Friday, September 25, 2020

Mackerel ball soup with myoga flowers 鯖のつみれ汁と茗荷の花

We used to get whole Spanish mackerel 鯖 or サワラ at Whole Foods but recently it has not been available.  We discovered we could get mackerel as well as many other asian food items from a local Korean market called “HMart”.  Although their main focus is Korean food, they also carry Japanese food items that are not available elsewhere. In this time of Covid, we are using a delivery service (Instacart) to "shop" HMart and it has opened new horizons for us. 

One weekend, we got 2 lbs. of Spanish mackerel which consisted of one large and one small mackerel. As usual, I prepared the fish "san mai-in-orosu” 三枚におろす meaning into three layers i.e. two filets and the remaining bone. I removed the small pin bones from the filets.  I made most of the larger mackerel filets into miso-simmered mackerel 鯖の味噌煮. With the filets of the smaller mackerel, I made a salted and grilled mackerel dish 鯖の塩焼き(subject of a future post). 

The third and final part of the preparation involved the remaining bone. I removed the meat clinging to the bones by scraping it off using a small spoon. (This is a classic Japanese technique used mostly for tuna to make sure no meat of the fish is left behind). I made the scrapings into fish balls for our usual fish ball soup or 鯖のツミレ汁 which I served as lunch one day. I rounded out the soup by adding Japanese udon noodles (we happened to have noodles already cooked), silken tofu I got from Tako Grill (beside take-out, tako grill now sells some Japanese groceries), shiitake mushrooms and topped it with myoga flowers we just harvested and freeze dried “mitsu-ba” ミツバwhich was also from Tako grill.


Unfortunately, you cannot see the fish balls because they sank to the bottom.


Although the freeze dried mitsuba did not have much flavor, the myoga flowers did. They had the subtle bitter flavor characteristic of myoga. The only way it is possible to eat myoga flowers is getting them from myoga grown in your own backyard. The flowers are extremely perishable so once the myoga blooms, it immediately loses its commercial value. It has been some time since we have been able to experience the luxury and subtle taste of myoga flowers. 

Tuesday, September 22, 2020

Myoga harvest 2020 冥加の収穫 2020

Last year, we could harvest only a few myoga (or myouga 冥加) from the new myoga rhizomes we planted in the spring of 2019 to replace the ones that had mysteriously disappeared. But this year we finally got a good harvest. This harvest was much later than usual; mid September instead of early August as in previous years. Nonetheless the myoga buds were much larger and well formed. To harvest myoga, these edible buds are under ground just below the surface. The only way to harvest them is to scrabble in the dirt with your bare hands to find them with your fingers and then dig them up. My wife is skilled and persistent at finding myoga. She can go over a patch I just harvested and dig up many more. She did comment, however, that harvesting myoga wrecks havoc on her manicure. (News Flash! She admitted she has never had a manicure). So, the below is this year’s harvest.


A few had already flowered but we harvested many just in time. I decided to leave the small ones to enjoy fresh. I made the remaining myoga into pickles (pickled in sweet vinegar). Since this year's myoga were large, I decided to halve them before making them to pickles. By halving them, I could clean them better as well.


Ingredients:
Myoga (we probably had about 4 cups), cleaned and halved (or whole if they are small)

For sweet vinegar (combine the below in a pan and heat and melt the sugar and salt)
1 cup rice vinegar
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 tsp salt

Directions:
In a sealable  container, add the myoga and the sweet vinegar. It may not completely cover the myoga but myoga will exude water and in few days, all myoga will be covered. Seal the lid and refrigerate. It can be eaten after 3-4 days. In the previous post 10 years ago, I said this will keep for at least several weeks but we have eaten the previous batch for at least 3 years. After one year, all the red color was bleached out but it was still good.

We are so delighted to have a decent myoga harvest! We had cold silken tofu (hiya-yakko 冷奴) with thinly sliced myoga and bonito flakes. Myoga has such a distinct flavor which we really missed.

Saturday, September 19, 2020

Scallops "Isobe-yaki" 帆立の磯辺焼き

We recently succumbed to one of the advertising emails we frequently get from Great-Alaska seafood. This time, the deal was 2 lbs each of wild sockeye salmon filet, colossal sea scallops and jumbo shrimp. Since the deal included three different seafoods, we thought we could handle it and ordered it. When the shipment arrived, I decided to try the scallops first. The scallops were a good size (so-called diver scallops) and nicely coated with a thin layer of ice so the outside would be protected while they thawed. I defrosted 4 scallops uncovered on a plate in the refrigerator. Interestingly, the ice coating remained intact even as the scallop itself got soft and thawed. Since I only thawed 4 to try, I made a classic Japanese snack that goes well with sake and is often served at sushi-bars 寿司や called "Hotate-no-Isobe-yaki" 帆立の磯辺焼. Whenever "Iso-be", meaning  ”near the rocky beach", is used in Japanese culinary parlance, it is a dish containing "nori" seaweed, either grilled "isobe-yaki" or fried "isobe-age" 磯辺揚げ. In this case,  it was a scallop sautéed and wrapped in nori.  At a sushi-bar, sometimes this would be handed directly to you by the sushi chef. It is literally a finger food conveyed to your mouth with your fingers as shown in the picture below--then "chomp".


