Sunday, March 9, 2025
Chickpea fries ひよこ豆フライ
Ingredients(We halved the recipe which made about 20 fries)
1 teaspoons olive oil, plus more for greasing the parchment
2 cups water
1 cups (120 grams) chickpea flour
1/2 teaspoon fine salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Directions
Cut two pieces of parchment paper to fit a 9-by-13-inch sheet pan or casserole dish. Use a little olive oil to lightly grease one side of each piece of parchment. Place one parchment piece on the bottom of the baking sheet (oil side up) and reserve the other.
In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the olive oil and water. Just before it starts to boil, slowly sprinkle in the chickpea flour while whisking to remove many (if not all) of the clumps and form a smooth batter. Whisk in the salt and pepper and reduce the heat to low. Switch to a wooden spoon and cook, stirring constantly, until the batter stiffens and starts to pull away from the sides and/or bottom of the pan, 10 minutes.
Scoop the batter onto the greased parchment in the pan and spread it out evenly as quickly as you can (it will start to firm up as it cools). Place the second piece of paper, greased side down, on the batter and gently press to smooth it out evenly. Transfer the pan to the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes, until it has cooled and set. (we kept it in the fridge for three days before frying).
When the batter has set, remove the top paper and use a butter knife to cut the chickpea block into 20 sticks.
In our Tempura pot, heat the cirsco oil until it reaches 350F (or 180C) on an instant-read thermometer. Working in batches to avoid overcrowding, gently add the chickpea sticks to the oil and cook, turning with tongs when needed, until golden on both sides, about 3 to 5 minutes per side. Using the tongs, transfer to the rack to drain.
These were very good—crunchy on the outside silky smooth on the inside with a very subtle grainy taste. Initially they were extremely greasy but over time the excess grease got absorbed and added to the outside crispiness. We subsequently read that instead of frying they should be sautéed in a frying pan with a small amount of oil which would significantly reduce the greasiness. These crisped up very nicely in the toaster oven.
Tuesday, February 4, 2025
Sashimi Daikon Garnish 刺身の大根つま/けん
Besides being decorative, there are thought to be several purposes for these garnishes: 1) to refresh your mouth, 2) help keep the sushi fresh (preservative effect) (this is attributed especially to daikon), 3) draining excess moisture away from the sashimi so it isn’t sitting in exuded moisture. Daikon garnish is especially noted for this when it is placed underneath the sashimi. But in the end, I think, being decorative and traditional are the main reasons for why the “tsuma” sashimi garnish is used. Although eating “tsuma” is not against the etiquette (which I often do but only a small portion of it), the vast majority of “tsuma” is untouched and discarded after serving its purpose much like parsley garnish in the west. I have seen that, in some sushi bars in Japan, after the sashimi was served, the chef will make a small hand roll of these garnishes and serve it to the guests. Some sushi bars or Izakaya may not use garnish at all or instead of the traditional garnishes, use other green leafy vegetables.
One evening, I served a small assorted sashimi plate (picture #1) which included tuna chutoro 鮪の中トロ, scallop ホタテ, botan-ebi shrimp ボタン海老. I also serve tuna and avocado cubes 鮪とアボカドの角切り. All came from Riviera Sea Food Club. Later I fried up the shrimp heads as tempura 海老の頭の天ぷら. All are good but the point of this post is the “tsuma” garnish. I added the “diakon-no-ken 大根のけん” and perilla leaves from our window sill planter.
Among the “tsuma” garnishes, thinly julienned items are called “ken 劍” which means “sword” apparently from its shape. To make this properly, after the skin is peeled, the inner part is peeled into paper thin layers called “Katsura-muki 桂むき” which produce a long, paper thin sheet of daikon. This is cut into manageable size, stacked and then julienned. Katsura-muki is one of the most difficult Japanese knife skills and it is beyond me. Other alternatives are special cutters. The cheaper one is essentially a spiral cutter which does not produce a true “ken”. The more expensive cutters indeed produce “katsura-muki” and quite good “ken” which is being used in many sushi bars and Japanese restaurants in the US (and probably even in Japan since these cutters are designed and produced in Japan including commercial motorized ones).
