Fluffy "soufflé" pancakes 日本のスフレパンケーキ

We have been a big fan of pancakes; making so many different types over the years.  Our division of labor is that my wife prepares the batter and I cook the pancakes. While we were browsing through YouTube, we came across "fluffy pancakes".  We first saw a Korean version and then a Japanese version. We came across quite few recipes on line. The constant factor in all the recipes is separating the eggs yolk, whipping the white and incorporating it into the yolk, flour mixture.  Then cooking the pancake on low flame with a cover or lid piling up more batter while it is cooking to give it height (or thickness). The differences among the recipes are the amount of sugar and eggs and type flours (either AP or cake flour). Also, we both remember making a type of fluffy pancake in which separated yolk and whipped egg white were folded into the batter but apparently we did not blog it or this was before we started our blog and we do not remember the details at all. So, one weekend, we made this fluffy pancake for lunch. We served the pancakes with a  fried egg (using pasteurized eggs).

Our pancakes did not fluff up as much as seen in the YouTube videos but still pretty fluffy. For the sake of picture taking, we served three pancakes but we divided this up and we each ate one and half pancakes.

My wife came up with a reasonable hybrid of all the recipes she browsed.

Ingredients (makes three small pancakes):
1 egg, yolk and white separated
1 tsp (5g) sugar
2 tbs (20g) milk (we used light cream)
1 tbs (10g) vegetable oil
4 tbs (32g) cake flour
2/3 tsp baking powder
A pinch of salt
A dash of vanilla extract

Ingredients (X 2 makes 6 small pancakes):
2 egg, yolk and white separated
2 tsp (10g) sugar
4 tbs (40g) milk (we used light cream)
2 tbs (20g) vegetable oil
8 tbs (64 g) cake flour
1 1/3 tsp baking powder
A pinch of salt
A dash of vanilla extract

Directions:
Mix the egg yolk, sugar, milk, and oil in a bowl with whisk until foamy and well mixed (#1).
Add the cake flour and mix until incorporated.
In a stand mixer, whip the egg white to hard peak
Add 1/3 to the flour egg yolk mixture and mix using a whisk (#2), fold in the remaining egg white using a spatula.
Meanwhile preheat a non-stick frying pan on low flame for 10-15 minutes and melt butter, spoon in the batter (#3) and put a lid on. After few minutes, add more batter on the top to make it thicker.
After 10-15 minutes, turn the pancakes over (#4) and cook another 5 minutes with a lid on.

When we had this, I had a Proust's "Madeleine" moment. The texture and taste of these pancakes transported me back to Sapporo 札幌 when I was a kid and my father took me and my brother (don't tell Mother) to an ice cream parlor*. This pancake really reminded me of those  pancakes (they were called hotcakes back then. It appears that  they still serve them but  they are now called pancakes).  Next time when we go back to Sapporo, we have to go there and try the pancakes. As to this version, this is our first attempt at this. We will certainly try to perfect this recipe.

* This was called "Yuki-jirushi" parlor 雪印パーラー. (The picture shows the old location which I visited as a kid). It was run by a big dairy company in Hokkaido. It is still in operation. It moved from the original location to its current location in a nearby building in April, 2017. Until then, it was at the same place we went to as a kid so many years ago.

"Tonkatsu" pork cutlet with sous vide pork 低温調理のトンカツ

We like tonkatsu トンカツ and make it occasionally. Although in Japan, serving undercooked pork is not unusual especially when using SPF pork from specific named-producers (although it does not specifically say it is cysticercus free, I am sure the risk is extremely low). I am sure American pork is relatively safe as well but I, just to be safe, make sure I cook pork completely. In the Weber grill, I roast pork using indirect heat to the inner temperature of 145F as per USDA standard. (Actually, I start going down to the grill when it reads 142F, by the time I am ready to remove the pork from the grill, the temperature will reach 145F). I previously posted sous vide pork tenderloin at 140F for 3 hours which appears to be safe for both bacteria and cysticercus. Going back to tonkatsu, I usually insert an instant digital thermometer in the center of the meat until it registers 140F but it is not easy to get it right. Many times,  the pork is a bit overcooked (since I err on the side of overcooking). To eliminate this anxiety of under or over cooking, I decided to try making tonkatsu from sous vide cooked pork tenderloin. This is what it looks like. I only deep fried it for a total of 1 minute  since the meat itself was precooked. As you can see the center looks slightly pink. It tasted great with a nice fried bread crust. So why is the center is pink?