The scallops are usually marinaded with soy sauce based marinade. There appears to be quite a few variations on this theme. I used a mixture of mirin and soy sauce and marinated the scallops for 10-15 minutes before cooking. Since two of the scallops were rather thick, I halved them producing 3 portions per serving. I served them with sheets of nori.



Ingredients: (for two servings of small appetizer like above)
4 scallops
Nori sheet cut into small rectangles or use packaged seasoned nori.

Marinade:
1 tbs each of soy sauce and mirin.
1 tbs unsalted butter for frying

Directions:
Place the scallops and the marinade in a small Ziploc bag (I used a sandwich bag), remove the air as much as you can and place in the refrigerator for 15 or so minutes (I am sure longer marination will not hurt). Removed from marinade and blot the excess (below).


Melt the butter and cook the scallops for 1-2 minutes each until browned (below). Add 1 -2 tsp of the marinade to the pan and put on the lid for 30 seconds. When the marinade slightly reduces, coat the scallops with sauce. Try not to over cook. (If using sashimi quality fresh scallops, the center could be raw).

Sandwich between the folded nori sheet and enjoy.

This was really good. The quality of scallops are really good. they were sweet, soft and moist. Perfect drinking snack for cold sake.

Wednesday, September 16, 2020

Marinated tuna sashimi with grated Daikon 鮪のおろし和え

This is a continuation of the “using up yellowfin tuna sashimi block”. We started with “Tuna caprese” and proceeded with the cold chawan-mushi. This was the third appetizer and second tuna sashimi dish. Without knowing specifically what I would make, I marinated 1/3 block of tuna sashimi “saku” block sliced in concentrated Japanese noodle sauce or “mentsuyu” 麺つゆ to make “Zuke tuna” 漬けマグロ. I could have served as it is or as “yama-kake” 山かけ but I did not have any nagaimo 長芋. I did have daikon 大根, however, so I made this dish.


Beside mixing in chopped scallion, I garnished it with the green part of the scallion thinly sliced. 


This is not really a recipe. I grated the daikon and let it sit in a fine meshed strainer to remove any excess moisture. I cut the marinated tuna into small cubes. I chopped one small scallion finely then mixed the tuna, grated daikon, scallion and added “Ponzu” ポン酢 (from the bottle).

This could have been a good refreshing dish but this daikon, as sometimes happens, was extremely hot (spicy) which made it difficult to enjoy. It was like eating straight wasabi or more like horse radish. We ended up scraping as much of the grated daikon as we could off the tuna. Oh well, I should have tasted the daikon before adding to the tuna. 

The last tuna appetizer was  tuna “cutlet”  マグロカツ (I did not take pictures this time but here is the previous tuna cutlet).


 We switched to red wine. Previously, I made the red wine miso sauce and had it with the tuna cutlet. We felt the sauce needed more miso flavor. I reheated the remaining sauce and added more miso. This time, the sauce was better but we think we could have even more miso in this sauce. But we finished the entire saku of yellowfin tuna.

Sunday, September 13, 2020

Chawan-mushi with “ikura” salmon roe 冷製茶碗蒸しイクラのせ

 This is not a new dish but it was the second appetizer for the evening when we had the tuna caprese as the first dish. This is a cold chawan-mushi which I made in the morning.  I topped it with “ikura” salmon roe and garnished with “ao-nori” 青海苔 a type of dried green seaweed called laver.


For this version of  chawan-mushi , I used shrimp, chicken and scallion since I did not have the other items I usually use.




Ingredients: (for 6 small cups such as the sized container shown above)
3 large eggs (150-170 ml)
Broth, three times volume of the eggs (450- 520ml). Any broth including chicken broth will do. I used a mixture of bonito and kelp broth from a dashi-pack and broth I made from shrimp shells. I seasoned the broth with mirin, light colored soy sauce and salt.

6 large frozen shrimp, shell on, thawed, salted, let it stand for 5-10 minutes, shelled and cut into bite sized pieces.
1 cooked chicken tenderloin, shredded.
1/2 scallion, sliced on bias.

Directions
In 6 small bowls, add the shrimp, chicken, and scallion. Mix the eggs and seasoned cold broth, pour the egg mixture through a fine sieve. Steam (I used an electric wok) on high stream for 10 minutes and then lowered the steam and keep steaming until the egg mixture was set (another 10-15 minutes or more).

Instead of eating this hot, I let it cool to room temperature and refrigerated it. I served it cold with Ikura and dried “ao-nori” on top.

Since I did not have other items such as shiitake mushrooms, I used whatever was available. This simpler approach worked very well for this cold chawan-mushi. The addition of the ikura salmon worked very well. It provided a nice texture with a delicate pop in the mouth followed by a  burst of fresh sea saltiness. After this we had another tuna dish.

