Spanish Mackerel dumpling Soup topped with “Kinome” Japanese pepper leaves 鯖のつみれ汁

This is a variation of “Mackerel meat ball soup 鯖のつみれ汁”. When I made “Mackerel simmered in miso sauce 鯖の味噌煮” from two fairly large Spanish mackerels we got from Whole Foods, I made mackerel fish balls from the meat I scraped from the bones and tail ends. Since we had left-over cooked udon noodles, tofu, shiitake mushrooms and “kinome 木の芽”, (Japanese pepper tree leaves/sprouts), I combined these to make a soup I served for lunch.  The smell/flavor of the kinome made it something special. We removed the individual leaves from the stem before adding them to the soup. (But left them on the stem to garnish as shown in the next picture.)

Here is the mackerel meat ball clearly visible next to the kinome.

This was quite a filling lunch. The addtion of kinome made it something specail.

Green Yuzu, “Kinome” Japanse pepper leaves 青柚子と木の芽

We mail-ordered Japanese vegetables from “Suzuki Farm” in Delaware for the first time. Since the farm is located in Delaware, UPS ground shipping is essentially overnight. We ordered several items: 1) Japanese cucumber, 2)“Mizu-nasu 水茄子” which is a special type of Japanese eggplant, 3) “Kinome 木の芽”, the young twigs/leaves from the Japanese “Sansho” 山椒 pepper tree, 4) green Yuzu citrus 青柚子 , and 5) “Shishi-togarashi シシとう” a type of (usually not spicy) Japanese green pepper. We also received two Zucchini (freebees).  In the past we could occasionally get some of these vegetables (except for the fresh yuzu and kino-me). I previously posted the recipes I made with them. The vegetables from Suzuki farm, however, were extremely fresh.

For some time, I have wanted to plant a Japanese pepper tree so that we could get the young leaves/tips called “kino-me 木の芽” which means “tree sprouts” to use as a flavoring. These sprouts have a distinctive smell and flavor which compliments many Japanese dishes. Likewise yuzu is a Japanese citrus that also has it’s own distinctive smell and flavor. (Previously, I have only been able to get frozen chopped-up yellow yuzu skin). The ripe yuzu is yellow but the unripe or young yuzu is green (Japanese often call “green” as “blue” and  “green yuzu” is called “ao-yuzu 青柚子” literally meaning “blue yuzu”). Ao-yuzu zest is actually stronger in flavor than yellow yuzu.

So, the first batch of dishes I made included “miso sauces” one made with the kinome and one with the yuzu. I cooked two medallion shape pieces of the mizu-nasu (even though it can be eaten raw) and topped one with the kinome miso (right in #1) the other with Yuzu miso (left in #1) essentially making a japanese dish called “nasu dengaku ナスの田楽”. Although using mizu-nasu for dengaku is a bit of a sacrilege, the two pieces I made were exquisite.  Each miso imparted the distinctive flavor of yuzu or kinome” with which it was made. They went perfectly with the flavor and texture of the cooked eggplant. Since misu-nasu can be enjoyed “raw”, I amended my “sacrilege” by using it raw in the second dish I made. This was an “asazuke 浅漬け” which is a raw vegetable (in this case the misu-nasu) salted/or pickled for only a few hours in a brine. I served the asazuke with the dengaku (#1 upper right).

Since we got two good size fresh whole Spanish mackerels from Whole Foods a few days ago, I made my usual “mackerel simmered in miso sauce 鯖の味噌煮”, I garnished this with a few leaves of the kinome (#2).

This picture shows part of the kinome we received (#3). Although the left most stalk has the classic or most desirable appearance of kinome, all had a nice distinctive smell/flavor. Ao-yuzu was labelled as  “mame-yuzu マメゆず” by the farm (“mame” mens “beans” and also “small”) (#4).

1. “Kino-me miso 木の芽味噌”
Ingredients:
90 gram Saikyo miso 西京味噌 (Kyoto-style sweet white miso)
10 grams sugar (or more if you like sweet)
1 tbs mirin
1 tbs sake
1 egg yolk
Kinome (as much as you like)

Directions:
Mix the miso and egg yolk in a small sauce pan
Add the remaining seasonings 
Place the pan on low flame and mix constantly with a silicon spatula
Once the miso mixture is heated up, taste and adjust the sugar and the consistency by adding more sake or water.
Remove the leaves from the stem of the kinome and grind up using Japanese mortar and pestle
Add the miso mixture and mix well
Let it cool and refrigerate

2. “Yuzu miso 柚子味噌”
Ingredients:
50 grams Awase-miso 合わせみそ(blend of red and white miso, you can buy it as a type of miso in a package) or red miso.
10 grams sugar or more (if you prefer)
1 tbs mirin or more to adjust the consistency
zest from one green yuzu, grated using a micrograter
Juice from one yuzu

Directions:
Mix the miso and the seasonings in a small sauce pan and mix
Place the pan on a low flame and mix constantly with a silicon spatula
Once the miso mixture is heated up, taste and adjust the sugar and the consistency by adding more sake or water.
Let it cool and refrigerate

3. Eggplant “dengaku” ナスの田楽 (Although I used “misu-nasu” other kinds of eggplant may be more appropriate.)

Cut two medallions from the eggplant about 1/2 inch thick, coat them with olive oil and either pan fry or cook in a toaster oven for a few minutes

Place the eggplant medallions on an aluminum foil covered tray and top with a layer of the flavored miso. Cook in a toaster oven until the miso is bubbling.

Although these are dishes I made before, the addition of fresh yuzu zest and kinome really made them much better.

