Air Fried Chicken Wings エアーフライ手羽

This is another air frier episode. When we recently made the “teba gyoza 手羽餃子” variation with leftovers from the meatloaf my wife made, the skin browned unevenly. We wanted to try it again to see if we could make the browning of the skin on the wings more even. The package of chicken wings we got was labeled “cut pieces” and “contained both flats and drumettes”. We wrongly assumed the “flats” and “drumettes” were connected with only the wing tips cut off. But it turned out the flat and drumette pieces were cut apart. This makes stuffing the chicken wings unfeasible. In order to stuff the drumettes, it is necessary for the flats and drumettes to be connected because if they are cut apart both ends of the drumette are open and the stuffing will come out.  So, I just made unstuffed air fried chicken wings. I suppose I could have just air fried them but I decided to marinate them in a mixture of mayonnaise, ponzu shoyu and yuzu kosho which, somehow, came to my mind. I’ve used this combination, before as a dressing for “renkon” lotus root salad but this time, I used the concoction as a marinade. The marinade made the chicken meat very moist and tender. The surface layer of mayonnaise made the skin brown as if the wings were fried in oil (picture #1). The yuzu kosho added a slight spiciness and citrus flavor. As you can see both sections browned evenly. So we declare this an unqualified success, both because it browned evenly and tasted great!

Ingredients:

Chicken drumetts and flats (in our package, 4 each were included)

3 tbs mayonnaise

1 tbs ponzu soy sauce

1/2 tsp or more yuzu kosho

Directions:

In a Ziploc bag, add the chicken wings and the marinade ingredients. Massage well so that the marinade is well mixed and chicken parts are well coated. Remove the air as much as possible and close the bag. Let it marinade a few hours in the refrigerator.

I arranged the wings in the roasting pan that had a metal grate. I made sure the chicken parts were well spaced (picture #2). I air fried them at 450 F for 15 minutes. I then turned them over and cooked for another 5 minutes.

This was a great finger food. They went fast. We started with 2 pieces each but ended up eating everything.

Air Fried stuffed Chicken Wings エアーフライ手羽餃子

“Teba Gyoza 手羽餃子” is a quintessential Izakaya dish. “Teba” means “chicken wing” and “gyoza” means dumpling stuffed with vegetables and meat usually ground pork. This dish is a hybrid of grilled chicken wing (“yakitori” 焼き鳥) and gyoza. The bone (humerus) of the chicken wing drumette is removed leaving the skin intact. The resulting cavity is filled with gyoza stuffing. It is then grilled like any other “Yakitori”. Hence the combination of teba-yakitori and gyoza. It is reputed to have been invented by an izakaya in Hakata 博多, Fukuoka 福岡. Some years ago, I often made teba gyoza several different ways including cooked in the Weber grill and baked in the toaster oven.  We used to frequently make chicken wings because they were inexpensive and a fun way to eat chicken. Then, for a while they became very expensive and we got out of the habit of using chicken wings to make yakitori or “teba gyoza”.

We decided to make stuffed chicken wings again because our old toaster oven was not working well and we got a new one with an air fryer function. We thought one of the items we would like try was our old time favorite of chicken wings. I thought about making “teba gyoza” using gyoza stuffing but since my wife recently made a meat loaf I decided to stuff the wings with left over meatloaf instead of making gyoza stuffing, This was a qualified success. It was qualified because although the skin crisped up better than when the wings are just baked in a regular oven they browned unevenly.  Since the drumette part of the wing with the stuffing in it was thicker it was positioned closer to the heating element and got much darker than the rest of the wing. Although we used left over meat loaf  instead of the traditional gyoza stuffing it was still quite good. I served this with air-fried rounds of eggplant (subject of a future post) and sautéed oyster mushrooms (#1).

This a cross section view of the drumette showing the meat stuffing (picture #2). As mentioned, the skin over the drumette got a bit too high done (backened).

This shows the overall appearance of chicken wings (picture #3). Next time, I can remove the wing tips to make the stuffed part of the chicken wings lie a bit more evenly/flat to prevent uneven browning of the skin.

Ingredients:
Any number of chicken wings
meat filling either gyoza or meatloaf

Directions:
Remove the bone from the drumette leaving the skin intact. Stuff with the meat stuffing and close with a toothpick. (I did not add any oil or spices to the wings because they already have a large amount of natural fat to baste the meat while cooking.)

Cook in the air frier at 450 degrees for 15 minutes. Turn over and cook an additional 5 minutes.

These were again the fun way to eat chicken. The skin was crispy. The meat was juicy and tender. The added stuffing, in this case the meatloaf, was very flavorful. Although the stuffed portion got a bit high done it was still very good. We will be bringing this old favorite back onto the menu.

Meatloaf ミートローフ

While my wife was looking through the trusty old cookbook “Joy of Cooking”, she found a yellow stick’m in her handwriting from many years ago posted on one of the pages. It was a recipe for meatloaf which was a regular in her culinary repertoire long ago . It appears that this recipe is different from any other meatloaf recipe in the book. In general, we are not big fans of meatloaf or hamburger, but since this was my wife’s special recipe, we decided to try it for old times sake. It calls for ground beef, so we got one pound of 20% fat (we thought a bit fatty meat may be better for meatloaf) ground beef from Whole Foods. This was a pretty good meatloaf (#1). It was moist and flavorful. When it just came out of the oven it did not keep it’s shape very well when sliced but after refrigeration it held together better.

I ask my wife to expand on her special recipe. I helped her by chopping up onions and shiitake mushrooms (since we had a few left). I sautéd  them in olive oil (left upper in picture #2).