Thursday, September 10, 2020

Tuna sashimi caprese with basil and perilla 漬けマグロのカプレーゼ

This was the first of three appetizers I made one evening using a saku block of yellowfin "ahi" tuna キハダマグロ we got from Great-Alaska seafood. I am always looking for different ways to serve yellowfin tuna sashimi. The recipe I saw at e-recipe was a usual caprese with the addition on tuna sashimi.  I altered the recipe by leaving out the tomato. In addition, I used basil for one batch and perilla for the other.


The one with basil is shown on the left in the picture below . The basil came from our window-sill garden. The one with perilla is shown on the right. The perilla is from our herb garden.




Ingredients: (for an appetizer for two)
1/3 tuna “saku” block, sliced into 6 slices (3 slices per serving)
6 slices of fresh mozzarella cheese
6 basil leaves
6 perilla leaves (if large cut into two)
Good olive oil (I used our favorite Spanish olive oil)
Salt and pepper

Marinade:
2 tbs soy sauce
1 small clove of garlic, crushed  using a garlic press (or grated from tube).
1/2 tsp. sugar

Directions
Add the marinade and the tuna into a Ziploc bag, remove the air, seal and marinate for 10-15 minutes. Blot out excess marinade (I decided to cut one slice into two so that I could make the basil and perilla versions). Layer the mozzarella cheese, tuna, and either basil or perilla. Sprinkle with the olive oil, salt, and freshly cracked black pepper.

This was a really good way to have tuna sashimi. The addition of garlic in the marinade made it really good. Both the basil and perilla versions while different were good. We thought both are good but the perilla ones had stronger and more distinct flavor.

Monday, September 7, 2020

Cabbage and perilla in brine キャベツの青じそ漬け

These were five small appetizers we had one evening. Among these five appetizers, one is new and another is sort of new (a variation).


From the left, three kinds of protein. In the picture below which is the close up of the individual dishes, the left is smoked mackerel with miso sauce (since it is difficult now to get fresh mackerel, we got a package of smoked mackerel). My wife suggested serving it with the miso sauce I use to simmer the fresh mackerel サバの燻製味噌ソース. Unfortunately, this batch of the smoked mackerel was a bit too salty and the addition of the miso sauce did not improved the situation by adding more saltiness. The center is vegetables and fried salmon in sweet vinegar 酒の南蛮漬け and the right is chicken dressed in sesame dressing 酒蒸し鶏胸肉の胡麻和え.


Below, from  left to right is the previously mentioned chicken with sesame dressing, the center is a new small dish which is cabbage and perilla in brine キャベツの青じそ漬け.  There are many variations on this theme but I used a recipe from the on-line version of the Japanese newspaper "Asahi shinbun" 朝日新聞. (The recipe follows below the picture). The right is my usual potato saladポテトサラダ. 


Ingredients for cabbage dish
150 grams cabbage, cut into 1 x 3-4 cm strips
4-5 Green perilla leaves, cut into 1cm square

For Brine (mix the below and let it cool to room temperature)
1/2 cup hot water
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp sugar
1/2 tsp rice vinegar


Directions
In a Ziploc bag, add the cabbage and green perilla, pour in the brine, remove the air as much as you can and seal. Sandwich the bag between two plates and put the weight and let it stand for 30 minutes until more water comes out and the cabbage becomes soft. It will keep several days in the refrigerator.

The brine was rather gentle and the cabbage tasted fresh and had a nice crunch. eating it with the perilla pieces really made it. This is a nice refreshing dish.

Friday, September 4, 2020

Homemade Ricotta cheese 自家製リッコタチーズ

For a while during covid we were not able to get plain yogurt. In the past, my wife made yogurt using Dannon yogurt as the seed but when it was not available, she bought some heirloom yogurt starter from Cultures for Health. Recently she has been into making yogurt from the heirloom starter as well as the Dannon yogurt which is now available. The home-made yogurt from the heirloom starter lactobacillus is now in its 16th generation.  With some effort (heating and maintaining the temperature of the milk for a specific time before seeding), the consistency of the heirloom yogurt has greatly improved and it tastes much better than commercial yogurt. It is very creamy, sweet with a slight tang. Meanwhile, we noticed that the  Dannon based home-made yogurt has a slight viscous (slimy) consistency which is different from the original store-bought Dannon and is not entirely pleasant. (When my wife made yogurt many years ago using Dannon the resulting yogurt did not have this consistency). When it is made into Greek (strained) yogurt, however, it is much creamer and nicer than Greek yogurt made from store bought Dannon.  The dip made from Home-made Dannon derived Greek yogurt is really nice. When making Greek yogurt, however, it produces a large amount of whey. My wife always thought it was a bit of a waste to throw it away and wanted to find a way to use it. Finally she found a recipe for homemade ricotta using the whey from yogurt and decided to make a small experimental batch. We were a bit amazed at how good this homemade ricotta is.


Although we learned that authentic ricotta (re-cooked) is made using only whey, the ones commercially available in the U.S. apparently are mostly made from milk. The recipe my wife found uses a combination of whey and whole milk.

