Okonomi-yaki, Hiroshima style 広島風お好み焼き

We mentioned that the two major styles of okonomi-yaki are Osaka- 大阪風 and Hiroshima-style 広島風. We have been making variations of Osaka-style since Hiroshima-style appears more difficult to make at home. It is usually made on a grill and requires more technically difficult flipping traditionally done with a  special type of spatula. In addition because a type of fried egg and cooked noodles are added to the pancake, cooking these items to add to the okonomi-yaki requires additional cooking space. So it is more difficult to make Hiroshima-style at home especially if you do not have a fairly large grill and would have to make it in a frying pan.

We saw a few Youtube videos in which two frying pans were used to circumvent these difficulties. So, we decided to try it. The top layer of this version is a fried egg (yolk broken but not beaten before cooking) followed by the noodle, pork belly, tempura bits, scallion, cabbage and the bottom layer of the thin pancake/crepe. The picture shows the okonomi-yaki cut into serving pieces (by scissors), but before adding the topping and sauce.

The next picture is the cut surface showing the layers of the dish after toppings (julien of picked ginger, aonori) and sauces (okonomi-yaki sauce and Kewpie mayo) were added. This version is good with nice noodles but the crepe was basically non-existent. Compared to the Osaka-style in which the batter incorporated the cabbage, a thin crepe layer as used in the Hiroshima style made of the same batter has much less impact. We like this version with noodles but we prefer the Osaka-style especailly since it is much easier to make. There is also a variation of Osaka-style which includes noodles. It is usually called “Modan-yaki* モダン焼き. We may try that next.

*The origin of the name “modan” has two theories; one is that it was derived from the English word “modern” indicating this is new kind of okonomi-yaki, the other theory is it comes from a Japanese phrase “mori-dakusan 盛りだくさん” meaning “so many good things” which got abbreviated as “mo-da-n”.

This recipe, especially the directions, are mostly based on a YouTube episode by Koh Kentetsu using 8 and 10 inch frying pans (in Japanese).

Ingredients:
Batter (rather thin like crepe batter adjust the liquid amount)
50 grams Okonomi-yaki flour (or cake flour)
80 grams water or broth

3 scallions chopped (#3)
2 tbs tempura bits (#3)
2 strips of thin sliced pork belly
100 grams (more or less) shredded cabbage
1 package of  yakisoba noodle with seasoning (thawed or microwaved, see #5)
1 egg
2 tbs vegetable oil

Directions:
Add half of the batter to oiled small frying pan (8 inches) and make a thin crepe (#1) and set aside.
Add the pork belly to the larger frying pan (10 inches) on medium-low flame (#2). Place the shredded cabbage, scallion and tempura bits (#3) on top of the pork belly.  (The original instructions suggest putting more cabbage on top and drizzling the remaining batter on top of the new cabbage, which I forgot to do).
Cover the mound of cabbage with the crepe (#4), cook for 4-5 minutes. Place the noodles (#5) in the small frying pan with oil and cook for a few minutes, season and set aside. (The seasoning can be soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, or okonomi-yaki sauce but I used the seasoning that came with the noodle package). Then add the some oil and one egg, to the small frying pan. Break the yolk and spread it around with the egg white (#6). While the egg yolk is still runny place the noodles on top (#7). 

Slide the cabbage and crepe shown in #4 over the noodles and eggs shown in #7 using a spatula to form 4 layers; with the egg on the bottom covered with the noodles that are covered with the cabbage and topped with the crepe. 

Cook for about 1 minute. Place the now empty larger frying pan on the top of the small frying pan and flip the contents of the smaller pan into the larger pan. So the 4 layers are inverted with the egg layer now on top in the larger pan (#8). Cook 2 more minutes to make the crepe (which is now the bottom layer) slightly brown and crispy.

Easy-peesy, right? This is a pretty good okonomi-yaki but the bottom crepe was non-existent. We could have made the whole thing without okonomi-yaki batter crepe and never would have missed it. However, covering the cabbage with the crepe is important to steam/cook the cabbage under the crepe (#4). In addition, this is probably the style we ate in Japan which left us so under whelmed. It was good to try making this Hiroshima style but our recent liking of okonomi-yaki is probably based on our new found discovery of Osaka style.

Okonomi-yaki, Osaka-style Summary 大阪風お好み焼き総括

Here is a summary of the various “Osaka-style” okonomi-yaki we have experimented making recently. The picture shows an approximately 8 inch okonomi-yaki made with pork belly and all the toppings. I just wanted to post a summary of where we were able to get all the Japanese ingredients for an okonomi-yaki as well as the standard way to cook and top it.

Ingredients (basic or essential):
Cabbage キャベツ: Japanese or Taiwanese cabbage work best. Japanese cabbage is available from Suzuki Farm and Taiwanese from Weee. Compared to the American variety, the cabbage heads are flatter and not as round. We also think the leaves are more tender, sweeter and easier to separate than the american variety.

Scallion ねぎ: Chopped scallion either mixed into the batter, added as a topping or included both ways. 

Batter: There are two main ways to prepare the batter
Using either “Okonomiyaki” flour (#1 in the composite) or regular cake flour. The main difference is that the Okonomi-yaki flour already has kelp powder in it (which is one of the primary flavor elements, in addition to bonito, in Japanese dashi broth). So the batter can be made just using water instead of Japanese broth.  In addition because it does not include bonito, it is vegetarian. Cake flour can also be used as the base for the batter. While just plain water can be used as the moisture element in batter made with cake flour, it does not have any additional flavoring, either kelp or bonito, the resulting batter will not taste the same as one made with the Okonomi-yaki flour. So Japanese broth (made traditional style with kelp and bonito, or vegetarian style with kelp and dried shiitake mushroom) is generally used to achieve a similar flavor profile when using cake flour. The Okonomiyaki flour is available either from “Otafuku” US web site or “Weee”. Also vegetarian Japanese broth can be made with kelp and dried shiitake instead of bonito. In addition, (to make things even more complicated) both flour versions can also include grated “nagaimo” Japanese mountain yam which, while not adding additional flavoring, makes the texture more moist. (But I only used it in the cake flour version)

“Tenkasu” 天かす Tempura bits (#2). These bits can be either vegetarian or flavored with dried squid or shrimp.  Otafuku offers only vegetarian while Weee offers both. Although this can be omitted it is a standard ingredient. We like putting this on the pancake rather than mixing it in the batter because when you flip it, the tenkasu gets browned and crispy. Otherwise if you mix it in the batter, it sort of disappears

Toppings:(we got these toppings from Weee. Some are also available from Amazon)
1. Kizami shouga 刻み生姜. Julienne of pickled  ginger. This gives a nice ginger taste (#6)
2. Aonori 青海苔. Dried green laver. 
3. Katsuo-bushi flakes 鰹節 or kezuri-bush 削り節 which is thinly shaved fermented dried bonito and is the main ingredient of Japanese dashi broth. (Since it is made from dried fish, it is not used in the vegetarian version of okonomi-yaki).
4. Mayonnaise, specifically Japanese Kewpie mayonnaise (#5) which we got from Weee. Since we have never used Kewpie mayo, we were interested in how it compared to our standard American Hellman’s mayo. We found Kewpie mayo is smoother, slightly tangier and sweeter than Hellmann’s. Hellmann’s can be made to emulate Kewpie by adding rice vinegar and sugar. Conversely, we read, there is an American Kewpie, (which we have not tried). It is made differently from the Japanese variety. but was reported to taste like any other American mayo.