Ingredients: (Shown in picture #2)
1 lb ground beef
1/½ cups onion, chopped (optional several stems and caps of fresh shiitake mushrooms, chopped)
1 cup bread crumbs
2/3 cup ketchup,
1 tbs Dijon mustard
2/3 cup parsley
3 eggs
1 tsp ground thyme
1 tsp salt
½ tsp black pepper or cayenne
1 tbs horseradish (we used yuzukosho hot sauce)
3 tbs chopped garlic
1 cup Parmesan cheese
ketchup on top

Directions:
Mix all the ingredients together in a bowl. (It doesn’t get any easier than that). Put in a loaf pan and top with catsup (#3). Cook in a 350 degree oven for 30 to 35 minutes (until done).

This meatloaf was a colorful combination of flavors and textures.  The catsup topping caramelized and added a nice sweet/tart touch. This was a very nostalgic dish for my wife. We may have to add it back into the repertoire.

Three Eel Dishes うなぎの蒲焼料理3種類

Fresh water eel or “unagi 鰻” is a popular fish item in Japan and many restaurants specialize in eel dishes. At these specialized restaurants, eels are brought in live and prepared on site. “Kaba-yaki 蒲焼“ (eel grilled with sauce) is the most common dish with two variations of preparation and cooking* i.e., Kansai, Eastern Japan 関西 and Tokyo 東京 styles.  (Even in Japan, however, other types of restaurants may use previously prepared and frozen eel the majority of which comes from China (99 percent) and the rest from Taiwan.) Once eel kaba-yaki is prepared, two main ways of eating it is “Una-ju 鰻重” and “Una-don 鰻丼”. Both are eel kaba-yaki on rice but the former is served in a Ju-bako 重箱  (a square lacquered box) and the latter in a don-buri 丼bowl. Consequently, Una-ju is the more expensive and formal way of serving eel on rice. Una-don is the more informal way of serving eel.

In the U.S., although some eel is aqua-cultured in Maine and some restaurants may bring it in live and prepared it on site,  most of the eel is pre-packaged and frozen. The majority of this frozen eel comes from China, and Vietnam.

*For Tokyo style the filet of the eel comes from the eel’s back. It is then steamed, and grilled. For Kansai style the filet comes from the eel belly. It is then grilled without steaming. Please see here in more details.

We had a package of frozen eel kaba-yaki (11oz) in our freezer which came from Weee some time ago. We decided it was time to eat it. Since we are not big eaters and eel is quite rich, we ended up making three dishes over 3 days to finish the entire package. (Of course, we had some other small dishes along with the eel so we didn’t just eat eel for 3 days.)

The first dish I made (picture #1), is called “Wu-zaku 鰻ざく”. I posted a version of this some time ago. It is a combination of cold cucumber with julienned ginger and vinegar dressing and warmed slices of kaba-yaki eel. The cold cucumber slices counteract the rich flavor of the eel.

The next day, I made another standard or popular fail-proof eel dish called “wu-maki 鰻巻き” (picture #2). Again, I made and posted a version of this some years ago. I served this with sliced cucumber and grated daikon with soy sauce.

Finally, I made a mini una-ju ミニ鰻重 as a shime or ending dish the next evening (picture #3). I used a small square box which was a part of a larger ju-bako we used for Hanami. The traditional way of serving this is with white rice, some “unagi” sauce and the filet of kaba-yaki eel placed on top. My wife requested “sushi rice” so I used frozen rice we made some time ago when we cooked rice. After thawing and warming up the rice in a lidded silicon container in the microwave, I added some sushi vinegar (from the bottle). I mixed the vinegar into the rice and let it sit for a few minutes. Meanwhile I heated up the eel kabayaki in the toaster oven (on toast mode) until warm with the sauce bubbling. I added “sansho 山椒” Japanese  pepper powder on the top.

For us, this was the perfect ending to the meal. We spread the enjoyment of this eel over several days because too much eel is too much of a good thing. We were quite pleased with the  quality of this frozen eel kaba-yaki from China which we got from Weee.

Morning Glory Muffin 朝顔マフィン

This is by far one of the most complicated muffins, we’ve made in terms of the number of ingredients included (see #1 in the composit picture below). This appears to be a muffin traditionally served for Easter.  My wife found this particular recipe in the Washington Post when she was looking for something special to serve for Easter but didn’t get around to making it until just recently. Besides carrots, it includes raisins, canned pineapple, coconut and walnuts. This is very tender and flavorful muffin but the pineapple and coconut didn’t particularly stand out.  Probably we could have eliminated them and not noticed the difference.

Ingredients (made 17 muffins)
1/2 cup canola oil or another neutrally flavored oil, or more for the pan as needed
1/3 cup raisins
3/4 cup walnut pieces
1/2 cup unsweetened shredded coconut
1 3/4 cups whole-wheat pastry flour (may substitute 1 cup regular whole-wheat flour plus 3/4 cup all-purpose flour)
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
3/4 cup brown sugar
2 large eggs
8 ounces canned crushed pineapple with juice (1 cup)
2 medium carrots, peeled and shredded (1 cup)
1/2 cup peeled, shredded green/tart apple
1 teaspoon vanilla extract


Directions
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Brush the wells of a regular muffin pan with oil, or use paper baking cup liners. Toast the walnuts and coconut until they are fragrant and lightly browned. Let cool.

Whisk together the flour, cinnamon, baking powder, baking soda, salt and ginger in a medium bowl. Whisk together the oil, brown sugar and eggs in a separate mixing bowl until creamy and well combined. Then whisk in the pineapple and its juice. Then stir in the carrot, apple, vanilla extract and the toasted coconut and walnuts. Add the flour mixture, stirring just until it is incorporated, to form a batter. Stir in the raisins and mix until evenly distributed.

Divide the batter evenly into the muffin cups (#2). Bake for 20 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center of a muffin comes out clean (#3). Transfer the pan to a wire rack to cool.

These muffins were very moist and the flavor was complex but nothing stood out individually. As with most complex baked goods these got better with time as the flavors melded together. They are an elegant way to celebrate breakfast. We can see why this is an Easter favorite.