Ingriedients: This is the original recipe. The recipe my wife used for the small experimental batch follows.
2 gallons fresh whey (use within a few hours of straining)
1 gallon milk (optional)
1/2 cup distilled white vinegar
salt to taste

What my wife used for her small experimental amount
1 cup whey
1 cup milk (optional)
1/8 cup vinegar (she used rice vinegar)
salt to taste.

Directions
Mix the whey and milk and put in a slow cooker. Heat on low until the combination reaches 195 F. (About 2 to 3 hours). Remove from heat add vinegar and stir. The curd will form and float to the top. (When the milk reached 195 F and we took off the lid and it looked like this (picture below). Apparently, the curd had already started to form)



Drain the curd through a butter cheese cloth (picture below). One hour draining for soft ricotta. Six or more hours for firmer ricotta. Remove from the cloth, put it into a small bowl and salt to taste.


Although my wife made only a small amount, it was really good. It was creamy with a soft texture. The vinegar gave it a slight tang while it also maintained a slightly yogurt flavor and the salt really brought everything together. My wife is inspired...Watch out. 

Tuesday, September 1, 2020

Super-soft Milk Bread 日本風食パン

Many years ago, when we visited Tokyo 東京, we stayed at hotels in the Asakusa area 浅草. (More recently, we've been staying at hotels in the Ginza/Tokyo station area). One of the fond memories we have of our stay at the Asakusa hotels was going to a coffee house or "Kissa-ten" 喫茶店 for breakfast and coffee. At that time, they usually offered, at a very reasonable price, choices of "morning sets" モーニングセットdesignated as  "A", "B" or "C". They consisted of some kind of egg (hard boiled or egg salad) and slightly different sides such as a mini green salad or cucumber. The foundation of the meal, and, as far as we are concerned, the best part, was a very thick slice of soft bread lightly toasted and served with butter or sometimes jam or jelly. The second cup of coffee was usually available at a steep discount which was another reason we liked breakfast at the Kissa-ten. Recently my wife came across a recipe for "Super-soft Milk Bread". In addition to being reminiscent of our favorite Kissa-ten bread, the accompanying write-up referred to it as a variation of "Hokkaido milk bread". Since I am originally from Hokkaido 北海道, that "sealed the deal". I had to make this. This is a very different recipe from our usual white bread loaf. It came out super soft, light and fluffy. It really reminded us of "Kissa-ten" toast. I sliced a very thick piece (but not as thick as some we had at kissa-ten) toasted it and slathered on the butter. Voila!


Some Japanese recipes for this type of bread include "Yu-dane" 湯種 or "Yu-kone or Yu-gone" 湯捏ね in which  a portion of flour is mixed and kneaded with hot water. Instead, this recipe pre-cooked the flour and milk into a soft paste called "tangzhong" which is the Chinese pronunciation of "Yu-dane"  湯種.  I read that this was popularized by a Chinese cookbook author Yvonne Chen as "tangzhong" which is the term that commonly appears in English-written recipes for this type of bread. This recipe came from the King Arthur website.

Ingredients
Tangzhong
3 tablespoons (43g) water
3 tablespoons (43g) whole milk
2 tablespoons (14g) King Arthur Unbleached Bread Flour


Dough
2 1/2 cups (298g) King Arthur Unbleached Bread Flour
2 tablespoons (14g) Baker's Special Dry Milk or nonfat dry milk
1/4 cup (50g) sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon instant yeast (This looked like too much for one loaf of bread, next time I may reduced it in half)
1/2 cup (113g) whole milk
1 large egg
4 tablespoons (57g) unsalted butter, melted

I weighed all ingredients except for the yeast and egg.

Directions
To make the tangzhong: Combine all of the ingredients in a small saucepan, and whisk until no lumps remain.

Place the saucepan over low heat and cook the mixture, whisking constantly, until it becomes thick and the whisk leaves lines on the bottom of the pan, about 3 to 5 minutes (#1 below).

Transfer the tangzhong to a small mixing bowl or measuring cup and let it cool to lukewarm.
To make the dough
Combine the tangzhong with the remaining dough ingredients, then mix and knead — by mixer or bread machine — until a smooth, elastic dough forms; this could take almost 15 minutes in a stand mixer (I used a standing mixer with a dough hook and kneaded it for 7-10 minutes).

Shape the dough into a ball, and let it rest in a lightly greased bowl, covered, for 60 to 90 minutes, until puffy but not necessarily doubled in bulk.

Gently deflate the dough and divide it into four equal pieces; if you have a scale each piece will weigh between 170g and 175g (I divided the dough in half-- I should have weighed the halves; the loaf came out uneven).

Flatten each piece of dough into a 5" x 8" rectangle, then fold the short ends in towards one another like a letter. Flatten the folded pieces into rectangles again (this time about 3" x 6") and, starting with a short end, roll them each into a 4" log. (After flattening, folding, I rolled it into two logs).

Place the logs in a row of four (in my case, two) — seam side down and side by side — in a lightly greased 9" x 5" loaf pan.