Sauce:
The mayo can be omitted but the okonomi-yaki sauces are a must. As far as we are concerned they make the dish. In general, regular okonomi-yaki sauce is available at Otafuku, Weee or any Japanese grocery store. However the Otafuku website also offers a spicy version (#4) in addition to the regular (#3) both of which are vegan. I also saw a “deluxe” version of the sauce at Otafuku which is not vegan and much more expensive. 

I suppose it is easy to make “regular” sauce into “spicy” sauce by adding your favorite hot sauce to the regular okonomi-yaki sauce.

Basic Directions to make okonomi-yaki

Directions for batter I made:
1) with water:
56g “Otafuku” okonomiyaki flour

92g water
1 egg

2) with Japanese broth and grated nagaimo:
50 grams cake flour 
40 grams Japanese broth (either vegetarian or traditional)
1 egg
40 grams grated Nagaimo 長芋 (which is available from Weee or a Japanese grocery store)

Directions for assembling the pancake:

1. Mix the batter, egg, cabbage, and scallion
2. Add the oil to an 8 inch frying pan on medium-low heat and pour in the batter to form a round disk about 2 cm by pressing the batter lightly with a spatula. 
3. Add the tempura bits and spread the pork belly on top if using. (#1 in the composite below)
4. Cook uncovered for 4 minutes
5. Flip and cook for 4 more minutes (you can either put on the lid or not as your preference.) We did not think the lid made much difference to the final product but most of the instructions include placing the lid (#2) in the composite below. We also found that when cooked with the lid on the pork belly was less crispy and more chewy. 
6. Flip the pancake again. The meat and tempura bits should be brown and crispy. (#3 in the composite below) Cook uncovered (if used the lid in the step 5) for 2-3 minutes
7. Remove the pancake to a plate or cutting board. Spread the mayo and sauce and top with the ginger, aonori, and bonito flakes (#4 in the composite below).

After making several version of okonomi-yaki, we learned;

1. Cake flour with graded nagaimo and broth (either vegetarian or bonito and kelp) vs. Okomoni-yaki flour mix (from Otafuku which is vegan containing just powdered kelp) did not make a big difference. Actually we may slightly prefer using the Otafuku flour mix which is also much easier to prepare. 

2. Rather than mixing tempura bits into the batter, it is better to layer them on the top. Otherwise, they totally disappear where as they become nicely crunchy when layered on the top.

3. We found whether or not a lid should be used after the first flipping is debatable.  Although, some recipes indicate placing the lid will make it more tender and fluffy, we found that it may also make the pork meat (if using) less crispy and more chewy. We did not see any significant difference in the okonomi-yaki itself.

4. Using Japanese Kewpie mayonnaise may be authentic but not essential

5. In terns of proteins, thinly sliced pork belly is the standard. We also tried substituting smoked bacon for the pork belly. (We call an okonomi-yaki made with smoked bacon “Bethesda Maryland style” which we like better than one made with pork belly). Seafood versions can be made with shrimp, scallops etc. A vegetarian version can be made with the addition of mushrooms such as shiitake, carrot etc and/or abura-age deep fried tofu as vegetarian simulation of the traditional pork belly

In any case, this dish is quite forgiving and you can make it with less or more ingredients once the base of the batter and shredded cabbage has been made. 

Pork Okonomi-yaki 豚バラお好み焼き

This is a probably the most standard version of Osaka-style okonomi-yaki which is made using pork belly. As you can see, after placing sauces and toppings on the pancake it is difficult to see which version of okomoni-yaki this is (although, it can’t be vegetarian since the toppings include bonito flakes). As usual, this is topped with mayo, okonomi-yaki sauce (we used Otafuku brand, both regular and spicy), pickled and julienned red ginger, aonori dried laver and finally bonito flakes. Actually, this is the third time we tried okonomi-yaki with pork belly. We were trying to find a way to make the pork crispy rather than chewy. This time, the result was the best. We’re really starting to like okonomi-yaki.

Ingredients: (makes one 8 inch pancake)
For batter
56g “Otafuku” okonomi-yaki flour (or you can just use cake flour)
92g water
1 egg

150g shredded cabbage
3 scallions, finely chopped
Tenkasu tempura bits
1/2 tbs vegetable oil (for cooking)

4 slices of thinly sliced pork belly (or smoked bacon; to make “Bethesda Maryland style” okonomi-yaki)

For toppings
Mayonnaise
Okonomi-yaki sauce (I used a mixture of regular and spicy sauces)
Julienned ginger in sweet vinegar or “Kizami ginger 刻み生姜”
Dried “aonori 青海苔” laver
Kezuribushi 削り節 bonito shavings

Directions:
Mix the flour, water, and egg, add the cabbage and scallion and mix. Add the oil in the frying pan on medium-low flame (400F using laser thermometer). Add the batter mixture into the frying pan and press into 2cm thick round. Top it with the tempura bits and thin slices of pork belly seasoned with salt and pepper (#1). Cook for 4 minutes. Flip it (#2). Put on the lid and cook for 4 minutes. Remove the lid and flip again (#3). Some of the tempura bits will get browned. Cook without a lid for another 3 minutes. Take it our to the cutting board or plate.

Smear the surface with the mayo (I added a small amount of sugar and rice vinegar to emulate Japanese Kewpie mayo) and sauce (#4). For toppings, scatter the ginger and aonori (#4). Finally add the bonito flakes (the first serving picture).

This version really worked. The pork came out more crispy than the previous pork versions of okonomi-yaki (which we did not blog about). The oil of the pork belly adds additional flavor to the pancake. (We found using the smoked bacon used for the Bethesda style okonomi-yaki came out more crispy than the pork belly. The bacon also added more rich meat flavor.)