Honey Curry Bread 蜂蜜カレーパン

This another one of my wife’s baking projects. Recently, she re-discovered an old cookbook called “Silver Palate Good times Cookbook” which she has had for some time. (It was published in 1984).* (Back in the day, as a joke, I used to call it the “Lead Palate Cookbook”).” As she was going through the pages she came across a recipe for “Honey Curry Bread”. The combination of honey and curry powder in bread piqued her interest. This is a nice bread with honey and curry flavors coming through. The original recipe called for the dough to be braided and then made into a boule-shape. This was a bit complicated and simply done for presentation so just making it into loaves will work just fine in the future.

*She recently started revisiting the old cook books that have been resting on the shelf untouched for some time in response to an expression her friend used to say that recently came back to mind. Her friend used to say, “If you want a different outfit but don’t have the time to go to the store shop your closet”. My wife converted this to the saying, “If you want to cook something new, shop your old cookbooks.” This is because your cooking style may have changed over time and recipes that didn’t interest you in the past may be of interest in the present. This cookbook was a case-in-point.

Ingredients
1/2 cup warm water (105-115°F)
3 packs active dry yeast
3 Tbsp unsalted butter
2/3 cup honey
2 Tbsp curry powder
2 cups buttermilk
2 tsp salt
6–7 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

Directions:
Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the curry powder, and cook for 1 minute. (This essentially blooms the curry powder flavors). Remove from heat and stir in the honey. Let it cool a bit then add the honey/curry mixture to the buttermilk. Meanwhile bloom the yeast. Put  3 cups of the flour and the salt in the bowl of the stand mixer. Add the yeast and the cooled buttermilk mixture to the flour. Stir while adding additional flour until a soft dough forms. Knead the dough for 7 to 10 minutes until smooth. Place in a buttered bowl, cover, and let rise in a warm place until doubled in size. Punch dough down, divide, into 3 ropes of 1 inch diameter (#1). Braid the ropes (#2). Wrap the braids around themselves to form a bole (#3). (Or skip the braiding and just form into a loaf). Let rise again. The recipe calls for it to be baked at 375°F for about 30–40 minutes until golden brown, but as you can see in the picture it came out a bit high done (#4) so 350 may be better in the future.

This bread was very different from the bread we usually make but was extremely satisfying. The combination of curry spices with the honey gave it a complex savory but slightly sweet flavor that made a very interesting contrast. It tasted great toasted and slathered with butter.

Pork Vindaloo served in Soup Curry-style スープカレー風豚肉のビンダルーカレー

This is a serving variation of  pork “vindaloo” curry my wife made. The pork vindaloo she makes has evolved over the years mostly by how the pork is handled. The most recent iteration involves chunks of pork derived from a large skin-on, bone-in “picnic-cut” pork that I separate it into its various components . I cook the pork chunks in chicken broth (Swanson low-salt kind) using an Instant Pot pressure cooker. This cooking method produces by-far the best pork for curry. The meat becomes very tender and the broth is flavorful and contains lots of collagen from the meat. When refrigerated, the broth congeals. Using both the meat and broth in the curry makes this version of vindaloo the best my wife has made. The curry looks thick when it is cold but when it is heated up it becomes rather soupy (not like roux-based curry). This gave me an idea of how this curry could be served. In Japan, there is the type of curry called “soup curry*” which originated in Sapporo, Hokkaido 札幌, 北海道, my hometown. It became popular as a variation of Japanese curry in 2000s.

I served this curry as a light lunch and did not want to have rice with it. So, instead, I sauteed some vegetables in the manner similar to the one used to make Sapporo soup curry.  I had green beans and asparagus, both briefly steamed and skinned Campari tomatoes.Since I made “dashi-maki だし巻き” Japanese omelet, I also added a piece.  Even without rice, this was a quite filling lunch. We like this presentation. Especially, the sauteed tomato added a nice fresh taste with some acidity.

*”Soup curry” was reportedly invented in Sapporo (in a small coffee shop) in the 1970s and then spread throughout Japan in 2000s. The curry flavored soup was not thickened and vegetables are in relatively large pieces and separately deep fried without batter. The meat is usually bone-in, skin-on  chicken legs but can be any kind of meat. Rice is served separately unlike other Japanese curry in which the curry is served on the top of the rice (hence, the name; rice curry or curry rice) We had soup curry when we were in Sapporo sometime ago. It was good but that particular dish was not outstanding. The one we made here was much better.

Grape-puree Muffin ブドウのピューレのマフィン

We like grapes and often have them for dessert. Our favorites are “Holiday grapes” and “Cotton Candy grapes”. But they are not always available. For example, “Holiday grapes” are only available October to mid-December (hence the name, “holiday” grape). Cotton Candy grapes grown in California are available mid July through September. Cotton Candy grapes grown in Mexico are available April and May. In general we are not fans of generic red and green grapes so whenever we see “special” grapes with the word “sweetness” in the varietal name we try them out. That is what happened recently.

Our usual favorites were not available but we found some green grapes with a fancy name alluding to “sweetness” at Whole Foods and went for them. We were hoping they would be a potential replacements for our aforementioned two favorite grapes. Unfortunately, they turned out to be just tough skin and seeds. What little interior meat they had, although only a small proportion of the whole grape, was indeed quite sweet. But in general, by our standards, these were not good eating grapes.

Not to be deterred, my wife remembered her recent experience making strawberry muffins using a fresh strawberry syrup reduction. She thought, ‘why not try the same thing with these grapes?’ Making them into a grape syrup reduction would eliminate the tough skin and numerous seeds because they would be strained out when the cooked grapes were sieved. Wouldn’t that highlight and accentuate what sweetness the grapes had in their interior meat?’ So that is what she did. Turned out it worked.