Sapporo Lunch places part2 札幌の昼ごはん パート2

2. Dekitate-ya JR tower Stella place  一夜干しと海鮮丼できたて屋　JRタワーステラプライス店

One day, we went to the JR tower observatory. It is located on the 38 floor of JR tower attached to the Sapporo train station. This is a really excellent observatory. When we stepped out of the elevator on the 38th floor we were advised by the attendant ticket vender that about 60 school kids were in the observatory and they could be a bit unruly so we might consider waiting until they left. When we asked how long that would be the answer was “about an hour”. We decided that was too long to wait so we would chance it. It turns out the kids were very well-behaved and not a problem in the least. Eventually, they left and the observatory was quiet. Along the windows, there were nice chairs and small tables to sit and admire the beautiful panoramic view of the city of Sapporo spread out below. The observatory had a small cafe in the middle. You could order drinks and a snack and sit at one of the tables to enjoy the view. All the views were spectacular but I particularly liked the north view which included Hokkaido University campus, my alma mater, at a glance. When we came down from the observatory on the 38th floor we arrived on the 6 floor of the Stella place, a connecting building. It was noon (lunch time) and we saw many restaurants; some of which had a long lines in front (always an indicator of how good the place is). Although we already had a lunch engagement that day, I made note of it.

A few days later we had to come to the station to make an adjustment to our train tickets. When we finished, it was a noon time. So, we went up to the 6th floor of the Stella Place. After looking around, we decided on this place called “Dekitate-ya できたて屋“. “Dekitate” means “just made or prepared”. The restaurant touted “ichiya-boshi 一夜干し*” over-night dried fish and “kaisen-din 海鮮丼” a rice bowl with fresh seafood on top. That was the deciding factor for me. The line was short but it was fairly late so we decided the size of the line, in this case, was no indicator of the quality of the restaurant. We took a number, waited for about 5 minutes and we were seated.

My wife likes uni or uni-ikura donburi うにイクラ丼 ; a specialty of Hokkaido which my mother introduced her to many years ago. She tried ordering one on this visit in Otaru 小樽 when we went to Kitaichi Glass 北一グラス,  but the restaurant we chose was one of the tourist traps and the uni-ikura donburi was a bit disappointing. So seeing ikura-donburi on the menu of this restaurant, she ordered it. (Japanese call this type of ordering “リベンジ” or “revenge” since the item was not available or disappointing last time). I chose the three grilled fish “teishoku 定食” lunch set called “Feast with 3 kinds of grilled fishご馳走3種類”.

This is a large chain restaurant. The company based in Hokkaido also runs reasonably priced sushi bar chains. There appear to be many stores of  “dekitate-ya” including some in Tokyo. They also do take out. We were very impressed by the quality of the food and service. Although we forgot to take a picture when the food arrived, it was very good and we finished everything. We did not think we could finish the rice but both of us finished even that. My wife’s uni donburi was very good. The uni was small but fresh and good tasting. My dish was spectacular; three grilled fish, the selection of which changes depending on what they have on a given day. Each piece was relatively small but still a good enough size that three of them made a feast and they tasted great. They were yellow tail jaw “hamachi kama ハマチのカマ”,  overnight-dried* “Hokke” (a type of mackerel famous in Hokkaido) 一夜干しほっけand pacific saury “sanma さんま”. The sanma さんま could have been a bit more fatty/oily but was still very good. They offered a choice of brown, white or seasoned rice. I chose the seasoned rice which had ginger and baby scallops in it and it was excellent. We noticed a rice husking machine tucked in the corner of the store near our table. So this restaurant appears to polish rice on-site. We also both got miso soup with baby clams “ko-hamaguri miso-shiru 子はまぐりの味噌汁”**. This was very tasty.  My wife also got warm broth which could be used to finish the rice in the form of “Ochazuke お茶漬け”. I borrowed some of the broth and finished up my seasoned rice. The picture shows the aftermath of my enjoyment of the excellent meal.

*”Ichiya-boshi” or over-night drying is a very common Japanese technique to enhance the flavor and texture of certain fish by reducing the moisture in the fish before grilling.

** A classic miso soup especially for breakfast is “Shijimi miso-shiru しじみの味噌汁’. Shijimi is a small brackish water Japanese clam. Miso soup made from shijimi has a very characteristic umami-packed flavor. The soup they served was a tamed/down-scale  version but somewhat lacking the strong umami flavor shijimi soup may have. I am not sure when was the last time I had a shijimi soup, probably when I was a kid but this was a close facsimile.

Looking around I saw there were counter seats for solo diners. Many solo diners must be office workers. Most of the diners sitting there appeared to be having Kaisen-don, bowl of rice with fresh sashimi on the top. This was certainly one of the best lunches we had on our Japan visit. Despite this being a large chain restaurant, the quality of the grilled fish was reminiscent of our previously favorite grilled fish lunch place in Ginza called “まる 圓”.

Vinegar Cured Mackerel Sushi with Shiro-ita Kelp バッテラ

“Battera バッテラ” is a type of molded sushi or “oshizushi 押し寿司” popular in the Osaka 大阪 region. It is made from vinegar cured mackerel or “shime-saba しめ鯖” and specially prepared kelp called “shiro-ita konbu 白板昆布” (more description later). I posted molded sushi using vinegar cured mackerel and smoked salmon but I did not have shiro-ita konbu, at that time. Later I found a product where the shime-saba was covered with shaven kelp. Using this, I made sushi similar to “oshizushi” called “bo-zushi 棒鮨” without using a mold. We were quite satisfied with this version. Then, I found “shiro-ita konbu” listed on the website called “Japanese Taste”. This company sells authentic Japanese items including groceries. So, I bought the konbu to make a more authentic battera but again I did not use the mold.  (I was just a bit lazy. I would have had to find the mold and then soak it in water before I could use it). In the serving picture, you see the mackerel is covered with a thin layer of kelp. On the left most side I included sushi rice wrapped with “shiro-ika konbu”. They were good but I am not sure the konbu made a big difference in taste. I served this with cucumber and nappa cabbage asazuke 浅漬け and vinegar cured lotus root “su-renkon 酢レンコン.