Seafood Okonomi-yaki 海鮮お好み焼き

Although, as we mentioned in a previous blog, we had it several times in Japan and were not impressed, we are re-discovering “Okonomi-yaki お好み焼き” the Japanese style savory pancake. We are finding we like the ones we are making much better than the ones we had in Japan. “Okonomi” means “as you like” or “whatever you like”. “Yaki” means grill/fry. So the literal translation of Okonomi-yaki means “whatever you like fry”. As you would expect, given its name, this pancake is made with whatever you prefer or have on hand which is then added to the traditional cabbage and batter base. Since we had shredded Japanese cabbage (from Suzuki Farm), we decided to finish up the cabbage by making a okonomi-yaki for lunch one day. We decided to go with seafood as the protein topping. We had frozen shrimp and frozen bay scallops. This turned out to be really great okonomi-yaki. Both the shrimp and scallops were not over cooked and all the toppings including bonito flakes worked. We shared one okonomi-yaki between the two of us and it was quite a filling lunch.

Ingredients: (makes one 8 inch pancake)
For batter
56g “Otafuku” okonomi-yaki flour (or you can just use cake flour)
92g water
1 egg

150g shredded cabbage
3 scallions, finely chopped
Tenkasu tempura bits
1/2 tbs vegetable oil (for cooking)

For seafood (#1 in the composite picture)
3 medium shrimp, shelled and halved and cut into small portions
12 bay scallops

For toppings
Mayonnaise
Okonomi-yaki sauce (I used a mixture of regular and spicy sauces)
Julienned ginger in sweet vinegar or “Kizami ginger 刻み生姜”
Dried “aonori 青海苔” laver
Kezuribushi 削り節 bonito shavings

Directions:
Mix the flour, water, and egg, add the cabbage and scallion and mix. Add the seafood (I cut the shrimp into small chunks except for two halves which I placed on the top (#2). Add the oil to the frying pan on medium-low flame (400F using laser thermometer). Add the batter mixture into the frying pan and press into 2cm thick round. Top it with the tempura bits (#2). Cook for 4 minutes. Flip it (#3). Place on the lid and cook for 4 minutes (later we tried with the lid or without and decided no need for the lid). Remove the lid and flip again (#4). Some of the tempura bits get browned. Cook without lid for another 2 minutes.

Smear the surface with the mayo (I added small amount of sugar and rice vinegar to emulate the traditional Japanese Kwepie mayo used) and sauce (#5). Scatter the ginger and aonori (#6). Finally add the bonito flakes (the first serving picture).

We are really liking these okonomi-yaki. Although we never made one with American style cabbage, the Asian style cabbage we used is much more tender. So, we think it is probably closer to the cabbage traditionally used and probably works better than the American cabbage. The pancake is tender and with all the ingredients has a good range of flavors. The shrimp and scallops in this version added a tender slight sweetness. The toppings, especially the ginger and mixture of spicy and regular okonomi-yaki sauce are a must have.

Okonomi-yaki Vegetarian Version ベジタリアンお好み焼き

Okomoni-yaki お好み焼きis a type of a Japanese savory pancake. It is especially popular in the cities of western Japan such as Osaka 大阪 and Hiroshima 広島 where many restaurants specialize in okonomi-yaki. Many years ago we had okonomi-yaki for lunch when we visited Himeji castle 姫路城. We went to a  local  okonomi-yaki restaurant we happened to see on our way to the station. The okonomi-yaki we had there must have been “Hiroshima-style”. We don’t remember the details of the dish we ate but we were both seriously under-whelmed. So, we have not tried it since then even on subsequent visits to Japan.

Recently, we got together with some good friends, who had recently visited Japan. They mentioned that they really liked okonomi-yaki. The wife is a vegetarian and, apparently, she had vegetarian okonomi-yaki in Japan and really liked it.  When they got back home they tried to recreate their enjoyable Japanese experience. Her husband called around to various Japanese restaurants in the area and while okonomi-yaki was on the menu of several of them none of them offered “vegetarian” okonomi-yaki.  They were extremely disappointed. Seeing how disappointed they were, my wife suggested that even though we were not particularly wild about the okonomi-yaki we had in Japan, maybe, given our access to Japanese ingredients and our experience in using those ingredients, we could make a vegetarian okonomi-yaki for our friends. Since we have never made one before, we had to study and experiment with this a bit.

We learned that there are two basic styles; Osaka and Hiroshima-styles. In both, two essential ingredients are a batter made of dashi broth and flour and shredded cabbage. In the Osaka style, the ingredients are mixed into the batter and cooked like a pancake. Hiroshima-style makes a thin pancake and layers it with the cabbage, noodles, and fried eggs. To make this at home, Osaka-style is easier, so that’s what we decided to make.

In terms of getting the sauce and premixed flour for okonomi-yaki, “Otafuku” U.S. web site is the best place. The “Otafuku” Japanese web site has instructions (in Japanese) and videos on how to make either Hiroshima or Osaka-style okonomi-yaki at home. It appears most of the items such as vegetarian sauces, and tempura bits are available from the US Otafuku site. We got their okonomi-yaki kit (which included a vegetarian “Otafuku” pre-mixed flour and two vegetarian sauces; one the traditional sauce and one a spicy sauce) as well as a bag of vegetarian tempura bits. (Traditionally the tempura bits have dried squid or shrimp in them so it required some effort of make sure the tempura bits I got were vegetarian.)

As a test, we first made an okonomi-yaki in the non-vegetarian traditional style with thin strips of pork belly. Although the “Otafuku” pre-mixed flour I bought was vegetarian this was the first okonomi-yaki I ever made and I wanted to see how something made with the correct mixture of ingredients would turn out. The resulting okonomi-yaki was pretty good. So, I got adventurous and decided to make a vegetarian version from scratch using a recipe I found on the internet. I made the pancake batter with cake flour, grated nagaimo 長芋 (Japanese mountain yam) and homemade vegetarian broth. We topped this with mayo, spicy “otafuku” sauce, “aonori” 青のり dried laver, and “kizami shoga 刻み生姜” julienned pickled ginger. The “spicy” sauce was not too spicy but gradually the heat creeps up on you. Although, the pancake we made was the size usually served to one person, we divided the pancake between the two of us and it was more than enough. This was quite a decent okomomi-yaki. (Infinately better than the one we remembered). The difference between using the “Otafuku” pre-mixed flour vs homemade vegetarian batter was subtle but the homemade one was a bit more moist maybe due to the grated “nagaimo”.