Ingredients:
Grape muffin:
1 1/2 cups (180g) cake flour
1 cup (198g) granulated sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon tabler / salt
6 tablespoons (85g) butter, at room temperature
1 large egg
1 large egg white
3 tablespoons (43g) water
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/2 cup grape reduction

Grape reduction:
Package of sweet eating grapes, cooked, pureed, strained, then reduced

Directions:
For the grape reduction:
Put the grapes in a saucepan. Gently heat them on simmer until the skins open releasing juice and interior meat. (These grapes took a very long time to open; the skins were really thick and tough). After the grapes open and exude liquid puree and strain them. (We used a motor boat blender). Return the puree to the pan a continue simmering on low heat until the liquid reduces and turns darker and slightly thicker. (This further concentrates the flavor.)

For the cupcakes: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a muffin tin with baking cups. In a cuisine art blender fitted with a blade combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Add the butter and mix at low speed until the mixture looks sandy. (Similar to making biscuit dough). Beat in the egg, the extra egg white, water, and vanilla, then mix until no dry spots of flour remain. The mixture will be thick. Add 1/2 cup of the grape reduction. Continue to mix on low speed until the batter is smooth. Spoon the batter into the prepared muffin tins.

Bake the cupcakes for 18 to 20 minutes, or until the cake springs back when lightly touched. Remove the cupcakes from the oven, and as soon as you can handle them, remove them from the pan and transfer them to a rack to cool.

This was a great muffin. It had a very refined texture and elegant flavor that was somewhat mysterious. Unlike the strawberry muffins which announced their strawberry-ness very assertively these muffins had a lovely fresh flavor that indicated they were made with fresh fruit but the actual fruit’s identity was not announced flavor-wise although it had a very light natural but rich sweetness. It did not particularly taste grape-like but these were, without a doubt, one of the best muffin we ever made. This distinctive flavor may be unique to the type of grape we used. Unfortunately neither of us payed particular attention to the grapes name so we may not be able to reproduce it again. Nonetheless, we wanted this post for our record.

Norwegian Lefse Flatbread ノルウェイのレフシイ フラットブレッド

Whenever we do barbecue/roast in the Weber grill, we cook potatoes and parsnips with the meat. When we roasted pork last time, we ended up with good amount of mashed potato-parsnip. Although making croquets from the left-over potatoes is the usual way to handle this, we had excess frozen croquets in the freezer.  So, my wife looked for a recipe on the internet  to use up the potatoes. She came up with this “Norwegian Lefse Flatbread”. We had these as “lefse” roll-ups with smoked salmon and cream cheese as a lunch. I happened to make cucumber and onion salad earlier which made a perfect side (picture #1).

We made just three (picture #3). The texture is more potato than bread. Not much flavor from the mashed potato/parsnips came through. This is certainly an interesting dish and the recipe is extremely simple (involving only potatoes and flour) but having tried it once we probably won’t repeat it.

Ingredients:
1 cup Mashed Potatoes (about 8.5 ounces/240 grams fresh potatoes)
1 cup all-purpose flour (Plain Flour + extra for dusting (about ½ cup))

Directions:
Place the flour and potato mash onto the work surface. Start bringing the ingredients together to form a sticky dough. Roll this into a sausage and cut into several pieces about 2 inches long. Form each piece into a round shape. Cook on medium to high heat in a dry frying pan for about 2 minutes (1 minute per side) or until done. Best served right away while still warm.

Walnut Cheddar Loaf くるみとチェダーチーズのローフ

This is another one of my wife’s baking projects. She saw this recipe on the Washington Post web site. She was intrigued by the use of pulverized walnuts in the dough like a type of nut flour combined with the grated cheese. She wanted to see how that would taste. This is definitely a unique bread (in a good way) (#1). It is fairly dense in texture but has a nice rich nutty flavor for the pulverized walnuts with a hint of the cheese flavor. We had this as a part of the breakfast lightly toasted.

Ingredients: (makes one 8-inch loaf)
6 tablespoons (85 grams) unsalted butter, cut into chunks, softened, plus more for the pan
1 1/2 cups (188 grams) all-purpose flour
1/2 cup (63 grams) whole-wheat flour
2 teaspoons granulated sugar
1 teaspoon ground mustard
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/8 teaspoon fine salt
4 ounces (113 grams) grated sharp cheddar cheese 
1/2 cup (60 grams) chopped walnuts 
2 large eggs
1 cup (240 milliliters) well-shaken whole or low-fat buttermilk

Directions:
Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 375 degrees. Lightly grease an 8-by-4-inch loaf pan. In a food processor, combine the flours, sugar, mustard, baking powder, baking soda and salt, and pulse 4 to 5 times to blend. Add the butter and process for 15 seconds to form a crumbly mixture.
Add the cheese and nuts to the food processor. Pulse until incorporated.

In a liquid measuring cup lightly beat together the eggs and buttermilk until combined, then pour into the food processor. Process until a thick batter comes together.

Transfer the batter to the prepared pan and use an offset spatula or a moistened flexible spatula to smooth out the top. Bake for about 40 minutes, or until a skewer inserted into the center comes out clean. Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let rest for 15 minutes.

This is a very satisfying and filling bread. One piece goes a long way. (You are eating a lot of nuts although you might not notice it because they form part of the flour.) It toasts up nicely and makes a very nice bread for breakfast.

Rice Krispies Pancake ライスクリスピーパンケーキ

This is the continuation of the rice Krispies saga; my wife’s effort to put a dent in the huge box of Krispies we bought to make rice Krispies treats. (Which, by-the-way are still not forthcoming).  She found this recipe on the  Canadian rice Krispies web site. Initially we thought it was a-sort-of “Dutch Baby Pancake” variation but the edge did not rise and it had a texture more like a dense regular pancake. She served it topped with fresh strawberry sauce which worked well (#1). Nonetheless we do not see the point of using rice Krispies like this except to empty the gigantic box of Krispies recently bought. We prefer the Dutch baby we usually make.