So, when I serve sashimi, I do not add “daikon” garnish. Recently, however, when I was browsing the new Izakaya cook book called “Rintaro”, I found a short passage indicating you could make authentic “Daikon-no-ken” by using a regular slicer. I tried it and it worked (picture #2).
The important idea is how to preserve the direction of the fibers within the daikon. Once I figured how this would work, I tried it. I first cut the daikon into 2 inch lengths, peeled the skin, and using the Benriner slicer (#1 in the composite picture) adjusting to produce fairly thin slices, made the slices cut along the length. By slicing this way, the direction of the fiber is same as in the “katsura-kuki” sheet. I then stacked them (#2 in composite picture) and julienned along the length (#3 in composite picture). This method produces a nice crunchy consistency because it does not cut across the fibers of the daikon. Soak the julienne in cold water (#4 in composite picture) and then drain before serving. Because both slicing and julienne are done with sharp blades, the surface is shiny and the results are really good if not perfect.(Picture #2).
I am sure this is a very minor thing but I feel better knowing I can do this without mastering the katsura-muki technique. By the way, my wife and I enjoyed all of the daikon garnish. Since we had excess of the “daikon tsuma”, I made Japanese style salad next day. I added cucumber and carrot prepared like the daikon. I made a simple Japanese style dressing mixing sweet vinegar, soy sauce (x4 concentrated noodle sauce) and sesame oil (picture #3) and served with chicken sausage with sage and apple we got from a local gourmet grocery store. The salad was nice accompaniment to the sausage and very refreshing.
Wednesday, January 8, 2025
Sushi Taro New Year Soba 手打ち蕎麦
The soba kit included the dipping sauce, condiments (thinly sliced scallion and fried tempura batter or “age-dama/ten-kasu” 揚げ玉・天かす), wasabi, and cumquat in syrup. The wasabi is for cold soba with dipping sauce. So I preserved it for other occasions.
I first diluted the dipping sauce with the kelp-bonito broth I made for the new year “ozouni” soup to taste (about the same amount as the sauce), added fresh shiitake mushrooms (caps only), wood ear and oyster mushroom (since I had all these mushrooms) and heated it up and gently simmered while I was preparing the soba. I also “borrowed” two slices of duck breast from the osechi box. I placed them in the warm soup for just 30 seconds before serving.
As per the instructions, I boiled the soba for 1 and half minutes, drained and washed gently in running cold water. I added the soup through the sieve in a pot on low flame so that the toppings would be separated (for better presentation). I added the cold washed soba into the soup and warmed it up for 30 seconds or so.
I placed the noodles and soup in the individual bowls, arranged the duck breast, mushrooms and garnished it with the age-dama and scallion. I served the cumquats as a side.
This was a very satisfying warm soba bowl. It is an upgraded version of “kake-soba” かけ蕎麦 or “tanuki-soba” たぬき蕎麦.
Monday, September 2, 2024
Smelt Fry シシャモフライ
As suggested above, two common ways of cooking are grilled or fried. Frying can be “kara-age”; fried dredged with flour/potato starch, or tempura and fry with breading. The night I cooked the capelin I was also making arancini, so I breaded the capelin and fried it. I also fried seasoned quail eggs. In the picture, the left two objects are halved arancini, center two are capelin fry and the right round one (half buried under the capelin) is a quail egg. Some of the capelin had roe and tasted especially good. The arancini was made from left-over shiitake risotto with a center of meting Mozzarella cheese which by definition could not taste bad.
There is no recipe for the Capelin fry. Dredge in flour, place it in egg water and bread it with Panko bread crumb and deep fry in 180F oil for several minutes. We are glad to now have reliable source of smelt/capelin.