Ingredients:

1 package of vinegar cured mackerel or shime-saba, thawed

One strip of “shiro-ita konbu 白板昆布 (#4)” about the same size as the mackerel

About 1/2 cup (or enough to make one roll of sushi) of sushi rice

Directions:

Season the kelp as per the package instructions (simmer in the mixture of dashi broth, soy sauce, sake and sugar, but the more standard seasoning uses sweet vinegar)

Remove the thin skin from the mackerel (#1)

Place the mackerel, skin side down on a silicon sushi mat (or plastic wrap on the top of a bamboo sushi mat), make a cylinder of sushi rice on the top and form a tight cylinder using the sushi mat (#2)

Place the seasoned kelp and form again (#3)

Wrap it in plastic wrap to let it settle for 5-20 minutes before slicing

A bit about “Shiro-ita konbu (#4)” and “oboro konbu おぼろ昆布 (#5)”.

“Shiro-ita  konbu” is the center part of kelp after the surface has been removed as “oboro-konbu” by shaving off the surface of the kelp making very thin strands. The package shown in #5 states this is hand-shaven showing the illustration of a guy shaving the kelp. This shaven kelp can be added to soup or udon noodles with broth. It does add some umami flavor but the texture is a bit “slimy”. So, I don’t know which is the main product and which is the byproduct “shiro-ikta conbu” or “oboro konbu” or vise versa.

From “Japanese Taste” I also got dried gourd peel or “kanpyo 干瓢” (which I have not been able to get for some time. The only kind available was pre-seasoned and could not be used as a tie for kelp roll). I also got “Hidaka Kelp 日高昆布”.  “Hidaka” is a place in Hokkaido famous for producing a good quality eating (as opposed to broth making) kelp.

Sushi Taro Osechi box 2025

So, in the evening of January 1, we opened the osechi box. Picture #4 is the first layer. We quickly spotted our favorites; karasumi 唐墨 (right upper corner), kazunoko 数の子 herring roe and steamed uni 蒸しウニ.

Picture #5 is the second layer. We spotted  monk fish liver terrine or “ankimo tofu” あん肝豆腐 in the upper center. Another of our favorites.

The first serving of the evening is shown in picture #6. From right to left are cured Spanish mackerel 鰆喜鮨, caramelized crispy baby shrimp 小海老の甘露煮, steamed sea urchin 蒸しウニ, miso cured herring roe 数の子味噌ずけ, burdock root 叩きごぼう, behind the vegetables is steamed ground shrimp wrapped in “yuba” tofu skin 海老真蒸湯葉巻き, monk fish liver terrine あん肝豆腐, and karasumi 唐墨. Two small ones are bottarga for comparison. Everything was excellent. The karasumi is wonderful. By comparison, Sushi Taro karasumi was slightly saltier (not in a bad way) but we enjoyed both the karasumi and bottarga

Since we had cold sake with our ozouni お雑煮 (picture #3), for a change, we had scotch and bourbon (picture #7, Ballantine’s 17 year old and Maker’s Mark). We have not drunk hard liquor in ages. (We generally go for wine or sake). So, we added a lot of water and ice to make the drink not too strong. I had the Scotch and my wife had the bourbon.

The second serving of the evening (picture #8) included sake steamed shrimp 長寿海老, red and white fish cake 紅白蒲鉾 (we had it with wasabi and soy sauce), beef and duck (I warmed them up in the toaster oven, which made them fantastic) and other things.

This was a wonderful start of 2025. We will be enjoying and indulging for a few more days until we finish the osechi box.

Table of Contents 2025

January 2025
January 2     Happy New Year 2025 謹賀新年2025
January 5     Sushi Taro Osechi box 2025
January 8     Sushi Taro New Year Soba 手打ち蕎麦
January 11    Grilled “Tai” Perch Seasoned Rice 鯛飯もどき
January 14     “Karasumi” Japanese Bottarga from Maruhide 丸秀の唐墨
January 17    Bottarga/Karasumi Taste Test 日本の唐墨とサルジニアのボタルガの味比べ
January 20    Apple Pie Muffin and Pan Cake アップルパイ　マフィン
January 23    “Endless” Konnyaku 無限コンニャク
January 26    Mock Tofu 擬制豆腐
January 29    Apple Fritter アップルフリッター

February 2025
February 1    Braised Eggplant with Ground Chicken 茄子のそぼろ煮
February 4    Sashimi Daikon Garnish 刺身の大根つま/けん
February 7    Wild Rice Salad ワイルドライスサラダ
February 10    Apple Pie Muffin Made with Juiced Apple アップルパイマフィン
February 13    Chocolate Milk Bread チョコレートミルクパン
February 19    Ricotta Lemon Cookie リコッタチーズ　レモンクッキー
February 21    Assorted Japanese Mini-pans 日本のミニ菓子パン各種
February 24    Quesadilla with Mini-corn Tortilla and Browned Cheese
February 27    Burdock Root Kelp Roll ごぼうの昆布巻き

March 2025
March 2    Anchovy Onion Cocktail Biscuit アンチョビイと玉ねぎカクテルビスケット
March 6    Shrimp Chicken Gyouza エビと鶏肉の餃子
March 9    Chickpea fries ひよこ豆フライ
March 19    Babka Cookie Muffin バブカ　クッキー　マフィン
March 22    Nappa Cabbage Cream Stew 白菜のクリームシチュー
March 30    Jubako for “hanami” cherry blossom gazing 花見用市松模様の重箱

April 2025
April 2    Hanami 2025 花見2025
April 5    Hanami #2 花見＃2
April 8    “Cotton Candy Grape Muffin” “わたあめブドウ” のマフィン
April 11    “Cotton Candy Grape” Panna Cotta “わたあめブドウ“ パンナコッタ
April 14    Carrot Salad Muffin 人参サラダ入りマフィン
June 2025

June 12    Tokyo Kyobashi Areas Izakayas (part 1) 東京の居酒屋　東京駅八...
June 15    Cream Cheese with Pickled Daikon クリームチーズ　沢庵入り
June 18    Tokyo Kyobashi Areas Izakayas (part 2) 東京の居酒屋　東京駅八...
June 21    “Renkon” Lotus Root in sweet vinegar 酢れんこん
June 24    Tokyo Kyobashi Areas Izakayas (part 3) 東京の居酒屋　東京駅八...
June 27    Lemon Crumb Bar レモンクラムバー
June 30    Tokyo Kyobashi Areas Izakayas (part 4) 東京の居酒屋　東京駅八...