Ingredients: (#2)
375 mL (1 1/2 cups) Rice Krispies Cereal
15 mL (1 tbsp) butter
3 eggs
250 ml (1 cup) milk
125 ml (1/2 cup) all-purpose flour
1 ml (1/4 tsp) salt
5 ml (1 tsp) sugar

Sauce:
Fresh strawberries hulled and sliced then whirred into puree using an immersion blender. (No sugar added) 

Directions:
Heat oven to 425°F. In a blender, combine cereal, eggs, milk, flour and salt. Blend until smooth. Melt the butter in the iron skillet. Pour the cereal mixture into the skillet. Put the skillet in the oven and bake about 15 minutes or until golden brown and puffed. Cut into wedges and serve immediately.

This was not a bad pancake. There was a residual sweetness and taste of the Krispies which was pleasant. The fresh strawberry sauce really brought the pancake to life. By-the-way no rice Krispies treats have materialized. Still waiting…patiently.

Shrimp and Scallop Rice Krispies Bites エビとホタテのライスクリスピーボール

Some time ago, my wife got a great big box of rice Krispies cereal (and mini marshmallows). Her reason was that, as a kid, she used to like “rice Krispies treats”. Recently, she purchased some from the grocery store but thought they were not as good as she remembered. So, she wanted to make some herself from scratch thinking they should be better than the ones she just bought. (I could enjoy some homemade rice Krispie treats too, since I was “deprived” of the experience as a kid; they were not part of my Japanese childhood).

We were not sure how much rice Krispies would be needed to make the treats so we got the “big” box…it was gigantic. Over some time, no Krispie treats were forthcoming.  I started teasing her about the huge box of Krispies in the pantry and would she need all of that for the treats? In response she went to the rice Krispies website  and found a few recipes she wanted to try and thought would reduce the volume of Krispies we had. This is one of those recipes. Of course there were a few modifications. The original recipe called for shrimp and crabmeat but we did not have crabmeat. We did, however, have frozen bay scallops which we had used to make salmon pate. So we substituted the scallops for the crab.  I made a sauce with Greek yogurt, mayonnaise yuzu juice (from the bottle) and Japanese not-so spicy spicy chili oil with garlic bits. The final dish is shown in (#1). It was quite a nice savory bite with a little crunch on the crust courtesy of the rice Krispies.

On the cut surface, you can see some scallop but the shrimp became a binder and disappeared (#2).

Ingredients:
For the fish bite:
30 mL (2 tbsp) grated Parmesan cheese
175 g (6 oz) bay scallops, thawed, finely chopped
125 g (4 oz) cleaned raw shrimp, finely chopped
 500 ML (2 cups) rice Krispies cereal crushed
2 egg whites, or 1 egg
50 ml (1/4 cup) finely chopped celery
30 ml (2 tbsp) low-fat mayonnaise
2 ml (1/2 tsp) dijon mustard
1 ml (1/4 tsp) cayenne

For the sauce
3 tbsp greek yogurt 
3 tbsp mayonnaise
30 ml (2 tbsp) Dijon mustard
yuzu juice to taste
Japanese  chili crunch oil (“taberu-ra-yu” 食べるラー油”)

Directions
In a small bowl mix together 1/2 cup of the crushed cereal and Parmesan cheese and set aside. In a large bowl, combine the scallops, shrimp, remaining cereal, eggs, celery, mayonnaise, mustard and cayenne until thoroughly mixed. Scoop out part of the mixture using the second to smallest ice cream scoop and form into balls. Roll balls in the crushed cereal mixture. Place on baking sheet covered with parchment paper. Bake at 350°F about 10 minutes or until lightly browned. Serve with sauce. 

Sauce: In small bowl, mix together mayonnaise, greek yogurt, mustard, yuzu juice and Japanese chili crunch oil.

The sauce really sets this fish bite apart from ordinary. The Krispies bite itself was really good. But my comment was “why do you need to use rice Krispies?” We could have made this using panko bread crumbs. Nonetheless this is certainly a nice appetizer. Also, after all this, the rice Krispies treats are still not forthcoming. Still waiting…patiently.

Roasted Carrot Soup にんじんスープ

We found a bag of carrots in the fridge which needed to be used soon. My wife came up with the idea of making a carrot soup.  My usual method of  making “vegetable potage/soup” is to sauté some onions with other aromatics. Then adding whatever vegetable I am using as the basis for the soup to the pan for a quick sauté. (I may also add potato if I think the soup will need to be thickened which is what I do for asparagus soup, for example.) I add chicken broth and some herbs and simmer until the vegetables become soft. I blend the cooked vegetables into soup using an immersion blender. I add cream before serving. My wife looked up recipes for carrot soup and came up with the idea of roasting the carrots in the toaster oven. In addition she suggested sautéing the onion in brown butter. The roasting enhanced the flavor of the carrots by intensifying their sweetness and the brown butter added some nuttiness.  We had the soup cold for lunch topped with a dollop of sour cream (#1).

This was a part of our lunch with beef tongue sandwich and potato salad (I added thinly slices mini-cucumber dressed in sushi vinegar to the potato salad just before serving.)

Ingredients:
1 lb fresh carrots peeled and cut as seen in #3, coated with olive oil and seasoned with salt
One large onion, diced finely
2 tbs butter
2 cups or more chicken broth (this time we used the simmering liquid from when we cooked the beef tongue)
1 bay leaf
1 tsp grated ginger
salt and pepper to taste

Directions:
Bake the carrots at 350F for 30 minutes until soft and surface starts caramelizing.
Melt the butter in a pan and let it brown for several minutes.
Sauté the onion for a few minutes. Add the roasted carrots and the broth.
Add the bay leaf and the ginger and simmer for 30 minutes.
remove the bay leaf and blend until smooth using an immersion blender.
Season to taste.

Before serving add milk or cream to the thickness you prefer 
Add a dollop of sour cream (optional)

This was a good way to use up our gett’en-old carrots.