Tuesday, July 2, 2024
Egg roll 春巻き
Since I did not measure the ingredients, this is not recipe but note to myself. The filling made a total of 14 egg rolls.
Ingredients:
3-4 leaves of cabbage, thick ribs removed and cut into small rectangles
1 small carrot, peeled, sliced and Julienned
Half of a package of boiled bamboo shoot, sliced and julienned
Ginger, skinned and thinly julienned
2 caps of fresh shiitake mushroom (dried could be better but I did not have time to rehydrate them )
1/4 package of dried rice “harusame” 春雨 noodle, soaked in boiling water for 5 minutes, cut into bite sized pieces
1 tbs vegetable oil plus a splash of sesame oil
4-5 slices of roasted pork julienned (or uncooked julien or ground pork and shrimp)
Egg roll wrappers
Mixture of water and flour to make a slurry/glue (to fasten the ends of the egg roll wrapper)
Seasonings:
2 tsp oyster sauce
2 tbs Xiaoshing wine
2 tbs Soy sauce
2 tsp potato starch + water to make slurry
Salt and pepper
1 tsp sesame oil
Directions:
In a wok on medium-high flame, add the oil and sauté the ginger, vegetables and the pork. Season with the salt and pepper. When, the vegetables are cooked add the seasonings and mix. Add the starch slurry and splash in the sesame oil and mix.
Spread the filling on a metal cookie sheet to cool to room temperature and then refrigerate covered.
(I made the egg rolls several days after I made the filling)
Assembly:
Place the wrapper diagonally and place the filling near center but more toward the bottom, fold the bottom corner over the filling and then both sides and roll. Paint the flour/water mixture on the far conner of the wrapper and complete the roll (see picture below). (I made the rolls 1-2 hours prior to cooking. I covered them and placed them in the refrigerator).
Instead of my regular “tempura” set up, I used a 10 inch frying pan for to “fry” them. Place the rolls with the end seam side down first and turn it over after the bottom is brown and continue cooking until the wrapper is all brown and crispy.
These were pretty good. The filling was adequately seasoned and the wrapper was crispy. Initially we thought there is too much wrapper as compared to the filling since we were more used to the proportions of gyoza. But over time the flavors melded together and actually tasted better. We discovered one egg roll made a nice lunch. Also they crisped up very nicely in the toaster oven.
Saturday, April 6, 2024
Pumpkin “Kabocha” salad カボチャのサラダ
This is just a note for myself.
Ingredients:
Kabocha squash, seeds removed, skin shaved off (optional), cut into half inch cubes
Raisins
For the dressing
Greek yogurt
Mayonnaise
Curry powder
Salt and pepper to taste
Directions:
Boil the kabocha in salted water for 5-7 minutes until cooked but not too mushy
Mix the ingredients for the dressing (about the same amount of mayo and yogurt, the amount of curry powder is to your liking)
For an impromptu salad, this was much better than I expected. The natural sweetness of the kabocha was complemented by the curry flavor. The mixture of the yogurt, mayo and kabocha made a nice creamy texture with some tartness. I will make this again.
P.S. Hawk joins us for Hanami 花見!
This year was a bit unusual for the cherry blossoms. The trees bloomed early and the blooms lasted for a long time. Since we have three trees with different bloom timing, we had a very long time to enjoy cherry blossoms or “Hanami”. One afternoon, a hawk joined us for Hanami! We looked out the window and there he was in all his magnificence sitting not ten feet from the window on the railing of the deck. We marveled at the image of such an awesome creature juxtaposed to the delicate loveliness of the cherry blossoms.
Thursday, September 29, 2022
Tempura 天麩羅
I have posted quite a few tempura dishes. But I have not made tempura for a long time. My wife wanted to have chicken kara-age 唐揚げ and I had marinated chicken thigh for “Kara-age” but I needed to use new oil since I discarded the old reused peanut oil the last time I made a deep fried dish. Since fresh clean oil is best for making tempura, as my wife’s suggested, I made a few tempura items before frying the kara-age. I made, shrimp, shiitake and green beans tempura.