July 2025
July 3    Matcha Almond Pancake (again) 抹茶アーモンドパンケーキ
July 6    Izakaya in Kanazawa 金沢の居酒屋
July 9    Topping of Katsu-Don カツ丼のあたま
July 12    Kyoto Izakaya in Kyoto Station area part 1 京都駅付近の居...
July 15    Vinegar Cured Mackerel Sushi with Shiro-ita Kelp バッテラ
July 18    Kyoto Izakaya in Kyoto Station Area Part 2 京都駅駅付近付...
July 21    Pea, Ricotta ad Mint Gazpacho えんどう豆、リコッタチーズとミントのガス...
July 24    Tottori Izakaya and Shinkansen “Izakaya” 鳥取の居酒屋と新幹...
July 27    Pea, Avocado and Mint Blini グリーンピー、アボカド、ミント　ガスパッチョ
July 30    Izakaya in Sapporo Part 1 札幌の居酒屋パート1

August 2025
August 2    Chilean Sea Bass in Sweet “Saikyo” Miso メロの西京味噌焼き
August 5    Izakaya in Sapporo Part2 札幌の居酒屋パート2
August 8    Cream Cheese Muffin クリームチーズマフィン
August 11    Sapporo Lunch Places Part 1札幌の昼ごはん パート1
August 14    Pork Vindaloo with Baby Corn and Edamame ポーク “ビンダル...
August 17    Izakaya in Sapporo Part3 札幌の居酒屋パート3
August 20    Impromptu Eggplant Mushroom Stir-fry 茄子と椎茸のオイスターソース炒め
August 23    Sapporo Lunch places part2 札幌の昼ごはん　パート2
August 26    Cold Udon with Sesame Sauce 胡麻ソース和え冷製うどん
August 29    Izakaya in Sapporo Part 4 札幌の居酒屋パート4

September 2025
September 1    Savory Breakfast Mini Cheesecakes ミニチーズケーキ
September 4    Izakaya in Sapporo Part 5 札幌の居酒屋パート5
September 7    Mapo (sort of) Eggplant “麻婆風” 茄子
September 10    Izakaya in Sapporo Part 6 札幌の居酒屋パート6
September 13    Oyster Mushroom and Chiku-wa Stir-fly with Yuzu-ko...
September 16    Cheese Straws チーズツイスト
September 19    Small Dishes or “Sake-no-sakana” 酒の肴
September 21    Prosciutto, dates, and goat cheese bites
September 24    Cabbage and pork belly stir-fry キャベツと豚バラの炒め物
September 27    Scallop fry ホタテのフライ
September 30    Yellow Squash Garlic Bites イエロースクワシュ、ガーリックバイツ

October 2025
October 3    Green Yuzu, “Kinome” Japanse pepper leaves 青柚子と木の芽
October 6    Japanese “Mizu” eggplant Asazuke 水茄子の浅漬け
October 9    Spanish Mackerel dumpling Soup topped with “Kinome...
October 12    Cucumber with Miso Sauces 味噌胡瓜
October 15    Moon gazing 10/6/2025 月見
October 18    Dishes from Yellowfin Tuna Sashimi Block キハダマグロ刺身の柵

Norwegian Mackerel Teriyaki 冷凍ノルウエイ鯖の照り焼き

We used to get fresh whole mackerel from Whole Foods or Hmart (via the Instacart) but we have not gotten whole mackerel for some time. At one time, I got frozen filets of Norwegian mackerel at our Japanese grocery store. I figured the time had come to use this. I was not sure if the filets were already salted (many frozen filets of mackerel appear salted), but there was no indication on the package. I thought about making salt grilled 塩焼きor miso simmered 味噌煮 but decided to make “teriyaki 照り焼き”. We served this with Shiitake mushroom risotto. A bit of a cultural mixture but both went well together. Since I took some care to reduce the fishiness, it had a good teriyaki taste (I did not use sugar in the sauce just mirin). The only problem (especially for my wife) is that these filets had quite a few small bones.

Ingredients:
2 frozen filets of Norwegian mackerel, thawed
2-3 tbs sake
Salt
AP flour
1 tbs vegetable oil

For teriyaki sauce
2 tbs mirin
2 tbs x4 concentrated Japanese noodle sauce

Directions:
After thawing, I wrapped the filets with sake soaked paper towels and let them sit in the refrigerator for 1 hour or so.
I then patted the filets dry with paper towels and salted them on both sides and let them sit at room temperature for 20 minutes and again patted dry the surface.
I cut a shallow oblique cut on the skin and then cut one filet into 4 portions.
I then dredged in flour.
I placed the filet portions skin side down in the frying pan with the vegetable oil on medium low flame.
I let it cook mostly from the skin side. After 5-6 minutes when the edges got opaque in the thick portions and top became opaque in the thin portions, I flipped it over to finish cooking (you can slightly under cook at this point since it is further cooked in the teriyaki sauce). Remove the fish and set aside. Wipe the oil from the pan clean.
Add the mirin and noodle sauce on medium high flame and let it reduce in half.
Add back the fish and coat all sides with the sauce until the liquid is almost evaporated.