Ingredients (makes one 7-8 inch pancake)
50 grams cake flour
40 grams vegetarian broth*
1 egg
40 grams grated Nagaimo 長芋
100 grams shredded cabbage (I basically eyeballed the amount)
4-5 fresh shiitake mushroom caps, thinly sliced
Abura-age 油揚げ, half (optional, I used it to suggest the flavor of pork meat in a vegetarian version)
finely chopped scallions (3-4 tbs but the amount is arbitrary)
1 tbs vegetable oil

Tenkasu 天かす tempura bits (3-4 tbs but the amount is arbitrary)

Topping
Mayonnaise (the authentic Japanese mayo is Kewpie)
Okonomi-yaki sauce (I used the ones I got from Otafuku; one regular and the other spicy, both are vegetarian)

Julienned ginger in sweet vinegar (Kizami-shouga 刻み生姜), store bought
Dried “Aomori 青のり” laver 

* I made this from kelp and dried shiitake mushrooms. Add dried kelp (3x2inch) and 3-4 small dried shiitake mushrooms to cold water and let hydrate for 30 minutes. Then place the pot on a low flame. When it starts boiling, turn off the heat and let it steep for 1-2 hours until the broth cools to room temperature. Remove the kelp and shiitake mushrooms.  

Directions:
Mix the flour, broth, and egg to make a batter, add the cabbage and mushroom and cook in an 8 inch non-stick flying pan with vegetable oil on medium low flame, Top with the tempura bits and, (if using) place the fried tofu on the top (#1 in the composite picture) and continue cooking for 3-4 minutes. and then flip the pancake (#2). Place the lid on the pan and continue cooking for 3 more minutes then flip it again (#3). Let it cook for 3 more minutes with the lid off . 

Smear on the mayo, scatter the ginger (#4). Smear on the sauces and sprinkle on the aonori. Serve hot (the first picture).

The two versions of okonomi-yaki we made (the non-vegetarian version is the subject for a separate post) were much better than what we remembered. The pickled ginger and a combination of the traditional and spicy sauce are a “must have” really making the entire enterprise. 

Fried “Renkon” Lotus Root with “Aonori” dried seaweed (laver) レンコンの磯辺揚げ

In the past, we could not get fresh “renkon レンコン” lotus root. We could only get packaged boiled renkon. Occasionally we got fresh renkon from our Japanese grocery store or Hmart (through Instacart). We are now getting fresh renkon any time we want from Weee.

Although renkon is called “lotus root” and written in the Japanese kanji ideogram “蓮根” meaning “lotus root”,  renkon is actually the “stem” not the root of the plant. I have posted quite a few renkon dishes in the past. When I receive fresh lotus root, I separate the segments, clean and dry the surface, wrap the individual segments in paper towel, vacuum pack, and refrigerate. With this preparation the renkon will last at least a few weeks or more. But sometimes I become complacent and let them sit in the refrigerator too long and the vacuum packed renkon goes bad. This time, I wanted to make sure I used up the renkon in time. So using the longest segment we got with this batch, I immediately made two renkon dishes, this is one of them. 

This is a variation of fried renkon chips made with onori 青海苔” called isobe-age*.  I got the inspiration for this dish from e-recipe website. I made a batter of cake flour, water and Japanese aonori. I shallow fried it and served it with kosher salt. This is a perfect small appetizer with the lovely salty briny smell and taste of aonori and the crunch of renkon.

* Aonori is dried seaweed also known as green laver.  When it is used in a dish the name of the dish includes the word “Isobe 磯部” (meaning “rocky beach”). This is because the briny smell of the aonori is reminiscent of the briny ocean smell characteristic of the rocky beach where it grows. So this dish I made is called “Isobe a-ge 磯辺揚げ” (or literally rocky beach fry).

This is not a recipe per se but a note to myself.

Ingredients:
3 inch long segment of fresh renkon, peeled and parboiled (for 3-4 minutes). This will prevent the renkon from breaking into fragments when sliced. 

Batter:
3 tbs. cake flour
1 tbs. dried “aonori” flakes
4 tbs. water (I used cold water from the refrigerator. The amount of water is just enough to make a pancake batter consistency).

Vegetable oil (enough to cover the frying pan bottom about 1/2 inch deep) for frying.

Directions:
Cut the renkon lengthwise in half, slice 1/4 inch thick crosswise to make half-moon shaped pieces.
Add the renkon slices to the batter to coat.
Add the oil to a frying pan on medium flame.
Make sure the oil is hot (test by dropping a small amount of batter into the oil. It should start sizzling immediately).
Add the renkon and fry for 4-5 minutes until slightly brown, turn it over and cook for a few more minutes.
Place the fried pieces on a paper towel lined plate and sprinkle on some salt.
Serve immediately.

These heat up well in the toaster oven—they actually got crisper. 

You can have variations of this dish. You can fry the renkon pieces as is for renkon chips, or dusted with flour, or regular tempura batter. By add a leavening agents (baking soda, baking powder) and/or beer instead of water to make the batter the fired renkon becomes a renkon fritter.

Julienned vegetable salad 刻み野菜サラダ

I got the idea for this salad of julienned vegetables from two separate sources. One was a segment on a food blog I follow about a tempura restaurant in the Ginza called “Ten-Asa 天あさ” which serves a julienned vegetable salad. The other was a YouTube episode by Chef Kasahara describing a similar salad. I am not sure how the salad dressing was made at Ten-Asa but from the description, it must contain  “shio-kombu 塩昆布” julienned “salted kelp”. In addition, this kelp was also used in Kasahara’s recipe.

Since I was planing to make “smelt fry ししゃものフライ” and “arancini”, I thought this type of salad, made without any oil in the dressing, would be a perfect salad accompaniment (#1). I think any vegetable can be used. Ten-Asa clearly included cabbage. I used what I had on hand which included carrot, cucumber and wood ear mushroom. Besides the salted kelp, I also used re-roasted and coarsely ground white sesame seeds for seasoning following chef Kasahara’s example. This turned out to be a very refreshing salad. We felt it was a healthy offset to the fried food we were eating .

Ingredients (for two servings) (see picture #2)
2 American mini cucumbers, “Katsura-muki 桂剥き” roll-cut making thin sheets and then finely julienned or using a mandolin with a julienne attachment.
2 scallions, white parts, cut lengthwise on one side (not through), opened like a book and then finely julienned called “shirakami-negi 白髪ネギ or white-hair scallion”*
4-5 fresh wood ear mushrooms, blanched and washed, cut into thin julienne (optional, I happened to have them on hand. They added a nice crunch)

(I am not sure if the two ingredients listed below would be considered seasoning or salad ingredients. They impart a very unique flavor and aroma)
4-5 green perilla “aojiso 青紫蘇” leaves, stacked, rolled and cut into thin julienne.
1 “Hojiso 穂紫蘇” flower and seed pods (optional**)

Dressing (seasoning)
2 tbs “shio-konbu 塩昆布” salted kelp
1 tbs coarsely ground white sesame

*This is easier if using a Tokyo “Negi” scallion which is much thicker than spring onion/scallion.
** This is the top of the plant in autum developing flower/seed pods. Our perilla started blooming so “hojiso” was available. But this is totally optional.