Tuesday, January 4, 2022
New Year Soba 2022 新年そば 2022
When we get Sushi Taro Osechi すし太郎お節, we also order "toshi-koshi soba" 年越しそば or “going-over-the-year soba” every year. This soba is definitely very special since it is hand-made and hand-cut (or “Teuchi-soba” 手打ちそば) by Chef Kitayama. We remember when we had an omakase counter dinner some years ago before Covid, he discussed making soba with us. He showed us some soba dough which was too dry and talked about how he was planning on getting special “soba flour” 蕎麦粉 or buckwheat flour from Japan. We really appreciate this New Year soba because it's quality reflects Chef Kitayama's dedication. This year, the soba came as a complete kit with the dipping sauce and all the garnishes. It also included more precise instructions, from the chef, on how to prepare and serve the soba including the final directive; “slurp”.
I am repeating myself but when I was growing up, my family never had a tradition of "toshikoshi soba" or eating soba on New Year’s eve. Now, we also tend not to eat soba New Year eve but rather we enjoy the soba in the New Year. We hope, despite the delay in consumption, the same effects of bringing good luck and long life will be in effect. We've sometimes had the Sushi Taro soba as a warm soba but this time following the chef's instructions, we had the soba cold with dipping sauce (The way I served is called “mori-soba” 盛り蕎麦. If you are interested in different ways of serving and the respective names for soba dishes, please refer to Wikipedia). Although we rarely have cold soba, I remembered that we have a special soba serving plate/basket called “Soba-seiro” 蕎麦せいろ and a soba dipping bowl called “soba-choko” 蕎麦猪口 (which I use to make chawan-mishi). So this is the "Mori soba" set I served as a lunch on the 2nd day of the New Year.
A good dashi smell was perversive as soon as I opened the dipping sauce container. It was a gentle and great dipping sauce.
Wednesday, September 8, 2021
Renkon "hasami-age" with avocado and cod roe アボカドとたらこのレンコンはさみ揚げ
This is a rather unique and good dish. The renkon remains crispy and the avocado creamy with salty and lightly spicy (I did not add too much Sriracha) tarako flavors come through.
One segment of fresh renkon, peeled and sliced (about 1/2 to 2/3 inch thick, I got a total of 12 slices).
6 perilla leaves
One sac of tarako, roe scraped out from the sac (#1)
One ripe avocado, stone and skin removed (#2)
Sriracha or other hot sauce to taste
For tempura batter
1/4 cup cake flour plus a bit more for dredging the renkon slices
1/4 cup carbonated water
Oil for deep frying
Directions:
Mash and mix the avocado, tarako with the sriracha hot sauce to taste (#3 and #4).
Lightly dredge the renkon slices. Put on a perilla leaf and then 1/6 (2-3 tsp) of the stuffing (#5).
Top the stack with another slice of renkon. Press lightly to secure (#6).
Thursday, June 3, 2021
Mint and pea kakiage ミントと豌豆のかき揚げ
Sometime ago, I saw this recipe in the web version of a Japanese newspaper. I thought mint and pea kakiage (a type of tempura made with several small food items) かき揚げ was very interesting and unique but was dragging my feet in actually making it. The mint crop is flourishing in our herb garden and my wife harvested some to make mint tea recently. She reserved some mint leaves for me to use for this kakiage (so I found myself fresh out of any excuses for not making it.) Finally, I made this dish one weekend evening. I served it with wedges of lemon and green tea salt.
Ingredients (I did not precisely measure anything but it made four kaiage tempura).
About 1 cup of fresh mint leaves, washed and dried.
About 1/2 cup of peas (I used frozen petit peas, thawed).
Cake flour for dusting.
Peanut oil for frying.
For Tempura batter
About 1/2 cup cake flour
Cold carbonated water.