I sous vide cooked pork tenderloin seasoned with salt and pepper at 140F for 4 hours which is more than enough to completely cook the pork and render it safe. I soaked the vacuum packages after completion of cooking in ice water for 30 minutes to quick cool down before moving them to the meat drawer of the refrigerator for future use. Just before making it into tonkatsu, I sliced it and the cut surfaces were totally homogenous and gray (see below).

So, the only explanation I can come up with is the oxygen exposure. The pork was cooked in a vacuum but after it was breaded and deep fried, oxygen may have bound to myoglobin to make a slightly pink color. This was an  interesting experiment and  proof of concept. I am not sure I will do this as a regular way to cook tonkatsu, though.

Frozen squid with butter and yuzukusho 冷凍イカのバター柚子胡椒炒め

I described the type of squid we can get from our regular grocery store which is previously frozen and thawed at the store "for your convenience". Although occasionally I can get a larger frozen squid from Japan at our Japanese grocery store, it is not consistent. So, I started looking for frozen squid at our grocery store. I found one from PanaPesca. Actually, I realized I had previously gotten frozen octopus of the same brand. One weekend, I decided to have this squid.

I thawed this in the refrigerator, washed and quickly cooked it in salted boiling water with a splash of sake for 30 seconds. Although it smelled better than the previously thawed variety, they were smaller and for some reason the "beaks" had not been removed from the tentacles. In any case, we enjoyed this squid  two ways on different days. This is sautéed with butter and yuzu-kosho 柚子胡椒. I served this with our usual spicy tofu and store-bought fish cakes (the latter two were heated up in the toaster oven).

If I sautéed the uncooked squid, it could have been better but the combination of butter and yuzu-kosho was good. Squid was quite tender and flavorful.

I wish the squid was a bit larger but I may stock this one in the freeezer.

"Nori" tsukuda-ni and natto 海苔の佃煮納豆

I saw this recipe in one of the food blogs I follow. It involves natto and "nori tsukuda-ni" 納豆と海苔の佃煮.   I am all for new recipes involving natto. So, I had to try this.

"Nori" 海苔 is several types of edible seaweed which are mostly aqua-cultured. If one hears "nori", most people think of a black sheet of paper-like dry product, which is an essential ingredient in making sushi especially rolled sushi. But fresh or salt-preserved "nori" is available in Japan and my favorite was its use in "fresh nori miso soup" なま海苔の味噌汁. Another popular "nori" product is "nori tsukuda-ni" 海苔の佃煮. When I was growing up (or even now), one particular "nori tuskudani" brand by "Momo-ya" 桃屋 called "Edo-murasaki" 江戸むらさき (meaning "Edo purple*") was most popular.  It was/is sold as a condiment for rice or "go-han" ごはん. As a kid, I did not like it since it tasted almost "chemical" to me. I've known for some time that I could get "nori tsukudani" at our Japanese grocery store but I did not even consider it until I read this recipe. I just had to try it. So, I got a jar, mixed it with natto and topped cold silken tofu with the mixture. For  "just-to-make-sure", I added a healthy dollop of the nori tsukudani on top as a garnish (shown as dark jelly like substance in the picture below).

*"Edo purple or Edo-murisake": Is the brand name for  "nori tsukuda-ni". It's made by cooking and reducing seaweed in mirin and soy sauce among other ingredients. Japanese refer to the color of soy sauce as "purple" which is also considered an auspicious or regal color. In certain situations, "murasaki" could mean "soy sauce". The method to make "tsukuda-ni" is said to have originated in "Tsukuda island" 佃島 which is located in Chuo ward 中央区 of current day Tokyo or Edo (the old name of Tokyo). In addition, Tokyo bay was (or may be "is") famous for cultivating "nori".  So, it is apt to name "nori tsukudani" as "Edo purple".

The below is a picture of the jar of  "nori tuskudani" I got. In addition to the brand name "Edo-murasaki", the package has an additional name; "Gohan-desuyo!" ごはんですよ！.  According to Japanese Wikipedia and the company website, this version was added to their usual product line-up  in 1972 (or 1973) . "Gohan-desuyo!" was added to the name to represent a variation from the original product (which they still produce) resulting in something that was not cooked as long and was more moist. This phrase could be translated as "Dinner is served! or YO! Chow-time!". "Gohan" literally means cooked rice but "cooked rice" is also equivalent  to "dinner" for Japanese. The label also states made with 100% domestic "nori" (in this case domestic must mean Japanese).

This appears to be an improved version from the one of my childhood. I tasted a bit before mixing it into the natto. It tasted better than I remembered. I am not sure if this is purely due to a change in my perception i.e. adult taste buds, or the changed and improved recipe mentioned in Wikipedia. I mixed it into the natto using my handy-dandy natto stirrer (shown here as white sticks). I also added finely chopped scallion. I did not add any soy sauce since "nori tsukudani" is salty.