Lemon Ricotta Cake レモン、リッコタチーズケーキ

This is another one of my wife’s baking projects. She saw this recipe on the King Arthur web site. She thought the use of “00” flour, (which I use to make pizza dough), was intriguing. Being the generous man I am, I gave her access my stash of  “00” flour. This was a good investiment on my part, the cake was very light and fluffy and the “Fiori di Sicillia” flavoring gave a nice lemony flavor. The cake was not too sweet and perfect for our dessert.

Ingredients:
Cake
1 1/2 cups (174g) “00” flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon table salt
8 tablespoons (113g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup (198g) granulated sugar
zest of 1 lemon
3 large eggs, separated
1 cup (227g) ricotta cheese, whole preferred
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/8 teaspoon “Fiori di Sicilia”, optional

Glaze (We did not use)
2 tablespoons (28g) lemon juice
3 tablespoons (43g) coarse sparkling sugar or 3 tablespoons (34g) turbinado sugar
1/2 cup (57g) confectioners' sugar

Directions:
Preheat the oven to 400°F with a rack in the center. Line the bottom of an 8" cake pan with parchment and grease the bottom and sides.

To make the cake: In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the flat beater, beat together the butter, sugar, and lemon zest on medium speed until light and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Scrape down the bowl. Add the egg yolks, and beat until combined, about 1 minute. Add the ricotta, extracts, and dry ingredients and beat on low until no dry streaks remain.

In a medium bowl, whisk the whites until very frothy, 1 to 2 minutes (no need to reach soft peaks).

Scrape down the sides of the bowl with the batter and pour in the egg whites. Mix on medium speed, scraping down the sides as needed, until the batter becomes smooth (it will be quite gloppy at first). Finish mixing by hand if necessary to make sure everything is incorporated.

Transfer the thick batter to the prepared pan and smooth it into an even layer. (A small offset spatula is a helpful tool here.)

Bake the lemon ricotta cake for 20 to 25 minutes, until deeply golden, then tent with foil and bake for 8 to 10 minutes. The cake is done when it’s set, has pulled away from the sides of the pan slightly, and springs back when lightly pressed. Remove the cake from the oven and let it cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. (#2)

If using the glaze: In a small bowl or liquid measuring cup, whisk together the lemon juice and sugars until no dry confectioners’ sugar remains.

Turn out the lemon ricotta cake onto a wire rack and set the rack atop a plate or parchment-lined baking sheet. Pour the glaze evenly over the top of the cake, encouraging it to reach all the way to the edges.

Let the lemon ricotta cake cool until the glaze is set, about 30 minutes. Serve it slightly warm or at room temperature, with macerated fruit if desired.

This is one of the most elegant cakes we’ve made. It is extremely light, slightly sweet with a rich lemon flavor. The method of using the mixer to stir the egg whites into the batter was a first. My wife was surprised at how well it worked and that the egg whites did not deflate. She said she will keep this method in mind for other recipes using whipped egg whites.

Pan-fried Grits Cake フライパンで焼いたグリッツケーキ

This is an off-shoot of the “Cheese grits casserole” my wife made. Realizing these grits cakes were basically the same texture as traditional cheese grits just shaped differently she got the idea they could be removed from the ramekins they were cooked in, cut into pieces and pan fried. Initially I had doubts the  process she suggested would be possible but as shown in picture #1 we managed it. They were firm enough for her to remove them from the ramekins. Then she asked me to slice the cakes into rounds. Using a thin long fillet knife coated with oil, I was able to slice them (picture #2). To pan fry the rounds, I first dusted both sides with flour and then fried them. This added a nice crunchy crust and they were better than the original form. We had this as a light lunch with a salad made of baby arugula, green beans (pre-steamed), skinned Campari tomato topped with home made cheese curd my wife made, dressed with honey-mustard dressing.

Next time, we’ll probably prepare them this way by cooking them in a baking dish or a small sheet pan so that it is easier to cut into squares for pan-frying.

Beautiful spring season. The iris are in full bloom. What a joy!

Mini Cheese Grits Casserole ミニグリッツキャセロール

Recently we purchased a box of grits to make a dish of shrimp and grits. But the quantity of grits we used to make that dish didn’t make a dent in the large amount of dried grits remaining in the box. So my wife took it upon herself to find a way to use up some of it.  She found this recipe at Southern Living web site. The original recipe was for a make-ahead breakfast dish for a large crowd. The idea was to basically put the dish together the day before so the next morning all that had to be done was to cook it in the oven. After looking at the quantity of ingredients called for in the recipe we decided that we were definitely not feeding a crowd that big so we significantly reduced the the size of the recipe. Also, since we were not going to be eating it for breakfast we saw no need to make it up a day ahead and store it in the fridge overnight.  We had it as a lunch with salad which included my wife’s home-made mango chutney seasoned cheese curd. This turned out to be a variation of standard cheese grits but in a more elegant individual presentation. It was quite good although next time we thought we could reduced the amount of cheese a bit.

Ingredients
2 1/4 cups broth 

3/4 cup uncooked quick-cooking grits
1 teaspoons salt, (divided, 1/2 in the grits, 1/2 in the egg mixture) 
1/2 cup half-and-half (or buttermilk)
1/2 teaspoon dijon mustard
1/8 teaspoon cayenne 
1 large egg
4-6 ounces sharp Cheddar cheese, shredded
several teaspoons of sauteed shallots and mushrooms.  

Directions
Bring broth to a boil in a medium saucepan over high. Add grits and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Reduce heat to medium-low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until grits are thickened and tender, about 5 minutes. Remove pan from heat; cover and let stand 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, whisk together half-and-half, mustard, pepper, eggs, egg yolk, and remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Stir in grits and cheese until cheese is melted. Divide mixture evenly among the ramekins. (We used 4 small and 3 medium sized ramekins as shown in pic #2). Preheat oven to 350°F. Bake in preheated oven until puffed and edges are set, about 20 to 25 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes.

