. Lesson learned? We like a bit more crispy crust.  I may try to make New York style next.