Directions:
Soak the julienned vegetables in ice water for a few hours and drain (#2). Let them dry on a paper towel. Just before serving, add the shio konbu and the sesame and toss. Taste and if not salty enough, add more shio-konbu or add “Konbu-cha 昆布茶” powder.

Besides the taste, the major factor of this salad is texture or “shokkan 食感”. For crunch, Chef kasahara suggested pickled young gobo or pickled “takuwan 沢庵” daikon.

Chickpea fries ひよこ豆フライ

My wife saw this recipe for chickpea fries in the Washington Post. She then realized she had bought chickpea flour some time ago, to make an Indian dish but she never made the dish. The flour had been sitting in the freezer for some time. So, she thought this would be a good way to use the chickpea flour. She figured, the most arduous  part of making this dish was that it had to be deep fried.  But, turns out that was not a problem for her since I am the one who does the deep frying in our kitchen. In any case, this was our collaborative effort. As with any fried starch, this was very good. The outside was light but crispy and the center was creamy. These are very similar in texture to the fries we make with nagaimo (but have not posted). We did not make a dipping sauce. We did not even need salt. 

Ingredients(We halved the recipe which made about 20 fries)
1 teaspoons olive oil, plus more for greasing the parchment
2 cups water
1 cups (120 grams) chickpea flour
1/2 teaspoon fine salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Directions
Cut two pieces of parchment paper to fit a 9-by-13-inch sheet pan or casserole dish. Use a little olive oil to lightly grease one side of each piece of parchment. Place one parchment piece on the bottom of the baking sheet (oil side up) and reserve the other.

In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the olive oil and water. Just before it starts to boil, slowly sprinkle in the chickpea flour while whisking to remove many (if not all) of the clumps and form a smooth batter. Whisk in the salt and pepper and reduce the heat to low. Switch to a wooden spoon and cook, stirring constantly, until the batter stiffens and starts to pull away from the sides and/or bottom of the pan, 10 minutes.

Scoop the batter onto the greased parchment in the pan and spread it out evenly as quickly as you can (it will start to firm up as it cools). Place the second piece of paper, greased side down, on the batter and gently press to smooth it out evenly. Transfer the pan to the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes, until it has cooled and set. (we kept it in the fridge for three days before frying).

When the batter has set, remove the top paper and use a butter knife to cut the chickpea block into 20 sticks.

In our Tempura pot, heat the cirsco oil until it reaches 350F (or 180C) on an instant-read thermometer. Working in batches to avoid overcrowding, gently add the chickpea sticks to the oil and cook, turning with tongs when needed, until golden on both sides, about 3 to 5 minutes per side. Using the tongs, transfer to the rack to drain.

These were very good—crunchy on the outside silky smooth on the inside with a very subtle grainy taste. Initially they were extremely greasy but over time the excess grease got absorbed and added to the outside crispiness. We subsequently read that instead of frying they should be sautéed in a frying pan with a small amount of oil which would significantly reduce the greasiness. These crisped up very nicely in the toaster oven. 

Sashimi Daikon Garnish 刺身の大根つま/けん

Sashimi is usually served with garnishes called  “Sashimi-no-Tsuma 刺身のつま”. The kanji ideogram assigned to the word “tsuma” can be “妻” meaning “wife” which has a somewhat sexist tone indicating shashimi is the main character or “husband” and the garnish supporting sashimi is characterized as the “wife” supporting her husband. The alternative meaning is  “褄”  “edge” specifically in reference to the edge of Japanese kimono clothes since these garnishes are often placed at the edge of the serving plate. The “tsuma” can be thinly julienned daikon, cucumber, carrot, daikon sprout (“kaiware daikon” 貝割れ大根) and other vegetable. Other items such as perilla leaves, lemon slices, “kasisou 海藻” sea plants, edible flowers such as dandelion are also common.

Besides being decorative, there are thought to be several purposes for these garnishes: 1) to refresh your mouth, 2) help keep the sushi fresh (preservative effect) (this is attributed especially to daikon), 3) draining excess moisture away from the sashimi so it isn’t sitting in exuded moisture. Daikon garnish is especially noted for this when it is placed underneath the sashimi. But in the end, I think, being decorative and traditional are the main reasons for why the “tsuma” sashimi garnish is used.  Although eating “tsuma” is not against the etiquette (which I often do but only a small portion of it), the vast majority of “tsuma” is untouched and discarded after serving its purpose much like parsley garnish in the west.  I have seen that, in some sushi bars in Japan, after the sashimi was served, the chef will make a small hand roll of these garnishes and serve it to the guests. Some sushi bars or Izakaya may not use garnish at all or  instead of the traditional garnishes, use other green leafy vegetables.

One evening, I served a small assorted  sashimi plate (picture #1) which included tuna chutoro 鮪の中トロ, scallop ホタテ, botan-ebi shrimp ボタン海老. I also serve tuna and avocado cubes 鮪とアボカドの角切り. All came from Riviera Sea Food Club. Later I fried up the shrimp heads as tempura 海老の頭の天ぷら.  All are good but the point of this post is the “tsuma” garnish. I added the “diakon-no-ken 大根のけん” and perilla leaves from our window sill planter.

Among the “tsuma” garnishes, thinly julienned items are called “ken 劍” which means “sword” apparently from its shape. To make this properly, after the skin is peeled, the inner part is peeled into paper thin layers called “Katsura-muki 桂むき” which produce a long, paper thin sheet of daikon. This is cut into manageable size, stacked and then julienned. Katsura-muki is one of the most difficult Japanese knife skills and it is beyond me. Other alternatives are special cutters. The cheaper one is essentially a spiral cutter which does not produce a true “ken”. The more expensive cutters indeed produce “katsura-muki” and quite good “ken” which is being used in many sushi bars and Japanese restaurants in the US (and probably even in Japan since these cutters are designed and produced in Japan including commercial motorized ones).

So, when I serve  sashimi, I do not add “daikon” garnish.  Recently, however, when I was browsing the new Izakaya cook book called “Rintaro”, I found a short passage indicating you could make authentic “Daikon-no-ken” by using a regular slicer. I tried it and it worked (picture #2).

The important idea is how to preserve the direction of the fibers within the daikon. Once I figured how this would work, I tried it. I first cut the daikon into 2 inch lengths, peeled the skin, and using the Benriner slicer (#1 in the composite picture) adjusting to produce fairly thin slices, made the slices cut along the length. By slicing this way, the direction of the fiber is same as in the “katsura-kuki” sheet. I then stacked them (#2 in composite picture) and julienned along the length (#3 in composite picture). This method produces a nice crunchy consistency because it does not cut across the fibers of the daikon. Soak the julienne in cold water (#4 in composite picture) and then drain before serving. Because both slicing and julienne are done with sharp blades, the surface is shiny and the results are really good if not perfect.(Picture #2).