I made the teriyaki sauce not too sweet. This was quite good especially for frozen mackerel and it was good to taste mackerel again after such a long time. But the bones were quite a botheration. When I filet the fresh mackerel myself, I remove most of the bones. I could have done this. Maybe next time.

Table of contents 2024

January 2024
January 1,    Happy New Year 2024 明けましておめでとう2024 
January 5,    Tomato and Egg Stir-fry with Wood Ear and Natto 納豆、トマト、木耳の卵炒め
January 22,   Goat Cheese Scallion Muffin ゴートチーズと青葱マフィン
January 25,   White "Pineberry" and Red "Koyo" Stawberries 白いイチゴと昂揚イチゴ
January 28,   Beef with Kon-nyaku and Vegetable "Kimpira" Stir Fry 牛肉と蒟蒻の金平

February 2024
February 3,     Chestnut Brown Butter, Sage Muffin 栗の粉とセイジマフィン
February 8,     Grated Lotus Root and Tofu Ball レンコン豆腐饅頭
February 11,    Sweet Onion Bread Pudding 玉ねぎのブレッドプデｨング
February 15,    Shad Roe from South Carolina 南カロライナからのシャドロウ
February 18,    Cranberry Camembert Cheese Bites クランベリーソース、カマンベールチーズ　バイツ
February 21,    Simmered Shad Roe with Vegetables シャドロウの煮付け
February 24,    Shad Roe Pasta  シャドロウパスタ
February 27,    Pickled Cucumber キュウリの漬物

March 2024
March 1,    “Maitake” Hen of the Woods Mushroom in Brown Butter and Sage 焦がしバターとセイジ風味舞茸
March 4,    Instant Pot BBQ Baby Back Ribs バーベキューベイビーバックリブ
March 7,    Salted Oatmeal Cookie 塩味オートミールクッキー
March 10,  Lobster Salad ロブスターサラダ
March13,    “Roman” Gnocchi ローマンニョキ
March 22,   Duck Tender Cutlet and Arancini 鴨ささ身のカツレツ
March 25,   Mary Walsh’s Currant Cake マリーウオルシュのカラントケーキ
March 28,   St. Patrick’s Day Dinner, Lamb Chops and Cabbage with bacon セントパトリックのディナー

April 2024
April 6,    Pumpkin “Kabocha” salad カボチャのサラダ
April 10,    Mini Fruit Galettes ミニフルーツガッレト 
April 21,    Spinach Soufflé (easy version) ほうれん草のスフレ 
April 30,    Frangipane Rolls フランジパンロール 

May 2024
May 13,    Pickled Micro Cucumber and Daikon 小さなキュウリと大根のピクルス 
May 15,    Steamed Carrot Buns with Ginger Custard 人参蒸しパン生姜カス... 
May 18,    Braised Eggplant with Oyster Sauce 茄子と椎茸のオイスターソース炒め
May 21,    Creamed Spinach with Cauliflower Puree カリフラワーピュレのク
May 24,    Anchovy Salad アンチョビサラダ
May 27,    Daikon Steak and Two Appetizers 大根ステーキ
May 30,    Focaccia Bread Baked in Breville Pizzaiolo Indoor Pizza Oven 

June 2024
June 2,    Steak and 2004 Joseph PhelpさんInsignia ステーキデｨナーと2004 インシグニア
June 5,    Gyoza made with New Round Gyoza Skin 日本風の餃子の皮で作った餃子 
June 8,    Filled Wool Bread 毛糸のパン 
June 11,    Shrimp Shumai 海老焼売 
June 14,    Pumpernickel Boule ドイツ黒パン 
June 17,    Ice Breaker “Summer” Sake 玉川アイスブレイカー酒 
June 20,    Carrot Panna Cotta 搾りたて人参ジュースのパナコタ
June 23,    Miso-marinated Firefly Squid ホタルイカの味噌焼き 
June 26,    Wood Ear Mushroom and Wakame Salad 木耳とわかめの和物 
June 29,    Nine “Otoshi” Appetizers お通し九種類

July 2024
July 2,    Egg roll 春巻き
July 5,    Red and Green Udon “Pasta” with Prosciutto 生ハムのせ赤と緑のうどんパスタ
July 8,    Pizza Made in Indoor Electric “Pizzaiolo” Pizza Oven 
July 11,    Garlic Chive Dumpling ニラ頭饅 or 韮菜万頭
July 14,    Mitsuba ミツバ 
July 17,    Dassai 45 and Dassai blue comparison 獺祭45とDassai Blue 50 飲み比べ 
July 28,    Cucumber in soy sauce 胡瓜の醤油漬け
July 31,    Tofu, Egg and Garlic Chives Stir Fry 豆腐ニラ玉、木耳入り

August 2024
August 9,    Home Coffee Roasting 緑コーヒー豆の自家焙煎 
August 12,    Icelandic Pumpernickel (Rye) Bread アイスランドのライ麦パン

September 2024
September 2,    Smelt Fry シシャモフライ
September 5,    Pesto Blini ペストビリニ 
September 8,    Yakitori de le Canard 鴨ささみで焼き鳥 
September 11,    Vegetables in Cold Broth 冷製のトマトの煮浸し 
September 14,    Pesto Blini Prosciutto Cheese Sandwich ペストビリニの生ハムチーズサンド
September 17,    Chicken Tender Fry with Salted Plum Sauce and Perilla ささみの梅大葉揚げ 
September 21,    Simmered Dried Daikon Threads 切り干し大根の煮物 
September 24,    Fresh Corn Blini コーンビリニ 
September 27,    Stir-fried Eggplant and Shiitake in Oyster Sauce 茄子と椎茸のオイスターソース炒め... 
September 30,    Mashed Potato Blini マシュポテトのビリニ