Cover the loaf and allow it to rest/rise for 40 to 50 minutes, until puffy (#2 below).

Toward the end of the rising time, preheat the oven to 350°F.

To bake the bread: Brush the loaf with milk and bake it for 30 to 35 minutes, until it's golden brown on top and a digital thermometer inserted into the center reads at least 190°F (#3 below).
Remove the loaf from the oven and cool it in the pan until you can transfer it safely to a rack to cool completely (#4).



The dough rose rather quickly (this is the reason I think I will reduce the yeast next time). After the bread completely cooled, I sliced it (#4).We have been making white bread loafs for some time using an old recipe which came with our stand mixer. Our white bread loaf is good but this one is different and may be better. It is extremely light and very close to the Japanese loaf bread we had at the Kissa-ten. We were "transported" back to Tokyo with the first bite. It had a mildly sweet flavor and the crust was nice and crunchy. We will definitely make this again for sure.

Addendum:

I doubled the amount and made two loaves. I also, decreased the yeast by half (proportionally). I also weighed the 4 portions (2 for one loaf) and they came out in equal sizes (see pictures below). This is just a note to myself so that I do not have to calculate  the ingredients' weight again.

Ingredients:

Tangzhong
86 g water
86 g whole milk
28 g King Arthur Unbleached Bread Flour

Dough
596 g King Arthur Unbleached Bread Flour
28 g  nonfat dry milk 
100 g sugar
2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon instant yeast
226 g whole milk
2 large egg
114 g (one stick) unsalted butter, melted

Despite halving the yeast, the dough rose and the bread came out soft and fluffy. It may have taken a little bit more time to rise but the flavor of the bread, we thought, was better.

Thursday, August 27, 2020

Red wine miso sauce with tuna cutlet 赤ワイン味噌ソースとマグロカツ

I thawed a block "saku" of low-grade yellowfin tuna sashimi. As usual, I tried to make some variation dishes. First I made "zuke" marinated tuna cubes with avocado very similar to one I posted. The second dish was imitation "negitoro " ネギトロ. These two dishes are very good with cold house sake "Tengu-mai"  天狗舞大吟醸.  The third dish I made was tuna cutlet マグロカツ.  I gave a twist to this dish by making a red wine miso sauce and serving it with our relatively new house red wine DAOU Vineyards “Pessimist” Red Blend 2018. I saw the sauce recipe in a digital version of the Japanese newspaper “Asahi “ 朝日新聞. The recipe was written by a sommelier. It is a reduced red wine with miso and he claimed that, with this sauce, the food will go well with red wine. He also suggested fried food would be the best with this sauce. I served tuna cutlet with this sauce accompanied with cucumber and cabbage “asazuke” 浅漬け as well as the cauliflower I usually make and skinned Campari tomato.

The reason I made this sauce was because one of the bottles of red wine we opened recently had a bit  of a musty taste/oder and we decided not to drink it. It was not corked but somehow the handling was not right since other bottles of the same wine were ok. Also we have had this wine so many time in the past with no problems.  In any case, I used a portion of this wine to make a chicken liver dish, a stew of leftover barbecued chicken, and this red wine miso sauce to finish the bottle. Once cooked, the wine lost its mustiness.

Ingredients
Red wine 200 ml
Red miso 2 tbs (I did not have red miso 赤味噌 and used “awase” miso 合わせ味噌)
Mirin 2 tsp
Rice vinegar 2 tsp
light colored soy sauce 2 tsp
Honey 2 tsp or more to taste

Directions
Reduce the red wine in half, dissolve the miso and add other ingredients and adjust sweetness to your liking by adding more honey.

I added more honey than indicated. I had to strain the sauce since it developed some sediments (due to vinegar?). I served it on the fried tuna and the fried taste completely dominated. We actually couldn’t taste the sauce at all. My wife, who never skimps when it comes to the application of sauces actually took to soaking her pieces of tuna in the sauce and said she still couldn’t taste it. Finally, in desperation she slurped it with a spoon and conceded it tasted very nice. I would have expected to at least taste the miso flavor but it was completely muted. I am not sure this may have been because I did not use red miso. In any case, this sauce did not have much flavor but we enjoyed the tuna cutlets with red wine. Since more sauce is left, I may add more miso to see if that will improve the flavor.

Friday, August 21, 2020

No Knead rye bread with "Karikari"-salted plum カリカリ青梅入り捏ねないライ麦パン

 As I promised in the previous post on no-knead olive rye bread, I made no-knead rye bread with "karikari-koume" カリカリ小梅 or salted small green plums. Initially I thought this bread was a failure, primarily because after 18 hours of rising not all the flour was incorporated into the dough as it should have been. It did not rise much and even after baking it was still a fairly flat loaf. In addition, as I was getting ready to incorporate the green plums into the dough my wife came along and snarfed a plum to taste. (This was the first time she tried one). She made the face reserved for eating raw lemons and blurted, 'how can you ever eat these things?' For her, it was not only salty but also very sour. For me it was salty but not that sour.