Directions:
Lightly dust the mint leaves and peas with the cake flour (#1 in the third picture)
Mix the cake flour and the carbonated water to make thin tempura batter and add the peas and mint leaves (#2)
Using a slotted spoon, I scooped up the mint and peas and slid the clump into the hot oil (350F) (#3)
Turning once, I fried them until crispy and slightly golden then drained them (#4)
We couldn’t taste much of the peas but this was very light, airy and crunchy with refreshing mint flavor. Perilla leaves, which are a bit similar to mint leaves, are a standard tempura item which I have used in several variations but mint leaves are certainly unique. Since we have a good supply of fresh mint leaves during the summer, we might try this in different combination...asparagus and mint immediately comes to mind.
Addendum
I made this dish again a few days later. I also found the original recipe and only thing I missed was adding potato starch (should equal 1/2 the amount of cake flour used). I also added fresh corn. I lowered the hot oil temperature to avoid browning. All worked better.
Sunday, January 31, 2021
Matcha green tea tasting 抹茶の飲み比べ
Two years ago I made green tea and black bean cake using the left-over "kuromame" 黒豆 black beans in syrup that came in the Sushi Taro osechi box. The recipe I used is in English in our blog. This year I commissioned my wife to take over making the green tea cake. Then, she pointed out that we were out of "matcha" 抹茶 green tea powder. I kept it in the freezer and mostly used it for cooking such as making "green tea salt" for tempura and apparently didn’t replace it after using it up. Since we are not physically going to our Japanese grocery store because of covid, I decided to get the green tea on line. Hibiki-an 響庵 is a company we have used in the past to get green tea and we could have gotten matcha from them but it is shipped directly from Japan and would have taken too long to get here. I then found "Matcha Kari" which imports its matcha stock from Japan but is located here so delivery time was much shorter. I bought a mid-priced tea from them called "First harvest sipping matcha". (According to Mach-kari’s, Hibiki-an’s, and other websites which sell matcha, they offer several grades of matcha which appear to range from lowest quality/lowest price to highest quality/highest price, identified as “culinary”, “sipping”, “ceremonial” and “competition”.) (Disclaimer: I am not sure if there is official grading of matcha and if so what the grades would be). While we were waiting for this to arrive, I happened to see, while picking up a take-out at Tako Grill, that they had the matcha tea brand we used to get from our Japanese grocery store. This was very reasonably priced ($0.28 per gram, while the one from Matcha Kari was $1.17 per gram or over 4 times more expensive). I assume that the one from Tako Grill was not as low-grade as “culinary” matcha according to the lexicon I outlined but would be at the lower end of “sipping“ grade. It also came from “Uji” 宇治 near Kyoto 京都. We have gotten regular Uji green tea (sencha 煎茶) from Hibiki-an in the past and it was pretty good. So as far as I was concerned this matcha (left in the picture below) was certainly good enough to make green tea cake. Then, a few days later we received the matcha from "matcha kari".
Saturday, August 17, 2019
Perilla-wrapped marinated tuna tempura 漬けマグロの青紫蘇包天ぷら
The perilla is from our herb garden. This year, our perilla went crazy and is almost 5 feed tall and the leaves are rather large. Although this is based on a recipe on line, I made some changes and used thin tempura batter instead of just potato starch. I also used toothpicks to secure the perilla. This perilla-wrapped tempura is similar to natto tempura I posted before.
I just cut thickly sliced tuna which was marinated into two bite size and wrapped it with half of the perilla leaves (depending on the size of the perilla, you may have to use a full leaf). I put a toothpick through to secure the perilla on the tuna.
I made thin tempura batter from cake flour and cold water. I coated the tuna package with the batter and fried it in 350F peanut oil for 30 seconds (I wanted the center still rare). Since the tuna was marinated, I did not have any dipping sauce or my usual green tea salt for this. This was quite good. The tuna almost tasted like beef with a crunchy curst nice perilla flavor. This will go with any kind of drink.