October 2024
October 3,    Five appetizers お通し５品
October  10,    Hen-of-the-Woods Grilled Cheese 舞茸のチーズ焼き
October 13,    Strawberry Blini いちごビリニ 
October 16,    Enoki mushroom frittata エノキ　オムレツ/フリッタータ 
October 19,    Kabocha salad カボチャサラダ 
October 22,    Matsutake (from Weee) Touban-yaki 松茸の陶盤焼き 
October 25,    Black Cod Marinated in Saikyo miso 銀鱈の西京(味噌)焼き
October 28,    Egg-wrapped Kabocha カボチャの黄金焼き 
October 31,    Almond Olive Oil Cake アーモンドオリーブオイルケーキ

November 2024
November 3,    Hiyaoroshi Sake Dewanoyuki “Sho-nai Bijin” 出羽ノ雪　冷やおろし庄内美人
November 6,    Hiyaoroshi Sake “Shichi Hon Yari” 七本槍　純米ひやおろし 
November 9,    Prosciutto-wrapped Haddock 生ハム巻きハドック (コダラ) 
November 12,    Marinated Chicken Tender Cutlet 鳥のささみのカツレツ
November 15,    Crispy Enoki Mushroom エノキのパリパリ焼き
November 18,    Bagel ベーグル 
November 21,    Chestnut Apple Soup クリとリンゴのスープ 
November 24,    Norwegian Mackerel Teriyaki 冷凍ノルウエイ鯖の照り焼き 
November 27,    “Imo-ni” Stew famous in Yamagata 芋煮庄内風 
November 30,    Matsutake and beef cooked in an Aluminum Foil Pouch 松茸と牛肉のフォイル焼き

December 2024
December 8,    Chestnut olive oil bread 栗とオリーブオイルケーキ
December 11,    Marinated Tofu and Egg Sir fry 味付け豆腐の卵炒め 
December 16,    Braised daikon with carrot, wood ear, and fried tofu 大根と人参の炒め物
December 19,    “Taco Carnitas”-ish タコ カルニタもどき
December 21,    Tofu in Warm Broth ミニ湯豆腐

Soft Boiled Duck Eggs 半熟アヒルの卵

This is continuation of the duck eggs we got from Weee. Since we do not want to worry about a potential Salmonella problem, I pasteurized the duck eggs. I managed to make soft boiled duck eggs with runny yolk (see below). I somehow cut across the egg rather than usual halving the egg length-wise. In any case, the yolk was very rich and creamy. Interestingly, egg white clearly (more pronounced as compared to hen egg) showed two layers; an inner layer that did not congeal as firmly as the outer layer egg white.

I topped this with “ikura” salmon roe and a bit of soy sauce. This is a very luxurious appetizer.

Actually, this was part of the evening offerings. I made “bo-zushi” 棒鮨 of pickled mackerel with kelp. a very small sashimi assortment.

1. How to pasteurize duck eggs: Since duck eggs are larger than hen eggs (in our case no more than 30%), I used 57C for 2 hours instead of 75 minutes for hen’s eggs. As before, when the 2 hours were up, I immediately soaked the eggs in ice water for 30 minutes or more and placed them in the refrigerator.

2. How to make soft-boiled duck eggs with runny yolk: According to the on-line instructions I found, place the duck eggs in cold water and when the water starts simmering, cook another 6-7 minutes. I was not sure if I should pierce the shell on the air cell side (bland end) to prevent the egg from cracking. In the end, I did. One of the eggs extruded a thin thread of yolk. Next time, I will not pierce the shell and see what happens. After 7 minutes, I soaked the eggs in ice cold water. We peeled the shell after 30 minutes and the eggs were cooled down. It was difficult to peel. My wife did a better job.

We are quite satisfied with the soft-boiled duck eggs only if we can peel it more easily.

Canned Mackerel, Cabbage and Egg Stir-fry サバ缶とキャベツの卵炒め

We found a few cans of mackerel (Japanese.style cooked in water) which were approaching the BUB (best-used-by date) tucked away in the pantry. We bought these and other canned items during the height of COVID when protein shortages started to materialize. Those times have thankfully passed so I decided I could use the “emergency” mackerel to make a small appetizer. I have made and posted a few dishes made from canned mackerel. This is not particularly original but it worked well. Since I recently got fresh quail eggs, I used them to make miniature fried eggs and topped this dish. As a result, in the picture the mackerel part of the dish, is a bit obscured by the fried quail egg.

The below is the picture of another serving a few days later. I added boiled quail eggs which had been marinated.

This is based on the recipe on line (in Japanese).

Ingredients:
One can of mackerel in brine or “Saba-no-mizuni” 鯖の水煮
3-4 leaves of cabbage, thick vein removed and cut into bite-size square
2 shiitake mushrooms, stem removed and sliced (optional)
1 egg
1 tbs vegetable or olive oil
salt and pepper

Directions:
Make scrambled egg and set asdie
sauté the cabbage for few minutes
Add the mackerel and stir for few more minutes
Plate and top with the scrambled egg
Season with salt and pepper

This is an ok dish to use up the canned mackerel…actually tasted pretty good. It was even better the next day with the marinated quail eggs.

Nattou ball 納豆つくね

This recipe also came from a YouTube episode by the original Japanese Iron chef Rokusaburo Michiba 道場六三郎. He made two dishes from nattou 納豆, the infamous sticky and smelly Japanese dish of fermented soybeans, which often appears as part of breakfast. Nattou is most commonly eaten over rice for breakfast. Another less common but popular way is in miso soup for a dish which is called “Nattou-jiru” 納豆汁. Even among the Japanese, some (especially from “Kansai” 関西 west part of Japan) do not eat it and some love it. (I belong to the latter category). 