Initially, I had prepared 200 grams of the salted plums to add to the dough. After her tasting, and at her suggestion, I reduced the amount to about 150 grams and chopped them into smaller pieces  It turned out this was the right thing to do.


On the cut surface the plums look like green olives.



Ingredients
300 grams bread flour
100 grams rye flour
2 grams instant yeast
150 grams Karikari-koume salted plum, stone removed and roughly chopped (It is easiest to crush the plum with the flat of the knife and then split the plum open to remove the stone. I chopped a bit more finely than for the olives)
300 grams cold water

Directions
Exactly same as the other no-knead breads. Mix everything, cover and let it rise for 12-18 hours. Form the ball on a well-floured board by pulling the edges to the center. Dust with more flour and cover with a floured dish towel (I also placed an inverted large bowl over it). Let it rise for 1-2 hours. Preheat the oven to 450F with cast iron Dutch oven inside for, at least, 30 minutes before baking. Place the dough in the hot cast iron dutch oven, put the lid on and bake for 30 minutes. Remove the lid and bake an additional 10-15 minutes. Take it out and let it completely cool on a cooling rack.

All I can say after this experience is that yeast bread is very "forgiving". Turned out this "failure" bread was not bad at all. The taste was unique and very interesting (in a good way). The addition of the plums was just fine. The bread toned down the sourness and they provided a nice burst of saltiness reminiscent of olives but with the distinctive plummy flavor so characteristic of Japanese dishes. This combination of rustic rye bread and salty plum is similar to a rice ball with "karikari koume". The texture was very moist and the crust nice and crunchy. My wife fully endorsed the final product and said I should make it again.

Tuesday, August 18, 2020

Baguette in the porcelain baker 3rd try バゲットベイカー3度め

This is the 3rd try making baguette using an Emile Henry baguette baker. It came out better than previous attempts but despite generous oiling and dusting with flour the bread maker, the bread still stuck to the bottom portion of the baking dish.
I generously oiled and then dusted with flour as shown below.  
Then, I placed the dough in the baker and let it rise.
I slashed the loves with a lame and sprayed water on the surface.
The loaves came out looking good. But the bottom of all of them especially the center one, stuck to the baker,
I removed them but some crust was lost stuck to the baker.
I was frustrated and start looking for comments about this baker. Sure enough lots of people complained about the stickiness. Some people were totally irate. Some said after the 4th try it stopped sticking. So, I should try at least one more time. Despite the sticking, the baguettes had a nice texture and flavor.

Saturday, August 15, 2020

No knead olive rye bread 捏ねないオリーブライ麦パン

This is a continuation of my saga on no-knead breads. The last time, I made olive bread following the original recipe, I felt that the amount of water was too much even though it turned out to be a wonderful bread. The dough was too wet to handle easily. We also thought that the combination of salty olives with no-knead rye bread would taste even better. So this is the version I baked. It came out looking nice and rustic.
After it completely cooled down, we cut into it. This time I used half and half of Divina Kalamata and green olives.

Ingredients
300 grams Bread flour 
100 grams Rye flour
2 grams instant yeast
200 grams black and green olives (Salt brine) or all one kind, roughly chopped,
300 grams cold (52-65F) water

*changes I made from the original olive bread recipe were replacing 100 grams of flour with rye flour and reducing the water to 300grams from 350 grams.

Directions
The directions are same as for the other no knead bread.

Mix everything in a bowl with a wooden spoon.
Cover with a plastic wrap and let it rise for 12-18 hours.
Remove the dough from the bowl to a well floured board. 
Bring the outer edges into the center to make a round shape. 
Transfer it to a well floured dish towel, dust the surface with more flour and fold the towel to cover. Let it rise for 1-2 hours.
Preheat the oven with the cast iron pot inside to 450F for at least 30 minutes prior to baking.

Place the dough in the heated pot, put on the lid and bake for 30 minutes.
Remove the lid and bake an additional 5-10 minutes.
Take out the bread and let it completely cool on a cooling rack.


The dough was plenty wet and sticky despite the 50gram reduction in water from the original olive bread recipe. The texture of the bread was similar and I think this is enough hydration. Again, the burst of flavor from the salt brine olives and the addition of rye really made this bread. We think, for us, this is a better olive bread. Next plan is to make a similar bread using the "karikari koume" カリカリ小梅 I made instead of olives.

Wednesday, August 12, 2020

Watermelon ribbon salad with wasabi スイカのワサビ入りリボンサラダ

Because of Covid-19, we are having groceries delivered. This creates some problems because we can't inspect the items before we receive them as we would if we were picking them out at the store. In addition, because of substitutions, what we actually receive can sometimes be unexpected such as getting cilantro as a substitution for celery, which occurred in a recent delivery. One such case occurred this week. We ordered a small seedless baby watermelon but instead we got two quarters (actually 1/2) of a full sized melon. This was much much more watermelon than we were expecting. So, besides eating the watermelon as is, my wife made watermelon soup スイカの冷製スープ, pickled watermelon rind, スイカの皮のピクルス and watermelon ribbon salad スイカのリボンサラダ. Although the recipe for the watermelon ribbon salad shown here is basically the same as the one we posted before, my wife changed the amounts to make a smaller portion (using a 5x7 inch casserole dish instead of the usual 6x10) and wanted to record the recipe. The white layer is made of cottage cheese with a good amount of wasabi added which really makes the dish giving it a nice "zing". We served it as a first appetizer of the evening on a crane plate we got in Kyoto sometime ago.
These are the layers of the ribbon salad. Looks like nice pink and white ribbon.