I am sure this is a very minor thing but I feel better knowing I can do this without mastering the katsura-muki technique. By the way, my wife and I enjoyed all of the daikon garnish.  Since we had excess of the “daikon tsuma”, I made Japanese style salad next day. I added cucumber and carrot prepared like the daikon. I made a simple Japanese style dressing mixing sweet vinegar, soy sauce (x4 concentrated noodle sauce) and sesame oil (picture #3) and served with chicken sausage with sage and apple we got from a local gourmet grocery store. The salad was nice accompaniment to the sausage and very refreshing. 

Sushi Taro New Year Soba 手打ち蕎麦

When we got the Sushi Taro osechi box, we also got two orders of hand-made soba or “teuchi-soba 手打ち蕎麦” (Chef Kitayama is into making soba—which is our gain). As usual, we did not eat it on New year’s eve as “Toshikoshi Soba” 年越し蕎麦 or “Good luck going-over-the-year soba”. Instead, we had the soba as a lunch January 2 as our good luck new year soba. We have had this either cold or warm depending on the year. Since it was cold outside, this year we chose to have warm soba.

The soba kit included the dipping sauce, condiments (thinly sliced scallion and fried tempura batter or “age-dama/ten-kasu” 揚げ玉・天かす), wasabi, and cumquat in syrup. The wasabi is for cold soba with dipping sauce. So I preserved it for other occasions.

I first diluted the dipping sauce with the kelp-bonito broth I made for the new year “ozouni” soup to taste (about the same amount as the sauce), added fresh shiitake mushrooms (caps only), wood ear and oyster mushroom (since I had all these mushrooms) and heated it up and gently simmered while I was preparing  the soba. I also “borrowed” two slices of duck breast from the osechi box. I placed them in the warm soup for just 30 seconds before serving.

As per the instructions, I boiled the soba for 1 and half minutes, drained and washed gently in running cold water. I added the soup through the sieve in a pot on low flame so that the toppings would be separated (for better presentation). I added the cold washed soba into the soup and warmed it up for 30 seconds or so.

I placed the noodles and soup in the individual bowls, arranged the duck breast, mushrooms and garnished it with the age-dama and scallion. I served the cumquats as a side.

This was a very satisfying warm soba bowl. It is an upgraded version of “kake-soba” かけ蕎麦 or “tanuki-soba” たぬき蕎麦.

Smelt Fry シシャモフライ

Smelt and Capelin (shishamo ししゃも) are all similar small fish and often (including myself) used almost interchangeably. Rarely I see “smelt” in a U.S. grocery store with head off and gutted. In oriental grocery stores, the whole fish is sold with head, gut and roe intact. If the fish has roe, all-the-better. Weee carries frozen “smelt” (label said capelin from Canada). We tried them twice so far and they are pretty good. The only problem is that it is sold in a package of 600grams (1.3 lb) of fish frozen together. I usually manage to semi-thaw them and divide it up into three or four smaller portions (7-8 fish per pack), vacuum pack and re-freeze them. It turned out these frozen smelt/capelin are quite good, probably best for frying rather than grilling. Japanese style slightly dried Capelin may be the best for grilling.

As suggested above, two common ways of cooking are grilled or fried. Frying can be “kara-age”; fried dredged with flour/potato starch, or tempura and fry with breading. The night I cooked the capelin I was also making arancini, so I breaded the capelin and fried it. I also fried  seasoned quail eggs. In the picture, the left two objects are halved arancini, center two are capelin fry and the right round one (half buried under the capelin) is a quail egg. Some of the capelin had roe and tasted especially good. The arancini was made from left-over shiitake risotto with a center of meting Mozzarella cheese which by definition could not taste bad.

There is no recipe for the Capelin fry. Dredge in flour, place it in egg water and bread it with Panko bread crumb and deep fry in 180F oil for several minutes. We are glad to now have reliable source  of smelt/capelin.

Egg roll 春巻き

Although I posted a few egg rolls 春巻, none are traditional/classic. So, I tried to make something close to “classic”. After consulting several recipes, I came up with this one. The filling is mostly vegetables (cabbage, carrot, bamboo shoot, rice noodle, shiitake mushroom, and a small amount of pork that I had roasted (in Weber with some smoke). It came out ok but we decided we are more used to and probably prefer gyoza 餃子 and shumai 焼売. We had fried shrimp heads from when we took out sashimi and sushi from Tako Grill. We re-fried and served them with the egg rolls. Sweet and sour sauce must be the most common dipping sauce but I did not make any sauce and instead, served this with green tea salt. 

Since I did not measure the ingredients, this is not recipe but note to myself. The filling made a total of 14 egg rolls.

Ingredients:
3-4 leaves of cabbage, thick ribs removed and cut into small rectangles
1 small carrot, peeled, sliced and Julienned
Half of a package of boiled  bamboo shoot, sliced and julienned
Ginger, skinned and thinly julienned
2 caps of fresh shiitake mushroom (dried could be better but I did not have time to rehydrate them )
1/4 package of dried rice “harusame” 春雨 noodle, soaked in boiling water for 5 minutes, cut into bite sized pieces
1 tbs vegetable oil plus a splash of sesame oil
4-5 slices of roasted pork julienned (or uncooked julien or ground pork and shrimp)

Egg roll wrappers
Mixture of water and flour to make a slurry/glue (to fasten the ends of the egg roll wrapper)

Seasonings:
2 tsp oyster sauce
2 tbs Xiaoshing wine
2 tbs Soy sauce
2 tsp potato starch + water to make slurry
Salt and pepper
1 tsp sesame oil

Directions:
In a wok on medium-high flame, add the oil and sauté the ginger, vegetables and the pork. Season with the salt and pepper. When, the vegetables are cooked add the seasonings and mix. Add the starch slurry and splash in the sesame oil and mix.
Spread the filling on a metal cookie sheet to cool to room temperature and then refrigerate covered.
(I made the egg rolls several days after I made the filling)

Assembly:
Place the wrapper diagonally and place the filling near center but more toward the bottom, fold the bottom corner over the filling and then both sides and roll. Paint the flour/water mixture on the far conner of the wrapper and complete the roll (see picture below). (I made the rolls 1-2 hours prior to cooking. I covered  them and placed them in the refrigerator).

Instead of my regular “tempura” set up, I used a 10 inch frying pan for to  “fry” them.  Place the rolls with the end seam side down first and turn it over after the bottom is brown and continue cooking until the wrapper is all brown and crispy.