For many years my wife referred to nattou as the one Japanese food she just could not eat—the smell, the sliminess, the fermented taste.  (Every culture seems to have a dish like this; an acquired taste developed in childhood. Think ripe French cheese or Australian vegemite. And for me, believe it or not, cooked oatmeal).  Then my mother learned that the natto-nastiness could be alleviated by stirring it. She recommended several hundred turns would do the trick. The stirring apparently enters air into the natou that helps remove the smell and stringy sliminess. All of a sudden natto was on my wife’s menu. 

I have made quite a few dishes with nattou, many of which are focused on reducing the stickiness and the smell. In any case, Michiba made a miso soup but, instead of mixing nattou into the soup, he made nattou into balls which he called “nattou-tsukume*”  and then put it into miso soup. I made it as a small appetizer one evening.  I put a small amount of miso soup (made it a bit stronger) as a sauce and topped it with Japanese mustard (see picture below)

* “Tsukune”, “Tsukuneru” which means “knead” or “mix”, and is usually made from ground chicken and a most common item in “Yakitori” 焼き鳥.

I served two other small dishes; from left to right simmered “Kabocha” squash, miso simmered mackerel and nattou tsukune.

Ingredients (4 tsukune balls):

2 small individual packages of nattou (if frozen, thawed) with packets of sauce and mustard
1 stalk of chopped scallion
1 tbs katakuriko potato starch
2 cups of Japanese dashi broth
1-2 tbs miso
Japanese hot mustard (from tube) slightly diluted with water for topping

Directions:
Prepare the natou by adding the sauce, mustard and the scallion. Mix well (stir over 100 time if you have the time), add the potato starch and mix.
Using two spoons, moistened, I made four quenelles (or moisten your hands and make small balls) and drop them in the simmering broth.
Cook it for several minutes (see below).
You could dissolve the miso and serve this as “miso soup”. I wasn’t ready to serve the dish so I separated the nattou balls and the broth and placed them in a sealed containers and in the refrigerator.
Before serving, I warmed up the nattou balls in the preserved broth. I took out a small amount of broth and dissolved the miso to taste.
I served the miso broth in a small dish, with the nattou ball and topped with the mustard

This is a very interesting dish. The hot Japanese mustard made this dish. Although the nattou balls tasted like nattou to me, the texture and smell is quite acceptable (especially for my wife’s palate). “Mikey liked it!”

“Canned mackerel and hanpen” Satsuma-age like fish cake 鯖缶とはんぺんの薩摩揚げ

Canned mackerel or “saba-kan” 鯖缶 is a very popular canned fish item in Japan and is readily available in the U.S. Upon inspection, of the canned mackerel in our pantry, I realized that the “Best used by” date had just passed on one of the cans. (I thought canned food lasted forever but that is apparently not the case). I needed to use this can fast and I then saw a perfect  recipe of fried fishcake on the Japanese website I follow using canned mackerel and “Hanpen” fishcake はんぺん.  This type of fishcake is called “Satsuma-age” さつま揚げ, which is a very common dish served grilled in Izakaya. Although I attempted to make Satusma-age from scratch, it was not quite authentic due to the lack of appropriate kinds of fish. The current version is interesting because instead of using ground fish meat “surimi” すり身 which is the authentic way to make Satuma-age this recipe used a mixture of canned mackerel and hanpen.  I served this with the usual grated ginger and soy sauce. It does not have the texture of authentic Sastuma-age but this was good; crispy outside and tender inside with the firmer texture of edamame and carrot. It all worked. The inclusion of ginger and deep frying toned down the otherwise strong flavor of the mackerel. This is a perfect dish with sake.

Ingredients:
One can of boiled (Mizu-ni 水煮) mackerel (190 grams with the liquid, about 150 grams fish meat), drained and crumbled
2 hanpen steamed fish cakes, frozen, thawed (240 grams), cut into small pieces.
1 tbs potato starch
1 tsp sugar
30 grams julienned carrot(1/3 of medium carrot), boiled or microwaved for 30 seconds
60 grams cooked and shelled edamame
1/2 tsp grated ginger

Peanut oil for shallow frying

Directions:
Mix all the ingredients until completely incorporated (The original recipe placed everything in a plastic bag and hand massaged it to make the dough, I did not have the patience to do that so I used an immersion blender, #1).
Mix in the edamame and carrot and make flat ovals (I made 8) (#2)
Add the oil to the frying pan to the depth of 5mm and heat to around 350F and shallow fry for 3 minutes (#3)
Turn over and fry the other side for 3 minutes (#4)
Drain and serve immediately (or once refrigerated, toaster-oven to warm).

This is not Satsuma-age but it is a nice fishcake and we really like it. Since the ingredients (hanpen and canned mackerel) are easy to get, this is a good and easy dish to make.

Mackerel hand-shaped sushi 鯖の棒鮨

Shime-saba しめ鯖 is vinegar pickled mackerel and a very popular item in Japan. The best is fresh local “branded” mackerel (such as “Seki-saba” 関鯖) prepared in-house but, nowadays, the risk of Anisakis is rising possibly due to warming of the sea water. (The fresher the mackerel the higher the Anisakis’ risk. In addition, curing the fish in salt and vinegar does not kill the Anisakis but freezing does). We can easily get shime-saba in the U.S. packaged and frozen. Although there are so many varieties of  mackerel, most frozen packages coming from Japan to the U.S. use mackerel from Norway as I understand it. I have posted molded sushi made of shime saba which is called “baterra” バッテラ or “oshizushi” 押し寿司. This type of sushi is famous in the Kansai region 関西. In that post, I said that the classic preparation requires a thinly shaven sheet of kelp called “Shiroita konbu” 白板昆布 placed on top of the fillet of fish. Such a preparation is next to impossible to get here in US. Some days ago, however, I found a package of frozen mackerel with a sheet of kelp already on it in Tako Grill’s frozen case and got it. This must be a new product which became available recently since I saw the identical item at the Japanese grocery store as well as at Catalina Offshore products. 