This was pretty good but I am not sure this is particularly outstanding from the regular way of preparing natto. Or as my wife said, "It's edible but I wouldn't walk down the block to get seconds". Nonetheless this re-introduced me to "nori tuskudani". I may try it on freshly cooked white rice next time.

Perilla-wrapped marinated tuna tempura 漬けマグロの青紫蘇包天ぷら

This is the last of three dishes I made from the frozen block of yellowfin tuna. Actually, I was planning to make all three dishes one evening to finish up the tuna block. We, however, bogged down with the first two dishes (we had other small dishes as well) so I made this dish a day later. As a result, the tuna was marinated for 20 hours or so but it did not adversely affect the taste.

The perilla is from our herb garden. This year, our perilla went crazy and is almost 5 feed tall and the leaves are rather large. Although this is based on a recipe on line, I made some changes and used thin tempura batter instead of just potato starch. I also used toothpicks to secure the perilla. This perilla-wrapped tempura is similar to natto tempura I posted before.

I just cut thickly sliced tuna which was marinated into two bite size and wrapped it with half of the perilla leaves (depending on the size of the perilla, you may have to use a full leaf). I put a toothpick through to secure the perilla on the tuna.

I made thin tempura batter from cake flour and cold water. I coated the tuna package with the batter and fried it in 350F peanut oil for 30 seconds (I wanted the center still rare). Since the tuna was marinated, I did not have any dipping sauce or my usual green tea salt for this. This was quite good. The tuna almost tasted like beef with a crunchy curst nice perilla flavor. This will go with any kind of drink.

Otoshi 5 kinds お通し５種類

I served this 5 kind of otoshi お通し appetizer on our relatively new five compartment plates. This was the evening I also served perilla-wrapped marinated tuna tempura 漬けマグロの青紫蘇包み天ぷら but I diverted a few of the tuna skewers to be served as is (see below) which was pretty good. This multiple otoshi to start was inspired by izakaya in Japan, "Suiko"酔香 and "Shuhai" 酒杯, where they regularly serve otoshi consisting of 6 dishes. Having store-bought items makes putting together 5 otoshi easy. Actually I had more than five I could have served as starters but this plate only had 5 positions.

The left two are composed of spicy clam salad and seaweed salad. Both were store-bought and fairly good. If you avoid eating the conspicuous red peppers  (seen at the upper left edge of the dish) the "spicy"clam salad is not too spicy. The seaweed salad appears artificially dyed but has a nice crunch.

The center two otoshi are sea food; boiled octopus leg 茹で蛸足 dressed in sumiso sauce 酢味噌 (I made the sumiso to my wife's spec "not too vinegary". I used dashi to get the consistency of the sauce). The dish on the right is perilla-wrapped "zuke" marinated tuna which I "stole" from the skewers destined to be made into tempura.

Although the tuna was marinated, I put on a few drops of wasabi soy sauce. I am now making different sauces ahead of time and storing them in the refrigerator in small squeeze bottles; (sauces like sumiso, wasabi soy sauce, mustard soy sauce, and sesame dressing.) This makes assembling multiple dishes more efficient. The last dish is eggplant and broccoli seasoned with black bean garlic and toubanjan (or Duabanjiang) sauce. I made this dish a few days ago to use up Italian eggplant leftover from making ratatouille. I made it sort of Chinese stir-fri-ish but I cannot even remember how I made it (I also used Japanese miso, come to think of it). It is not spicy and I added blanched sugar snaps for a color. Although I cannot reproduce it, my wife liked it.

So, this was a great start. I served few more small dishes and planed to finish with perilla-wrapped zuke tuna tempura.

Tuna and natto with wakame sea weed 若芽鮪納豆

In my quest to make frozen yellowfin tuna more palatable, some time ago I made this combination of natto and tuna . The picture below shows the second dish I made with a combination of natto and tuna. This time I added salt preserved wakame seaweed 塩蔵わかめ.

The only drink that could possibly go with this type of dish is cold sake.

I made sure the natto was mixed very well with my natto-stirring contraption to reduce the smell so my wife literally wouldn't "turn her nose up" at it. I used the mustard and sauce packets that came with the natto and also added finely chopped scallion. I washed the salt preserved wakame and hydrateded it for 5 minutes. After squeezing out the excess moisture I dressed it with soy sauce and sesame oil.

As before, the sliced of tuna was marinated in concentrated "mentsuyu" Japanese noodle sauce 麺つゆ for several hours before the excess marinade was blotted off with a paper towel and the tuna was cut into small cubes.

This combination makes the tuna much better and even my wife is fond of this dish,