These were pretty good. The filling was adequately seasoned and the wrapper was crispy. Initially we thought there is too much wrapper as compared to the filling since we were more used to the proportions of gyoza. But over time the flavors melded together and actually tasted better. We discovered one egg roll made a nice lunch. Also they crisped up very nicely in the toaster oven.

Pumpkin “Kabocha” salad カボチャのサラダ

We regularly get Japanese/Asian groceries from Weee. This time we got a Japanese “Kabocha” かぼちゃ squash. It was larger than usual. I made my usual simmered kabocha and pottage かぼちゃの煮物とポタージュ but some still remained. I thought about tempura but that was too much work for such a small piece. So I decided to make this “kabocha salad”. I did not follow any particular recipe but sort of combined two different recipes. This is curry flavored and turned out to be quite good highlighting the natural sweetness of the kabocha.

This is just a note for myself.

Ingredients:
Kabocha squash, seeds removed, skin shaved off (optional), cut into half inch cubes
Raisins

For the dressing
Greek yogurt
Mayonnaise
Curry powder
Salt and pepper to taste

Directions:
Boil the kabocha in salted water for 5-7 minutes until cooked but not too mushy
Mix the ingredients for the dressing (about the same amount of mayo and yogurt, the amount of curry powder is to your liking)

For an impromptu salad, this was much better than I expected. The natural sweetness of the kabocha was complemented by the curry flavor. The mixture of the yogurt, mayo and kabocha made a nice creamy texture with some tartness. I will make this again.

P.S. Hawk joins us for Hanami 花見!
This year was a bit unusual for the cherry blossoms. The trees bloomed early and the blooms lasted for a long time. Since we have three trees with different bloom timing, we had a very long time to enjoy cherry blossoms or “Hanami”. One afternoon, a hawk joined us for Hanami! We looked out the window and there he was in all his magnificence sitting not ten feet from the window on the railing of the deck. We marveled at the image of such an awesome creature juxtaposed to the delicate loveliness of the cherry blossoms.

Tempura 天麩羅

I have posted quite a few tempura dishes. But I have  not made tempura for a long time. My wife wanted to have chicken kara-age 唐揚げ and I had marinated chicken thigh for “Kara-age” but I needed  to use new oil since I discarded the old reused peanut oil the last time I made a deep fried dish. Since fresh clean oil is best for making tempura, as my wife’s suggested, I made a few tempura items before frying the kara-age. I made, shrimp, shiitake and green beans tempura.

I am a bit out of practice making tempura and I made the batter a bit too thin but it came out OK. (Although not great especially for the shrimp.) I also re-fried the shrimp heads we got as part of take-out from Tako Grill. They came out very nice and crispy (better than heating them up in the toaster oven).

I served this small assortment of tempura with green tea salt and a wedge of lemon. After this, I cooked up the chicken kara-age. For dredging, I used half-and-half mixture of rice flour (“mochi-ko” 餅粉) and potato starch (“Katakuri-ko” 片栗粉) which was really good and produced more crunchy crust as compared to my usual potato starch.

New Year Soba 2022 新年そば 2022

When we get Sushi Taro Osechi すし太郎お節, we also order  "toshi-koshi soba" 年越しそば or “going-over-the-year soba” every year. This soba is definitely very special since it is hand-made and hand-cut (or “Teuchi-soba” 手打ちそば)  by Chef Kitayama. We remember when we had an omakase counter dinner some years ago before Covid, he discussed making soba with us. He showed us some soba dough which was too dry and talked about how he was planning on getting special “soba flour”  蕎麦粉 or buckwheat flour from Japan.  We really appreciate this New Year soba because it's quality reflects Chef Kitayama's dedication. This year, the soba came as a complete kit with the dipping sauce and all the garnishes. It also included more precise instructions, from the chef, on how to prepare and serve the soba including the final directive; “slurp”.

I am repeating myself but when I was growing up, my family never had a tradition of "toshikoshi soba" or eating soba on New Year’s eve.  Now, we also tend not to eat soba New Year eve but rather we enjoy the soba in the New Year. We hope, despite the delay in consumption,  the same effects of bringing good luck and long life will be in effect. We've sometimes had the Sushi Taro soba as a warm soba but this time following the chef's instructions, we had the soba cold with dipping sauce (The way I served is called “mori-soba” 盛り蕎麦. If you are interested in different ways of serving and the respective names for soba dishes, please refer to Wikipedia). Although we rarely have cold soba, I remembered that we have a special soba serving plate/basket called “Soba-seiro” 蕎麦せいろ and a soba dipping bowl called “soba-choko” 蕎麦猪口 (which I use to make chawan-mishi). So this is the "Mori soba" set I served as a lunch on the 2nd day of the New Year.

A good dashi smell was perversive as soon as I opened the dipping sauce container. It was a gentle and great dipping sauce.

The condiments included (from left to right) finely chopped scallion or "kizami negi" 刻みネギ, tempura bits, "tenkasu" 天かす or "agedama" 揚げ玉. I added thin strips of nori called "Kizami nori" 刻みのり.

Other condiments included (from left to right), grated daikon or "daikon oroshi" 大根おろしand wasabi わさび (as soon as I opened a small container, a nice wasabi aroma wafted out. It was clearly freshly grated real wasabi).

I also served Russian marinated salmon with ikura. This year, I added mustard in the marinade which gave it a nice but a bit different flavor.

The soba had nice aroma and nice bite to it. The dipping sauce was very gentle and perfect. Adding the wasabi gave very fresh but not spicy hot flavor. The tenkasu was still crunchy and flavorful. Perfect soba dish for the New Year's lunch.

Renkon "hasami-age" with avocado and cod roe アボカドとたらこのレンコンはさみ揚げ

My wife found an interesting YouTube series called "Kimono Mom".  A former geisha retired early got married, had a daughter, and now became a YouTuber showing Japanese cooking. She has many followers. In any case, we watched some of her episodes. One of the dishes she showed was "Hasami-age" はさみ揚げ meaning stuffing sandwiched between two slices of renkon 蓮根 (lotus root). The “sandwich” is then battered and deep fried. This is a common way of using renkon and I have previously posted such a dish.  The stuffing is usually meat especially chicken. Kimono Mom used a mixture of avocado and spicy cod roe called "mentaiko" 明太子. I happened to have a fresh renkon which I got from Tako Grill (besides packaed and frozen Japanese grocery items, Tako Grill grocery section now has some fresh Japanese vegetables and even sashimi blocks). I did not have "spicy" tarako but I did have frozen tarako. I could make tarako spicy by adding Sriracha. So I have everything to make this dish.

I also had fresh Japanese "shishi togarashi" 獅子唐辛子 pepper. So I just fried it as a side. I served the renkon dish with a wedge of lemon and green tea salt.