Friday, August 16, 2019
Otoshi 5 kinds お通し5種類
The left two are composed of spicy clam salad and seaweed salad. Both were store-bought and fairly good. If you avoid eating the conspicuous red peppers (seen at the upper left edge of the dish) the "spicy"clam salad is not too spicy. The seaweed salad appears artificially dyed but has a nice crunch.
The center two otoshi are sea food; boiled octopus leg 茹で蛸足 dressed in sumiso sauce 酢味噌 (I made the sumiso to my wife's spec "not too vinegary". I used dashi to get the consistency of the sauce). The dish on the right is perilla-wrapped "zuke" marinated tuna which I "stole" from the skewers destined to be made into tempura.
Although the tuna was marinated, I put on a few drops of wasabi soy sauce. I am now making different sauces ahead of time and storing them in the refrigerator in small squeeze bottles; (sauces like sumiso, wasabi soy sauce, mustard soy sauce, and sesame dressing.) This makes assembling multiple dishes more efficient. The last dish is eggplant and broccoli seasoned with black bean garlic and toubanjan (or Duabanjiang) sauce. I made this dish a few days ago to use up Italian eggplant leftover from making ratatouille. I made it sort of Chinese stir-fri-ish but I cannot even remember how I made it (I also used Japanese miso, come to think of it). It is not spicy and I added blanched sugar snaps for a color. Although I cannot reproduce it, my wife liked it.
So, this was a great start. I served few more small dishes and planed to finish with perilla-wrapped zuke tuna tempura.
Monday, June 11, 2018
Potato salad stuffed "chikuwa" fish cake 熊本惣菜ちくわサラダ
The recipe suggested tartar sauce or "chu-nou" sauce 中濃ソース but I only had "tonakatsu sauce".
Ingredients:
Three "chikuwa"fish cakes (frozen, I had one open package with three left), thawed (#1).
Potato salad (enough to stuff the three chikuwa (#3)
Oil for deep frying
Tempura batter (3 tbs of cake flour and about 1/3 cup cold water or additional water as needed to obtain the appropriate thickness of the batter).
Tonkatsu sauce
Directions:
Slit open the sides of the chikuwa along the length (#2).
Stuff the opening with the potato salad (#3) (over stuffing is recommended to get the right ratio of fish cake to potato salad).
Dredge in the tempura batter and deep fry until the crust is done and crispy (#4). Do not over fry since the fish cake may expand.
Drain the oil (#5).
Cut on bias into two pieces and serve (#6).
This is a good combination. I served this with skinned Campari tomato and baby arugula. The center was still cold (which was good). This is definitely a nice snack. After we ate one each, we went back to finish off the third and last one.
Tuesday, March 28, 2017
Nagaimo and salmon sausage Isobe fry 長芋とサーモンソーセージの磯辺揚げ
I cooked the nagaimo a bit too much but I just used the leftover nagaimo dish and converted to the current dish.
Ingredients (for two small servings):
Nagaimo, peeled and cut into half inch thick rounds (four)
Dashi broth, soy sauce, mirin and sake
Salmon sausages, sliced diagonally in half inch thick (four)
For the tempura batter
Cake flour and potato starch
Cold water
Dried "Aonori"
Directions:
1. Cook the nagaimo in seasoned broth (Japanese broth seasoned with soy sauce, mirin and sake) for few minutes and let it cool in the broth (see below, this one is cooked longer than called for in this dish).
2. Make the tempura batter by mixing the flours and "aonori" with cold water until desired consistency (I made this rather runny). Coat the nagaimo and sausages.
3. Heat vegetable oil (I used peanut oil) to 350F and deep fry for few minutes.
4. Drain and serve immediately.
Since this was converted from "simmered Nagaimo" dish, the nagaimo was cooked more than needed before it was deep fried. Still, it had nice crunchy texture. It has nice crust with aonori flavor. The salmon sausages also tasted much better than when we tasted as is. This was unusual but quite good tempura items.