Instead of using a mold to shape the sushi, I made it freehand which is called “Bou-zushi” 棒鮨 (“bou” means a rod or stick). The picture below shows the “saba-no-bouzushi” 鯖の棒鮨 I served as the ending shime dish one evening. As you can see, the surface of the fish is covered with a layer of thinly shaven kelp.

Ingredients:
One package of frozen vinegar cured mackerel as described above, thawed, tail portion cut and tucked in to make an even width.
Sushi rice (my wife made fresh rice for this).


Directions:
Instead of using oshizushi mold, I formed a log of the sushi rice about the same length and width as the mackerel by hand (you need to wet your hand).
Using a silicon sushi rolling mat (relatively recent acquisition, you could use a regular bamboo mat covered with plastic wrap or wet tea towel), place the mackerel skin or kelp side down.
Place the log of the rice onto the mackerel.
Press the rice lightly against the mackerel and roll the silicon mat (top image in the picture below)
Tighten the mat and also press on both sides of the rice to make the rice and the mackerel form a slightly flattened cylinder and unroll (bottom image in the picture below).

Wet the knife and slice about half inch thick (below).

In this cut surface, you could see bottom rice layer and top mackerel layer and surface kelp layer.

This was a very satisfying dish. The layer of mackerel was very thick, but very tender and well seasoned. My wife really like this and said the ratio of sushi rice to fish was perfect. With the addition of kelp layer, it is authentic and tastes better (I think). Since I did not have to find and soak the mold ahead of time, this method was a bit easier to make.

Simmered eggplant and shime-saba with grated daikon 茄子の忘れ煮としめ鯖のおろし和え

These are four appetizers we started with one evening. I tend to make the same things we like but this time, for a change, I made two new dishes. In the picture below, clock-wise from upper left are vinegar cured Japanese mackerel or "shime-saba" in grated daikon dressed in ponzu しめ鯖のおろし和え, long simmered Japanese eggplant or 茄子の忘れ煮, squid "shiokara" 塩辛 and salmon "nanban" 鮭の南蛮漬け.

I bought a package of frozen vinegar cured Japanese mackerel or "shime-saba" from the Japanese grocery store and realized I already had another package in the freezer. So I decided to use the old package. I have served this several different ways including simple sashimiしめ鯖の刺身, ceviche  鯖のサビーチェ, and moulded sushi 鯖の押し寿司. I saw this recipe on line and made some modifications. This is very similar to what I made using tuna sashimi 鮪のおろし和え, previously. I garnished this with chiffonade of perilla and a wedge of lemon. I served this the evening I made it and then, again the following evening. After some time in the fridge, the flavors amalgamated and it got much better.

Ingredients:
One package of shime-saba, thawed, lightly washed with sake, patted dry, thin skin removed, and then cut into thin (1/4 inch) slices.
2 tbs ponzu shoyu ポン酢醤油 (from the bottle, or equal mixture of rice vinegar or citrus juice and soy sauce)
2 inch long daikon, peeled and grated and excess moisture drained*
Rehydrate dried seaweed mixture, arbitrary amount (optional)
Chiffonade of perilla and lemon wedge for garnish

*I use a grater with a meshed receptacle inside the bottom container which automatically drains excess moisture from grated daikon (or any other items). I made  sure to taste before assembling into the dish since some daikon is atomically hot. This one was ok.

Directions:
In a bowl, add the shime-saba, grated diakon, seaweed and ponzu and mix, I also added additional yuzu juice (from the bottle) for a good measure. I let it marinate for several hours to overnight, then topped it with the perilla and lemon.

This is a good dish. The daikon really makes this dish and goes perfectly with cold sake.

I made the eggplant dish since I got 2 Japanese eggplants at the Japanese grocery store a week ago and did not immediately use them. (My wife was kind enough to reminded me that eggplant, even the Japanese kind, does not improve with age.) The dish is also from the same web site I got the recipe for the mackerel dish. I decided to make this since it does not use any oil and looked healthy and simple. The Japanese name is "Wasure-ni" 忘れ煮 meaning "forgot that it was still simmering" indicating involving long simmering. The original recipe calls for "hoshi-ebi" 干しエビ, small dried shrimp, which is used to add "umami" flavor and fresh "myouga" 茗荷 but I did not have either one so I skipped the shrimp and substituted fresh myouga with vinegard myouga 茗荷の甘酢漬け we made almost one year ago as a garnish. I added slices of ginger in the simmering liquid whihc was not part of the original recipe. I served this with blanched broccoli rabe which is the closest we can get to "Nanohana" 菜の花.

Ingredients:
One Japanese eggplant (this one was on the larger side), remove the stem end, cut in quarters lengthwise, multiple thin slice cuts on the bias through the skin into the flesh but not all the way through and immediately soak in salted cold water for 10-20 minutes.
2 slices of ginger
Threads of ginger root for garnish (skin, slice thinly and then cut into thin threads).

For broth
1 cup Bonito broth (I made it from a dashi pack)
1/3 cup of concentrated Japanese noodle sauce (or mirin and soy sauce in equal amount).
two slices of ginger (original recipe calls for 1 tbs dried shrimp)

Directions:
Heat up the simmering broth until boiling
Put the prepared egg plant, the ginger slices and cover with a inner "otoshi" buta 落とし蓋 (I used a silicon "otoshi-buta" or cover it with an aluminum foil made it to a round, slight smaller than the pot opening, place the lid and simmer for 20-30 minutes.

This is a really good dish. The eggplant got really soft and absorbed the flavors of the broth. I served it cold which is perfect for summer.

The picture below is the usual salmon dish I make which is always good with cold sake.

Shown below is frozen "shiokara" from the pouch. Again, only the drink that goes with this is sake.

So, we enjoyed all four appetizers with a sips of cold sake. Our home Izakaya is not bad at all.