This is a rather unique and good dish. The renkon remains crispy and the avocado creamy with salty and lightly spicy (I did not add too much Sriracha) tarako flavors come through.

Ingredients: making 6.
One segment of fresh renkon, peeled and sliced (about 1/2 to 2/3 inch thick, I got a total of 12 slices).
6 perilla leaves
One sac of tarako, roe scraped out from the sac (#1)
One ripe avocado, stone and skin removed (#2)
Sriracha or other hot sauce to taste

For tempura batter
1/4 cup cake flour plus a bit more for dredging the renkon slices
1/4 cup carbonated water

Oil for deep frying

Directions:
Mash and mix the avocado, tarako with the sriracha hot sauce to taste (#3 and #4).
Lightly dredge the renkon slices. Put on a perilla leaf and then 1/6 (2-3 tsp) of the stuffing (#5).
Top the stack with another slice of renkon. Press lightly to secure (#6).

Heat the oil to 320F.

Mix the cake flour and cold carbonated water to make a relatively thin (like crepe batter) tempura batter.

Dip and coat the renkon “sandwich” and deep fry (#7) for fa ew minutes on one side. Turn it over and cook another few minutes then drain (#8) and serve.

I served this cut in half with a wedge of lemon and the green tea salt. We really like this dish. This could be good with beer but since we do not drink beer, we had it with cold sake.

Mint and pea kakiage ミントと豌豆のかき揚げ

Sometime ago, I saw this recipe in the web version of a Japanese newspaper. I thought mint and pea kakiage (a type of tempura made with several small food items) かき揚げ was very interesting and unique but was dragging my feet in actually making it. The mint crop is flourishing in our herb garden and my wife harvested some to make mint tea recently. She reserved some mint leaves for me to use for this kakiage (so I found myself fresh out of any excuses for not making it.) Finally, I made this dish one weekend evening. I served it with wedges of lemon and green tea salt.

I did not remember the details of the original recipe (and I could not find it any longer) but I used cake flour and carbonated water to make rather thin tempura batter and it came out very light and airy.

Ingredients (I did not precisely measure anything but it made four kaiage tempura).
About 1 cup of fresh mint leaves, washed and dried.
About 1/2 cup of peas (I used frozen petit peas, thawed).
Cake flour for dusting.
Peanut oil for frying.

For Tempura batter
About 1/2 cup cake flour
Cold carbonated water.

Directions:
Lightly dust the mint leaves and peas with the cake flour (#1 in the third picture)
Mix the cake flour and the carbonated water to make thin tempura batter and add the peas and mint leaves (#2)
Using a slotted spoon, I scooped up the mint and peas and slid the clump into the hot oil (350F) (#3)
Turning once, I fried them until crispy and slightly golden then drained them (#4)

We couldn’t taste much of the peas but this was very light, airy and crunchy with refreshing mint flavor. Perilla leaves, which are a bit similar to mint leaves, are a standard tempura item which I have used in several variations but mint leaves are certainly unique. Since we have a good supply of fresh mint leaves during the summer, we might try this in different combination...asparagus and mint immediately comes to mind.

Addendum
I made this dish again a few days later. I also found the original recipe and only thing I missed was adding potato starch (should equal 1/2 the amount of cake flour used). I also added fresh corn. I lowered the hot oil temperature to avoid browning. All worked better.

Matcha green tea tasting 抹茶の飲み比べ

Two years ago I made green tea and black bean cake  using the left-over "kuromame" 黒豆 black beans in syrup that came in the Sushi Taro osechi box. The recipe I used is in English in our blog. This year I commissioned my wife to take over making the green tea cake. Then, she pointed out that we were out of "matcha" 抹茶 green tea powder. I kept it in the freezer and mostly used it for cooking such as making "green tea salt" for tempura and apparently didn’t replace it after using it up. Since we are not physically going to our Japanese grocery store because of covid, I decided to get the green tea on line. Hibiki-an 響庵 is a company we have used in the past to get green tea and we could have gotten matcha from them but it is shipped directly from Japan and would have taken too long to get here. I then found "Matcha Kari" which imports its matcha stock from Japan but is located here so delivery time was much shorter.  I bought a mid-priced tea from them called "First harvest sipping matcha". (According to Mach-kari’s, Hibiki-an’s, and other websites which sell matcha, they offer several grades of matcha which appear to range from lowest quality/lowest price to highest quality/highest price, identified as “culinary”, “sipping”, “ceremonial” and “competition”.) (Disclaimer: I am not sure if there is official grading of matcha and if so what the grades would be). While we were waiting for this to arrive, I happened to see, while picking up a take-out at Tako Grill, that they had the matcha tea brand we used to get from our Japanese grocery store. This was very reasonably priced ($0.28 per gram, while the one from Matcha Kari was ＄1.17 per gram or over 4 times more expensive). I assume that the one from Tako Grill  was not as low-grade as “culinary” matcha  according to the lexicon I outlined but would be at the lower end of  “sipping“ grade. It also came from “Uji” 宇治 near Kyoto 京都. We have gotten regular Uji green tea (sencha 煎茶) from Hibiki-an in the past and it was pretty good. So as far as I was concerned this matcha (left in the picture below) was certainly good enough to make green tea cake. Then, a few days later we received the matcha from "matcha kari".

I have not made or tasted matcha for a long time but since we had two different kinds, we decided to have a tea tasting to see if we could taste a difference. I knew I had matcha bowls and a "chasen" 茶筅 (matcha frothing bamboo whisk) and a bamboo scoop or "chashaku" 茶杓.  The chasen and chashaku were easy to find but it took some search to find the matcha bowls. We have two; one that I brought with me for some reason when I first came to the U.S., and one that was given to us as a gift. Both are rather utilitarian  bowls but will do the job.

I made the two kinds of matcha, (the one from Tako Grill shown on the left and the one from Macha kari shown on the right) and taste tested.

For the sweet “chagashi” 茶菓子 accompanying the matcha I served the last of  the “kurt-kenton” 栗きんとん the mashed sweet potato with chestnuts from the Sushitaro osechi box and green plum I made simmered in syrup 小梅の甘露煮. It is customary to serve such a sweet with matcha to enhance the flavor of the tea. 

First of all, as a disclaimer, we have to acknowledge that we are not connoisseurs of matcha. Nonetheless after carefully sniffing and tasting both matcha we could state, with confidence, that despite quite a difference in price, we could not identify any difference in taste; none. The first thing that came to mind was the Japanese expression “Giving gold coins to a cat” or “neko ni koban 猫に小判” i.e. giving something of value where it can’t be appreciated. Well we did say we weren’t connoisseurs and this may just prove it. In the future, however, we will stick to the more reasonably priced macha.