Ingredients:
1/2 cup buttermilk
1/8 cup milk or cream
3/4 + 1/8 cup cottage cheese mashed
1/8 cup mayonnaise
1/8 tsp salt
1 lime or lemon squeezed
2 tsp. wasabi (or to taste)

Directions:
Puree the watermelon. Add the buttermilk and lime. Take 1/4 cup of the puree and use it to bloom the gelatin. Heat the bloomed gelatin in the microwave for 30 seconds. Add the gelatin to the rest of the puree. Pour 3/4 cup of the puree mixture into the bottom of the 5x7casserole dish and let it jell in the refrigerator until solid. (Keep the remaining puree at room temperature and it will stay liquid.)

Mash the cottage cheese using an immersion blender. Add the mayo and salt. Take some of the cottage cheese mixture, add it to a small bowl and use it to soften the wasabi. The amount of wasabi is basically to taste. I found that the cottage cheese tends to calm it down so I end up putting in a fairly large amount. Once it has been homogenized into the amount in the small bowl add it to the large bowl and stir until it is incorporated. Bloom the gelatin in the lime juice. Heat in the microwave for 30 seconds until melted. Add to the bowl of cottage cheese. Pour the cottage cheese over the watermelon layer and cool until solid.  Add the remaining 3/4 cup watermelon puree on top of the cottage cheese layer and cool until solidified.
This is a very summery refreshing salad. The wasabi in the white cottage cheese layer really works well.  The sharpness of the wasabi flavor somehow complements and accentuates the sweetness of the pink melon layer. Without the wasabi this dish would be pretty bland. We had this with chilled pink wine (always good to color coordinate whenever possible), Aix Rose 2019, Rosé from Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence, Provence, South of France. It went perfectly.

Sunday, August 9, 2020

Almond flour doughnut muffin アーモンド ドーナツ マフィン

This another one of my wife's muffin projects. The original recipe came from King Arthur Flour website but she replaced some of the wheat flour with almond flour. I am not sure whether she just wanted to use the almond flour before it gets stale or to reduce the carb in this muffin or make it more gluten free. I am not sure why it is called "doughnut" muffin.

Wifey's response: The blueberry and strawberry muffins I made used pulverized almonds mixed with flour as their base. I have some almond flour which is past its "best by" date but it was still ok because we were freezing it. But when the available freezer space was reduced due to the demise of our main refrigerator, the flour wasn't frozen for a while. So, I had an increased incentive to use it up. I got to thinking maybe I could use almond flour along with the pulverized almonds in muffins by substituting the almond flour for some of the wheat flour. But I wasn't sure what proportions should be used for the substitution--100%? So I did a web search. According to the King Arthur site almond flour can be substituted for 25% of the flour in non yeast products. For yeast products, however, because almond flour does not contain gluten substituting it for the wheat flour would inhibit the rise. So, according to the instructions, instead of substituting for the wheat flour, you add 1/3 cup almond flour per cup of wheat flour. For example, if the recipe calls for 3 cups wheat flour you would use 3 cups wheat flour plus 1 cup almond flour.  While investigating percentages I found a whole bunch of recipes using almond flour. One of which was this doughnut muffin. They called it a doughnut muffin because apparently they thought if tasted like a cake donut. Sorry you asked? 


Nice texture and flavor.


Ingredients
4 tablespoons (57g) butter
2/3 cup sugar
2 Tbs. molasses
2 large eggs
1/4 cup (50g) vegetable oil
79.75 g almond flour, plus 239.25 g All Purpose flour (or 319 g wheat flour)
1 1/2 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. baking soda
1 to 1 1/4 tsp. nutmeg, to taste
3/4 tsp. salt
1 cup (227g) milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Directions
Preheat the oven to 425°F. Lightly grease a standard muffin tin.
In a food processor, cream the butter. Add the sugar and molasses and continue creaming. Add the eggs and continue creaming. With the processor running add the vegetable oil and mix until smooth. (This can also be done in a stand mixer.)
In another bowl add the flours and combine with a whisk. Stir in the baking powder, baking soda, nutmeg, salt.
Add the vanilla to the milk.
Stir the butter mixture into the flour mixture alternately with the milk mixture, beginning and ending with the flour and making sure everything is thoroughly combined.
Spoon the batter evenly into the prepared pan, filling the cups nearly full.
Bake the muffins for 15 to 17 minutes, or until they're a pale golden brown and a cake tester inserted into the middle of one of the center muffins comes out clean. Remove them from the oven, and let them cool for a couple of minutes then remove from the pan.