These were quite good. Lots of rich flavor with the cheese and shallot mushroom mixture adding a lot of depth. The cayenne pepper added a nice bright note. My wife noted that next time she would just make it in a baking dish and then cut it into square pieces for serving. What ever the presentation this makes a mighty fine “side” for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. 

Duck Leg Confit アヒルのもも肉のコンフィ

My wife found several packages of frozen duck fat in the freezer which we had used to make confit of duck legs some years ago.  Although we removed any solids from the fat after use and promptly froze it, it was getting old. So my wife issued an edict: “either we use the fat to make duck confit or we throw it away”. Fortuitously I noticed that Weee had frozen duck legs on sale so I ordered them.  They came as a  package of two legs and we were “in business”. As we did before, we used a slow cooker for the confit rather than the more traditional low-temp oven method.  Since there were only two legs, we used a small slow cooker we had and they fit just perfectly and the duck fat just covered them.

The confit process finished in close to 4 hours. Although we read that the confit legs could be stored in the fridge in the congealed fat for up to a month we didn’t have to do that because we ate them that night for dinner. I removed them from the liquid fat and browned the skin just before we ate them. The meat was so tender, flavorful and came off the bone easily. The skin was nicely crisp. I sautéed  green beans and broccoli (both pre-steamed) seasoned with salt and pepper. For carbohydrate, we served a piece of the mini-baguette I baked some days ago (it was frozen and then toasted). With a good Cab, this was nice dinner plate.

There is nothing particularly different from the previous post, I repeat it just for our convenience sake.

Ingredients:
2 duck legs, frozen and thawed
2 cups (or enough to submerge the legs) rendered duck fat
1/2 tsp dried thyme (or sprigs of fresh rosemary or thyme if you have them, (our poor rosemary in the herb garden did not survive the hash winter we had))
1 tps Kosher salt
3-4 cloves of garlic, crushed

Directions:
The night before, season the duck. In a sealable container just snugly fit two legs (or how many legs you are using), sprinkle half of the salt and dried thyme on the bottom, place the legs in the container without over lapping,  add salt and thyme on the skin side add the crushed garlic cloves, cover and refrigerate over night.

Next day, turn on the slow cooker to low and add the duck fat (in our case frozen blocks) until just melted (1 hour or a bit more). 

Remove any excess salt and herbs from the surface of the legs and submerge into the duck fat without overlapping, transfer the garlic to the duck fat and let it cook for 3-4 hours until the meat retracts from the bone

Remove the legs and brown the skin in the frying pan (without oil since the surface of the legs are coated with rendered duck fat) for several minutes and turn over and cook for one more minute. I added the broccoli and green beans in the same pan and seasoned with salt and pepper.

The duct fat was perfectly OK and the confit was perfect but we decided to put the duck fat to a well deserved rest. Next time we make duck leg confit we will have to get fresh duck fat.

Stir-steamed “Kimpira gobo” Burdock-root 蒸し炒め金平牛蒡

This is a variation of the ubiquitous braised burdock root dish “kimpira gobo” 金平牛蒡. The most common way to make this dish is to first stir-fry the vegetables in oil. Optionally this would be followed by adding a small amount of water to the pan and letting it steam with the lid on, then seasoning with soy sauce and mirin.  One thing I did not like about this method was the way the oil splattered when the burdock was being stir-fried. I recently saw on YouTube that instead of stir frying in oil, the same effect could be achieved by “stir-frying” in water or by “stir-steaming”; i.e. “mushi-itame 蒸し炒め. Although I did not have the exact recipe, I improvised making it the way I thought would work and the dish came out really well. Later I re-found the YouTube episode from which I got the ideal of stir-steaming and it turns out I did almost exactly what was suggested in the video. I think I will make kimpira using the stir-steamed method from now on.

Ingredients: (amounts are arbitrary)

1/3 of the “gobo” burdock root, skin scraped off using the back of a knife, thinly sliced on bias (on angle), then julienned, and soaked in cold water until used.

1 small carrot, skin peeled and julienned like the burdock

2 tbs mirin

2 tbs soy sauce

1 tbs dark sesame oil

Directions:

Drain the burdock. Add the burdock and carrot in a cold frying pan, put on medium flame and stir for a few minutes until the residual water on the veggies is mostly evaporated. (If the amout of water on the burdock is not enough to soften the burdock add a bit more water).

Add the mirin, stir then add the soy sauce stir until almost no liquid is left, taste and adjust the seasoning

Turn off the flame, add the sesame oil and white sesame seeds and mix.

Initially, I thought the sesame flavor was strong, but it calmed down when the dish cooled. I could not tell the difference between the stir-frying and stir-steaming method in the texture and taste of the final kimpira dish. But the major difference was much less splatter mess. 

 

Strawberry Cream Cheese Cupcakes 苺とクリームチーズのカップケーキ

When we went to Whole Foods the other day. my wife picked up a package of fresh strawberries. After coming home, I asked why she got the strawberry. Her answer was, “To make Strawberry Cream Cheese Cupcakes”.  She saw the recipe on the King Arthur Baking site. She showed me the recipe and my one thought was ‘this is a very long and complicated recipe’. Of course she significantly deviated from the original. The appearance of the cupcakes is not as pretty as in the picture of the original recipe but this tasted pretty good. We had it as a part of our breakfast.