This is a very nice muffin. Although it included a fairly large amount of nutmeg the flavor was very mellow and pleasing. The texture was fine and tender.  Although the recipe described it as tasting just like a cake doughnut fresh out of the oil I might not go quite that far in characterizing it that way. Nonetheless this is certainly a good muffin for breakfast.

Thursday, August 6, 2020

Pesto prosciutto "udon" pasta バジルペーストとプロシュートのウドンパスタ

This was a lunch. Since we made pesto from our window sill basil harvest, we decided to use the pesto, prosciutto, which was getting old,  and the remaining rapini which I blanched previously. We thought this combination should work. Instead of spaghetti, we used thin Japanese “udon” noodles called "Ito-udon" 糸うどん which we had cooked a few days prior. I started with cooking the prosciutto in a frying pan. Then set aside the prosciutto. In the same pan, added a small amount  of olive oil and sautéed the noodle until warmed up, added  the rapini. Finally, off heat, added the pesto and prosciutto.


Since the pesto had enough parmesan cheese in it, I only added our favorite spicy Spanish olive oil.


The flavors of the pesto, slightly bitter rapini, and salty prosciutto all worked well. This was a perfect lunch for us.

Monday, August 3, 2020

Strawberry Almond muffin ストローベリィ アーモンド マフィン

This is one of my wife's muffin projects. She made a very similar muffin using blueberry but this time she used fresh strawberries.


The strawberries don't show up on the cut surface as well as the blueberries did in the blueberry version of this muffin. The strawberries lost their color but the strawberry flavor came through.


The basic muffin recipe came from “Pastry from La Brea Bakery”.

Ingredients:(for 12 muffins)
1/2 cup (3 oz.) almonds deeply toasted. (The toasting is what gives the muffins a rich flavor)
3/4 cup sugar
1 stick plus 2 tbs. (5 oz.) butter
3 large eggs

3 cups all-purpose flour
1 tbs. plus 1 tsp baking powder
>3/4 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. salt

2 tsp. vanilla
1 1/2 cup buttermilk
1 cup chopped strawberries.

Directions
In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade pulse the almonds until they are the texture fine meal. Add the butter and cream until smooth. Add the sugar and process until fluffy. Add the eggs and cream until light and fluffy.



In a separate bowl mix the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Add the vanilla to the buttermilk
Add the butter mixture to the flour mixture alternately with the buttermilk mixture.  Fold in the strawberries (above). Put the batter into a greased muffin tin (below). Bake at 350 degree for 20 to 25 minutes.


The ground-up toasted almonds gave nice rich nutty flavor and texture to the muffin. The strawberries lost their color and shrank when the muffins were cooked leaving spaces around them. Although the strawberry flavor is there, we both agreed that if you are adding fruit, blueberry is better.

Friday, July 31, 2020

Red wine "Zuke" tuna and avocado 鮪の赤ワイン漬けとアボカド

This is part of the continuous effort to use frozen items before they get too old. In the freezer I found this sashimi tuna block which was labeled “best used by August of 2019”. (At July 2020 it was one month short of being a year past its “best by” due date—not too bad). This is one we got from the Japanese grocery store. Recently we tried a similar yellowfin tuna "saku" sashimi block from "Great Alaska Seafood" and I noticed it seemed to contain less water than the ones from the Japanese grocery store. I knew this one would have a high water content, so I thawed it on a rectangular plate lined with paper towel, uncovered, in the refrigerator. The paper towel was soaked when it finished thawing. I made "Negitoro" ネギトロ in the evening. The next evening, from the remaining half, I made this variation/combination of "Zuke" 漬け and "Tuna and avocado cubes" 鮪とアボカドの角切り. Using red wine in the marinade was inspired by the recipe I saw on-line  (In Japanese) and similar in idea to chicken liver simmered in red wine.


I garnished it with chiffonade of perilla and some white sesame.



Ingredients: (appetizers for two)
1/2 block of sashimi tuna (in our case, frozen yellowfin), thawed if frozen, cut into small cubes
1/2 ripe avocado

Marinade:
3 tbs red wine (I had an open California cab).
2 tbs soy sauce (I reduced the soy sauce from the original recipe)
1 tbs mirin
1/4 tsp dark sesame oil

Directions
In a Ziploc bag, add the marinade and tuna cubes. Remove the air as much as possible and let it marinate in the refrigerator for a few hours (in my case, it was close to10 hours).
Just before serving, take out the tuna cubes, blot off the excess marinade using a paper towel.
>Remove the stone and skin from the avocado, cut into bite-sized pieces, dress with either lemon juice or yuzu juice (to prevent discoloration, I used yuzu juice from the bottle).
Mix the tuna and avocado in a bowl ( I added a few more drops of Yuzu juice).
Serve on the perilla leaves and garnish with a chiffonade of perilla and some sesame seeds.

This was pretty good especially considering that the frozen yellowfin tuna which was passed its prime. I thought we would add soy sauce when we ate it but the tuna was nicely seasoned and there was no need to add soy sauce. Since it was marinated in red wine, this could have gone well with red wine but we had cold sake.