Ingredients
Strawberry reduction 1 pound (454g) of fresh strawberries
3 tablespoons sugar, (2 tablespoons to use when first cooking the strawberries. You can use more or less depending on how sweet the strawberries are.) (The remaining 1 tablespoon is used for the strawberries when they are thickened with the cornstarch.)
1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch (1/2 teaspoon Instant Clearjel ) My wife used cornstarch
2 teaspoons lemon juice (optional)
There will be about 1 cup of strawberry reduction after it is cooked 

Strawberry cake 
1 1/2 cups (180g) cake flour
1 cup (198g) granulated sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon table salt
6 tablespoons (85g) butter, at room temperature
1 large egg
1 large egg white
3 tablespoons (43g) water
2 teaspoons vanilla extract 
1/2 cup (130g) strawberry reduction, from above. (This will leave about 1/2 cup of the reduction to use for other dishes)

Filling and frosting

One 8-ounce package cream cheese
1/2 cup ricotta cheese
1 egg yolk from the separated egg above
1 Tbs. honey (or to taste)
1 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract 
pinch of table salt

Directions:
To make the strawberry reduction: Rinse the strawberries, remove their leaves and stems, then dice; you should have approximately 3 cups (about 400g) of strawberries at this point. Transfer the strawberries to a medium pot and add 2 tablespoons (25g) sugar; mix to combine. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the strawberries have released their juices and softened, 3 to 5 minutes.

Using an immersion blender, purée the strawberry mixture off the heat, and then return it to the stove. You should have approximately 1 1/2 cups (about 370g) of strawberry liquid. Bring the mixture to a low boil over medium heat and continue to stir for 6 to 8 minutes. The mixture will become foamy, slightly thick, and darker in color. 

In a small bowl, stir together the remaining 1 tablespoon (12g) sugar and cornstarch (or Instant ClearJel.) Add to the strawberry mixture, followed by the lemon juice (if you are using it) and continue stirring at a low boil for 1 minute. The mixture should thicken. 

Remove the pan from the heat and allow the mixture to cool to room temperature. You should have approximately 1 cup (about 275g) of strawberry reduction at this point. The strawberry reduction can be made up to 5 days in advance. If making in advance, store in an airtight container in the refrigerator until ready to use. 

To make the filling   
In the bowl of a stand mixer with a flat beater add the cream cheese and ricotta. Mix until completely blended and smooth. Add the honey, egg yolk, vanilla and salt and mix until fully incorporated. Set aside.

To make the cupcakes: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a muffin tin with baking cups. In a cuisine art blender fitted with a blade combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Add the butter and mix at low speed until the mixture looks sandy. (Similar to making biscuit dough). Beat in the egg, the extra egg white, water, and vanilla, then mix until no dry spots of flour remain. Stop the mixer and scrape the bowl and beater attachment(s) as needed; the mixture will be thick.

Add 1/2 cup of the strawberry reduction (this will leave a remaining 1/2 cup to use for something else). Continue to mix on low speed until the batter is smooth. Stop to scrape the bowl and then mix again at low speed for 30 seconds. Spoon the batter into the prepared muffin tins. Make a small divot in the batter and fill it with a scoop of the cream cheese filling. (There may be cream cheese filling in excess. Just add it to a mini cupcake pan lined with paper cups and cook them along with the assembled cupcakes to make little sweet cheese bites.)

Bake the cupcakes for 20 to 24 minutes, or until the cake springs back when lightly touched. Remove the cupcakes from the oven, and as soon as you can handle them, remove them from the pan and transfer them to a rack to cool.

These cupcakes were very different from anything we’ve made before. They have a lovely pervasive strawberry taste and the texture is very moist. The cheese filling adds a different texture and a contrasting slightly sweet flavor (from the honey) and a richness (from the cheese). In general cream cheese doesn’t melt but contracts and becomes firmer when cooked. As you can see from the pictures this is what happened with these cupcakes. The cream cheese filling lost moisture during the cooking and contracted into the divot it filled in the batter making hole in the center of the cupcake. Nonetheless the cheese added a very good taste dimension to the muffin. As an aside, the strawberry reduction was very good in its own right and can be a very versatile sauce to use for many other purposes.

Addendum:  My wife made these cupcakes again and this time she did not fill them as shown in the next picture. They were extremely good this way. The bright strawberry flavor really shown through. They had a very light texture and the strawberry flavor lingered on the tongue. These are definitely a “favorite”. 

Vegetarian Buttermilk Panna Cotta ベジタリアンバターミルクパナコタ

My wife was planning on serving “buttermilk panna cotta” for dessert the night we were having a Hanami celebration with our friends. Then she realized one of the guests was vegetarian so she could not use “gelatin” to make the panna cotta as she usually does. She remembered that in the past we had gotten agar-agar powder to use instead of gelatin for just such a situation. Luckily I was able to locate it quickly in the pantry. She then remembered, that the last time she used it the desert she made was a failure because it did not jell. So she went on the web to see how to use agar as a substitute for gelatin. She discovered that the agar failed the last time because she just treated it like it was gelatin.  From her web search, she discovered that agar is quite different. The quantity of agar can not be directly substituted for gelatin on a one-to-one basis; 1 teaspoon is agar powder typically replaces 1 tablespoon of gelatin. In general agar makes the panna cotta firmer with less melt-in-the-mouth feel than geletin so less agar must be used to make it creamier.  In addition, agar must be completely dissolved, rather than just “bloomed” in cold liquid before heating. Most importantly, it must be heated for considerably more time than gelatin to become activated. My wife found several recipes/instructions on the web and the resulting panna cotta was a complete success. If you were not told you could not tell the difference between the panna cotta made with agar and the one she usually makes with gelatin.

Ingredients:
1 1/2 cups light (or heavy) cream
1 1/2 cups buttermilk
1/2 + 1/8 tsp agar (it has to be completely dissolved in cold liquid)
1/2 cup sugar (or to taste)
1 tbsp vanilla extract 
A pinch of salt

Directions:
Hydrate the agar: In a medium saucepan, whisk the agar powder into the cold cream and let it sit for 5-10 minutes to soften. Heat and Activate: Bring the mixture to a simmer over medium heat, stirring constantly. Once it simmers, continue to boil gently for 1-2 minutes to ensure the agar is fully activated. Remove from the heat and stir in the sugar until dissolved. Allow the mixture to cool slightly (to avoid curdling), then whisk in the vanilla and buttermilk.

This panna cotta was quite a success. There was a bit of a learning curve involved but it was worth it because vegetarian panna cotta is now a viable option for future vegetarian desserts.